[GreyFox]

14.2-14.3v, same as it was yesterday on the other thread.

Nice
Seems this IS the way to go moving forward. I'm just holding off to obtain more info on HOW to de-pin it vs just snipping it. Stupid plastic locking tabs on these plugs are very frustrating
Keep us posted on your second battery project too.

 

[Cryptic1911]

maybe try finding a 12v car wiring group on facebook and ask. There's some that are dedicated to racecar stuff and work with all kinds of plugs and pins, so they may have some insight on how to depin it. Also, I wonder if there is any place you can get a male and female plug to make a short extender, which you could leave that single wire out, rather than cutting the harness

 

[Cryptic1911]

Actually I just had another thought. would it be possible to put some kapton tape over the pin to isolate the signal? that might work and not be a permanent modification. People use it to block pins on sata connectors on pc hard drives to kill the 3.3v signal when they shuck disks out of usb enclosures

How to Fix the 3.3V Pin Issue in White Label Disks Shucked From Western Digital 8TB Easystore Drives

How to Fix the 3.3V Pin Issue in White Label Disks Shucked From Western Digital 8TB Easystore Drives: If you find this instructable useful, please consider subscribing to my Youtube channel for upcoming DIY tutorials concerning technology. Thank you!

www.instructables.com

 

[GreyFox]

maybe try finding a 12v car wiring group on facebook and ask. There's some that are dedicated to racecar stuff and work with all kinds of plugs and pins, so they may have some insight on how to depin it. Also, I wonder if there is any place you can get a male and female plug to make a short extender, which you could leave that single wire out, rather than cutting the harness

Actually I just had another thought. would it be possible to put some kapton tape over the pin to isolate the signal? that might work and not be a permanent modification. People use it to block pins on sata connectors on pc hard drives to kill the 3.3v signal when they shuck disks out of usb enclosures

How to Fix the 3.3V Pin Issue in White Label Disks Shucked From Western Digital 8TB Easystore Drives

How to Fix the 3.3V Pin Issue in White Label Disks Shucked From Western Digital 8TB Easystore Drives: If you find this instructable useful, please consider subscribing to my Youtube channel for upcoming DIY tutorials concerning technology. Thank you!

www.instructables.com

Both are good options, I just don't think access to apply the tape would be feasible. If one could de-pin to gain access, might as well just leave the pin out vs. taping it and reinstalling? IMO

I also like the extension idea, might have to see from Nissan what part number that is? Although my luck with the parts counter staff is atrocious (try asking them to find the OEM engine block heater for the Frontier and see the glazed look they give you back )

I'm pretty good at figuring stuff out on my own. I will try this "locking" connector again before I submit to cutting. It's personal now

Appreciate the ideas though. Maybe another member here will find a better option or use one of your ideas

 

[Cryptic1911]

Could you disconnect the negative battery cable with the whole sensor to get access to the pins?

also, posted in the other thread, but here's a place that sells the connector. pricey as hell, but has pics of different angles

4 Pin Connector

Harrness Repair Kit

connectorexperts.com

 

[jonnycando]

I have 2024 sv 4x4...i found pink wire in negative cable plug. It.shall.be.depinned...relevant tool on order.

 

[Dave2003]

I have 2024 sv 4x4...i found pink wire in negative cable plug. It.shall.be.depinned...relevant tool on order.

It pushes out with a paperclip. no need to buy a tool.

 

[jonnycando]

Well I do a number of wiring things so will want the tools.

 

[jonnycando]

Wire is conductus interruptus...display complains about a fault in auto start/stop...not worried about that at all. Alternator now performs as they were designed to do!

 

[Crafted]

I de-pinned the pink wire on the 4-pin connector on the negative terminal.. good results so far, did this on my lunch break today. The truck was running 11.5-12.3v and now it is a constant 13.6-13.9 mostly .9 .. instantly noticed all my windows roll up faster and on the way home from work the headlights were brighter lol..

I did notice on the way home it throws codes has anyone else noticed this and is it anything to worry about?

 

[jonnycando]

I get no codes, just a nag screen on startup. There is no underlying code, it's just strongarming you to put it back. You don't have to unless you have a warranty claim...then temporarily plug it back in. You may have different ecu calibration that sets a code.

 

[bajasam]

I de-pinned the pink wire on the 4-pin connector on the negative terminal.. good results so far, did this on my lunch break today. The truck was running 11.5-12.3v and now it is a constant 13.6-13.9 mostly .9 .. instantly noticed all my windows roll up faster and on the way home from work the headlights were brighter lol..

I did notice on the way home it throws codes has anyone else noticed this and is it anything to worry about?

View attachment 396199

you'll have those as stored codes, but you won't get any type of check eng light.

 

[Crafted]

Ok cool thank you! 💪🏻

 

[GreyFox]

I de-pinned the pink wire on the 4-pin connector on the negative terminal.. good results so far, did this on my lunch break today. The truck was running 11.5-12.3v and now it is a constant 13.6-13.9 mostly .9 .. instantly noticed all my windows roll up faster and on the way home from work the headlights were brighter lol..

I did notice on the way home it throws codes has anyone else noticed this and is it anything to worry about?

View attachment 396199

Can I ask what scanner you are using?
Some 'cheaper' ones will not show these.
These will be considered 'permanent' codes and will show up in the dealer's/tech's CONSULT program, but they are aware folks have by-passed the VVCS.

 

[bajasam]

Can I ask what scanner you are using?
Some 'cheaper' ones will not show these.
These will be considered 'permanent' codes and will show up in the dealer's/tech's CONSULT program, but they are aware folks have by-passed the VVCS.

not really permanent , you can erase and plug everything back in and nothing will show on scanner.

 

[GreyFox]

not really permanent , you can erase and plug everything back in and nothing will show on scanner.

Actually permanent, until the mod is reversed and the ECM relearns after 'x' amount of start/stop cycles. I do not know which specific code is the 'permanent' code, but at least one of those ARE a permanent code, until it is corrected.

Learned about these 'permanent codes' after making a few attempts with our Subaru's 'battery management system' (ie VVCS). The vehicle tripped the p code, and took several starting cycles and miles to relearn that the mod was reversed back. A bit trickier to bypass the VVCS on the newer vehicles as manufacturers run more thru the ECM

From giggle:
Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Code Standards
PDTCs are the same as regular diagnostic trouble codes (DTC), but they cannot be erased by clearing the DTCs with a scan tool or by disconnecting the vehicle's battery.

LOTS of stuff about these p codes on the net as well.

 

[Crafted]

It's the Carista Android app I'm also able to read my tire sensors live, as an S model I don't have my tire pressure on the dash 😐

I did have to download version 8.0 as the newer doesn't work for some reason

 

[FrankTheFrontier]

It pushes out with a paperclip. no need to buy a tool.

Trying to de-pin currently and I’m scared I will damage the connector. Is there any kind of pin-lock tab that needs to be released first before de-pinning?

 

[GreyFox]

Trying to de-pin currently and I’m scared I will damage the connector. Is there any kind of pin-lock tab that needs to be released first before de-pinning?

You may have to go back a few posts to see a visual, but there is a small white locking tab that just needs to be moved, slightly, to allow the de-pinning. I'll see if I can find a better pic.
A simple safety pin or small paperclip will work to help unlock the pin too.

EDIT:
Here's a diagram to help with the de-pinning process. Still trying to remember or find a pic of the little locking tab. IIRC, the plug is grey, and the locking tab is white, should be self explanatory??

EDIT #2:

https://www.clubfrontier.org/thread...n-variable-voltage-charge-system-vvcs-aka-negative-battery-sensor.380198/page-8

Post #148 shows the disconnected grey plug. Inside the grey plug is a black plug that holds the pins. You will see a barely visible white part on the side of the black plug. You need to ever so slightly slide/pop this piece out. This is a second lock that needs to be moved prior to the actual de-pinning. I can't remember which end I went thru for the depinning, but you will know once you feel the tension .

Good luck.

 

[FrankTheFrontier]

Thanks for the help @GreyFox. I finally got it de-pinned and wrapped the loose wire after fiddling around for about an hour.
For anyone attempting this is the future, I HIGHLY recommend taking off the face-plate of the connector in order to put eyes on the locking tab. Makes the process a whole lot easier, and less chance of marring up your connector.
It’s pretty easy to take off the face-plate plate on the connector: just slip a very small flathead screwdriver through the open side of the connector body. Gently pry outwards on the left and right edge of this open side, one at a time. You’ll see the black-colored face plate start to separate from the rest of the connector body. Warning: connector face will likely “spring” out with a little bit of force (and disappear under something in your garage lol)
Good luck!