Welcome to the forum and congrats on the truck, they are great vehicles. This thread has some good info on tire chains: Good Tire Chains

 

It comes down to intended use. Are you using on-road or off-road?

Have you used chains before?

These trucks do quite well in the snow in 4WD, especially with snowtires. There's alot to be said for proper tires for intended usage.

 

I use 3 peak rated tires and have never had the need for chains on my 4WD Fronty. You (the OP) didn’t say whether your truck is 4WD or not. If it’s 2WD then chains may b be needed depending on where you live but if 4WD you probably won’t need them depending on your tires.

 

The OP hasn't listed his / her location, but chains are required for driving in mountainous regions of many western states. Sometimes you just need to carry them with you. For example: Chain Controls / Chain Installation | Caltrans

 

What kind of driving do you need the chains for, specifically? The odd mountain climb when you get stuck? Driving a 100 miles on a snow packed road? There are different chains for different purposes. I only have 2 sets of cable chains for my truck, for the rare time I get stuck on an icy/snowy road or hill; even then, I have only used them twice in 13 years. I have one set of Cobra cables and another Peerless, they are both equal in quality in my opinion.

Example of cables (this will fit stock tire size): Security Chain Company ZT741 Super Z LT Light Truck and SUV Traction Chain, Set of 2, Snow Chains - Amazon Canada

 

Amazon.com: Security Chain Company SZ447 Super Z6 Cable Tire Chain for Passenger Cars, Pickups, and SUVs - Set of 2 : Automotive

Buy Security Chain Company SZ447 Super Z6 Cable Tire Chain for Passenger Cars, Pickups, and SUVs - Set of 2: Car - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

and they come off and on really easy and quick!!!

 

Great info from all. Thanks again from this truck newbie. Further info on the truck: It's a 2019 Pro-4X, 4WD and, as far as I can tell, has the original tires (I bought the truck used). I live near Boise, Idaho, so we do get snow, but in the Boise area - as opposed to other parts of the state - it's not that bad. I will occasionally be taking the Frontier up into the mountains, but always on well-paved roads.

 

I like tirechains.com. Of course all made in china. Running a set of vbar heavy chains on the rear right now. Have “s” class diamond chains for the front. Think I could get vbars on the front if needed. Thats on a SV, you have less clearance. Too bad you’re not closer, have 2 sets of diamond S chains from my Xterra Off Road that would fit your truck.
The diamond s chains are quieter, but can slide on ice. The vbars are aggressive.

@jimsturiale Just to clarify, the Pro-4X model comes standard with 265/75/R16 (32" diameter) tires, and the SV model comes standard with 265/70/R16 (31" diameter) tires. Smaller tire diameter = more clearance in the wheel wells for chains. My 2019 Pro-4X owner's manual states that only S-class (low profile) chains should be used, and that they should be used on the rear wheels only. My truck has the larger (265/75/R16) tires. That said, in the thread that I linked to in my earlier post above, another member mentioned that he has been using diamond-style S-class chains on all four tires (265/75/R16) without issue. My guess is that ladder-style chains will not work out so well for the larger tire diameter, as they usually have a sloppier fit and will likely hit the wheel well.

Based on your description of your use case, I'd say you have two viable options:
1) Cables (as @Zedbra and @RobFrisco415 mentioned)
2) Diamond-style S-class chains

Each has its pros and cons. Cables are lighter weight, easier to mount/dismount, pack down small for easy storage, provide a smoother ride, and will likely get you through most situations. Diamond-style chains are thicker and heavier-duty than cables, but also weigh more, are slightly more challenging to mount/dismount, take up more storage space, and I imagine provide a bumpier ride (unless driving through really deep snow).

The other consideration, as others have mentioned, is that a good set of A/T or snow tires goes a long way when it comes to winter driving - particularly when combined with 4x4. Point being that it makes sense to do an honest evaluation of whether it's worth spending the extra money on cables or chains.

As a disclaimer, I'm providing my opinion here without having used cables or diamond-style chains (I used ladder chains on a different vehicle years ago). I have been doing a lot of research on this topic, however, as I'm in the market for one of these two solutions myself. Best of luck with whichever way you decide to go.

 

I like tirechains.com. Of course all made in china. Running a set of vbar heavy chains on the rear right now. Have “s” class diamond chains for the front. Think I could get vbars on the front if needed. Thats on a SV, you have less clearance. Too bad you’re not closer, have 2 sets of diamond S chains from my Xterra Off Road that would fit your truck.
The diamond s chains are quieter, but can slide on ice. The vbars are aggressive.

 

I was about to write a bunch of dribble on tire chains but realized @BlueOx was kind enough to find something I wrote in the past.

In truth if you are just carrying a set of chains for the "just in case" (such as R3 chain control or glazed ice off roading) any chains will do: either diamond pattern or ladder. DO NOT however get cable "chains", they just flat out suck. In fact last week I just drove past a truck in the ditch with these cables. Some notoriously icy roadway sections around here do not allow cables to pass for chains. In deep snow they are OK but on ice they will just spin. The cable cross links are covered with a series of small steel rollers. Their intended purpose is to 1-increase the diameter of the cross links as the cables are very thin and would provide little paddling resistance in the snow. 2-if the cables were to catch on a piece of course asphalt aggregate it will likely snap at the end swaged connection. On hard packed ice, the rollers just roll.

About a month ago we were out cutting our Christmas tree. Turns out all the flat landers were up here cutting that weekend too. It had been cold and no new snow for weeks. The snow that was on the ground was slicked ice. You should have seen the number of bro-dozers sideways on the trails (dirt roads). Mudders and 3 peak snow flaked AT tires were NOT cutting it. When we had to back down a trail due to one of these sideways tards, my father in-law almost slide off the road as he was sliding backwards on the ice. He had some Falken's AT with the 3PMS rating. Myself and other locals (in their subarus) with true winter snow tires (I run Blizzak DM-V2) were all driving around like it was dry pavement. This would have been a good situation to have a set of tire chains.

I have recently acquired a VW Eurovan for our winter Ski Rig. As ski lodges are closed, this has become our parking lot Ski lodge on wheels. The van however is FWD. I put on a set of Goodyear Winter Command Ultras. Though I have a set of chains for it, I have yet to have to use it. Those sticky tires have been unstoppable. Here is the road to and from the ski resort. It gains about 1150 feet in 3.3 miles. So far this season I have seen 3 cars crashed on the road as a result of snow/ice, all occurring on the downhill slope; can't stop can't turn.

My final bit of advice is to buy chains used. If you look on ebay or craigslist you will find a TON of listings, many un-used. There is very little demand for used chains. People buy them, keep them in their trunk for the "just in case" times and never actually use them; selling them when they sell the vehicle. Very common to pick up a set of new diamond patterned chains for about $20 when they sell new for $80+.

 

I was about to write a bunch of dribble on tire chains but realized @BlueOx was kind enough to find something I wrote in the past.

In truth if you are just carrying a set of chains for the "just in case" (such as R3 chain control or glazed ice off roading) any chains will do: either diamond pattern or ladder. DO NOT however get cable "chains", they just flat out suck. In fact last week I just drove past a truck in the ditch with these cables. Some notoriously icy roadway sections around here do not allow cables to pass for chains. In deep snow they are OK but on ice they will just spin. The cable cross links are covered with a series of small steel rollers. Their intended purpose is to 1-increase the diameter of the cross links as the cables are very thin and would provide little paddling resistance in the snow. 2-if the cables were to catch on a piece of course asphalt aggregate it will likely snap at the end swaged connection.

About a month ago we were out cutting our Christmas tree. Turns out all the flat landers were up here cutting that weekend too. It had been cold and no new snow for weeks. The snow that was on the ground was slicked ice. You should have seen the number of bro-dozers sideways on the trails (dirt roads). Mudders and 3 peak snow flaked AT tires were NOT cutting it. When we had to back down a trail due to one of these sideways tards, my father in-law almost slide off the road as he was sliding backwards on the ice. He had some Falken's AT with the 3PMS rating. Myself and other locals (in their subarus) with true winter snow tires (I run Blizzak DM-V2) were all driving around like it was dry pavement. This would have been a good situation to have a set of tire chains.

I have recently acquired a VW Eurovan for our winter Ski Rig. As ski lodges are closed, this has become our parking lot Ski lodge on wheels. The van however is FWD. I put on a set of Goodyear Winter Command Ultras. Though I have a set of chains for it, I have yet to have to use it. Those sticky tires have been unstoppable. Here is the road to and from the ski resort. It gains about 1150 feet in 3.3 miles. So far this season I have seen 3 cars crashed on the road as a result of snow/ice, all occurring on the downhill slope; can't stop can't turn.
View attachment 325648 View attachment 325649

My final bit of advice is to buy chains used. If you look on ebay or craigslist you will find a TON of listings, many un-used. There is very little demand for used chains. People buy them, keep them in their trunk for the "just in case" times and never actually use them; selling them when they sell the vehicle. Very common to pick up a set of new diamond patterned chains for about $20 when they sell new for $80+.

Good to know about the cables not performing on ice. That is one of my primary use cases, so it makes my decision easy. Thank you!

Couldn't agree more regarding snow tires vs. A/T or M/T tires. It's all about the softer rubber compound when it comes to those kinds of conditions.

 

It seems like a frontier 4wd with blizzaks or any other true winter tire (not just 3 pms) would be pretty much unstoppable in ice or snow. To me it would be easier to get a set of steel wheels with winter tire mounted and swap them on for winter instead of chains. But I realize some areas require you have them

 

Seems like you haven't driven in real winter weather. You get the best winter tires, and then the chains in addition for when you need them.

 

I live in Tahoe. This is what sits in the bed of my Pro4X all winter: TC2326 - Titan Chain Alloy Snow Tire Chains - Diamond Pattern - Square Link - https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Tc2326. I have two sets and I have used them on all 4 tires. No issues with clearance. For snow/ice roads they do pretty well and they are not bad to install. I also have the spider bungie tensioners. They are nice for keeping the chains tight.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

FYI, Nissan states in the owners manual to use only SAE class "S" tires chains and they must be mounted only on the rear wheels and not on the front wheels. It's stated in the "Do-it-yourself" section of the manual.

 

Plenty of room in the front for s class, at least on a sv. And as I said before ran s class on all four corners of my off road xterra for years.
As for snow tires being “unstoppable”, nothing is going thru 15” of heavy wet snow without chains, dry fluffy yes. Snow tires are great, but deep wet snow is horrible, and smooth ice with a 10% grade chains are the only option.
And if you get ladder style get the ones with 4 cam tighteners.

 

Took a shot of my chains.

plenty of rear clearance, much more than my Xterra off road had with the bigger tires. We’re about 3 miles from the hard road, up a eroded mountain road. Don’t come up in winter without chains and a chainsaw. Calling for freezing rain tomorrow, then snow. Nice to be retired with a full woodshed and pantry.

this is a big issue with ice storms. Glad my new stove will burn hemlock

 

Took a shot of my chains.
View attachment 325663

View attachment 325664
plenty of rear clearance, much more than my Xterra off road had with the bigger tires. We’re about 3 miles from the hard road, up a eroded mountain road. Don’t come up in winter without chains and a chainsaw. Calling for freezing rain tomorrow, then snow. Nice to be retired with a full woodshed and pantry.

this is a big issue with ice storms. Glad my new stove will burn hemlock

V-bar cam locks. Those are about as good as them come. High traction, lower speed. With the cam lock tensioners you shouldn't need the rubber tensioners. In the top picture one of your cams is not engaged.

 

Dude thats not the hill, that’s the road at the top of the mountain. Your fwd car wouldn’t make it 10 yds up the first grade 2 miles below.

 

Is this your driveway or just an area you like to drive your truck? I’m an essential helsrj care worker and I gotta get to work there is no way in hell I’d live 2 miles on a hill in region that gets a lot of snow. I’m talking about normal day to day stuff a fwd car can tackle some serious **** if you know what your doing. But no if it’s 2 miles up hill on ice a fwd may not do it, but with blizzacks you may be surprised- ever tried it ?