AC condensers rarely go bad unless contamination from a faulty AC compressor gets stuck in them; and parallel flow condensers like these cannot be properly backflushed (too many pathways).

Of course condensers can be damaged by stones, a collision, or air flow blocked by insects and debris.

Condition of the fan clutch, fan, and radiator shrouds are also important.

The only "test" is to set up AC service gauges and read AC high and low pressures at about 2000 rpm; if the high side reading drops like a stone when you mist the AC condenser with water (and vent temperatures drop), the condenser is not getting enough air flow or doing its job thoroughly.

For the record: in the last two months, I've had to replace the fan clutches in BOTH my 1998 Frontier and 2004 Frontier, these things do go bad, especially in our Arizona heat.

 

I agree with @Cusser, A/C condenser might be one of the items the least to go bad unless it has a leak. You can test if its not getting enough cooling from the fan by soaking it with water through a garden hose and see if that improves cooling inside cabin.

 

But wouldn't that improve the efficiency of any condenser, whether the condenser is good or bad ?

 

I will try some of those water-on-condenser tests when I get my truck back.
What temperature difference should I be getting AT IDLE between ambient and vent-temperature. I am getting 13F now. It was 20F before the Nissan Dealer just now replaced the compressor. (They made it worse.) For example, two days ago, ambient was 88F and vent was 75F AT IDLE (with the 'new' compressor).

 

What temperature difference should I be getting AT IDLE between ambient and vent-temperature. I am getting 13F now. It was 20F before the Nissan Dealer just now replaced the compressor. (They made it worse.) For example, two days ago, ambient was 88F and vent was 75F AT IDLE (with the 'new' compressor).

A 13F drop is TERRIBLE !!!!

I'm in Arizona, and have 1998 and 2004 4-cylinder Frontiers, and I would say I get 40-50F temperature drop when running. Expect idle AC performance to be less. Your truck should take about 1.5 lbs (24 oz.) R134a, there should be a sticker under the hood.

Was there damage to the old condenser? Does either AC line at the firewall feel cold after running a few minutes? Does the high pressure line after the condenser feel hot? Performance is typically evaluated at about 2000 rpm, with both low side and high side refrigerant pressures, that's where I'd start.

But first I'd take back to the dealer and complain. You paid for a fix, and they did not provide a fix. If no satisfaction, dispute the charge on your credit card. Perhaps the system is developing cold AC, but your heater is blending heat with it; sounds like the dealer did a piss-poor or non-existent performance check after adding the refrigerant with their machine.

 

Hold on - I just looked and reviewed your earlier posts. On Aug. 3 you were asking about a fan clutch for your 2000, was that ever replaced?????

And on Aug. 12 you were asking about an AC compressor for your 2000, was that ever replaced?????

Are you possibly confusing compressor and condenser ????? Tell us everything that was done this past month on this truck.

I'd also find a certified independent ASE mechanic and not go to a dealer.

 

Yes, I was asking about the fan-clutch because AC was working so much better when driving than idling (e.g., 15F difference in idle and 40 difference at 80mph). There may still be a fan-clutch issue. If I was asking about compressors on Aug-12, it was just an additional step in trying to debug my TERRIBLE ambient-minus-vent temp's while idling. Things that were done in about the last month:
1.evaporator burst and was re-done under warranty (not the Nissan dealer).
2.what I already mentioned: Nissan dealer said compressor was bad and replaced it.

If I have anywhere swapped the words compressor and condensor, it was purely a silly mistake as they are very different items of course. Funny thing: The desk-Nissan guy told me: "well they would have to tear out the whole dash to replace your condenser". I was like WHAT -- the condenser is next to the radiator ?!?!??!?

 

I'm not an AC professional, but have considerable AC experience, a must when living in Arizona.

On my 1998 Frontier (270K) I've had to replace a high pressure line with a pinhole and had to remove an AC compressor shim to fix a slippage issue.

On my 2004 Frontier (110K) I've had to replace its compressor, condenser, and drier (and backflush the high pressure line with solvent) to repair it (compressor seized in Gila Bend AZ going to vacation in San Diego, but was only 103F when that happened).

Both deliver GREAT AC performance, and have experienced temperatures up to 119F in the shade !!! Too bad there's very little shade here ! So yes, I have two 4-cylinder Frontiers, and also a 1988 Mazda truck that still R-12, but the AC in the Frontiers is better. So three compact trucks !

 

That's the EXACT fan clutch #2570 that I have in both my Frontiers. Pretty straightforward R&R like in the video. "Walking" the fan/fan clutch out is a little tricky, but you'll be able to squeeze it out.

To me, the toughest part is getting the 10mm wrench in there to loosen/tighten the four nuts that hold the fan/fan clutch to the engine without cutting my hands - so wear gloves. I did make an extra-long wrench and ground the box head smaller for easier access. I have used blue Loctite in the past on the four studs when remounting the fan/fan clutch to the engine but I don't recommend this anymore as it makes removal and install of the fan/fan clutch to the engine tougher, as the nuts won't just spin off.

Look online, one way to diagnose a faulty fan clutch using a section of rolled-up newspaper, an inner roll from a paper towel roll, etc. But be careful doing this - negligence of the spinning fan can be dangerous, do at your own risk.

A decent AC mechanic would've also tested the fan clutch when in for repair....

Copied from earlier:
So new evaporator and compressor within the last month. My thoughts:
(1) I wonder if the expansion valve was replaced along with the new evaporator.
(2) Since Nissan dealer said compressor was bad and replaced it, then the AC performance was so poor, I wonder if the compressor was really bad after all. Anyway, the dealer NEVER should've released the truck to you had they been competent, with that AC performance so poor.
(3) Did dealer say the compressor was bad because of a seal or body leak, or were the pressures way off? Maybe they didn't even say, likely they were - in hindsight - guessing with your money. If the compressor was actually making noise or seized, then ABSOLUTELY the condenser and drier should've been replaced.
(4) Did the shop that replaced the evaporator or dealer even replace the drier when they did their "repairs" ?
(5) Both shops "surely" had AC machines to automatically add correct amount of R134a by weight, but wonder if either or both shops made a mistake on adding refrigeration oil (that's typically an edjamacated guess though).

 

That's the EXACT fan clutch #2570 that I have in both my Frontiers. Pretty straightforward R&R like in the video. "Walking" the fan/fan clutch out is a little tricky, but you'll be able to squeeze it out.

To me, the toughest part is getting the 10mm wrench in there to loosen/tighten the four nuts that hold the fan/fan clutch to the engine without cutting my hands - so wear gloves. I did make an extra-long wrench and ground the box head smaller for easier access. I have used blue Loctite in the past on the four studs when remounting the fan/fan clutch to the engine but I don't recommend this anymore as it makes removal and install of the fan/fan clutch to the engine tougher, as the nuts won't just spin off.

Look online, one way to diagnose a faulty fan clutch using a section of rolled-up newspaper, an inner roll from a paper towel roll, etc. But be careful doing this - negligence of the spinning fan can be dangerous, do at your own risk.

A decent AC mechanic would've also tested the fan clutch when in for repair....

Copied from earlier:
So new evaporator and compressor within the last month. My thoughts:
(1) I wonder if the expansion valve was replaced along with the new evaporator.
(2) Since Nissan dealer said compressor was bad and replaced it, then the AC performance was so poor, I wonder if the compressor was really bad after all. Anyway, the dealer NEVER should've released the truck to you had they been competent, with that AC performance so poor.
(3) Did dealer say the compressor was bad because of a seal or body leak, or were the pressures way off? Maybe they didn't even say, likely they were - in hindsight - guessing with your money. If the compressor was actually making noise or seized, then ABSOLUTELY the condenser and drier should've been replaced.
(4) Did the shop that replaced the evaporator or dealer even replace the drier when they did their "repairs" ?
(5) Both shops "surely" had AC machines to automatically add correct amount of R134a by weight, but wonder if either or both shops made a mistake on adding refrigeration oil (that's typically an edjamacated guess though).

I did replace the fan-clutch today. It did not fix the problem. But, I do appreciate everyone's help on the how's of getting the clutch replaced.

 

Anyone have a youtube video for replacing the condenser and drier, in case I get ambitious to try it.
Looks like the parts will be $233 out-the-door at Oreilly's (this is just the condenser and drier, not the freon).
2000 Nissan Frontier, 2wd, 4cyl.

 

I don't have a video, but I did this on my own 2004, start with Post #27 here. 2004 Frontier King Cab thread