Any idea what year, engine and transmission truck we're talking about?

 

Sorry, I should have stated that in my post. It's a 2011 SV V6 4WD.

 

here is a thread:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/warning-clean-your-battery-terminals-81285/

 

If the CEL is on has the vehicle been scanned for codes? That will be the first place to start, since no one here can see and touch your truck.

 

Seems as your truck is in safe mode - as mentioned above Scan and see what is indicated.

 

I replaced the positive battery terminal clamp, but I'm still having issues. Once I disconnect the battery, then reconnect it, the truck will run for a little while and allow me to accelerate normally. I was able to drive it from my house to an open school parking lot across the street for a few minutes, then the service engine light, VDC off, and Slip light remain on steadily. So I disconnected the battery, reconnected, and was just barely able to make it across the street to my house, then all the lights reappeared again.

My code reader lists the following codes:

P2127: throttle pedal position sensor switch "E" Circuit Low input

P2122: throttle/pedal Position sensor switch "D" Circuit low input

P0443: Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve circuit

P0123: Throttle/pedal position sensor A circuit high input

p0222: Throttle/pedal position sensor B circuit low input

P0643: Sensor Reference Voltage A Circuit High

 

I know this is stating the obvious but even though the battery is only 1.5 years old have you checked the voltage on it? You have a lot of codes that could be caused by voltage problems.

 

It's reading about 14.4 volts while running, and 12.20 when not running.

 

I've had Nissan batteries quit anywhere from 1.25-1.75 years old which is way too soon.
Nissan batteries are NOT maintenance free.

Clint

 

Need to charge battery if all you read is 12.2 - fully charged you should be 13+.

My original battery is still going strong after 7 years - I keep it clean, proper 'water' level, and fully charged (when I don't drive it for a week or more I will hook up a battery maintainer).

 

Just heard back from the dealer...they say it's a bad Transmission Control Module, and want $2,000+ to fix it.

I have never had any issues or erratic behavior from my transmission in the past.

 

I think I would get a second opinion.


However, I have seen one electrical problem cascade in to a mess of them.

 

Hey OP, what ended up happening here? I'm having a similar issue.

 

Any idea what year, engine and transmission truck we're talking about?

Any idea what year, engine and transmission truck we're talking about?

 

So I also had these codes, I took my battery out and tested my voltage while not under load and it was around 11 / 12v. I put it on a maintenance trickle charger until it was green and at 13v. I popped it back in and boom all error codes gone, rescanned the the truck nothing.

The tremors I had when the car was idling are also gone.

My truck is an 09 SE V6 4.0 King Cab 171k miles on it. I think I'll put some money aside for a new alternator and serpentine belt soon as I have a feeling it was running on this dying battery for a bit, which I found out wasn't even the right sized battery which could have contributed to these problems.

I was told by people much wiser than me every time something comes up "did you check your battery?" and man, are they right.

 

I was told by people much wiser than me every time something comes up "did you check your battery?" and man, are they right.

Long time ago everything in the car ran on 12 volts (before that, 6 volts).
Now, many of the sensors run as low as 1/10 of one volt.
You need good clean steady power to maintain a narrow range of microvolts. Corroded battery cables, terminals, and weak batteries set the stage for trouble. It can cause multiple "problems" to appear all at once, where there were none the day before.
That's why it's the first step in troubleshooting.

 

^If your alternator is working like it should, it will be keeping your battery at 12.8 volts or higher whenever the engine is running (and can be as high as 14.5 volts right after a cold start).

If you're seeing less than 12.8 volts while the engine is running, something's not right.

BTW, there's nothing wrong with using a battery that's bigger than the original size (i.e., Group 27, 29, 30, 31, etc.).

Bigger batteries tend to last longer, due to not having to work as hard - and often don't cost any more than the original Group 35 size.