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DIY: Rubber Hose Replacement (Nissan part numbers and pictures included)

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147K views 86 replies 31 participants last post by  riesc1982  
#1 · (Edited)
Enjoy this DIY thread for the replacement of ALL you rubber hose's for the 4.0L engine (coolant, vacuum, EVAP, PCV, oil cooler, heater, ect...). There are a few other parts too: thermostat, PCV valve, brake booster check valve, EVAP test port, fan clutch, radiator cap, overflow tank cap.

In the pictures you will see the actual part on the truck (pointed to with a red pointer). The following picture will show you the Nissan part, including part number of the hose and hose clamps. If no hose clamps are shown, I had to reuse the old clamps.

FYI, per the factory service manual, the ONLY hose clamps that are "required" to be replaced after every removal is the brake booster vacuum hose clamps (qty 2). I just replaced all of them because they are almost 10 years old.


****Double click on the pictures throughout the thread to enlarge image****

TIP, I used a razor blade to cut each hose at each fitting, since I was replacing them anyways. The old hoses are really stuck on there fittings, so this TIP will save you valuable time and energy!


Thank you,

CPS
 
#2 · (Edited)
Brake booster vacuum hose and check valve

Brake booster vacuum hose is straight forward, you just need some long needle nose pliers to get to the clamp on the intake manifold side.

Per the factory service manual, it is "required" that you replace both hose clamps every time they are removed or serviced.

47474-EA000
16439-17B0A (qty 2)

Brake booster check valve pulls straight out of rubber grommet. Takes a little bit of force, but it will come out. Remove old grommet, replace with new grommet, insert new check valve. Push in check valve until it sits flush with grommet.

47478-AX600
 
#3 · (Edited)
Radiator Cap, Overflow Cap, Fan Clutch

Thermal fan clutch will needed to be removed at the same time you remove the plastic fan shroud. Leave serpentine belt on, loosen the (4) 10 mm nuts at the base of the thermal fan clutch, but do not completely remove them. Unscrew the (2) 10 mm bolts that hold the fan shroud to the radiator. Unclip the overflow reservoir hose from the shroud. Unclip wire connector on the passenger side of the shroud, about half way down. Unclip transmission cooler hose from the lower passenger side of the shroud. Removal of the upper radiator hose will make the removal of the fan shroud easier. Now, take off the (4) nuts from the thermal fan clutch, slide fan clutch off of the studs, and lift both the fan clutch and the fan shroud straight up at the same time. Remove the (4) 10 mm bolts that hold the plastic fan to the face of the fan clutch. Install fan blades to new fan clutch, torque bolts to 80 INCH LBS. The (4) nuts that attach fan clutch to pulley need to be torqued to 71 INCH LBS.

New fan clutch does have some very slight resistance, which is good. My old fan clutch had none!

21082-EA200
Overflow tank cap (the one with the spring on the bottom, don't get them mixed up)
Radiator fill cap (cap ONLY, no spring on the bottom)

New caps: Overflow cap (left) / Radiator cap (right)

21430-1P111 / 21430-1P107
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thermostat and gasket

New thermostat and gasket, you DO NOT use gasket maker, just the Nissan gasket.

21200-31U1B
13050-ZA000 (qty 1)
There are 2 hoses that attach to the thermostat: lower radiator hose and oil cooler bypass hose. Once all of the coolant is drained from the radiator, you can disconnect these hoses with minimal coolant leakage. Now, unbolt the (3) 10 mm bolts from the thermostat, pull straight out. Clean gasket matting surface and wipe dry. If you have compressed air (or canned air for computers), blow out the 3 thread bolt holes for the thermostat. You don't want any coolant in the holes when you start torquing the bolts, because you can hydrolock the bolts making removal difficult at a later date and time. Install gasket/thermostat/bolts. Torque (3) bolts to 80 INCH LBS (the red pointer is pointing to the oil cooler by pass hose, but the thermostat is right behind this hose)
 
#5 · (Edited)
EVAP hoses and service valve (page 1)

There are (4) total EVAP hoses

New hose and clamps

14912-EA223
01558-00411 (qty 2)
Old hose


New hose and clamps

14912-EA224
01558-00411 (qty 2)
 
#6 · (Edited)
EVAP hoses and service valve (page 2)

EVAP service port

EVAP service port

14939-EA200
Pay close attention to this hose, as it requires (2) different hose clamps. It is not the same hose clamp part numbers as the other 3 EVAP hoses.

New hose and clamps (Attention: read above)

14912-EA206
16439-42L0B (qty 2)
 
#7 · (Edited)
Coolant Hose (page 1)

As you can see from the picture, I have done the throttle body coolant hose bypass. Mine has been done for 8 years.

New hose and clamps

14056-EA200
16439-56S0A (qty 2)
Coolant bypass hose

New hose and clamps

14056-EA205
16439-56S0A (qty 2)
 
#8 · (Edited)
Coolant Hose (page 2)

Coolant bypass hose

New hose and clamps

14055-EA200
01558-00461 (qty 2)
Driver side rear heater hose

New hose and clamps

92413-EA200
01558-00521 (qty 2)
 
#9 · (Edited)
Coolant Hose (page 3)

Heater core to water pipe hose

New hose and clamps

92400-EA200
01558-00521 (qty 2)
 
#10 · (Edited)
Oil Cooler Hose (page 1)

There are (4) oil cooler hoses, but I was only able to do 3 out of the 4. See next page for details.

New hose and clamps

21306-EA21A
16439-7S01D (qty 2)
Old oil cooler hose (long one)

New hose and clamps

21306-EA20A
16439-7S01D (qty 2)
 
#11 · (Edited)
Oil Cooler Hose (page 2)

Thermostat to metal pipe, oil cooler hose

New hose and clamps

21306-EA215
16439-7S01D (qty 2)
This picture is actually the top portion of the long oil cooler hose, see post before.
This is the hose that I could not change out. In order to change out this hose, you MUST remove the upper plastic intake manifold, fuel rail, and the lower metal intake manifold. I will wait until I change out my spark plugs again to do this hose. Sad thing is, this hose is only 3 inches long!

21306-EA200
16439-7S01D (qty 2)
 
#12 · (Edited)
Overflow Tank Hose (page 1)

Radiator overflow to reservoir hose


New hose

21742-EA000
Clamps already included on assembly
Red pointer is pointing to reservoir cap, but the vent hose is in the picture under the red pointer.


New hose

21741-EA000
No clamp needed
 
#13 · (Edited)
Overflow Tank Hose (page 2)

WOW, this hose was the biggest pain in the a** of all the hoses! Took me a full hour to swap it out. Basically, you have to remove the battery-coolant reservoir-relay box-then loosen the main fuse/relay box closest to the fire wall. Then you have to fish the whole metal/rubber hose assembly under the main fuse/relay box, clip it into place at 2 points, then struggle to get the small 2 inch hose onto the nipple at the bottom of the coolant overflow reservoir, then put clamp in place. Then install everything in reverse order. Have fun with this one!!!
View of the 2 inch hose way down at the bottom!

New hose

21744-EA000
Clamps are already included with assembly
 
#61 · (Edited)
cps said:
Overflow Tank Hose (page 2)

WOW, this hose was the biggest pain in the a** of all the hoses! Took me a full hour to swap it out. Basically, you have to remove the battery-coolant reservoir-relay box-then loosen the main fuse/relay box closest to the fire wall. Then you have to fish the whole metal/rubber hose assembly under the main fuse/relay box, clip it into place at 2 points, then struggle to get the small 2 inch hose onto the nipple at the bottom of the coolant overflow reservoir, then put clamp in place. Then install everything in reverse order. Have fun with this one!!!
View attachment 84466
View of the 2 inch hose way down at the bottom!
View attachment 84474

New hose

21744-EA000
Clamps are already included with assembly

View attachment 84482
Click to expand...
Sorry to revive an old thread.

Can anyone provide me with more information on a few things replacing this hose? I have removed the battery, the coolant reservoir, and loosened the small fuse box from its bracket. I loosened 1 obvious bolt from the large fuse box bracket and it will not budge. I have disconnected the rubber portions of the hose at each end of the metal portion, but can absolutely not figure out how to get it out of the truck, from above or below. I disconnected both cradle style clips from below so it is freely moving.

Am I missing something on how to loosen the large fuse box that would allow the old portion to slide out and the new assembly to slide in?
 
#14 · (Edited)
PCV Hose and Valve (page 1)

Second worst pain in the butt hose removal and install (I did it without removing intake manifold)
Side by side comparison of the old style (2 hoses and 4 clamps) and the new one piece hose with 2 hose clamps. I did reuse 2 of the old hose clamps for this install.

11823-EA20A (this is the new superseded part number)
Reused old clamps
Valve cover to valve cover PCV crossover hose (this old hose was the most brittle, it actually broke in half like glass)

New hose, there are no clamps from the factory

11826-EA200
 
#55 ·
cps said:
Second worst pain in the butt hose removal and install (I did it without removing intake manifold)
View attachment 84490
Side by side comparison of the old style (2 hoses and 4 clamps) and the new one piece hose with 2 hose clamps. I did reuse 2 of the old hose clamps for this install.

11823-EA20A (this is the new superseded part number)
Reused old clamps

View attachment 84498
Valve cover to valve cover PCV crossover hose (this old hose was the most brittle, it actually broke in half like glass)
View attachment 84506

New hose, there are no clamps from the factory

11826-EA200

View attachment 84514
Click to expand...
Changed out my PCV valve and all three PCV hoses today. Just like the OP, my crossover hose snapped when I removed it. Thanks for the all the work you put into this thread CPS - it made the whole process super quick and easy.
 
#15 · (Edited)
PCV Hose and Valve (page 2)

Valve cover to air intake tube hose

New hose

11826-ZL80B
Reused old clamps

New PCV valve, the size wrench you will need is 23 mm, but good luck! I used an adjustable wrench, took about 30 minutes. DON'T STRIP IT OUT, it has a rubber o ring that does all the sealing! Just make sure the PCV valve "nut" part is flush with valve cover.

11810-EA200
 
#16 · (Edited)
Upper/Lower Radiator Hose

Upper radiator hose

New hose and clamps

21501-EA200
92527-ZX51A (qty 2)
Lower radiator hose

New hose and clamps

21503-EA200
92527-ZX51A (qty 2)
 
#17 · (Edited)
Vacuum Hose (page 1)

These 2 small vacuum hoses have been discontinued from Nissan (Nissan uses bulk rolled hose now). I went out to O'Reilly AutoParts and bought 2 feet to the Gates 5/32" or 4 mm hose and cut it to the length of the two hoses I took off. The third longer vacuum hose is a formed hose, see next page.
Vacuum hose (see above)

Gates 5/32" or 4 mm bulk hose (Gates part # 27042)
 
#18 · (Edited)
Vacuum Hose (page 2)

Formed vacuum hose

New hose, there are no hose clamps from the factory

22320-EA200
 
#65 ·
Sorry for reviving an old thread here. Not sure if the OP is still around even.

My question relates to post 18. Does the formed hose need to be used, or can it be replaced with the same 4mm bulk hose mentioned in post 17?

Post 18:
cps said:
Vacuum Hose (page 2)

Formed vacuum hose
View attachment 84610

New hose, there are no hose clamps from the factory

22320-EA200

View attachment 84618
Click to expand...
Post 17:
cps said:
Vacuum Hose (page 1)

These 2 small vacuum hoses have been discontinued from Nissan (Nissan uses bulk rolled hose now). I went out to O'Reilly AutoParts and bought 2 feet to the Gates 5/32" or 4 mm hose and cut it to the length of the two hoses I took off. The third longer vacuum hose is a formed hose, see next page.
View attachment 84586
Vacuum hose (see above)
View attachment 84594

Gates 5/32" or 4 mm bulk hose (Gates part # 27042)

View attachment 84602
Click to expand...
 
#19 · (Edited)
Factory Diagrams (page 1)

EVAP diagram
Heater diagram
Oil Cooler diagram
PCV diagram
 
#20 · (Edited)
Factory Diagrams (page 2)

Radiator diagram
 
#21 · (Edited)
Engine Compartment and Old Hose Picture

Engine bay with everything removed
A mess of old hoses and parts!

All that's left is to fill up the radiator with 50/50 antifreeze, park the truck safely on an incline with the radiator facing up (radiator must be higher than the engine and the heater core hoses on the back fire wall), remove radiator cap, start engine with heater on, and let idle while you add antifreeze as the air bubble escape. Go drive it, check for any leaks (shouldn't be), repeat above if necessary. Make sure you check the antifreeze level in the overflow tank!
 
#71 ·
cps said:
Engine Compartment and Old Hose Picture

Engine bay with everything removed
View attachment 84666
A mess of old hoses and parts!
View attachment 84674

All that's left is to fill up the radiator with 50/50 antifreeze, park the truck safely on an incline with the radiator facing up (radiator must be higher than the engine and the heater core hoses on the back fire wall), remove radiator cap, start engine with heater on, and let idle while you add antifreeze as the air bubble escape. Go drive it, check for any leaks (shouldn't be), repeat above if necessary. Make sure you check the antifreeze level in the overflow tank!
Click to expand...
I'm in the process of replacing my rubber hoses with silicone hoses. Buying/bought them from Z1 Offroad.
 
#22 · (Edited)
End!!!

Please feel free to add or comment on this thread!

CPS
 
#24 · (Edited)
I'm officially DONE!!!

Please start from the beginning of this thread as I have know completed all of the text along with the pictures and part numbers!

Enjoy!

CPS
 
#28 · (Edited)
I knew this question was coming!

Well, there is a lot of other parts in the mix too: thermostat and gasket, thermal fan clutch, PCV valve, EVAP service port, brake booster check valve, radiator cap, reservoir cap, antifreeze.

NOT TO MENTION, the serpentine belt tensioner bearing was shot and the idler pulley was squealing. Found this out when I removed the belt! Yea, more money! Those parts along with a new belt will be here Wednesday.

$395 for hose, clamps, antifreeze, and such
$130 for new fan clutch
$80 for new belt tensioner, belt, idler pulley (Gates Brand on Amazon.com)

Total $605
 
#27 · (Edited)
I just went back through and added all the part numbers above each picture.

Double click the picture, it will open it up bigger. I took all of those pictures with my iPhone 4, so I hope the pictures are clear enough.

With research (all part numbers I looked up on my own), labor, thread creation......17 hours to complete! It was fun....hehe

CPS
 
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