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Nope . Back was bothering me on Sunday so I put it off. Although I should have done while it was nice out. (63°) Now instead I'll be doing it this coming weekend when it's 20 something out. Brrrr!!!
I will post an update asap.
 
Just did mine. Window was going up really slow so I tried lubing it and going up and down a few times. Motor died in the down position.. I have a gearwrench hollow small ratchet set and I was able to get in there and get the bolts out. I had to take the speaker enclosure out for one side but it wasn't too bad. To hold the glass I first tried tape but being around freezing it didn't want to stick to my liking sooo I got some wooden shims out. I use them to rehang/shim doors square and they are under two bucks for a dozen. Anyway I just wedged one in each side of the window track to hold up the window. Would work for tinted windows if you put them I the non tinted side. I followed the YouTube video that the other guy posted already instead of wasting 60$. Commutator (what the carbon brushes in motors rub on to transfer power to make the motor spin) was all plugged up with carbon. It has ten separate lobes but in essence only one as they were all connected by carbon dust which is why nothing moved. One you get the regulator out it's only three screws holding the back side of the motor on, well another three holding the motor assembly to the regulator track.. I used a razor blade (if you don't have any, do yourself a favor and by a box of 100 from hd or Lowe's, work great for cleaning stickers of glass and burnt food off a glass stove top and only 6 bucks about) to clean out the commutator gaps and some contact cleaner I that and the brushes. Added some grease on the bushing surfaces, cleaned up the regulator track and greased it and it's good as new. And I have 60 bucks still!!!::grin::
 

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...clean out the commutator gaps and some contact cleaner I that and the brushes. Added some grease on the bushing surfaces, cleaned up the regulator track and greased it and it's good as new. And I have 60 bucks still!!!::grin::
Sounds good. Good job on saving some money!

Actually, repairing the motor is probably the more logical approach at repairing a sluggish/stuck window because after replacing mine yesterday (took about 30 minutes) I noticed an extreme amount of play (wobble) of the window glass when in the halfway-down position. It's actually pretty ridiculous. Thinking it was the new part not installed correctly, I rolled down the passenger side window and it also wobbles badly...but not as bad as driver's side window, which has the Dorman replacement part.

So the track of the Dorman part may not be as good as the original part. I don't know for sure.

Also, be advised that Nissan really phoned it in when selecting screws/bolts for the door hardware. Even tightening to a slight amount may result in stripping of the steel and/or components. Truly bad form. I wondered why the screws seemed loose when I took apart the door, but they need to be to avoid stripping. The worst offenders were the door-pull bracket screws (3). These, which have the most force exerted on them when pulling the door closed, are super loose. One day, I'm sure, they'll just pull out.
 
I just changed my motor/regulated yest and it took about 30 mins including a new speaker. Just a cheapy I had on hand. At least it doesn't buzz!
Anyway I also noticed the tightness of the bolts. I've also noticed the thinness of the steel.

I saved my old motor to play with and possibly have a spare.

I've rebuilt starters this same way.
Works great.
 
The auto down is a timer circuit in the switch not the motor. So as long as you have auto down, it will be auto down.
When you remove the power plug to the motor you can rest to make sure it is autually the motor and not the switch. You can take a voltage reading at the plug. If you hit the switch and you see 12 v, then the switch is good. Do not remove the regulator and motor. Do make sure that the probe of the volt meter is small enough to actually reach the metal tabs of the plug.
 
I know this is an old post but I just used it. Thank you! This video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f2rXt02cpY Nissan driver side window not working. (repair motor), is the one thing that will really work short of buying a new motor assembly. It's easy to do, just clean the gunk around the brushes with contact cleaner & a tooth brush. I used scotch bright on the commutator and also pushed the white seal collar back down the shaft. When re-installing, you can wiggle the commutator past the brushes then turn it clockwise to screw the worm onto the gear. Presto, a working motor.
Again, thank you.
 
Ugh

I'm trying to put the motor back together and in my first pic do I need to turn the motor CW or CCW from that position? I can't seem to get the motor to drop all the way in, see second picture. That isn't flush yet, correct? Am I missing something? Thanks for your sticky and help.

He just slipped it right in on that video, LOL. Did you put it in the metal part first also?
 

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When I put it in the metal can first it also gets to right here and the screws will not start it's not flush, and I can't turn the gear with the motor in?
 

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You have to use a thin screwdriver or something to hold a brush to the side & wiggle the commutator past the brushes. Don't force it. Then turn the motor CW to mesh the worm gear. I had the whole motor assembled before inserting into the gear assembly. It's a bit of a fiddle but much cheaper than a new motor.
I have an '07 & lots of dust has gotten into the motor. Not a problem if you stay on pavement:)
 
You have to use a thin screwdriver or something to hold a brush to the side & wiggle the commutator past the brushes. Don't force it. Then turn the motor CW to mesh the worm gear. I had the whole motor assembled before inserting into the gear assembly. It's a bit of a fiddle but much cheaper than a new motor.
I have an '07 & lots of dust has gotten into the motor. Not a problem if you stay on pavement:)
Thanks for the reply. I've already ordered a new motor/reg but I'm worried it will not be here in time and we need to use the truck to move tables and supplies to set up for a weekend jewelry show. If you push the brushes back you can put a part of a paper clip in to hold them back. I don't know if you can see in this picture look for the shiny metal spikes on both sides. It will help me if I can get it in but I'm going to give it a break and try tomorrow.

Thanks
 

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Mine went back together fairly easy, like the video. Maybe try putting the shaft in first then the housing after. That way you can see if the shaft is going all the way in. Also allows you to turn it easier. The worm gear has to mesh & turn with the gear as it goes in.
 
I still have my OEM motor regulator unit. Thinking of cleaning it up. But maybe I will just throw it away since the replacement was cheap and has been working perfectly.
 
I still have my OEM motor regulator unit. Thinking of cleaning it up. But maybe I will just throw it away since the replacement was cheap and has been working perfectly.
Same here, but it's just not worth my time. After cleaning it up what do I do with it. It's not actually rebuilt. The brushes aren't replaced and the comutater isn't turned. All your really doing is cleaning the dust from the brushes wearing down.
 
Same here, but it's just not worth my time. After cleaning it up what do I do with it. It's not actually rebuilt. The brushes aren't replaced and the comutater isn't turned. All your really doing is cleaning the dust from the brushes wearing down.
How is the Dorman model Hotrod? I just ordered and will be here tomorrow - hoping it isn't a frequent fix.

BTW - to those whose windows get stuck in full down position (as mine did) - as you know you can't get to the 2 bolts that connect the window to the regulator. I couldn't force the window up at all - (I have learned to not make more work during these types of repairs).. Remove the 4 bolts that attach the regulator to the door panel as well as the 3 that attach the motor to the door panel - leaving it loose. Slide the rail top as far left as you can (bottom stays where it is, top is slanted away from the truck (left)) and pull the window up. Working solo, I just used a piece of wood to hold the window slightly up while I got the two bolts attaching the window and regulator. It can come out of the left panel hole once unbolted.

I also used two boards and cross slat to hold the window up while I wait for the replacement to arrive. My motor was dead when it was in the door, pulled it out and tapped it a few times with the wrench, plugged it in and it worked. At that point, I wasn't going to put it back in to have it flake out a day or 2 later.
 
Whitenismo I put the doorman one in my driver side 741-348(kept box in garage for warranty) went with them cause it kept the auto down intact but it's been in almost a year no problems
 
After about 6 months it started to make noise like there was gravel inside the motor or track. And again it went away after about 3 months, slowly. So it's been in over a yr now and it still works fine.
As for the Dorman keeping the auto down function, that feature is built into the the relay setup not the motor.
 
When my door was stuck down, I banged the inside real good a couple of times and it went up. Didn't touch the switch again until repair time. Unfortunately, in Canada, our parts aren't as cheap so I cleaned my motor. Wasn't worn out, just dirty. Has been working for a year and a half now. It had to come out anyway so cleaning saved a few bucks. New or clean, your choice.
 
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