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Great ! And thanks for supplying the hose part numbers, saving those in case I ever need for my '98 or 2004.
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Make sure that you use quality hose clamps, not the stock junk that's on there. If you're doing the bypass hose, you really should replace the heater hoses as well. Be VERY careful as the inlets to the cabin are brittle plastic nipples...
I used Ideal hose clamps.
 
I use made-in-USA hose clamps.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
I've had to redo a coolant bypass hose once when I reused the stock hose clamps. They just don't provide enough surface area to make a good seal and if they do, then they will leak in the future when the hose hardens.
My bypass hoses actually got very soft. Could've been due to a power steering fluid leak that has since been repaired.
 
Well the the leak was coming from the "U" shaped hose. I replaced the four hoses that are pictured in my original post. And did so without removing the intake manifold.
Unbolting the power steering pump and removing the mounting bracket and plate allowed just enough access to swap the bypass hoses.
Unfortunately, the heater inlet hose replacement will have to wait until it becomes a necessity. It connects to the back side of the engine block and it seems that the intake has to be removed to access. I tried getting to it from underneath but space was too tight.
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Did you get the inlet heater hose replaced? If so, did you have to remove the intake manifold to replace it? This one seems like a real challenge and I am trying to do this one on my 2002 Frontier XE KA24DE 4 Cylinder.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Did you get the inlet heater hose replaced? If so, did you have to remove the intake manifold to replace it? This one seems like a real challenge and I am trying to do this one on my 2002 Frontier XE KA24DE 4 Cylinder.
Negative. I still have the new hose collecting dust.
I am waiting til the hose fails. I couldn't get to it no matter how I tried. Seems removing the intake would be the only way. But I did only try for about 5 minutes.
 
Thanks. I will so some research. I bet someone has figured out how to install something as basic as a heater hose without removing the intake manifold. Sees crazy, not to mention the poor person who loses this hose on the road and is informed by a garage that it will cost hundreds of dollars to change a twenty dollar heater hose.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Thanks. I will so some research. I bet someone has figured out how to install something as basic as a heater hose without removing the intake manifold. Sees crazy, not to mention the poor person who loses this hose on the road and is informed by a garage that it will cost hundreds of dollars to change a twenty dollar heater hose.
Reminds me of when I thought I'd swap out the pcv valve in 30-45 seconds.
 
Yep the PCV was a challenge. Going through the drivers side wheel well was a bear and I had to use two sets of extra long angled head needle nose pliers to get enough pressure on it for it to seat. I think there may an equally creative way to get the heater hose changed. BTW, if you have not replaced the starter yet, I cut an access panel in the drivers side wheel well to get to it.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Yep the PCV was a challenge. Going through the drivers side wheel well was a bear and I had to use two sets of extra long angled head needle nose pliers to get enough pressure on it for it to seat. I think there may an equally creative way to get the heater hose changed. BTW, if you have not replaced the starter yet, I cut an access panel in the drivers side wheel well to get to it.
Got any pics of that access panel?

Man, I replaced my fuel pump back in Oct 2020 using the method I learned of from your bed tilt thread, then again about a month ago (warranty) and a third time 2 weeks ago(warranty). It had me considering cutting a fuel pump access panel in the bed.
 
BTW, if you have not replaced the starter yet, I cut an access panel in the drivers side wheel well to get to it.
Hmmm - I replaced the starter in my 1998 4-cylinder 5-speed back in about 2005, and had no "access panel". I seem to remember pulling it out through the passenger side wheel well after removing the plastic mud cover.

I also removed the starter for a clutch replacement. I remember 14mm ratcheting box wrench was my friend.
 
Did you get the inlet heater hose replaced? If so, did you have to remove the intake manifold to replace it? This one seems like a real challenge and I am trying to do this one on my 2002 Frontier XE KA24DE 4 Cylinder.
I was able to replace all of the heater and coolant hoses. Not fun, but I had to lay over the engine and reach around the intake manifold. If you plan on ever replacing the PCV, be warned that the rubber line on it will break and is NLA from Nissan.
 
I was able to replace all of the heater and coolant hoses. Not fun, but I had to lay over the engine and reach around the intake manifold. If you plan on ever replacing the PCV, be warned that the rubber line on it will break and is NLA from Nissan.
I have replaced the radiator hoses on my 1998 (262K miles) but no other coolant hoses or its PCV hose. My 2004 (106K) still has all its factory hoses except for the lower radiator hose.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Hmmm - I replaced the starter in my 1998 4-cylinder 5-speed back in about 2005, and had no "access panel". I seem to remember pulling it out through the passenger side wheel well after removing the plastic mud cover.

I also removed the starter for a clutch replacement. I remember 14mm ratcheting box wrench was my friend.
The dyslexia must've kicked in because his thread about his starter swap says passenger side.
 
Got any pics of that access panel?

Man, I replaced my fuel pump back in Oct 2020 using the method I learned of from your bed tilt thread, then again about a month ago (warranty) and a third time 2 weeks ago(warranty). It had me considering cutting a fuel pump access panel in the bed.
Here is the panel I cut in the wheel well to access the starter. It is just two vertical cuts with a dremel and just folded the thin metal up and out of the way to access the starter. Then, just folded it down back into place. I placed the rubber dam over the cut area. If you use the right saw you can perhaps cut an access panel in the bed of the truck. I replaced my fuel pump with a Spectra housing including the pump and sending unit for $120 and I have had no issues with the pump.
 

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One note of caution on removing the inlet heater hose that the pipe (top) leading into the heater core on the KA24DE 4 cylinder is plastic and is known to deteriorate over time. I would remove the heater hose as it connects to the nipple at the firewall by cutting it with a razor and gently "unwrapping" it. You may want to add some slight heat to the hose to soften it a bit.
 
I'm about to start wrenching on my KA24DE to repair a small coolant leak under the intake manifold.
In the pic are the 4 new hoses that I'm going to install and I also have a new intake manifold gasket.
Anyone know if there are any other parts that I'll be needing to complete this repair?
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This picture shows the heater hose which is attached to the rear lower engine block with the arrow pointing to it. If I remove the flat bracket next to the EGR (pictured) it will give me room to reach the heater hose, but the small bracket (or whatever it is) which I circled in yellow is in the way. Does anyone know what this part is or how it may be removed?
 

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