[TxDayTrader]

Yes, let's keep this to the forefront since there appears to be three ways.

One is suspect due to an unknown part being added into the mix; one is to jump the wires as you describe and most likely that might have been the way I would have gone, except, the simple tie strap end popped up, I tried it, and it turns off the AS* system the minute the truck is started. And the black tie strap in a black hole is next to impossible to see, unless you know where it is.

But I am totally with you on the fact the system can be disabled, either with an unknown part, by moving wires around or sticking a piece of plastic to jam the switch.

However, there appears to be so many people on this forum who continue to say it cannot be bypassed and many of those don't even have a mid-year '23 or later to even try; they just like to jump in as experts on a subject they are not experts.

I concluded last night that I would avoid this subject, but had to post here, since I believe keeping this subject alive is a good thing for us, who have been damned with having this AS* on our vehicles.

I will also note, that even though this did not bug me that much, after I turned it off, Ii realized it bugged me more than I thought. And in the past few weeks, been in other vehicles that have the system and the Frontier restarted the engine and it vibrated the entire vehicle like the start of a mechanical bull; whereas, a ride in a new Hyundai Tucson and a Colorado ZR2 the Frontier's restart at a red light was extremely intrusive compared to the others. The Colorado you could feel, but did not vibrate like a mechanical bull, the Hyundai, I could not feel the restart.

Thanks for the feedback. It was your comment that swayed me to go the jumper route as you said "however, who wants to be the one who finds out it is a problem. (I'm thinking of a possible fire more than just a possible sudden failure to work.)" I'm sure there's a work around for your problem with the jumper wire or just a way to make it work stay put for you. As stated in my last post maybe try some smaller wire. It sounds like you're saying the white locking tab flipped up. Is that correct?
White Locking Tab Flipped Up

I notice my locking tab held down much better with some 20-22 gauge speaker wire. I mean, even smaller than that would work just fine too since it's just a ground that's measured in milliamps i believe. 1 thing that comes to mind is to zip tie that White Locking Tab shut. Get everything the way you want and zip tie that bad boy.

You mention it being hard to hit the receptacle that the black wire is pinned in if understood that correctly. Get a good set of eyes in there and just tell them to cram the wire in. If you're having trouble seeing then i guess some solder would be out of the question. I just crammed wire down into both holes. I have my factory fog light switch on my 1st gen cramed in the back of the harness just like we're talking about for easily 5 years or more. I liked the idea better than cutting and wire crammed into the back of the harness just fine.

What size wire are you using? Do you know? But just based off what you've said i'd say to put a zip tie around that harness to keep white locking tab closed.. Getting everything in plalce and shooting just a bit of hot glue in place may work too plus hot glue isn't permanent. Hold well but can be pulled right off.

The eliminator itself does work tho and tons of people use them so maybe reconsider on that but sorry man. Hate to hear you tried it and it actually worked but just wouldn't stay put.

Well just let me know if you need some help. I know i sound like a broken record but i think a smaller piece of wire may be your answer. You may still be in business just need the right tool for the job. It's cool you tired though.

Then again there's always the sure fire cut & splice method but personally, i'd wait for m warranty to be up before i did that. A T- Tap would work too. That may not be a bad idea since its easily removabe and noby would would know it was there.

 

[RET-G]

I'm just thinking this thread might need to be kept active as more and more people come on board with the AS* system. As I have stated, in the beginning it really didn't bother me, then I turn it off with the tie strap and I realized it did bother me. Hard to explain. (Later driving in some other vehicle with the AS* system, I realized how the Frontier restart was rough/harsh/not as smooth as other vehicles.)

Your method of jumping a wire between pins 5 (ground) to pin 7 (BCM signal wire) makes perfect sense, the BCM sees that circuit open (and engine is running) it allows the AS* system to run, when the driver pushes the button the signal is grounded and the BCM notes the driver turned the system off. In effect, that is actually what the tie strap end (or any other item that can be mounted between the switch and the bracket to JAM the switch closed) does the same function. Start the vehicle and the BCM notes the grounded circuit and turns the AS* off. Since the BCM reacts in milliseconds to most inputs it appears to the human to be a smooth transition; not even noticeable.

As I noted in my previous post there appeared to be a lot of people discussing this in another thread and stating the AS* cannot be defeated; and yet it can. Your method or the method I am using from a suggestion by "Sgthawker" work, or at least your method should work just as great, I have just not tried it. Hopefully, some others who have will come here and post.

This should end the statements by people saying the AS* cannot be defeated when in effect it can be; at least in vehicles built during model year 2023/24. Knowing that someone from Nissan is reading this forum as I would bet a good size steak they do, they might decide to take out the old fashioned mechanical switch being used and use an electronic switch making it a lot more difficult to defeat. Depends on how strong they feel on this subject of keeping this functionig vs. just getting that extra credit for CAFE. Personally, I do not know, personally, I do not care.

That's all I'm saying on this subject; tired of beating a dead horse for no reason.

People will do what they want on this subject while conintuing to complain, some will continue to deny the truth, some will follow one of the two known ways to shut the AS* down and be happy, while some will eventually stop careing anymore about this subject.

 

[Hindsight70]

There is an even easier method. Cut off a zip tie, squeeze it in between the bezel around the button and the button. It works fine. The light stays on telling you you have turned the system off, the grey icon in the dash display shows it is off and you don't have to take the switch out at all to defeat the A.S.S.

This is it exactly

 

[TxDayTrader]

Or you could take the LITERAL 10 minutes, Jumper the 2 ground wires that make a connection when you push the switch or add the Eliminator which does the same thing.

Adding a 1 inch jumper wire to the 2 ground pins on the back of the switch harness makes the switch always ON but only when the truck is started. So no need to Push the switch or Cram anything in it.

Going on 10 Weeks Now Since I Did The Mod. Notice the truck is off, Start Button is Pushed, and A.S.S. Switch LIghts Up. I'll take that over cramming something in my switch anyday.

Post #12 Shows You How

Teardown Image:

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but is free)

 

[Frontinator]

Harshness might be gear ratio and "big" engine

 

[TxDayTrader]

Harshness might be gear ratio and "big" engine

Not sure exactly what you mean. I'm all ears

 

[Frontinator]

Not sure exactly what you mean. I'm all ears

Oops. Responding to this:

Later driving in some other vehicle with the AS* system, I realized how the Frontier restart was rough/harsh/not as smooth as other vehicles.)

 

[TxDayTrader]

Oops. Responding to this:

Later driving in some other vehicle with the AS* system, I realized how the Frontier restart was rough/harsh/not as smooth as other vehicles.)

lol yeah, sometimes i could feel it start up like normal. sometimes it would be smooth tho and didn't notice

 

[GreyFox]

As a big fan of the VVCS de-pin/unplug group, I would go this route. Kills two birds with one stone.
Both systems are idiotic IMO. Just glad my 22 doesn't have the @.$.$. feature or its added hardware. My two cents.

 

[PoMans4x4]

Auto start/stop is so frustrating. On my newly purchased used 2021 Chevy Traverse, eliminating it was as simple as plugging a $15 hood switch bypass harness in between the hood switch and the switch harness cable. No codes that I can see with my reader and the hood open message still works. No more auto stop/start.

I then tried one on my daughter's 2016 8th gen Malibu and it doesn't work. It indeed eliminates stop/start, but it immediately lit the MIL with a hood switch circuit range code. No go as it's due for yearly state inspection and you won't pass with the MIL on.

 

[TxDayTrader]

Auto start/stop is so frustrating. On my newly purchased used 2021 Chevy Traverse, eliminating it was as simple as plugging a $15 hood switch bypass harness in between the hood switch and the switch harness cable. No codes that I can see with my reader and the hood open message still works. No more auto stop/start.

I then tried one on my daughter's 2016 8th gen Malibu and it doesn't work. It indeed eliminates stop/start, but it immediately lit the MIL with a hood switch circuit range code. No go as it's due for yearly state inspection and you won't pass with the MIL on.

All you need to do is identify which 2 wires make a connection when the switch is pushed and put a jumper wire in between them so they have constant connection. WHen the car is started the switch will automatically turn on as if you pushed the switch but you don't have to push the switch because the connection thats made when the switch is pushed is already made. That's all a switch does is bridge 2 connections to make 1 so that power can flow.

Or just buy the eliminator on Amazon for 15 Bucks. SIMPLE

Amazon.com: Auto Start Stop Disable/Delete/Eliminator/Disabler Compatible with Malibu (2016-2018)/Chevrolet Equinox (2017-2018)/Cadillac XT5 (2016-2018) and Cruze (2015-2018)(Big Plug) : Automotive

Buy Auto Start Stop Disable/Delete/Eliminator/Disabler Compatible with Malibu (2016-2018)/Chevrolet Equinox (2017-2018)/Cadillac XT5 (2016-2018) and Cruze (2015-2018)(Big Plug): Remote Starters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[PoMans4x4]

All you need to do is identify which 2 wires make a connection when the switch is pushed and put a jumper wire in between them so they have constant connection. WHen the car is started the switch will automatically turn on as if you pushed the switch but you don't have to push the switch because the connection thats made when the switch is pushed is already made. That's all a switch does is bridge 2 connections to make 1 so that power can flow.

Or just buy the eliminator on Amazon for 15 Bucks. SIMPLE

Amazon.com: Auto Start Stop Disable/Delete/Eliminator/Disabler Compatible with Malibu (2016-2018)/Chevrolet Equinox (2017-2018)/Cadillac XT5 (2016-2018) and Cruze (2015-2018)(Big Plug) : Automotive

Buy Auto Start Stop Disable/Delete/Eliminator/Disabler Compatible with Malibu (2016-2018)/Chevrolet Equinox (2017-2018)/Cadillac XT5 (2016-2018) and Cruze (2015-2018)(Big Plug): Remote Starters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Like I said, that's the exact jumper harness I bought for my 2021 Traverse and 2016 Malibu. It works on the traverse, but not on the malibu. It does prevent stop/start on the malibu, but lights the MIL with the code I stated above. I've seen reports of other 8th gen malibu owners where it didn't work for them either.

There is no disable switch for auto stop/start on either vehicle.

 

[TxDayTrader]

Like I said, that's the exact jumper harness I bought for my 2021 Traverse and 2016 Malibu. It works on the traverse, but not on the malibu. It does prevent stop/start on the malibu, but lights the MIL with the code I stated above. I've seen reports of other 8th gen malibu owners where it didn't work for them either.

There is no disable switch for auto stop/start on either vehicle.

Sucks having a CEL on but personally bc i hate A.S.S. so much i'd just go with the eliminator then take it off when its time to get inspected.

If you can read schematics - Get the shop manual the Chevy techs use and find the work around. That's how i figured the Frontier out. Theres got to be a way.

I"m not great at reading schematics but i understand whats going on. May be worth a shot. Go to the Malibu forums and i'm sure somebody has uploaded or has a download link to the actual manual.

GOOGLE Key Word Search: Chevy Malibu Factory Service Shop Manual Download FORUM and something will pop up. could even put specific year or 8th gen in search

 

[TxDayTrader]

This Thread Deserves A Sticky - Just Saying

Putting This To Bed. It takes Less Than 10 Minutes to Disable the A.S.S. - Jumper Wire For The WIN. Jumper Wire Is In SOLID and Would Have To Be Yanked Out Which Is Not Going To Happen. Use A Small 20 - 22 Gauge Wire

Video From Start to finish - 10 Minutes. How To Add Jumper Wire + Tear Down - Start To Finish and Disable AUTO START STOP 3rd Gen Frontier. I went back to make the video bc i forgot 2 Philips Screws that hold the bottom of the AC Unit in place. Video shows me putting the screws back in but not taking them out. The USB A is powered by a MINI USB Connection NOT Micro USB as stated in the Video. The USB C connection is a branch off of the MINI USB Cable. MINI USB = USB A in speed and bandwidth but is just a different connection type. There is no true USB C in the vehicle. For the purposes of this video nothing to do with USB is of a concern. Just clearing it up.

Quick Link
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but is free)
Post #12 Post#13
Post #34 - Start To Finish "How To" Video (Takes Less Than 10 Minutes)

Other Methods
Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like ta 2022 would but is free)
Post #44 - Jumper Wire + Completely Deleting The A.S.S. Button All Together

 

[Malcolm]

Auto Start Stop Delete - 3 Methods - Starts at Post #4JPTB

First Off, If you attempt this and destroy something that's on you. I am in no way telling people what they should or shouldn't do. This is just what i've done and all 3 Methods have worked for me. I will not be responsible for anything YOU DO.

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like the Eliminator but is free)

In this thread i'll simply be posting the different methods i tried and got to work. You will see the thought process as i'm going through the process and figuring things out. For those that like to learn and understand exactly what it is you're doing to your expensive vehicle - EXCELLENT and thanks for taking the time to get understanding. For those of you that just want the answers spoon fed to you without having to think or learn about anything i'll try & make quick to the point "how to's" in my post where i can.

EDIT: Attached To The Bottom of Several Posts Throughout This Thread Is A PDF Called "Complete Fender Audio Disassembly" Which Will Show You How To Take The Panels Off To Get To The Auto Start Stop Switch

Or Take A Look At This PIc. So Easy a Caveman Could Do It.

3RD GEN '22 '23 '24 Complete Official Nissan Wiring Schematics

This Thread Deserves A Sticky - Just Saying

Putting This To Bed. It takes Less Than 10 Minutes to Disable the A.S.S. - Jumper Wire For The WIN. Jumper Wire Is In SOLID and Would Have To Be Yanked Out Which Is Not Going To Happen. Use A Small 22 Gauge Wire

Video From Start to finish - 10 Minutes. How To Add Jumper Wire + Tear Down - Start To Finish and Disable AUTO START STOP 3rd Gen Frontier

Quick Link
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like the Eliminator but is free)
Post #12 and Post#13

Other Methods
Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like the Eliminator but is free)

 

[Malcolm]

I have tool that works on all makes and models, IFBP tool, when I’m feeling mean I use my MFBP tool, they work great every time. Maybe we start a program for A..aholics😁

 

[TxDayTrader]

Was At Harbor Freight Today and They Have A Few Panel Puller Sets For Pulling Dash Panels. I love Harbor Freight, It's a Mans Paradise. Its Basically an Auto Mechanic Tool Shop. They need to change their name to "China Direct" though as it'd be more accurate to what that place really is. I mean come on, You're not fooling me with old American Industrial names like Pitsburgh and U.S. General or even Bauer - The Tools are decent and their ICON line is not cheap and very high quality tools. I saw a 3rd party disinterested Test where The ICON Torque Wrench actually beat the Snap-On - The ICON didn't destroy Snap-On but it was a little bit better but i digress

Anyways, Here's The Panel Puller Sets They Have on The Cheap and Will Definitely Get The Job Done I'd Go with the Blue or Yellow set.
For the purposes of the specific panels being pulled to access the A.S.S. i'd go with the Blue one but they Yellow one would work too. I personally like the skinny Blue one in the middle and the skinny Blue one on the end.

 

[Frontinator]

I have the blue and yellow with the skinny yellow one modified slightly. I already had the yellow but the blue was on sale with some diff tools so I grabbed it.

 

[TxDayTrader]

I have the blue and yellow with the skinny yellow one modified slightly. I already had the yellow but the blue was on sale with some diff tools so I grabbed it.

Hell yeah, i love Harbor Freight, it's awesome. Everytime i go in there i leave with more than i intended to. Like a lot more. Like today i just went in to get some Nitrile Gloves and left with $225 in tools 😆 - I do this every time. I've just about bought all i wanted out of there though. I have quite the tool collection. For the weekend warrior their tools are just fine. I've got tools i bought from there in 2006 that i still use and work perfectly to this day. Can't beat that place with what you get for the price.

Side Note. I have 14,914 miles on my truck. I'm due for an Oil change at the Dealership. THEY DO look for any reason to disqualify your warranty and i got the 8yr/96k mile warranty and i'm not trying to jeopardize that. Think i'm going to lengthen that Bridge Wire and have a quick disconnect on it and make it easy access. Maybe in the glove box or pull the lower panel that takes a minute or less to get into and make the disconnection before it goes to a Dealership for anything. They'll get in my truck and notice that A.S.S. light is always on when truck is in ACC mode or started. I don't want any investigation done or questions asked so tomorrow i'll be doing what i said - Lengthening the Wire and adding a quick disconnect. They'll never know and if for some reason it has to go in for a good amount of time i'll take the 5 minutes and pull the wire completely.

 

[Frontinator]

Reminds me... had the combo meter (inst cluster) replaced recently and I had forgotten the variable voltage doodad connector was dangling there - but they probably don't care. They didn't even open the hood to disconnect the battery.