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i understand the first sentence...then you lose me....use your big words, please :)
:laugh:... I was afraid id accidentally clip a wire and mess up my trailer package, that i got on my truck from the dealer. Ive been looking at moving it from the stock location because, I'm always hitting it while offroading and tired of having to bend the plate back with my hands because of the odd placement Nissan decided on from the factory. Plus with this when i feel like it i can take off that damn trailer hitch to increase my departure angle's. While offroading.
 
:laugh:... I was afraid id accidentally clip a wire and mess up my trailer package, that i got on my truck from the dealer. Ive been looking at moving it from the stock location because, I'm always hitting it while offroading and tired of having to bend the plate back with my hands because of the odd placement Nissan decided on from the factory. Plus with this when i feel like it i can take off that damn trailer hitch to increase my departure angle's. While offroading.
you can take the wiring harness off from the plug - just remove the plastic cover. its really all too easy
 
This is where the plug should have been in the first place. I was wondering....
Where did you find the rust colored bolts? :)
They were a factory option on the XE's.

Plus with this when i feel like it i can take off that damn trailer hitch to increase my departure angle's. While offroading.
Do you have issues with your departure angle while onroading often?

And zedbra is right, its all relatively straight forward. he may be slightly exaggerating how easy it is to take the plug apart; i fought with mine for a while. I think it was more of an age/wear issue than anything else, though. its pretty simple. Do it up, sounds like you want to move yours for the same reason i moved mine. :ugogirl:
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Used a 2 1/4" hole saw.

I'd recommend a 2 1/8". Had to wiggle it around a little bit to make sure the whole thing was covered, and had plenty of room for the plug.

the 2nd gen plug might be a little different.

And yes. I know it crooked. Thank you for noticing.
Just to clarify you have a 1st gen right?

For my 2nd Gen I used a 2 1/4" hole saw and I had to trim some of the plastic off the plug to get it to fit through the hole.
 
They were a factory option on the XE's.



Do you have issues with your departure angle while onroading often?

And zedbra is right, its all relatively straight forward. he may be slightly exaggerating how easy it is to take the plug apart; i fought with mine for a while. I think it was more of an age/wear issue than anything else, though. its pretty simple. Do it up, sounds like you want to move yours for the same reason i moved mine. :ugogirl:
yeh lol for having a 2wd when i do wheel. I wheel it pretty hard and have left some good looking marks on my spare tire. It usually happens when im coming off a odd angled deep rute. Im not shy offroad lol
 
Great DIY thread. What do you recommend if you've already torn up the stock bracket and plug just doing what the truck is designed to do? Relocate with new generic plug and splice the wires? A new plug end & bracket from Nissan here is $80!!!
 
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Great DIY thread. What do you recommend if you've already torn up the stock bracket and plug just doing what the truck is designed to do? Relocate with new generic plug and splice the wires? A new plug end & bracket from Nissan here is $80!!!
You ought to be able to find a generic one at an RV dealer for a 1/3 of the price.
 
when i did mine i used a 2.5" bi-metal hole saw if anything there is a tiny sliver that doesnt cover but you have to be on your hands and knees and staring at it with the cover for the 7 pin open and still hard to see heres a couple pics the last two are why i did it and when i got a new plug i bought oem from my local dealer and they charged me around $100 ive been had


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I did the same thing to my truck when I first bought it in 2006. It was pretty much the same method, but I cut the bottom end of the hole flat so that way I wouldn't have to grind off the plastic tabs off the back of the plug. Doing it this way, you insert the plug upsidedown, then once its flush with the bumper, turn it 180 degrees. When you turen it rightsdieup, the plastic tabs lock into the upper rounded portion of the hole for support, and the lower bolts for security. Once the plug was fully installed, you can't even see the flat part of the hole!

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..when i did mine i used a 2.5" bi-metal hole saw...
^I used a disposable hole saw :) .. couldn't find my 2.25" Milwalkie Sooo.. I bought a Taiwanese 2.25" wood one and toasted teh hell out it! Perfect one shot deal :laugh:
 
as far as the wiring of the 7 pin do you need to do anything other than just plug it in? and do you need anything else to have the trailer breaks work?
 
You need the OEM 7-pin wiring harness with the relays for everything to work. Without it, your brake lights won't work correctly and everything will be screwed up. The key is the relays, thus the statement stating you "needed" the oem 7-pin kit.

Side Note: I have always found it to be better to buy the 7-pin harness and then having a 7-4 adapter on hand when one is needed. Its always easier to go from 7-4 instead of 4-7.
 
You need the OEM 7-pin wiring harness with the relays for everything to work. Without it, your brake lights won't work correctly and everything will be screwed up. The key is the relays, thus the statement stating you "needed" the oem 7-pin kit.

Side Note: I have always found it to be better to buy the 7-pin harness and then having a 7-4 adapter on hand when one is needed. Its always easier to go from 7-4 instead of 4-7.
got ya where can i get one of those adapters for fairly cheap?
second if you get the Nissan oem 7 pin kit it will have trailer breaks without a control unit? the little box that flashes when you press the brakes lol. is that unit just for if you want to adjust the sensitivity and fine tune them?
 
If you have the towing package from the factory, then there is a wiring harness under the dash for installing an electric brake controller. You can add this on if it was not OEM, but you have to buy some relays, etc, to get it to work. I think there are a couple write ups on that. You have to buy an "external" brake controleler, only some of the new trucks from Ford and GMC are carrying the built in dash brake controller. The brake controller is used to adjust the force of the brakes to suit the stopping power of your car and due to the increased or decreased load of the trailer. More weight would mean raising the braking force.
 
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