How about publishing the report so we can see it too? As far as I know, the only place in a modern engine copper would be coming from, would be bearing material, so that may be a cause for concern.

 

I would send an oil analysis to Blackstone's lab to see what they say.

 

Blackstone is really cashing in on Paranoia and wanna-be engineers...



That isn't a good sign, I would have a dealer look at it. Just get some miles on the new filter and discuss it with the dealership... You will need to remind them to look for shavings.

Bring the filter media with as well. Any shop worth a damn will look at it on the spot.

I'm hesitant to say those are residual break-in flakes at this point.

 

I would have a dealer look at it.

They'll just keep saying it's normal and hope the truck makes it past warranty so they don't have to cover anything. It's what dealers do is run interference for the manufacturer... it's probably in their dealer contract.

It would be better to get third party analysis first and go from there

It would also be a good idea to put some magnets on the outside of the oil filter to make sure this stuff is trapped inside the filter and remove when the filter is changed.

By 60k miles it stopped making metal.

It was finally broken in by then

 

I was thinking it would be helpful as they might say something like, "unusual amount of copper". Would be good to compare sample with the median to see if yours is problematic. I never cut open a filter before, so wouldn't know.

 

Not going after you personally.

 

hasnt there been a dozen or so 2022's spinning rod or crank bearings on this forum lately?? i think nissan replaced all their motors under warranty.

 

No. Some 2020 is the closest to a trend and was not a dozen.

 

Hopefully the Blackstone report uploads

 

The Blackstone report was Nissan 0w20 and Nissan filter from Z1. It is currently on its second batch of Valvoline 0W20 Restore and Protect with a Purolator filter. I was not impressed with the Nissan filter, paper end caps and the anti-drainback valve was regular rubber that was very stiff for no more miles than was on it.

 

How did you cut it? I’ve never cut open an oil filter, but I don’t know of too many metal cutting techniques that don’t deposit metal flakes all over the place, or at least a few. Even your purpose built oil filter cutters with a small cutting wheel will shoot off a few flakes. Maybe something to consider.

 

I used this cutter and the flakes were only visible after I cut the paper element off, they were down in the folds. I'm over 60 years old and I've built several engines in my lifetime, no failures, but these are the first filters I've ever cut open so my knowledge is limited in that regard.

 

Had some IRN BRU for the first time when visiting my homeland Scotland.

 

I've yet to visit, would love to someday, I have Scottish, Irish and English ancestry including William the Conqueror among my mutt hodgepodge of DNA, but we are going this Sunday afternoon to the Maryland RennFest and I have my complete kilt kit including ale mug and leather belt strap carrier, plus leather wrist bracers. My daughters into it now as well and we are going with her to the NC RennFest on 4Oct, haven't seen her since she moved to Charlotte in July.
Wow, that thread sure went hard right turn quickly LOL.

 

Even though my dna is more Irish 🇮🇪 than Scottish 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 I love the stuff a lot more than Guinness 😁

 

This seems sort of like getting a bad PSA test when you're in your 70s. It might be concerning but does it make sense to worry since you aren't going to do anything? Nissan isn't going to care so OP has to decide if he's OK with the power train warranty or if he wants to try his luck with a different vehicle.

 

The BRU was a cure after pub crawling my cousin’s turned me on to it, I was born in Glasgow my family immigrated to USA when I was 8 months. Yeah guess I hijacked the thread.

Cheers!

 

I guess I was hoping for “a few flakes are still normal at 12,000 miles” but that doesn’t seem to be the consensus. It will go from just weekend duty to daily so I can rack up some miles and do another oil analysis. Then maybe I’ll have some evidence when I talk to Nissan. They replaced a bad engine for us in ‘09 and that went great.

 

IMO I would not worry too much about it. Always going to be a flake or two in the filter media. When you see lots than worry. But keep your pics and check the new filter soon. Also when draining the oil from the oil pan, try to use a fine media to trap anything as the oil passes through to the waste pan.

 

I would not worry about it, drive and enjoy your truck.

 

As an aircraft mechanic I've cut many filters open for inspection! A few flat little shinier specs like in your pics are fine. Taking an oil sample is the only way to know what's really happening in there! Any metal specs you see in the filter media that are dark, chunky, like broken pieces or specs, are the bad ones. The best way to find what's in your filter is to take a jar and a little solvent, or a little gasoline could be used, and rinse the filter media to wash anything stuck to the media to the bottom of the container for inspection. You'll be surprised at what's really stuck to the filter media! In my opinion what I see in your pictures, is perfectly normal! My 2000 Frontier transfer case oil always looked like metallic burgundy paint when drained. That started at the first drain and fill. By 60k miles it stopped making metal. 5Yr/60k mile warranty was never needed. It was going perfect at 169k miles when traded in!

 

As far as the dealer "running interference"?Find another dealer! Im able to do just that! Walser in Burnsville MN is useless in so many ways! Luther in Inver Grove has treated me great! And did readily replace the motor in my 2010 Altima. A slight knock at 42k miles they did some looking it over, some disassembly, found a number of issues! As long as you have receipts and all maintenance records, not a single issue! Four Nissans, I only go to the dealer for warranty issues! Otherwise I do all my maintenance.

 

Are you positive that the flakes are not from cutting the metal filter canister?

 

Sounds about right. His engine is running just fine, should be good for another 300k. By the time his OCD wears out he will have spent hundreds of dollars on junk science.

 

Thanks, for the replies and info. The flakes were not magnetic, so they didn't come from the filter housings. They appear to be aluminum, so I guess just flakes off the inside somewhere. When I get another analysis I'll post on here.

 

If given the choice, would you rather run an oil filter or a magnet? I'd think the filter would prove superior since it also 'catches' nonmagnetic material.
Yes, you can do both!

 

My new 3.8 had metal flakes when changed at 1k then 6k miles later. I run 5w30 now as I drive alot for delivery and trips. Truck is at 59k however engine has 7k. Put 2k to 3k a month.

 

Truck has 59k and engine has 7k. Was the engine replaced?

 

The "junk science" would be?