[cps]

Engine Compartment and Old Hose Picture

Engine bay with everything removed

A mess of old hoses and parts!

All that's left is to fill up the radiator with 50/50 antifreeze, park the truck safely on an incline with the radiator facing up (radiator must be higher than the engine and the heater core hoses on the back fire wall), remove radiator cap, start engine with heater on, and let idle while you add antifreeze as the air bubble escape. Go drive it, check for any leaks (shouldn't be), repeat above if necessary. Make sure you check the antifreeze level in the overflow tank!

 

[cps]

End!!!

Please feel free to add or comment on this thread!

CPS

 

[Johnny M.]

Awesome thread. I hope it's still available for me when I do the hose replacement on my 2014 4.0l

Sent from my S3

 

[cps]

I'm officially DONE!!!

Please start from the beginning of this thread as I have know completed all of the text along with the pictures and part numbers!

Enjoy!

CPS

 

[AndysLog]

Holy piss. How much money did you spend on OEM hoses.
Neat project though.

 

[cstone]

Impressive write up man. Do you plan to add the part numbers for all the hoses?

 

[cps]

Impressive write up man. Do you plan to add the part numbers for all the hoses?

I just went back through and added all the part numbers above each picture.

Double click the picture, it will open it up bigger. I took all of those pictures with my iPhone 4, so I hope the pictures are clear enough.

With research (all part numbers I looked up on my own), labor, thread creation......17 hours to complete! It was fun....hehe

CPS

 

[cps]

Holy piss. How much money did you spend on OEM hoses.
Neat project though.

I knew this question was coming!

Well, there is a lot of other parts in the mix too: thermostat and gasket, thermal fan clutch, PCV valve, EVAP service port, brake booster check valve, radiator cap, reservoir cap, antifreeze.

NOT TO MENTION, the serpentine belt tensioner bearing was shot and the idler pulley was squealing. Found this out when I removed the belt! Yea, more money! Those parts along with a new belt will be here Wednesday.

$395 for hose, clamps, antifreeze, and such
$130 for new fan clutch
$80 for new belt tensioner, belt, idler pulley (Gates Brand on Amazon.com)

Total $605

 

[Zedbra]

With research (all part numbers I looked up on my own), labor, thread creation......17 hours to complete! It was fun....

I've never seen anyone include their thread creation bravado in the time to complete a DIY. :laugh:

 

[cps]

I've never seen anyone include their thread creation bravado in the time to complete a DIY. :laugh:

I was just being silly, it just took longer than normal because I had to take pictures of everything before I removed the parts, so it takes up time. Hehe

If I didn't take the pictures, the research and install would have taken me 13 hours. Research alone was about 4 hours.

CPS

 

[cps]

I haven't had a truck payment in 5 years, so spending the $605 in preventative maintenance was worth it to me. Plus, I got to have fun and do this DIY thread to help everyone out. Hopefully this thread is useful, and will help everyone identify old part locations and the proper Nissan parts numbers they associate with.

All part numbers have been added to all of the pictures, they are also included in the pictures themselves.

CPS

 

[cstone]

I just went back through and added all the part numbers above each picture.

Double click the picture, it will open it up bigger. I took all of those pictures with my iPhone 4, so I hope the pictures are clear enough.

With research (all part numbers I looked up on my own), labor, thread creation......17 hours to complete! It was fun....hehe

CPS

Yeah the pictures look good. I didn't even think of just looking at the pictures for the part numbers (there's my special moment of the day). With them above the pics I think it is a lot more user friendly though and it should reduce the number of posts you get months or years down the road asking "what's the part number for x part?". I think this will definitely be helpful for anyone needing to replace some hose

I nominate this to be stickied or at least added to the DIY Projects Stickies thread. :thumbup:

 

[HeavyG]

Thanks for doing such a detailed, well documented write up for this!!:excellent:

 

[cps]

No problem at all! I get a lot of good information from Club Frontier, so the least I can do is help out others!

I'm glad everyone likes it. It was a lot of busted knuckles, and a few choice words, but I got it done!

CPS

 

[cps]

Update!

So, I finally got all of the air pockets out of the coolant system over the course of 3 days.

Results:

-The engine temperature on the gauge reads right below the half way mark (which is right for highway driving at 75 miles an hour).

-None of my hose connections leak! Not that I would expect them too.

-The slight miss at idle is gone, this was the reason I started this hose project. I had 3 dried out and cracked vacuum hoses.

-Engine runs like new again.

-Installed the new Gates serpentine belt tensioner, Gates belt, and Gates idler pulley on Wednesday. No whining, grinding, or squealing anymore!

My truck should last another 100,000 miles, or at least until my diesel powered Frontier is delivered to my home! Hehe

CPS

 

[pt1e]

Did you do the tubes for the washer fluid?

 

[cps]

Did you do the tubes for the washer fluid?

Nope, didn't even cross my mind! I guess I could do those too, and just add it to this tread....

CPS

 

[pt1e]

Or the drain hose for the overflow tank....I was very surprised how short that was...I'd want it much closer to the ground.....good to see it worked it great...... and running like a top

 

[pt1e]

Did you notice any other improvements? Did you have any plastic bits break? That plastic had to be brittle

 

[cps]

Did you notice any other improvements? Did you have any plastic bits break? That plastic had to be brittle

Actually, none of the plastic pieces broke at all (I did take my time too)! The only issue that I encountered was, the bolt that was holding on the serpentine belt tensioner, was seized to the aluminum mounting bracket (this bracket is removable, so no worries). So, when I removed the steel bolt, all the aluminum threads came out with the bolt. So, I cleaned up the aluminum shavings from the bolt, removed the bracket, put new tensioner on bracket, ran the bolt back through tensioner and through bracket (the bolt sticks out the other side of the removable bracket 3/4"), and put a lock nut back there, torqued it down, reinstalled bracket/tensioner assembly back to motor, and fixed!

Everything is running in tip top shape now!

CPS