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What did you do to your 3rd Gen Frontier today?

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#2,121 ·
Ruddigger said:
After I get it aligned I’ll take it up to the mountains and get some more pics. Btw, my measurement from floor to fender flare is is 37” front and 38” rear. Is that similar to yours?
Click to expand...
36.25" front - 37.5" rear - Mine was 37.75" rear but I carried an 800lb load around for a week to get it "settle" and I think the rear is now somewhere right at 37.5". I'd add the spacer but when carrying a load, the rear sags to 35-36" and I need my truck to be as useful as possible. I look forward to seeing pics!
 
#2,123 ·
#2,124 ·
No_Tacos said:
Looks very good, especially the low profile. Does this model have the quick release to remove the tarp? The lo pro apparently does not. I would like option of going from bed cover to none in seconds...
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No. There is no quick release to remove it. There are two latches in the front that allow it to be removed, so that might work. The rails would still be there.
 
#2,128 ·
I crawled under to try and locate the “signal” wire/connection to the alternator. Spent about 1/2 hour and gave up. I did find the positive (red boot) connection and negative connection from the top, but no luck yet locating that signal wire for the VVCS.
Yes, I’m aware of the grey plug off the negative terminal. This investigation was to see about disconnecting the “not so” smart signal directly from the alternator to see what the voltage results would be vs. the grey plug version??
 
#2,130 ·
No_Tacos said:
That's what I meant, quick release for the cover while the rails remain on the truck.
Click to expand...
Yup. It has that method

  • Quick-Release System - The entire cover can be removed in seconds, without tools, providing true, 100% full bed access.
"To remove the cover from the side rails, push up on the retainer tab and then slide the header guide away from the side rail. Do this on both the driver and passenger side. Carefully lift the cover off the side rails. "

I think the only thing I don't care for is where the rails appear to be into the bed space in order to get that flush look.
 
#2,132 ·
Well I WAS going to apply some tracwrap (XPEL TW4T20) but the wrong product arrived. So I spot applied some cleaner wax instead. lol. Cleaned the windows, filled the washer jug. meh.
 
#2,133 ·
GreyFox said:
I did find the positive (red boot) connection and negative connection from the top, but no luck yet locating that signal wire for the VVCS.
Click to expand...
I would think the ground path for the alternator would be through the case, the bracket, the block, & the ground strap to the frame. I wouldn’t think it would ground through a wire. Am I wrong?
 
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#2,134 ·
GreyFox said:
I did find the positive (red boot) connection and negative connection from the top, but no luck yet locating that signal wire for the VVCS.
Click to expand...
I would think the ground path for the alternator would be through the case, the bracket, the block, & the ground strap to the frame. I wouldn’t think it would ground through a wire. Am I wrong?
 
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#2,135 ·
JVRaley said:
I would think the ground path for the alternator would be through the case, the bracket, the block, & the ground strap to the frame. I wouldn’t think it would ground through a wire. Am I wrong?
Click to expand...
The negative batter terminal has about a 6-8" line that goes down to another "bracket" that is mounted to an alternator mounting stud. From there you will see the domed red boot that covers the positive connection to the alternator. I'm a short guy, so even with a step stool looking over the motor I couldn't tell where the signal wire is connecting to the alternator. I tried looking underneath, but it was still to cold by me and I only removed the silver skid plate. Next oil change I will remove the entire black plate/cover underneath to get a better view from underneath. That signal wire has to be there...just need to locate it.
 
#2,136 ·
GreyFox said:
The negative batter terminal has about a 6-8" line that goes down to another "bracket" that is mounted to an alternator mounting stud. From there you will see the domed red boot that covers the positive connection to the alternator. I'm a short guy, so even with a step stool looking over the motor I couldn't tell where the signal wire is connecting to the alternator. I tried looking underneath, but it was still to cold by me and I only removed the silver skid plate. Next oil change I will remove the entire black plate/cover underneath to get a better view from underneath. That signal wire has to be there...just need to locate it.
Click to expand...
I gotcha. I’ll look around too when I get a chance.
 
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#2,138 · (Edited)
SuperSprings "Sumo" blue
www.superspringsinternational.com

SSR-628-40 | SumoSprings Rear Suspension

SSR-628-47 SumoSprings are a better journey for the Nissan Frontier. They're maintenance-free, reduce sag, and increase load support.
www.superspringsinternational.com www.superspringsinternational.com

www.clubfrontier.org

Sumo Springs

I got a set of Sumo Springs for my 22' SV. Easiest vehicle mod I've ever done and it really settled the rear end down when towing something with a decent tongue weight.
www.clubfrontier.org www.clubfrontier.org

Image

Image

Image
 
#2,140 ·
No_Tacos said:
No disrespect but I can't help but notice that you often post pics without any description or context. Might be helpful if you describe what you did in addition to the pics, what brand you used etc.
Just saying..
Click to expand...
What do you mean? It’s clear as day, he replaced an old brown buttplug with a shiny new blue one.

I think.
 
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