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the manual tranny doesnt require an external cooler...if you are getting a gurgiling nosie coming from the heater core area that is usually a sign of you having air within the cooling system and it needs to be removed...
 
PEACE OF MIND!! I just got my 05 Fronty back from the dealership, it was in for the timing chain issue (JUST made it under warranty!) as well as emission control valve flappy thingy...had them do the trans-radiator by-pass as well. They put in a second cooler on top of the factory one..No worries now, looks like a clean job, thanks to Lynnes Nissan West of Stanhope, NJ....
:noworries:
 
the manual tranny doesnt require an external cooler...if you are getting a gurgiling nosie coming from the heater core area that is usually a sign of you having air within the cooling system and it needs to be removed...
Can someone describe this a little better. When exaclty it happens and such?

When I shut my truck off, usually within say 20 seconds I hear a strange noise from behind the dash that sounds similar to a gurgle noise. It's done it since I bought the truck (18 months ago w/ 31k miles). I'm now at 41k miles, no signs of any issues though.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Can someone describe this a little better. When exaclty it happens and such?

When I shut my truck off, usually within say 20 seconds I hear a strange noise from behind the dash that sounds similar to a gurgle noise. It's done it since I bought the truck (18 months ago w/ 31k miles). I'm now at 41k miles, no signs of any issues though.
Best description I can give when there is air in the coolant system is that it sounds like someone is pouring a glass of water inside your upper glovebox.

Or like there is one of those waterfall fountains they sell for $20 in there.
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
I took mine in for this problem. They are replacing my radiator and transmission. Does anyone know if I need to do a by pass with the new hardware?
In theory no. However, I don't 100% know the parts used now are put together in a different fashion either.

Mine makes a strange noise, but only after I shut the engine off completely. When did yours make this noise?
If you have an air bubble in the coolant system or are low on coolant, the noise (running water in the glove box) will occur while running at an idle.
 
I was just at the Nissan Dealership yesterday getting a new drive shaft installed due to bad u joints under warrenty and while I was there they went ahead and did the by pass for me. My truck already has a external cooler that comes with the towing package so all they had to do was switch some lines around and flush out the rest of the transmission fluid that was in the internal cooler inside the radiator. I'm glad I have a Great Nissan Dealership close. One less thing I have to worry about!
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
hi,new to`site took my radiator cap off looks the same as picture also have the vibration and rumble sound.
Well, if still under warranty, that's a good thing. If out of warranty, it could be expensive.

Minimum would be a replacement radiator and transmission flush and coolant system flush.

My transmission is acting funny, hoping to get failure before end of warranty.
 


Here's a picture of the transmission/radiator bypass. My truck already had an external cooler that comes with the towing package, so the guys at Nissan just moved a few hoses around and flushed the remaining transmission fluid out of my radiator. Hope the picture helps.
 
Did the bypass on my 07 Pathfinder. If anyone is interested, you can do the bypass and install a temp sensor all in one. All I did was unhook the hoses from the radiator cooler, cut some of the slack and joined them together with a 3/8 tee and barbed hose connections (about $10 at your local hardware store). I installed my trans temp sensor in the top of the tee. Since this line is the intake to the external cooler, it should be the hottest place to measure the temp and give the most accurate reading. Ive read where some people without external coolers are doing the bypass and not installing a secondary cooler. I cant help but believe that is a terrible idea! Anyways, if you have an external cooler, this is a very easy fix and cheap insurance. Just remove the plastic piece under the bumper followed by the roll pan (about 12 or so 10 mm bolts) and its all right there easy to access. The temp gauge is a little more in depth as it involves running wires and installing the gauge inside the truck.....so if you arent to comfortable in doing that, have someone install it. I am also installing a 10 inch cooling fan on my trans cooler that I can turn on and off from the cab. Everyday driving shouldnt require it, but if I get in a lot of stop/go traffic or am towing, I will flip it on. Just some added insurance for less than $50. I figure all this adds up to waaaaaay less than a new transmission. Fan, gauge, and all the parts for the tee probably added up to around $150. I had to buy a lot of wire and connectors though because I didnt have any laying around.

**For anyone considering this.....learn from my mistakes. You have to ground the sending unit because obviously its not grounded in this method. You MUST ground it under the part where the sending unit screws into the tee or adapter. If you ground it where the sensor hooks up, it will ground your connection to the gauge and it will show 250 degrees at all times. Apparently there is some sort of insulator between the two. Hope that makes sense.
 

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It seems that all these failures are on 05s. Have they changed the design in later years or is this something to look forward to?
 
FWIW, I've seen an autometer gauge that has a configurable trigger-wire, so you can automatically turn on a fan/light/etc. when you reach a certain temperature.

Auto Meter

I've been considering adding a trans temp. gauge - not because I really need it, but because the blank in the 4x2 is just begging to have a gauge in its place.
 
thank god that my radiator developed a minor leak and was replaced prior to anything like this happening. GL, hope the trans is ok... seems like most have made out ok with a couple flushes.
 
It seems that all these failures are on 05s. Have they changed the design in later years or is this something to look forward to?
I believe the 05's and the 06's were the only years effected.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
It's crappy to think that > 50K is "higher miles." I remember a time when I had nothing with less than 100K, miles and if I bought < 150K miles, I felt like I was getting a "low" mileage vehicle.

It almost seems like the "better" vehicles get, the "worse" they are.
 
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