Pretty clean install man good job.

I personally would not recommend installing one on this truck however. Certainly not worth buying one. I suppose having one around already is a bit different though.

 

Pretty clean install man good job.

I personally would not recommend installing one on this truck however. Certainly not worth buying one. I suppose having one around already is a bit different though.

I’ve only had catch cans installed on high performance sports cars but is there a specific reason why you say it’s not recommended on this truck?

 

Whether it does anything beneficial for these engines is to be determined. But at the same time I don't think it should do anything bad to the engine. So if it makes you feel good, as long as it's periodically drained, it should be ok. In the end I see it as "possible" cheap insurance!

 

I was just about convinced to install one on my new 2024 Pro-X but watched another youtube video where the person talked about the catch can baffling/steel wool becoming clogged and adding too much resistance to flow from the engine crankcase to the intake manifold, resulting in pressure buildup in the crankcase and oil dilution. I'm still researching this subject, however, before pulling the trigger and getting one. Scotty Kilmer thinks it is a good idea to install one on GDI engines.

 

Only time will tell for us all. There are so many factors that can impact an engine. Its environment, quality oil, time between oil changes, no load driving, always loaded, idling all day vs highway miles etc. We can try our best but Nissan could have used inferior internals and we all spin a rod lmao... or you try your best for longevity and bam someone totals you. Enjoy the trucks and do what you want. No harm either way i feel.

 

Nah shouldn't hurt anything.

The best thing for valve buildup is letting the engine work. Not necessarily a lead foot or anything but working the RPM range regularly is the best way to keep it at bay. If you featherfoot it all the time you're going to promote buildup.

 

That long thread somewhere about the Camaro guy that was refused warranty coverage due to one of these should give one pause unless removing it before service.

 

Probably just something like BG

 

Ford has figured it out, imhop, as well. Many DI’s over 200k, not many complaints.
Have 75k on my 2.0 Ford, low miles sure, but no issues, loss of power or mileage.
Instead of a catch can I waved a dead chicken over the engine, did just as much.

 

Don't know where this walnut blasting story came from, but it's BS, Chemical cleaning is the only system currently used for preventative maint. No way you can blow ground nut shells into an engines intake trac at 100psi without creating a goooy mess requiring partial engine teardown to clean the mess up. DI has been around for over 20 years now with few issues or failures.

 

You remove the intake manifold to walnut blast. You don't just shoot walnut sand into the vacuum lines lol. It's a sizable job.

 

While there is LOTS of threads and opinions on this, I tend to agree with most of SoupAssassin's points. It's a naturally aspirated motor that is not a pressure turbo. DI has been around for a while with "no major documentation" that the valves will get so caked up they will destroy your motor.
I however, plan to do the CRC spray before each oil change to try and keep it at bay as best as I can. A few extra bucks and time IMHO is worth it. If it ends up being THAT bad after 100k then I will invest in a deeper valve cleaning (walnut, chemical, whatever) if and when it is warranted. Enjoy the ride, change oil frequently and drive it like you stole it once in a while 😉 🤘

 

Any real shop would remove the cylinderhead and put it in the blast cabinet. I guess most folks here have never used an industrial bead blaster, but you'd never use it in an open bay shop just spraying into a cyl head, even soda will remove the skin right off your hand. ground walnut shells are worse, never heard of walnut sand........lol

 

Dude this is not uncommon, weird, or incorrect. It's SOP for cleaning DI valves properly....

What Is Walnut Blasting for Cars?

Consumer Reports explains how walnut blasting can be used to clean harmful deposits from an engine's injection system.

www.consumerreports.org

People even do it themselves regularly....




Just Google it lol. It's common, normal, and the right thing to do if you're worried about valve buildup. You're acting like I'm describing some insane exotic process I dredged up from some obscure one of shop. Some people call the ground up walnuts walnut sand, it's just another term for it. Removing the cylinder head is unnecessary extra work, just be careful during the process or have an shop do it for you - of course it can hurt you if you aren't careful. The high pressure hose at your local manual wash will break your skin open too. You use walnuts because if any falls into the cylinder it harmlessly burns off. It's perfectly safe if done correctly, fully restores your valves, and gives you an opportunity to do a variety of other high mileage interval service stuff at the same time.

 

No Thanks, that video of that kid is a little to Rube Goldbergish for me, I'll stick with my 26 dollar can of intake valve cleaner that only takes 15 minutes. I did call three dealers(bmw,hyundai) all said they only do chemical cleaning, and knew of no one in town that does, or any company that makes a walnut media cleaning system.

 

You do you. Enjoy your barely cleaned valves with zero power improvement and tiny chunks of dried up carbon stuck who knows where.

 

Wow, people here get brutal. How about instead of knocking people down for their lack of knowledge, maybe educate them. Others here I'm sure don't know it all and could use the information or a different point of view.
Unfortunately the internet and forums like this have many facts, opinions, and lies floating around. Would be nice for fellow Frontier owners to at least assist in steering others here with some information without bashing someone for their misinformation. Maybe you could provide YOUR facts and experience as a follow up to your conclusion.
I'll just sit back and enjoy the show from the cheap seats

 

Wow, people here get brutal.

You ain't lyin'. lol I've learned so much from this board and come across so many helpful folks... With that being said, there are a handful that must hate life, themselves or something. And, unfortunately, they have some pretty high post counts. lol No telling how many decent people have been turned away. Anyway, keep doin you, Grey, you're an asset.
As far as catch cans go, glad I read through all of this. I know myself, I'll steer away from a catch can since I know how forgetful I am most times. But, I will look into a can of cleaner before changes further. Going to see if I can dig up anymore about preventive maintenance from the jump versus utilizing once buildup is more substantial.

 

Not my statement, I was using his own quote about himself, I wouldn't have mentioned it if he didn't bring it up. But due to some statements it's clear he could use some more familiarization like we all could. I don't think he gets that when chem cleaning the engine is running, nothing is breaking off and sitting there. I would think most folks have cleaned some carbon build-up from something be it a throttle body or intake and have watched the cleaner dissolve the carbon.

 

Multiple things can be true at once.

There ARE blasting services out there for automotive applications and specifically marketed for DI.

Also true that chemical products would be hard pressed to clean as well a head already gunked. Could it still work? Yes. Very case by case IMO including if you need to in the first place. I suspect the key is how soaked the surfaces during the pause in process.

 

I like my JL Separator. It's easy to empty the can the 1st of every month and that's it. Honestly, doing the whole CRC spray thing into the intake is just more work. My JL went on a 5k miles so the valves will be cleaner than without.

 

I too install the J&L oil separator last week. Very easy to install and empty. Guess every little bit counts keeping the valves clean.

 

Surely a catch can can't hurt anything if you empty it on time, in a couple years when folks get 150-200K miles we'll for sure find out if they were beneficial.

 

Seriously doubt a catch can will hurt anything. I used to have one on my 2015 Colorado that had DI. Emptied a lot of muck that would have gone to engine. Whether they actually help minimize carbon buildup....didn't keep truck long enough to know. They are sort of like aftermarket low loss air filters. Some people swear by them, some think they allow fine particles of contamination to enter engine and damage cylinder walls. I personally never looked in engine with a microscope to see. Nissan engineers are going to design the whole engine setup for 1) Efficiency, bragging rights (hp/torque etc), saving on warranty repairs, and saving money in manufacturing to increase profits.

 

While it is not the Frontier engine, this IS a very good explanation of where the pressure and gases go. Very good visual explanation for those that are not familiar with engines.

 

While it is not the Frontier engine, this IS a very good explanation of where the pressure and gases go. Very good visual explanation for those that are not familiar with engines.

Hmmmm, I find his physics conclusions quite questionable. The separator he installed for his "demonstration" is designed for high-pressure compressed air, not low-pressure vacuum passage, so the filter media's going to be different. How old's that engine and what is the condition of the rings and valve guide seals? Sounded pretty janky to me. And most OCC cans don't have a tiny-orifice filter inline, if they have anything at all, its usually a metal wool insert that most resembles a Brillo pad minus the soap. They work more by centrifugal and gravitational action than by tiny filtering holes. YMMV.

 

The problem with using liquid/spray products through a vacuum port is, #1 they're not going to clean the build up that DI does to the backs of intake valves and #2, what ever liquified black goo it is able to be pushed along winds up in your ~$3000 worth of catalytic converters on your shiny new 2022 Frontier. This will reduce the lifespan of your catalytic converters.

Like said, mechanical removal of the solid material is the only way to properly clean the backs of the valves on a DI engine. You do one set of valves at a time while baring the engine over @ the crank pulley to make sure the valves you're cleaning are closed. It's not that bad of a job and could be done alone with a sparkplug change, etc, or when you have to take the upper intake manifold off. You're most of the way there..

IMO, I think we're mostly talking ourselves into a problem that's rarely a problem.

Best you can do is run a good low Noack oil and/or shoot for the new Dexos1, Gen3 oils and change it often. Clean, maintained oil isn't going to vaporize as much nasties into the PCV system, which ultimately is what cooks to the back sides of the intake valves.

Some engines use port and DI, so that the port injection "washes" the intake valves. This is just way too much added complexity IMO.

 

IMO, I think we're mostly talking ourselves into a problem that's rarely a problem.

Best you can do is run a good low Noack oil and/or shoot for the new Dexos1, Gen3 oils and change it often. Clean, maintained oil isn't going to vaporize as much nasties into the PCV system, which ultimately is what cooks to the back sides of the intake valves.

I personally agree with this approach. Another reason I don't mind changing oil at 5K vs 10k. As I posted in various other threads, the extra $600 over the course of 100K (assuming $30 per oil change), is a minor expense to extended the inevitable valve cleaning. It's my personal choice to go this route. While some say changing oil too soon is a waste (oil still has lubricating properties at 5K) I am fine with spending my time and money every 5k with an oil change. Just like those that check their OCC every week, month, etc prefer to empty them at their intervals. I feel every 5k is good enough for my cost/benefit. Not only is the oil change helpful for the valve carbon build up, other parts of the motor will benefit as well.

As I mentioned before, "IF" the truck gets to the point where a thorough valve cleaning is in order, I will get them cleaned. Catch can or not, it will eventually be needed. Now when that is depends on many other factors. But at the end of the day it is all how the owner of the vehicle maintains it.


Basically a vehicle is going to be in one of these categories (within reason):
1) No CC, oil change at 10K
2) OCC installed, oil change at 10K
3) No CC, oil changed at 5K
4) OCC installed, oil changed at 5k

Lots of speculation and assumptions, but no long term hard data if any of these will delay the inevitable any longer is unavailable. Baseline would be #1 and then compare with the options. And if the data is available, how much of a mileage difference is there between the options? If it only delays the inevitable by 1K, 5K, 10K....is it worth it for you?? I personally choose the more frequent oil change route without the CC (#3). But I also plan to add (post #30) aerosol cleaning before my oil change, so that is also another option/factor to consider into the mix. Time will only tell if I made a good choice. Until then, I am enjoying the truck and so far it's been treating me very well.

 

I'll add that if someone is often towing HEAVY for instance, then they're moving a LOT more fuel/exhaust through their engine/cats while effectively cutting their fuel economy sometime in half. This is where issues might very well arise w/ intake valve deposits on DI engines...which will compound over time.

 

Welp.. I kinda done it again with the wasting of cash and whatnot..

I'll be a catch can guinea pig for a 2022 Frontier. I ordered a used J&L catch can off the eBay for about half the cost of a new one. Curiosity got the best of me here and this is the first vehicle I've owned since I knew the existence of catch cans, that I could accept the way it fits and installs on the vehicle.

I'll post some pics of how it goes.

 

I just installed my J&L catch can I bought off ebay. Install took all of 5min with the included hardware and instructions. It's a nice clean install and easy to undo should you need to. I'll post back what I see in 1000mi or so. Like I say, I don't expect any magic from this. It was more of a curiosity purchase than anything, because of the neat and clean install on this particular vehicle.

 

@Cryptic1911 Agree that the freezing in winter is an issue if the catch can is not monitored frequently. I also agree with the potential of blowing out seals.

My opinion....just like the rear diff mod most people do here, I feel the CC is like the OEM valve on the rear diff. In MY OPINION, it is another hurdle for the exiting air/gasses. That is one reason I mention venting it into the atmosphere at some point will be done me. And just like the rear diff mod, it benefits from the air moving, in or out, as quickly as possible to avoid pressure/seal issues. See post#39 for a video explaining the exact same concept for the motor.

Until then, I will just change oil and use the spray cleaner. I personally don't think the cleaner is "caustic" enough to do long term damage. I could be totally wrong, but I'm guessing it's no more caustic than regular gasoline??

I am just a bench mechanic and a good parts changer, no expert here. But like many olderrrrrr members here, I have dealt with all types of engineering marvels 🤪 over the years. And a lot of the "old ways" or "simpler ways" seem to work best in my opinion. So I personally believe adding more plumbing is just ADDING more resistance to the venting, which needs to be able to breathe more freely. One day I will vent it into the atmosphere, but until then, I will leave it alone and just do the required (or better) maintenance schedule.

And as always....feel free to use the CC route. If someone actually provides hard data and evidence this does make a big difference, I will be the first to buy one myself. I don't knock anyone trying something to see if it works. I just choose to wait until I have more concrete evidence it actually works and how much of a benefit it really is. 😉✌

 

@Cryptic1911 Agree that the freezing in winter is an issue if the catch can is not monitored frequently. I also agree with the potential of blowing out seals.

My opinion....just like the rear diff mod most people do here, I feel the CC is like the OEM valve on the rear diff. In MY OPINION, it is another hurdle for the exiting air/gasses. That is one reason I mention venting it into the atmosphere at some point will be done me. And just like the rear diff mod, it benefits from the air moving, in or out, as quickly as possible to avoid pressure/seal issues. See post#39 for a video explaining the exact same concept for the motor.

Until then, I will just change oil and use the spray cleaner. I personally don't think the cleaner is "caustic" enough to do long term damage. I could be totally wrong, but I'm guessing it's no more caustic than regular gasoline??

I am just a bench mechanic and a good parts changer, no expert here. But like many olderrrrrr members here, I have dealt with all types of engineering marvels 🤪 over the years. And a lot of the "old ways" or "simpler ways" seem to work best in my opinion. So I personally believe adding more plumbing is just ADDING more resistance to the venting, which needs to be able to breathe more freely. One day I will vent it into the atmosphere, but until then, I will leave it alone and just do the required (or better) maintenance schedule.

And as always....feel free to use the CC route. If someone actually provides hard data and evidence this does make a big difference, I will be the first to buy one myself. I don't knock anyone trying something to see if it works. I just choose to wait until I have more concrete evidence it actually works and how much of a benefit it really is. 😉✌

Well, gas being more or less caustic isn't the reason other vehicles don't have the buildup issues. On standard port injected engines, the gas is coating the back side of the intake valves the entire time it's running, so it's continuously washing anything off. Direct injected engines don't have that, since the injector sprays into the combustion chamber, rather than into the manifold.

 

I just did an oil change on my 2022 and have had my J&L catch can in service for just about 1000 miles. Here's the results of what was in the catch can. Sort of what I expected. About an ounce of liquid in 1000mi, but I didn't expect the oil to be so moisture laden since this vehicle does zero short trips.

 

I just did an oil change on my 2022 and have had my J&L catch can in service for just about 1000 miles. Here's the results of what was in the catch can. Sort of what I expected. About an ounce of liquid in 1000mi, but I didn't expect the oil to be so moisture laden since this vehicle does zero short trips.

Why the moisture? Could you possibly have a leak? I just drained mine and all oil.

 

I like the idea at least of a pump. No positive pressures to consider in that scenario... just burned out pumps.

 

So, a vacuum pump that would pull the vapour out of the engine and dump it to atmo. I think some drag engines run that way, I considered that build many years ago, my Camaro was equipped with a useless air pump to divert outside air into the exhaust, one more emission-crap 1980s lets-pile-it-on-instead-of-really-engineering hassle that the EPA foisted. I considered switching the piping around and making it draw from the PCV side and dump to atmo instead, but in the end just removed it and got a shorter drive belt. Problem solved.