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Painting my topper: AKA Project Hindsight

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3.9K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  California Gator  
#1 · (Edited)
Part 1:
Funds and time limited what I could do for the first year, so the time I did have I took it wheeling to get to know it and figure out what I wanted to do first. Due to the limited funds and time, it gave me a chance to really search for a camper shell. I wanted an aluminum one to keep the weight down, and I finally scored a used one on Craigslist about 1.5 hours from the house. It was worth the drive to save about $1500 - $2000 when compared to a new one.

Before paint:
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The wife said I couldn’t leave it white, so I had to paint it. Now, I’ve watched some Robby Leyton on the ‘ol YouTube, and figured I’d have a go. I bought primer and aerosol cans of paint with the same paint code as my truck from automotivetouchup.com and started prepping while I waited for it to arrive.

First I sanded it with some 100 grit. I also used a plastic scraper to clean out some of the sealant at every seam. During the rainy season I noticed that it was leaking; I figured I’d reseal it after painting.

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After sanding I rinsed it off, let it dry, hit it with a tack cloth a couple times, then taped the seams. Then I set up a paint booth in the front of the house.

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I didn’t get a shot of it after it was primed, but I used black automotive primer, this was the start of my learning curve. I did a couple coats and sanded in between, but it was still a little rough. I think on the final coat I wet sanded it with like 600 or 800 grip paper. It was still not totally smooth but I decided to just move forward to paint.

And that was learning curve number 2.

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In the above photo you can see it look kind of dull. Well the paint was pilling (so says the google). It seemed that micro-paint droplets were bouncing off the shell and making like a dust that I could wipe off. UGH! After playing around with it more (and wetsanding it with 800grit), I figured out that I needed to move just a little slower, hold the nozzle a little closer, and put more paint on. It was surprising how well the paint stuck and didn’t drip as I was putting on somewhat heavy coats. But all was not well. The paint was certainly not smooth, I had some drips, and every so often the nozzle would splatter or drip from the aerosol.

Yeah, I know…”Why’d you use aerosol cans?” Well, I don’t have a compressor and I thought it would be easy to just use rattle cans. (Hindsight)

After several coats, it was on to the clear coat. I did several coats of that and it made it look a little better, but certainly not close to OEM…or even Maaco as you can see.

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The camera actually pulls out much more imperfections. It doesn’t look that bad in person. Well, at least my wife says so. And that’s what really mattered.

After the paint and removing the tape, I went to every seam (except the one down the middle of the roof) and used DAP Polyurethan Commercial Sealant (just a single tube) to seal the seams. (Note: we’ve since gotten some rain and its dry inside). If you ever get one of these, be sure to put a dab of some kind of sealant at each end of the hurricane hinge. My truck sits on a slant in my driveway and it was just enough where rain ran down the hinge and into the truck (just a little, though). I added some at each and now there’s no leaks.

Just before I installed it on my truck, we had a bit of wind and my paint booth decided that it wanted a better view of the neighborhood.

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Believe it or not, it seems to have lifted directly up and off and didn’t touch the camper. That leg hanging down had some 550 cord on it and it even got caught under a 4x4 that was holding up the shell. I think that saved it from bumping the shell. It didn’t even break our fiber optic line to the house.

Before putting on the cap, I removed the whale tale

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I bought this Replacement Cap replacement off Amazon. It needed a little modification to wrap around the emblem a bit better. And it doesn’t sit flush due to the rivnuts. I didn’t document it because I figure you all are smart and capable enough to figure out how to get it to work.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Part 2

Then, to be like @TWX, I went to a wrecking yard and pulled a portion of the rear light harness to make a scab that goes in between two of the connectors and allowed me to pull the brake light without having to cut the OEM harness.

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I put it in some loom tube before installing. The above goes at the connector at the left side of the next photo (if I remember correctly).

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I added on some more wire, fed that up behind the driver’s side brake light, and then drilled a hole into the bed. I then ran that up to the brake like. I reused/reinstalled the original brake light.

The finished product at Fiesta Island as we took the dog out for a stroll.
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So, why is it called “Project Hindsight” you ask. Well, I spent around $600 on paint and more money on tape and sand paper and spent hours taping, prepping, and painting. The results were OK.

In hindsight I’d probably do the sanding, prep work, and tape, then take it to Maaco (or similar inexpensive shop) and have them paint and clear coat it. It probably would look a little better without costing much more. My writeup above does not adequately capture the frustration that I had painting it. Seriously...lots of frustration. And it seems to capture pollen and dust really well now, too. In hindsight, I'd pay.

I am NOT Robby Leyton.

edited to change Bobby to Robby. Thanks for the reminder @Steebo46&2
 
#3 ·
No Robby, Yeah but you put your work into to it, learned along the way, and got a product. It looks good and now you know you can accomplish a task like that with a driveway, a flying pop up tent, and some plastic sheet walls for a paint booth. Too cool man. You have a another story now.

You inspired me to repaint my motorcycle tank now.

Robby Layton is awesome but is also super super nit picky lol

Don't sweat the small stuff. Rock it like you mean it and enjoy it!
 
#5 ·
What's the weight savings between aluminum vs fiberglass?

I love my ARE fiberglass topper, but I sure do admire the added utility of this style of topper...particularly how the back door is vertical - creating a larger volume and cargo length capacity above the tailgate. Kudos!
 
#7 ·
I think I read that the aluminum topper is like 80lbs.
Then I've heard that the fiberglass are at least 200 lbs.
as I said, this 50 year old guy in decent to mediocre shape (depending on the day) can lift it pretty easily. To reposition it, I laid on my back and used my legs to lift it. I didn't want to grab an edge and slide it for fear of pulling it out of square.

When we put it on my truck, I grabbed the forward edge, and my wife and 16y.o. son each grabbed a corner by the back door. Even she commented how light it was (while struggling).

Yeah, my requirements were
  • Light weight (aluminum)
  • 2 side doors or opening windows (windoors)
  • Back opening had to be a vertical hatch to keep the tailgate.
  • Standard height Ok, but I think this one is 3" higher than cab height, which really makes a difference. 6" high would be too high.
Options:
  • Windows optional (in hindsight I'm glad I don't have any)
  • Color didn't matter
  • Needed to be in decent shape
 
#6 ·
Holy cow, the weight difference between aluminum and fiberglass is amazing. I could take off my full size aluminum topper on my old truck but taking the fiberglass top off my two wrangler sucks and takes two people. And thats a tiny two door wrangler top.

Had a fiberglass on my s10 stepside and it took two people to take off also. They weigh at least double an aluminum top weighs