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How's hard is it to replace the alternator in a 2003 3.3 v6?

5.3K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  busemans  
#1 ·
When the coolant hose broke and sprayed everything, it killed the alternator.

How hard is this task? Is it possible to do without jack stands or ramps?
 
#3 ·
ITS EASY! - Just get under there and get it done. Plenty of room and just a few bolts. It's not hard at all. I just got under mine and did it. I upgraded it to the NIssan Quest alt which is a direct replacement since they use the same engine and got me 50% more amps. Its much beefier and slid right in and bolted right up.
Get your socket set out and go to work for 20 minutes and you'll come out the other end a victorious DIY'r and save yourself 200 bucks. Mechanics must have a good laugh when they do piddley jobs like that for a couple hundo.
 
#4 ·
If You're Interested:

 
#6 ·
Just disconnect the negative battery cable first !!!

My Frontiers are 4-cylinder but when I changed the alternator I just needed 14mm and 12mm wrenches. And maybe a smaller size for a nut securing wiring.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
Haven't replaced the alternator yet, but I noticed today that when driving, the brake and battery light both turned off and on repeatedly. They turn off when I step on the brakes and turn on when a take my foot off the brakes. I checked the battery life with a speed charger and it shows the battery is at 95%.

For the past two weeks, I've been driving the car back and forth to work. When I return home, I charge the battery. Usually when I finish the day and get back home and hook it up to the charger, the battery is about 60%. But today, when I put it on the charger, it shows 95% and it only did that once the brake and battery light started disappearing.

So maybe the terminals just need to be changed?

Hmm....
 
#9 ·
Haven't replaced the alternator yet
Hmm....
Set up you voltmeter (0-20 VDC) across the battery terminals when you get home.
1. Have helper start the engine, or try to start the engine, should read 9.6 volts or more while cranking. For this test, better if you can disable the engine from starting if you know how.

2. Start the engine, measure voltage at about 2000 rpm; needs to be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

3. Or stop at Autozone or O'Reilly for free check.

4. All above assumes that the battery cable connections are all clean and tight.
 
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#10 ·
Well I got the old alternator out, but when I align the new one up, the bolts wont go in the holes. I've tried for the past hour and they're not going in. My arm gets tired holding the alternator up with one hand while trying to put the bolt in with the other. Very frustrating. Any suggestions?
 
#11 ·
Hmmm..... Do the bolts go into the alternator while it's outside of the truck? Super double check that it's the correct replacement just to rule that out.

Can you try focusing on one bolt at a time while the alternator is rotated into a comfortable position, then rotate it into place once the first one is started?

Try hanging the alternator roughly in place using a bungee cord or the alternator belt so you can focus on lining up the bolts without holding the alternator?

If it's right replacement it should just be a matter of fussing and cussing.
 
#12 ·
Hmmm..... Do the bolts go into the alternator while it's outside of the truck? Super double check that it's the correct replacement just to rule that out.

Can you try focusing on one bolt at a time while the alternator is rotated into a comfortable position, then rotate it into place once the first one is started?

Try hanging the alternator roughly in place using a bungee cord or the alternator belt so you can focus on lining up the bolts without holding the alternator?

If it's right replacement it should just be a matter of fussing and cussing.
Yeah the bolts go into the alternator. Thanks for the suggestions. Damn thing is heavy holding it with one arm and trying to quickly put the bolt in.