Yes, there are tools made for it. You can also use a c clamp if you have one big enough.

 

they have tons of overpriced tools for this.. i have always used a c clamp and one of the old pads so I don't mar anything up

 

^^ Yupper, this one. If you already have the CClamp, 100% free. What I've done for decades.

 

Thanks

 

Loosen the bleeder screw before you push the piston back in. Attach tubing to collect the used fluid.
Do NOT push the old fluid back through the system.

 

Sometimes you can just use your hands. I also have a set of large channel locks I use for this.

Collecting the old fluid is a good idea. But can be messy. I usually do a mini bleed whenever I change out pads. Suck out as much fluid and dirt from the reservoir, fill with new. Bleed the dirty fluid out of the caliper. I don't do the entire system. The fluid right at the caliper gets cooked.

 

Bleed the brakes before you do this so that any fluid you do push back up is fresh and not going to get debris lodged by the retracting piston. Or loosen the bleed screw so push anything out that way. I don’t like doing that method only because it makes a mess, but it works. Do not just ignore the fluid and then retract the piston.

 

As Nissan4Life says a big pair channel locks works great. No need for high dollar tools.

 

I’ve done several sets on several cars with the same cheap c clamp from autozone. Never used the bleeder, but that makes sense if you can. I try to remember to pop the reservoir cap. Put power stop on all four corners of mine. I had to play with the parking brake afterwards. Wasn’t holding, so I heated it up a bit on the way home one day and used a infrared thermometer to determine the hot one and tightened the other. Do the break-in like it says, did seem to help.

 

I have a tool, inexpensive.

 

That tool doesn't work well on dual piston calibers though

 

You have ABS so if you do not open the bleed screws before you push the caliper piston back, you can damage the ABS module and that would be an expensive mistake. I recommend that you get some clear plastic tubing from the fish and aquarium department of a department store like Walmart. Cut off a foot or two and loop it upwards from the bleed valve when you open the bleed valve. That will keep air from getting into you brake system.

A large C-clamp, 16" channel lock pliers or that special tool will all work but I would also recommend that you keep the old pad in place over the piston to prevent any damage to the piston.

When you are done, it would be a good time to flush and bleed the brake system. After finishing the brake pads, use a suction tool (turkey baster etc) to draw out most of the brake fluid in the master cylinder, then refill with fresh. Then put a foot or two of that tubing on each bleeder valve, looped upward and then into a container. Open every brake bleeder and let the fluid flow, keeping the master cylinder full while doing this until the fluid is clear coming out the bleeders. You can close each bleeder as the fluid becomes clear.

When all four calipers are clear, top off the master cylinder to the "TOP" line and test the brakes. After a couple of pushes on the brake pedal to get the brake pads adjusted to the rotors, they should firm up. No additional bleeding should be necessary as long as you didn't get any air into the system. If they are soft, you will need to do the bleed procedure.

Edit: one more thing, while the pads are out, make sure the calipers slide easily on the caliper pins. If they do not, then you will need to get a seal kit for the caliper pins, clean them, lubricate them with silicone or synthetic grease and put in the new seals. If those calipers don't slide freely, your outer pads will wear out quickly, very quickly, like in just a month or two.

 

You have to crack the bleed screw. A brake system is made to put great pressure into the system without leaking fluid at the MC. Backing fluid through the MC is really bad and really screws up modern great brakes.

I also suggest sucking the old fluid from the MC reservoir and filling with new before you start. The new fluid will go into the lines when you are finished replacing the pads.

Grease the pins!

Tt

 

One last method that I actually use the most. I attach the tubing to the bleeder valve as described and then crack open the bleed valve. Then I just pull on the caliper toward the outside. That pushes the piston back into the caliper. It will usually almost all the way in this way and it makes the rest of the brake job go easier.

If it wont work that way, then something is wrong, bleed valve not open enough, the brake hardware is too dirty and rusted, or the caliper pins are stuck.

 

If you live near a big name, auto parts store, like Autozone, they usually have brake tools in their tool loaner program.