The hardest part is dropping the tank. It's easier if it's near empty and you have some help, or you have some sort of jack to raise and lower it. Other than that it's just unscrewing the fuel sensor and putting the new one in. Probably 2 hours max and a full weekend would be more than enough insurance to get it done if a problem arises.

 

^Agree. I just had a buddy come over and help me lift and lower tank for some beers. Real easy, don't give the dealership any money. We had it done in about an hour and a half taking our time.

 

My other question is I have 85,000 miles on the '07. Would it be worth it to spend 300 on a whole new fuel pump or just the 100 for the sending unit?
Thanks guys

 

That one is your call. Mine started acting up around 45k and I didn't actually fix it until 60k. I chose to not replace the pump. Most cars among my family don't need a new fuel pump until they get near the 150k mark. While it would be easier to change the pump while you have the assembly out, its really not that hard to just drop the tank again when/if you need a new fuel pump.
Also, the $300 is that just the pump? Or the assembly? Seems a bit high for just the pump. The assembly will come with a new sending unit BTW.

 

You can find the pump/sending unit several places on the Internet for way less than $300, here is one for $112: 2007 Nissan Frontier Electric Fuel Pump and Sending Unit Module at 1A Auto.com

 

If you need help or have questions about the one that we carry I can help you out.

Tony

 

I was able to find a Replacement sensor for $55 total (tax + shipping). I've seen 2 you tube videos on doing the replacement and in both videos, the clip that secures the electrical connection at the rear of the gas tank by the filler was broken when attempting to disconnect it using screwdrivers to push the clip ends through. Any ideas how to keep this from occurring or replace the clip if it beaks?

 

Replaced mine today. Instead of changing the whole pump assembly I only changed the fuel level sending unit because it was only $50 US and it's a pretty easy job anyway if I ever do have to change the pump in the future.

Drove onto 4 ramps to ensure adequate clearance to slide tank out while on the jack. Pulled the fuel pump fuse then ran the engine until it stalled (2-3 seconds) to clear the lines. Removed filler hose at tank connection and siphoned 1/2 tank of gas out using 3/8" ID hose (blew compressed air over hose end to get siphon started) which drained in about 6-7 minutes. Took extra care with the U-clip on the EVAP hose and managed not to break it. Electrical connector on top of the tank was a PITA until I figured out how to unclip it. Other connections are easy.

In the 3rd photo notice the 2 metal tabs which sweep over the sensor face... one is worn down and the other is completely worn off to the point it does not make contact anymore.
New sending unit (Dorman 911-056) looks better: instead of the tabs having thin "hairs", each is a solid (but still flexible) metal tab with a tiny 1/2 sphere contact point on the end... can't see those wearing out. Sorry didn't snap a pic of the Dorman tabs. Otherwise it looks identical to the OEM unit and did come with the o-ring gasket for the tank.

Original sending unit lasted 150k miles. New one registered correctly upon refilling the gas, and at the usually full mark when I topped it off at the station. Drove home 60 miles; all seems good.
This video was helpful in preparing for the job:

 

For what it's worth, MY 2005 and 2006 models were covered by TSB NTB07-006 that added a Fuel Pump Protector. This was an inexpensive adder that mounted to the locking ring and provided a plastic dome above the fuel pump. I added it when I replaced my sending unit and it was a bit of a pain to put in place. It's probably not necessary.

I used a floor jack to support my tank as I lowered it and did so s l o w l y so as to disconnect the various connections without stretching anything. My Nissan Dealer broke my 17226-EA000 [Tube, Ventilation] in a previous repair and didn't replace it, so I bought a replacement.

Knocking on wood, I did this work 100,000 Miles ago and everything has been fine with it since. Better to have $600 in my pocket than the Dealer's.

A note to newbies to be VERY careful when working with fuel systems. To avoid a spark, I used a hammer and a 1" x 1" x 8" piece of oak to drive the locking ring. I also suggest having a fire extinguisher handy just in case the unexpected happens.

 

I had used the same hammer method to remove the locking ring. I didn't like the amount of force/vibrations involved so for reinstall so I made my own "special tool"... basically a 3 foot piece of 1" square tubing (anything would work though, even a 2x4) with 2 bolts sticking through at the diameter of the locking ring to create a wrench. Worked great!

 

Thanks Monashee -- good work! I actually built a snazzy locking ring holder from scrap oak (because of it's strength), but didn't realize that I'd need a 3 FT long wrench handle like yours to exert enough leverage to turn the thing! <sigh> With darkness approaching and my enthusiasm on the wane, I reverted to the aforementioned oak stick and hammer, and used slight taps to drive the ring back in place.

 

I had a similar issue on my last truck (96 hardbody). I found the easiest way to get to the gas pump was to lift the bed rather than drop the tank. Loosen 4 bolts holding the bed and the far side, and remove 4 bolts on the gas tank side. Then lift and prop up with a 2x4. Took about 10 min to do. You did not need to drain the tank or mess with any of the line. Then simply unbolt all of the fuel pump screws and the pump lifts right out.

 

That's what I was hoping to do; the usual method for most trucks. Easy to remove tail lights, filler hose, 4 bed bolts, tail gate... ready to move. On the 2nd gen Frontiers, the fuel pump is located approximately when the bed meets the cab (tank spans across both) and I wasn't sure if removing the bed would allow access to it or not. I was also not able to find an example online of someone who did it this way so I didn't want to chance it. Could have measured somehow I suppose. Maybe someone knows if it's possible or not?

 

It's been successfully done both ways on the current Gen Frontiers. I was working alone and had no way to hoist off the bed, and had no place to set it down, so simply lowered the tank with my floor jack with no problem.

 

Good to know that this method will work. Even with a CC. When I did it I did not remove the bed. Just tipped it up.

 

I would just add to be careful of the electrical connection; it got extended to the limit before I caught it. I used a motorcycle lift to raise and lower the tank. The only thing I would have done differently is to lift the front and back of the truck. I did the job by myself, and the angle made it a little troublesome.