[bajasam]

If it’s the same as my ‘21, and I’m betting it is, it’s got the current sensor on the ground cable just like Gen 2’s. I just unplugged mine on both my trucks.

Even my 2014 Hyundia Sonata VVc looks identical to what was on my frontier, I think its pretty much a common system for all manufactuer's now.

 

[GreyFox]

That may be the good reason to cut a wire or de-pin a terminal, to get full capacity out of the alternator. It may be that the alternator is running at a reduced level as a default because the sensor the computer is looking for is completely missing.

Exactly my theory. Now, just need to know which wire to de-pin?? Anyone...Bueller??

 

[Snakebait]

I unplugged mine and thought my gas mileage went down after a 50 mile drive. May be a coincidence. I drove same route i always drive then filled up gas tank and thought i got 12 miles per gallon. 40 miles was freeway. 😳 Not possible for mpg to go down like that from unplugging vvc at ground cable. That same 50 miles i have gotten 18-19 mpg ???l😳😀.

 

[bajasam]

I'm am not sure if this "unplug" effects the battery saver feature of the vehicle that feature is somewhat tied to the condition of the battery???

First I've heard of this, Fuse #19 in the cabin fusebox has a short term storage switch on it that the dealer removes when he recieves the vehicle into stock, it eliminates most things in the BCM to eliminate dead batteries during shipment. With the amount of Frontiers that suffer from ignition off battery drain issues I read on this forum including myself, I would imagine there is no sensor in the system that accomplishes this battery saving feature other than switching off the interior cab light.

 

[PoMans4x4]

I unplugged mine and thought my gas mileage went down after a 50 mile drive. May be a coincidence. I drove same route i always drive then filled up gas tank and thought i got 12 miles per gallon. 40 miles was freeway. 😳 Not possible for mpg to go down like that from unplugging vvc at ground cable. That same 50 miles i have gotten 18-19 mpg ???l😳😀.

The lie-o-meter on my 2022 rarely budges off "23.9 mpg average" fuel economy with my consistent highway usage (always ~21mpg when I calc it by hand) I gotta unplug this variable volt-O-later system and see if things change. If it wasn't 20degF out there right now I'd do it..

 

[GreyFox]

Even my 2014 Hyundia Sonata VVc looks identical to what was on my frontier, I think its pretty much a common system for all manufactuer's now.

Same with the Hondas, however their setup has not given any electrical gremlins or issues as of yet. ??

Just need that EXACT pin location/number/color for the 3gen Frontier. I would be willing to be the guinea pig on this.

 

[GreyFox]

@Skibane had a good idea of locating a possible area for the de-pin:
2020 Frontier Battery / Charging / VVCS
Post #7 has picture

I attempted to locate and de-pin by process of elimination:

Below pic is rotated 90 degrees:

Front of connection slides out to reveal the front of pins and the little lock under them:

So it may be hard to see, but the top of the connection has a clip/lock that seems to lift ?? I tried to use a pin(picture) to popthe little locking tab in front, but the pin still wouldn't move. Not sure if that top tab/lock needs to be opened more? It was cold out and I hardly had time during my lunch break to get any farther. I didn't want to risk breaking the connector.

Anyone know a better way to de-pin? Once I am able to de-pin, I plan to go through each wire until I see which one is the correct pin/wire color.

@Skibane, you still around? You seemed to have a great grasp of this VVCS and the actual wire to de-pin?? Care to share any additional info or tips??

 

[bajasam]

Pretty sure he was dealing with a Gen 2. Maybe get a few of you 3rd gen guys go together and buy a service manual if you can't swing the 200 bucks by yourself.

 

[CanyonRoamer]

@Skibane had a good idea of locating a possible area for the de-pin:
2020 Frontier Battery / Charging / VVCS
Post #7 has picture

I attempted to locate and de-pin by process of elimination:
View attachment 361837

View attachment 361838

Below pic is rotated 90 degrees:
View attachment 361839

View attachment 361840


Front of connection slides out to reveal the front of pins and the little lock under them:
View attachment 361841

View attachment 361842


So it may be hard to see, but the top of the connection has a clip/lock that seems to lift ?? I tried to use a pin(picture) to popthe little locking tab in front, but the pin still wouldn't move. Not sure if that top tab/lock needs to be opened more? It was cold out and I hardly had time during my lunch break to get any farther. I didn't want to risk breaking the connector.
View attachment 361843


Anyone know a better way to de-pin? Once I am able to de-pin, I plan to go through each wire until I see which one is the correct pin/wire color.

@Skibane, you still around? You seemed to have a great grasp of this VVCS and the actual wire to de-pin?? Care to share any additional info or tips??

I still can't wrap my head around any of this, but I have a silly question. Why try to find the cable at the IPDM when you can just cut the wire at the terminal? If the goal is to prevent the VVCS signal to reach the alternator, isn't it easier to cut or depin at the negative terminal?

 

[GreyFox]

I still can't wrap my head around any of this, but I have a silly question. Why try to find the cable at the IPDM when you can just cut the wire at the terminal? If the goal is to prevent the VVCS signal to reach the alternator, isn't it easier to cut or depin at the negative terminal?

Just for a cleaner way of disconnecting vs. just snipping and re-soldering if need be later on.
Has anyone received a service manual for xmas yet and can confirm which wire IS the correct color/location wire??

 

[CanyonRoamer]

Just for a cleaner way of disconnecting vs. just snipping and re-soldering if need be later on.
Has anyone received a service manual for xmas yet and can confirm which wire IS the correct color/location wire??

Gotcha. The color at the IPDM? I tried to find that connector but the service manual isn't very easy to navigate (really it's user error not knowing how to read a wiring diagram haha).

The wire colors at the negative terminal are different on a 2020 however, than from the 2022 I posted. What is consistent is the location, regardless of the wire color, the current sensor seems to be on pin 4. These are from a 2020 at the terminal:

 

[GreyFox]

Gotcha. The color at the IPDM? I tried to find that connector but the service manual isn't very easy to navigate (really it's user error not knowing how to read a wiring diagram haha).

The wire colors at the negative terminal are different on a 2020 however, than from the 2022 I posted. What is consistent is the location, regardless of the wire color, the current sensor seems to be on pin 4. These are from a 2020 at the terminal:

View attachment 363438

Appreciate the diagram. I think I have a copy of the same from a different post on the VVCS for the the 2nd gen. Problem I was also having was the actual "de-pinning" part. 🤷‍♂️
I have used paperclips and safety pins to de-pin plugs before, but it looks that some of these newer plugs have a different way of locking the pins in?? I tried various ways including attempting to take apart the actual plastic plug to get a better idea if how it's locked in...but I didn't want to damage/mare the plug to much while trying to figure it out. It is almost like the plug has a secondary plastic clip in there to keep the pins from unlocking?? Usually its just a little tab like zip ties have and all you have to do is press the little locking tab to release the pin, but not so in this case I guess??

The unplugging of the sensor from the negative terminal seems to be working very well thus far. No issues and I get a steady 13.7-13.9 volts while the vehicle is running. Just thought "MAYBE" if I disconnected further down the line, I would maybe get more of a 14.0-14.5 consistent charge?? Don't get me wrong, 13.8 is a good charge, just was wondering if there was a reason why it wasn't reaching the 14.0 realm??

Maybe someone with more knowledge in this area could add to the conversation??
I know @Skibane seemed very knowledgeable on this system on the 2nd gen, but I haven't seen him here in a while??

 

[CanyonRoamer]

Appreciate the diagram. I think I have a copy of the same from a different post on the VVCS for the the 2nd gen. Problem I was also having was the actual "de-pinning" part. 🤷‍♂️
I have used paperclips and safety pins to de-pin plugs before, but it looks that some of these newer plugs have a different way of locking the pins in?? I tried various ways including attempting to take apart the actual plastic plug to get a better idea if how it's locked in...but I didn't want to damage/mare the plug to much while trying to figure it out. It is almost like the plug has a secondary plastic clip in there to keep the pins from unlocking?? Usually its just a little tab like zip ties have and all you have to do is press the little locking tab to release the pin, but not so in this case I guess??

The unplugging of the sensor from the negative terminal seems to be working very well thus far. No issues and I get a steady 13.7-13.9 volts while the vehicle is running. Just thought "MAYBE" if I disconnected further down the line, I would maybe get more of a 14.0-14.5 consistent charge?? Don't get me wrong, 13.8 is a good charge, just was wondering if there was a reason why it wasn't reaching the 14.0 realm??

Maybe someone with more knowledge in this area could add to the conversation??
I know @Skibane seemed very knowledgeable on this system on the 2nd gen, but I haven't seen him here in a while??

The plug on the Gen 2s is different, it's a 3 pin connector vs 4. I'll post them here in one post to not have them all over the place. This is the connector at the negative terminal:

For a 2019

For a 2020

For a 2022

I was wondering about the temperature sensor, if important to keep, and it looks like it's looking for certain impedance as that changes based on the temp.

There's a bunch of DTCs listed that go back to the sensor being disconnected, so I'm curious, I'm assuming no CEL light comes on, but do you have a reader to see if any DTCs show there? My truck is still in the shop or I'd check myself.

For the removal of the pin, I'll have to mess with it myself when I get the truck, but the service manual isn't of much help because it just says to use their special tools. Perhaps this illustration helps?

 

[GreyFox]

The plug on the Gen 2s is different, it's a 3 pin connector vs 4. I'll post them here in one post to not have them all over the place. This is the connector at the negative terminal:

For a 2019
View attachment 363443



For a 2020
View attachment 363444



For a 2022
View attachment 363445



I was wondering about the temperature sensor, if important to keep, and it looks like it's looking for certain impedance as that changes based on the temp.
View attachment 363446



There's a bunch of DTCs listed that go back to the sensor being disconnected, so I'm curious, I'm assuming no CEL light comes on, but do you have a reader to see if any DTCs show there? My truck is still in the shop or I'd check myself.

For the removal of the pin, I'll have to mess with it myself when I get the truck, but the service manual isn't of much help because it just says to use their special tools. Perhaps this illustration helps?
View attachment 363449

I have been VVCS disconnected from the negative terminal since November without any issues or codes thrown. Battery shows usually 12.2-12.4 (depending on ambient temp) prior to engine start up and the volt meter is shows constant charging without any dipping.

The IPDM wire for the VVCS is supposedly the only one to "technically" disconnect, but completely disconnecting the sensor at the negative terminal disconnects the the power, temp, ground, and current sensor at one shot...so the battery temp is not getting a reading. There are a few other posts around here regarding the VVCS disconnect along with only a couple YT out there with guys doing the disconnect on other Nissan vehicles with similar set-ups.

The pin disconnecting diagrams are good for the folks that are not familiar, but I'm somewhat familiar with those two versions, but like I stated, the plug itself seems a bit different ??

Again, most vehicle alternators at full strength should be 14.5v. At least that's how I remember most to be. I'm getting about 13.8 with accessories on...still good, but would like to know if I can squeeze more out or if I'm just chasing something that is no longer the "norm"??

I am no automotive tech or play one on Tv, but I do have some experience with battery changing and alternators in the past. Just trying to verify is all

 

[GreyFox]

Again...lots of 2nd gen info regarding the VVCS, just trying to iron out the info and discrepancies for the 3rd gen.


Battery Voltage at idle?

2020 Frontier Battery / Charging / VVCS


Someone mentioned disconnecting the one wire from the alternator itself...
This may be even easier than putzing with pins in the fuse box. Should only be one thin VVCS wire to the alternator?? When the weather gets warmer and cleaner out, I'll have to investigate this unless someone else beats me to it here

 

[CanyonRoamer]

Again...lots of 2nd gen info regarding the VVCS, just trying to iron out the info and discrepancies for the 3rd gen.


Battery Voltage at idle?

2020 Frontier Battery / Charging / VVCS


Someone mentioned disconnecting the one wire from the alternator itself...
This may be even easier than putzing with pins in the fuse box. Should only be one thin VVCS wire to the alternator?? When the weather gets warmer and cleaner out, I'll have to investigate this unless someone else beats me to it here

I have been wanted a dual battery set up for some time, and while I know the isolators are fairly inexpensive, I have been seriously considering a DC to DC charger which significantly adds to the cost, but would directly fix the charger problem. They specifically recommend DC to DC chargers in general to any vehicle with a smart alternator to solve charging issues. No need to cut or unplug anything with such a set up.

 

[CanyonRoamer]

Again...lots of 2nd gen info regarding the VVCS, just trying to iron out the info and discrepancies for the 3rd gen.


Battery Voltage at idle?

2020 Frontier Battery / Charging / VVCS


Someone mentioned disconnecting the one wire from the alternator itself...
This may be even easier than putzing with pins in the fuse box. Should only be one thin VVCS wire to the alternator?? When the weather gets warmer and cleaner out, I'll have to investigate this unless someone else beats me to it here

I would look back at my wiring diagram for the charging system on the 3rd gen, because that plug you pulled out doesn't look right. This is what I found...

So this is the IPDM layout for a 3rd gen, specifically a 2022.

The plug you pulled out looks to be E122. I rotated the image to match your photo, but this is the engine layout I posted earlier with E122 highlighted...

Here are the connector specs along with the wire colors that match your photo, none of them seem to be related to the battery? Definitely not yellow.

So I looked up what @Skibane posted to see if I could cross reference and find the IPDM layout of a 2019. Rotated to match his photo and conveniently that connector is also E122...

The wires for that E122 is as follows:

So that yellow is ALT-C CONT and went looking for it on the 3rd gen an didn't have any luck. So I looked up the charging system of a gen 2...

So here you can clearly see that the IPDM in the system, but isn't on the 3rd gen.

Here's the charging system of a 3rd gen again just to compare these next to each other. If you don't want to depin or cut at the terminal, the IPDM isn't it.

 

[idlafie]

.........No issues and I get a steady 13.7-13.9 volts while the vehicle is running. Just thought "MAYBE" if I disconnected further down the line, I would maybe get more of a 14.0-14.5 consistent charge?? Don't get me wrong, 13.8 is a good charge, just was wondering if there was a reason why it wasn't reaching the 14.0 realm??

Maybe someone with more knowledge in this area could add to the conversation??

Current being generated by the alternator is controlled by the alternator's internal voltage regulator. From years of dealing with cars, we have gotten used to seeing 14.0 to 14.5 volts being generated by the alternator, HOWEVER it is the manufacturer that sets the regulator's voltage point. Remember, an alternator is made of a cooper stater & rotor which generates current to charge the battery & run all the vehicle's electronics as the vehicle runs. Perhaps Nissan decided to use less winding in the cooper stater to save a few pennies in the manufacturing process. Some bean counter at Nissan probably decided that the battery can still charge as well at 13.7-13.9 volts as it does compared to 14.0-14.5 volts. Knowing Nissan, it wouldn't surprise me....

But that's just my opinion...your's may vary.

 

[JVRaley]

Current being generated by the alternator is controlled by the alternator's internal voltage regulator. From years of dealing with cars, we have gotten used to seeing 14.0 to 14.5 volts being generated by the alternator, HOWEVER it is the manufacturer that sets the regulator's voltage point. Remember, an alternator is made of a cooper stater & rotor which generates current to charge the battery & run all the vehicle's electronics as the vehicle runs. Perhaps Nissan decided to use less winding in the cooper stater to save a few pennies in the manufacturing process. Some bean counter at Nissan probably decided that the battery can still charge as well at 13.7-13.9 volts as it does compared to 14.0-14.5 volts. Knowing Nissan, it wouldn't surprise me....

But that's just my opinion...your's may vary.

Except that our alternators are capable of 14.4v, they just don’t do it with the halo sensor disconnected.

 

[GreyFox]

Current being generated by the alternator is controlled by the alternator's internal voltage regulator. From years of dealing with cars, we have gotten used to seeing 14.0 to 14.5 volts being generated by the alternator, HOWEVER it is the manufacturer that sets the regulator's voltage point. Remember, an alternator is made of a cooper stater & rotor which generates current to charge the battery & run all the vehicle's electronics as the vehicle runs. Perhaps Nissan decided to use less winding in the cooper stater to save a few pennies in the manufacturing process. Some bean counter at Nissan probably decided that the battery can still charge as well at 13.7-13.9 volts as it does compared to 14.0-14.5 volts. Knowing Nissan, it wouldn't surprise me....

Except that our alternators are capable of 14.4v, they just don’t do it with the halo sensor disconnected.

Both of these statements are EXACTLY what I'm trying to find out. While I agree alternators "normally" are capable of reaching 14.4v, I have to wonder if the alternator has been "dummied" down to save a few cents?? I have not contacted any dealerships/parts tech in regards to the specs of an OEM alternator. I was hoping a member here, who may be a an actual tech for Nissan, would chime in??
Again, the disconnecting of the sensor at the negative post is working great thus far. Been checking the voltage of the battery after every ride for the past week or so, and get a battery (only) voltage of 12.6-12.8. So the battery IS getting sufficient charge. It's just my OCD and curiosity about why, how, and where this alternator is STILL dummied down even with the sensor unplugged?