A method to shut off *** would be quite appreciated I think.

 

Would be nice to turn it off and be done with it .

 

METHOD #1
- There's a plug on the negative terminal of the battery - DISCONNECT IT. I took the truck for a drive and the engine never shut off when coming to a stop. I pushed the A.S.S. button, it lit up but did absolutely nothing. THe A.S.S. never came back on. I pushed the switch to turn off the light and the A.S.S. again did nothing. The only thing i got with this method was a grey flashing A.S.S. symbol on the cluster that flashes on and off every 1 second. To me its no big deal at all as it blends in being grey and problem solved.

After lookin at the Nissan Shop Manual i quickly realized The A.S.S. system is ran through a bunch of things. The ECU, Gauge Cluster, AC, Brake LIghts, etc. I checked to see that everything still worked and i have NO ISSUES other than that flashing A.S.S. Symbol on the cluster - See Pics Below.

CONNECTOR ON NEGATIVE TERMINAL TO DISCONNECT:

A.S.S. SYMBOL - FLASHES ON and OFF EVERY 1 SECOND. The Orange Light on The Actual A.S.S. Switch Stays Off Unless You Press The Switch and Turn It On - and even then the switch will not engage the A.S.S. - It's dead from the disconnection at the battery: Not Annoying at all bc its Grey like the rest of the indicator lights and not a big orange Check Engine LIght Style:

SO - Problem Solved For The Most Part.
Here's The Awesome Gas Saving That A.S.S. Has given me over the course of 12,000 Miles. 733ml which comes out to be about 48 oz of gas or 1/3 of a Gallon.

Method 2
I'm Working On It. Just need a little more time. It will work with the eliminator. I have a few screen shots of the schematics and figured out which wires do what. The A.S.S Switch is an 8 Pin Setup and so is My A.S.S. Eliminator for the Nissan 2017 Xtrail. All it does is it gets plugged inline in the wiring and connects to the A.S.S. Switch but has a power cable that's a constant hot with a memory chip in it that remembers the last selection (ON or OFF).
That Shop Manual Shows the Switch to be 8 Pins and so is my Eliminator

From The Shop Manual It Shows Me The A.S.S. Switch is 8 Pins, Tells Me What Color They Are, What Their Function Is, And Where They Route To. Its Totally Doable. Only Benefit I See Is That I Don't Have the A.S.S. Symbol Blinking on The Cluster Which IMO Is No Big Deal At All Really. ISS is short for IDLE START STOP

I have a few more schematics that explain things in more detail but you should get the basics by now.

What i'd really like to do is delete that A.S.S. Switch and put in the '22 - early '23 Piece. They're the same except the '23 has the added A.S.S. Switch and the '22 has just the hazard and passenger airbag. The Hazards are the same size but what they did was make the passenger airbag light half the size and make the A.S.S. switch the same size and put them on the either side of the hazard for symmetry. I'd be willing to bet the full and half sized passenger airbag light have the same connector in the back. In fact all i have to do is look at the manual to see. So basically just pop out the no longer needed A.S.S. and put in a '22 Passenger Airbag light and done. If not, then you may need the bezel part from a '22 that the switches go in as well. Really its no big deal to make it happen on the cheap.

Teardown Image:

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but is free)

 

SO - Problem Solved For The Most Part.
Here's The Awesome Gas Saving That A.S.S. Has given me over the course of 12,000 Miles. 733ml which comes out to be about 48 oz of gas or 1/3 of a Gallon.
View attachment 382209

Great post @TxDayTrader !
You've only idled for 32 minutes over 12,000 miles ? Are you sure that's correct ? Are you sure it doesn't reset when the battery is disconnected?

I can do more than 32 minutes idling at red lights/traffic jams in a single 30 mile round trip in and out of Boston. One trip.
So disconnecting these systems is definitely not for everyone.

 

Long Story Short - If you want the A.S.S. Switch disabled quickly and with the least amount of effort possible then Disconnect this Connection on the Negative Terminal and you're done:

 

Hi,
for people without electrical knowledge method #1 looks to be the easy way to go.

Any “side effects” by going this route such as the A.S.S. Logo on the dash blinking 24/7?

Why try methods #2 or #3 if method #1 it’s a 20 seconds fix?

Are there any other benefits from using methods #2 or #3 over #1?

Thank you

 

Curious to know if depining the pink wire #4 in that connector and reconnecting it would activate the ISS system again and just make the alternator put out the constant 14 volts.

 

I must be missing something. You got me lost. You'll have to explain.

I was however thinking that the connection is made on terminals 5 and 7 when the button is pushed which turns on the A.S.S. So if you bridged the wires that go to 5 and 7 on the connector that plugs into the switch with one of those plastic tap connectors with the blade in it then the connection would be constantly made. Not drawing any power when truck is off but when the truck gets turned on the connection is automatically made without having to push the button:

 

I was talking about the sensor connection at the neg. Battery terminal. It’s only 4 wires.

 

Yep. That sensor on the ground cable is the current sensor for VVCS. There has been much discussion in these hallowed halls on this subject already. Good to know that disabling VVCS, at least by unplugging anyway, also disables the stupid auto stop/start BS.

 

FIGUERED IT OUT - THIS THINGS A WRAP

METHOD # 3

If you don't feel like reading and getting an understanding then i'll cut to the chase - Bridge the wires on the connection for the A.S.S. Switch - PIN 5 (Black) and PIN 7 (White) and the Auto Start Stop Will Always Be off. When the truck starts the orange light on the switch will come on as if you've pushed the button and the Auto Start Stop symbol on cluster will come on like normal. When the truck is shut off the orange light on the switch will go off like normal. Basically you're just inserting a piece of wire to make the switch automatically come on when the truck is started without ever having to touch/push the switch. It's totally harmless.

YouTube Video Demonstration At Bottom of Post Goes Over All Of This

OK, Figured out another method if you don't want to disconnect the plug at the negative terminal. I like this Method A LOT!

As stated before the connection to turn off the A.S.S. is made when you push the button which is a switch. A Switch makes a connection and in this case the connection is made between PIN 5 (Black) and PIN 7 (White) which are 2 Grounds. Thats all the switch does its grounds the connection. The Circuit is broken bc its ungrounded, you push the switch, the 2 ground wires are now connected, and you have now grounded the circuit which makes the circuit complete.

9/22/2024 Updated Pic i pulled from the Official Nissan Wiring Schematics that anyone can download or just view in your browser in Post #1. I uploaded 2022, 2023, and 2024. (Click the Thumbnail for the Full Size Image.)

This is the connection. Its oriented as if you're looking from the side with the PINS in it and not looking at it from the back side with the wires going in

HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE THE MAGIC HAPPEN:
PICS OF THE JUMPER WIRE CONNECTING PINS 5 (Black Wire) and 7 (White Wire) - Again, Both Wires are Ground Wires
JUMPER WIRE

YOUTUBE DEMONSTRATION

ELIMINATOR - work in progress!!!
This A.S.S. Eliminator that i bought on Amazon for a Nissan XTrail which is from my understanding the foreign version of the Rogue. I Pulled the thing apart to look at it and took all the Fabric Electrical tape off. I looked at the way it was wired up to see if it was wired to make a connection with PIN 5 and PIN 7 and IT WAS and IS. I pulled a couple of pieces off the dash to get to that A.S.S. switch for the moment of truth today to see if it would plug up in line and if the connections were the same to work with the 3rd Gen Frontier. I was super excited when it plug up PERFECTLY but no dice. No Idea why its not working

Plugged Up Perfectly IN LINE with A.S.S.

PDF On How To Remove the 2 Dash Pieces To Get To The Switch Is Linked At Bottom of Post I Believe. Removal Takes About 5 Minutes: PDF is titled "Complete Fender Audio System Disassembly"

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***One other method that may work is making the disconnection at the Battery Negative Terminal and DePinning or if you just dont give a damn then cutting the wire for PIN 2 (Black Wire) as it sends the info to the Cluster. When disconnecting at the Battery the A.S.S. will Turn Off like we want but will Flash the A.S.S. Symbol on the Cluster. So removing this cable from the equation may kill 3 birds with one stone by killing the A.S.S., The A.S.S. alert symbol that flashes On/Off every 1 Second, and when the disconnection at Negative Battery Terminal is made it disables the VVCS which most people seem to hate as well.
I'll let one of you other guys Guinea Pig that one tho. I think i've gone far enough and am happy with the results of the 2 Methods that got figured out. Personally, I like Method #2 with the Eliminator and Method #3 with the jumper wire the best. Either or work just fine imo

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but it's free but is free)

 

Went with some smaller wire. Think it's 20 Gauge Speaker Wire. There's a little panel on the connector. Flip it up with a Pick, feed the 20 Gauge Wire into the hole just like the regular wire is inserted and then close and snap the panel shut. Has a very nice snug fit that isn't going anywhere.

I may stuff that newly rigged A.S.S. Switch back behind the panel and get a '22 or early '23 Panel since the part where the A.S.S., Hazard, and Passenger Air Bag Light are Different. Every Switch has its own compartment and its part of the whole panel with the AC Controls. Everything should swap over to the older panel - AC controls, 4x4, Hazard Switch but i'll have to get the older Passenger Air Bag Switch. I've seen all this stuff on eBay many times. I ditched the "Upgraded" LED Map LIghts that came with the PRO-4X and got halogen version on eBay and then put big aftermarket LED's in it since the "upgraded LED" version of the map lights are not upgradeable. So, gotta love eBay - an online jukyard with parts already pulled.
Then again i may just leave everything the same and if warranty work needs to be done then open it up and take that little wire out. They'll look for any reason to get out of warranty work. I don't want that happening especially when i paid extra for the 8 year/100k mile warranty

EDIT: Attached To The Bottom of This Post Is A PDF Called "Complete Fender Audio Disassembly" Which Will Show You How To Take The Panels Off To Get To The Auto Start Stop Switch

 

ELIMINATOR - NOW WORKING

If you've been following this thread you'll know this is Option #3. For me it really is a Toss Up between #2 and #3. With #2 the A.S.S. is ALWAYS off and with #3 you have the option to turn A.S.S. On or Off. Option #1 and #2 are both Free and #3 costs about $40

Anyways, THIS IS THE ELIMINATOR YOU WANT - They May As Well Put "Works With 3rd Gen Frontier" In The Title Now

Amazon.com: Auto Start Stop Delete/Disable/Eliminator for Nissan Series,Automatic Stop&Start Engine System Cancel Device Contrl Cable (for X-Trail 14-21) : Electronics

Amazon.com: Auto Start Stop Delete/Disable/Eliminator for Nissan Series,Automatic Stop&Start Engine System Cancel Device Contrl Cable (for X-Trail 14-21) : Electronics

www.amazon.com

I made a mistake on the first attempt with the Eliminator. The 1st 2 Methods work just like i said - BUT the Auto Start Stop Eliminator ALSO WORKS! I had it hooked up to a constant hot at the fuse panel. It needs to be hooked up to switched power. Once i hooked it up to the "Dealer OPT (ACC)" The Eliminator started working just as its supposed to. After 3 Seconds the switch pulse gets sent and turns On the switch, A.S.S. is turned Off, and the orange light shines. This Eliminator remembers your last selection as well. So,if you kill the truck with A.S.S. ON - the next time you start it will be ON and no orange light. So anyways, IT WORKS!!!. The box it came in also had an orange plastic panel puller to help you take the dash pieces out which takes just a couple minutes.

Anyways, It's truly Plug & Play. The Connections are a perfect fit and its wired up perfectly. You'll just have to route and probably extend your power wire a little. Mine was too short.

I just purchased another new Un Molested Eliminator. I'll save this current one thats been half way dismantled for a back up

EDIT: see next post about changing the fuse size for the eliminator

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but is free)

EDIT: Attached To The Bottom of This Post Is A PDF Called "Complete Fender Audio Disassembly" Which Will Show You How To Take The Panels Off To Get To The Auto Start Stop Switch
OR
Look At This PIc of The Teardown Process:

 

The Eliminator has 2 Fuse slots. 1 for the fuse you've pulled and plugged the eliminator into and another for the actual Auto Start Stop Switch. The Eliminator came with a single 10 amp fuse i'm guessing is for the Eliminator. This is insanely high as that switch in low voltage and runs directly to the Computer. I went and bought 2 amp mini fuse from O'reilly's. The eliminator takes Low Profile fuses but the mini fuse worked fine. 2 Amps is more than enough. If they made a .5 or 1 Amp fuse i would've put that in there instead but 2 is as low as these fuses go that i'm aware of.

Bought an assortment pack of Low Profile Fuses on Amazon for 5 bucks. This new frontier is the first time i've seen them. I have a whole sandwich ziplock full of the Micro Fuses i picked up from the junkyard but have none of the Low Profile:

Amazon.com

 

The A.S.S. system has not bugged me; for a few reasons. One, I only have a few thousand miles on the truck and I can drive for fifty miles and not have to stop. However; now, even when I stop at the bottom of the mtn to turn onto a main highway and it activates I notice it.

I do have some questions.
One, if the jumper wire works; as it appears too, there is really no need for the eliminator. In fact, I would consider the eliminator a possible problem since it is made by an unknown company and adding a circuit board, powered by an ignition circuit, into the equation might be a problem in the future; and might not be; however, who wants to be the one who finds out it is a problem. (I'm thinking of a possible fire more than just a possible sudden failure to work.)

However, just a jumper wire jumping over two contacts to supply a ground signal to a BCM circuit appears to be the safest route. When the BCM senses that circuit is grounded it stops the A.S.S. (hard to add periods after those letters) from operating. Pretty simple and at this time appears to be a great solution.

I will say all is great info and maybe someday, I will pull that switch out and add the jumper wire; maybe after I do the first oil change next week.

EDITED to fix my poor grammar; not enough coffee.

 

The A.S.S. system has not bugged me; for a few reasons. One, I only have a few thousand miles on the truck and I can drive for fifty miles and not have to stop. However; now, even when I stop at the bottom of the mtn to turn onto a main highway and it activates I notice it.

I do have some questions.
One, if the jumper wire works; as it appears too, there is really no need for the eliminator. In fact, I would consider the eliminator a possible problem since it is made by an unknown company and adding a circuit board, powered by an ignition circuit, into the equation might be a problem in the future; and might not be; however, who wants to be the one who finds out it is a problem. (I'm thinking of a possible fire more than just a possible sudden failure to work.)

However, just a jumper wire jumping over two contacts to supply a ground signal to a BCM circuit appears to be the safest route. When the BCM senses that circuit is grounded it stops the A.S.S. (hard to add periods after those letters) from operating. Pretty simple and at this time appears to be a great solution.

I will say all is great info and maybe someday, I will pull that switch out and add the jumper wire; maybe after I do the first oil change next week.

EDITED to fix my poor grammar; not enough coffee.

There is an even easier method. Cut off a zip tie, squeeze it in between the bezel around the button and the button. It works fine. The light stays on telling you you have turned the system off, the grey icon in the dash display shows it is off and you don't have to take the switch out at all to defeat the A.S.S.

 

BUMP - I see people asking about the eliminator on another popular thread - I copy & Pasted my answer to put this thread back on the top of the stack since its on Page 3 Now and it has the actual answers as to how to shut the Auto Start Stop Off.

Copy & Pasted
i figured it out weeks ago and made a thread Dedicated to Shutting the A.S.S. Off. There's 3 different ways to Shut The A.S.S. off. The Eliminator which i think is universal for Nissans will work. I have linked the specific one on amazon i tried. What i like best is doing what the Eliminator does and just put a tiny piece of jumper wire in between the 2 wires that the Eliminator connects when you push the button. That eliminator comes with 10amp Fuses which is WAAAY TOO MUCH. I put a 2 AMP in place and that my friend is still WAAAAAY Too much. That A.S.S. switch runs through the computer. I don't wan't to FVCK AROUND AND FIND OUT if i'm damaging my computer with some chinese adapter which does work as i stated earlier. ALl that eliminator does is make a connection between 2 ground wires of the harness that plugs into the A.S.S. switch. So best thing is to just put a little piece of wire connecting those 2 pins - it requires no cutting at all

I show all the diagrams, pictures, and videos of what i did and a specific link to the Eliminator i bought on Amazon. Plugging in the Eliminator and inserting the wire to do what the eliminator does takes the same amount of time.

Also in that thread is the Wiring Schematics for all 3rd Gens. I actually bought the ESM - The Service Manual that the Nissan Techs Use which is how i figured it all out with the ESM's Wiring Diagarams

Link to full thread (the thread you're on now):
https://www.clubfrontier.org/thread...4-complete-wiring-schematics-from-the-official-nissan-esm-a-s-s-deleted.387547/

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but is free)

Teardown Image:

 

Yes, let's keep this to the forefront since there appears to be three ways.

One is suspect due to an unknown part being added into the mix; one is to jump the wires as you describe and most likely that might have been the way I would have gone, except, the simple tie strap end popped up, I tried it, and it turns off the AS* system the minute the truck is started. And the black tie strap in a black hole is next to impossible to see, unless you know where it is.

But I am totally with you on the fact the system can be disabled, either with an unknown part, by moving wires around or sticking a piece of plastic to jam the switch.

However, there appears to be so many people on this forum who continue to say it cannot be bypassed and many of those don't even have a mid-year '23 or later to even try; they just like to jump in as experts on a subject they are not experts.

I concluded last night that I would avoid this subject, but had to post here, since I believe keeping this subject alive is a good thing for us, who have been damned with having this AS* on our vehicles.

I will also note, that even though this did not bug me that much, after I turned it off, Ii realized it bugged me more than I thought. And in the past few weeks, been in other vehicles that have the system and the Frontier restarted the engine and it vibrated the entire vehicle like the start of a mechanical bull; whereas, a ride in a new Hyundai Tucson and a Colorado ZR2 the Frontier's restart at a red light was extremely intrusive compared to the others. The Colorado you could feel, but did not vibrate like a mechanical bull, the Hyundai, I could not feel the restart.

 

Yes, let's keep this to the forefront since there appears to be three ways.

One is suspect due to an unknown part being added into the mix; one is to jump the wires as you describe and most likely that might have been the way I would have gone, except, the simple tie strap end popped up, I tried it, and it turns off the AS* system the minute the truck is started. And the black tie strap in a black hole is next to impossible to see, unless you know where it is.

But I am totally with you on the fact the system can be disabled, either with an unknown part, by moving wires around or sticking a piece of plastic to jam the switch.

However, there appears to be so many people on this forum who continue to say it cannot be bypassed and many of those don't even have a mid-year '23 or later to even try; they just like to jump in as experts on a subject they are not experts.

I concluded last night that I would avoid this subject, but had to post here, since I believe keeping this subject alive is a good thing for us, who have been damned with having this AS* on our vehicles.

I will also note, that even though this did not bug me that much, after I turned it off, Ii realized it bugged me more than I thought. And in the past few weeks, been in other vehicles that have the system and the Frontier restarted the engine and it vibrated the entire vehicle like the start of a mechanical bull; whereas, a ride in a new Hyundai Tucson and a Colorado ZR2 the Frontier's restart at a red light was extremely intrusive compared to the others. The Colorado you could feel, but did not vibrate like a mechanical bull, the Hyundai, I could not feel the restart.

Thanks for the feedback. It was your comment that swayed me to go the jumper route as you said "however, who wants to be the one who finds out it is a problem. (I'm thinking of a possible fire more than just a possible sudden failure to work.)" I'm sure there's a work around for your problem with the jumper wire or just a way to make it work stay put for you. As stated in my last post maybe try some smaller wire. It sounds like you're saying the white locking tab flipped up. Is that correct?
White Locking Tab Flipped Up

I notice my locking tab held down much better with some 20-22 gauge speaker wire. I mean, even smaller than that would work just fine too since it's just a ground that's measured in milliamps i believe. 1 thing that comes to mind is to zip tie that White Locking Tab shut. Get everything the way you want and zip tie that bad boy.

You mention it being hard to hit the receptacle that the black wire is pinned in if understood that correctly. Get a good set of eyes in there and just tell them to cram the wire in. If you're having trouble seeing then i guess some solder would be out of the question. I just crammed wire down into both holes. I have my factory fog light switch on my 1st gen cramed in the back of the harness just like we're talking about for easily 5 years or more. I liked the idea better than cutting and wire crammed into the back of the harness just fine.

What size wire are you using? Do you know? But just based off what you've said i'd say to put a zip tie around that harness to keep white locking tab closed.. Getting everything in plalce and shooting just a bit of hot glue in place may work too plus hot glue isn't permanent. Hold well but can be pulled right off.

The eliminator itself does work tho and tons of people use them so maybe reconsider on that but sorry man. Hate to hear you tried it and it actually worked but just wouldn't stay put.

Well just let me know if you need some help. I know i sound like a broken record but i think a smaller piece of wire may be your answer. You may still be in business just need the right tool for the job. It's cool you tired though.

Then again there's always the sure fire cut & splice method but personally, i'd wait for m warranty to be up before i did that. A T- Tap would work too. That may not be a bad idea since its easily removabe and noby would would know it was there.

 

If you're having a problem with the Jumper Wire method my suspicion is you're using too thick of a wire. Use a very small wire like a 20 or 22 gauge and stuff it into the slot that the pin goes into. Cram it in there. Each pin spot has its own rectangular receptacle/housing for a rectangular pin. There is space left in the receptacle even with the pin in to CRAM some SMALL WIRE IN IT . Cram 1 end of a 1 inch wire into the pin 5 (black wire) receptacle and then the other end of the wire into the receptacle on pin 7 (white wire). The wire will fit super nice and snug and will not come out.

Tiny wire is king. Its tiny, plenty of room for it to fit, its only an inch or so long total, and has a protective sheathing around it. The wire in the above pic is probably 16 gauge. I swapped out to 20-22 gauge and thought it worked better. Either 16 or 20 gauge is small enough to cram into the back of the connector, crinkle up, and make a good connection. Remember, we're just trying to get a light ground signal sent
20-22 Gauge

Teardown Image:

Quick Links To This Thread
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like the Eliminator but is free)

 

I'm just thinking this thread might need to be kept active as more and more people come on board with the AS* system. As I have stated, in the beginning it really didn't bother me, then I turn it off with the tie strap and I realized it did bother me. Hard to explain. (Later driving in some other vehicle with the AS* system, I realized how the Frontier restart was rough/harsh/not as smooth as other vehicles.)

Your method of jumping a wire between pins 5 (ground) to pin 7 (BCM signal wire) makes perfect sense, the BCM sees that circuit open (and engine is running) it allows the AS* system to run, when the driver pushes the button the signal is grounded and the BCM notes the driver turned the system off. In effect, that is actually what the tie strap end (or any other item that can be mounted between the switch and the bracket to JAM the switch closed) does the same function. Start the vehicle and the BCM notes the grounded circuit and turns the AS* off. Since the BCM reacts in milliseconds to most inputs it appears to the human to be a smooth transition; not even noticeable.

As I noted in my previous post there appeared to be a lot of people discussing this in another thread and stating the AS* cannot be defeated; and yet it can. Your method or the method I am using from a suggestion by "Sgthawker" work, or at least your method should work just as great, I have just not tried it. Hopefully, some others who have will come here and post.

This should end the statements by people saying the AS* cannot be defeated when in effect it can be; at least in vehicles built during model year 2023/24. Knowing that someone from Nissan is reading this forum as I would bet a good size steak they do, they might decide to take out the old fashioned mechanical switch being used and use an electronic switch making it a lot more difficult to defeat. Depends on how strong they feel on this subject of keeping this functionig vs. just getting that extra credit for CAFE. Personally, I do not know, personally, I do not care.

That's all I'm saying on this subject; tired of beating a dead horse for no reason.

People will do what they want on this subject while conintuing to complain, some will continue to deny the truth, some will follow one of the two known ways to shut the AS* down and be happy, while some will eventually stop careing anymore about this subject.

 

Or you could take the LITERAL 10 minutes, Jumper the 2 ground wires that make a connection when you push the switch or add the Eliminator which does the same thing.

Adding a 1 inch jumper wire to the 2 ground pins on the back of the switch harness makes the switch always ON but only when the truck is started. So no need to Push the switch or Cram anything in it.

Going on 10 Weeks Now Since I Did The Mod. Notice the truck is off, Start Button is Pushed, and A.S.S. Switch LIghts Up. I'll take that over cramming something in my switch anyday.

Post #12 Shows You How

Teardown Image:

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but is free)

 

Harshness might be gear ratio and "big" engine

 

Not sure exactly what you mean. I'm all ears

 

As a big fan of the VVCS de-pin/unplug group, I would go this route. Kills two birds with one stone.
Both systems are idiotic IMO. Just glad my 22 doesn't have the @.$.$. feature or its added hardware. My two cents.

 

Auto start/stop is so frustrating. On my newly purchased used 2021 Chevy Traverse, eliminating it was as simple as plugging a $15 hood switch bypass harness in between the hood switch and the switch harness cable. No codes that I can see with my reader and the hood open message still works. No more auto stop/start.

I then tried one on my daughter's 2016 8th gen Malibu and it doesn't work. It indeed eliminates stop/start, but it immediately lit the MIL with a hood switch circuit range code. No go as it's due for yearly state inspection and you won't pass with the MIL on.

 

All you need to do is identify which 2 wires make a connection when the switch is pushed and put a jumper wire in between them so they have constant connection. WHen the car is started the switch will automatically turn on as if you pushed the switch but you don't have to push the switch because the connection thats made when the switch is pushed is already made. That's all a switch does is bridge 2 connections to make 1 so that power can flow.

Or just buy the eliminator on Amazon for 15 Bucks. SIMPLE

Amazon.com: Auto Start Stop Disable/Delete/Eliminator/Disabler Compatible with Malibu (2016-2018)/Chevrolet Equinox (2017-2018)/Cadillac XT5 (2016-2018) and Cruze (2015-2018)(Big Plug) : Automotive

Buy Auto Start Stop Disable/Delete/Eliminator/Disabler Compatible with Malibu (2016-2018)/Chevrolet Equinox (2017-2018)/Cadillac XT5 (2016-2018) and Cruze (2015-2018)(Big Plug): Remote Starters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

This Thread Deserves A Sticky - Just Saying

Putting This To Bed. It takes Less Than 10 Minutes to Disable the A.S.S. - Jumper Wire For The WIN. Jumper Wire Is In SOLID and Would Have To Be Yanked Out Which Is Not Going To Happen. Use A Small 20 - 22 Gauge Wire

Video From Start to finish - 10 Minutes. How To Add Jumper Wire + Tear Down - Start To Finish and Disable AUTO START STOP 3rd Gen Frontier. I went back to make the video bc i forgot 2 Philips Screws that hold the bottom of the AC Unit in place. Video shows me putting the screws back in but not taking them out. The USB A is powered by a MINI USB Connection NOT Micro USB as stated in the Video. The USB C connection is a branch off of the MINI USB Cable. MINI USB = USB A in speed and bandwidth but is just a different connection type. There is no true USB C in the vehicle. For the purposes of this video nothing to do with USB is of a concern. Just clearing it up.

Quick Link
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like a 2022 would but is free)
Post #12 Post#13
Post #34 - Start To Finish "How To" Video (Takes Less Than 10 Minutes)

Other Methods
Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like ta 2022 would but is free)
Post #44 - Jumper Wire + Completely Deleting The A.S.S. Button All Together

 

How To Add Jumper Wire...

Has anyone verified yet if adding a jumper wire voids Nissan's warranty?

Or... should folks doing this remove the jumper wire and put things back how they were if they had to take their truck to the dealer for service?

I'd imagine this would be THE question for those with trucks still under warranty

 

Auto Start Stop Delete - 3 Methods - Starts at Post #4JPTB

First Off, If you attempt this and destroy something that's on you. I am in no way telling people what they should or shouldn't do. This is just what i've done and all 3 Methods have worked for me. I will not be responsible for anything YOU DO.

Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like the Eliminator but is free)

In this thread i'll simply be posting the different methods i tried and got to work. You will see the thought process as i'm going through the process and figuring things out. For those that like to learn and understand exactly what it is you're doing to your expensive vehicle - EXCELLENT and thanks for taking the time to get understanding. For those of you that just want the answers spoon fed to you without having to think or learn about anything i'll try & make quick to the point "how to's" in my post where i can.

EDIT: Attached To The Bottom of Several Posts Throughout This Thread Is A PDF Called "Complete Fender Audio Disassembly" Which Will Show You How To Take The Panels Off To Get To The Auto Start Stop Switch

Or Take A Look At This PIc. So Easy a Caveman Could Do It.

3RD GEN '22 '23 '24 Complete Official Nissan Wiring Schematics

This Thread Deserves A Sticky - Just Saying

Putting This To Bed. It takes Less Than 10 Minutes to Disable the A.S.S. - Jumper Wire For The WIN. Jumper Wire Is In SOLID and Would Have To Be Yanked Out Which Is Not Going To Happen. Use A Small 22 Gauge Wire

Video From Start to finish - 10 Minutes. How To Add Jumper Wire + Tear Down - Start To Finish and Disable AUTO START STOP 3rd Gen Frontier

Quick Link
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like the Eliminator but is free)
Post #12 and Post#13

Other Methods
Quick Links
Method #1 - DISCONNECT VVCS Sensor at Negative Battery Terminal
Method #2 - A.S.S. ELIMINTATOR
METHOD 3 - JUMPER WIRE (works just like the Eliminator but is free)

 

I have tool that works on all makes and models, IFBP tool, when I’m feeling mean I use my MFBP tool, they work great every time. Maybe we start a program for A..aholics😁

 

Was At Harbor Freight Today and They Have A Few Panel Puller Sets For Pulling Dash Panels. I love Harbor Freight, It's a Mans Paradise. Its Basically an Auto Mechanic Tool Shop. They need to change their name to "China Direct" though as it'd be more accurate to what that place really is. I mean come on, You're not fooling me with old American Industrial names like Pitsburgh and U.S. General or even Bauer - The Tools are decent and their ICON line is not cheap and very high quality tools. I saw a 3rd party disinterested Test where The ICON Torque Wrench actually beat the Snap-On - The ICON didn't destroy Snap-On but it was a little bit better but i digress

Anyways, Here's The Panel Puller Sets They Have on The Cheap and Will Definitely Get The Job Done I'd Go with the Blue or Yellow set.
For the purposes of the specific panels being pulled to access the A.S.S. i'd go with the Blue one but they Yellow one would work too. I personally like the skinny Blue one in the middle and the skinny Blue one on the end.

 

I have the blue and yellow with the skinny yellow one modified slightly. I already had the yellow but the blue was on sale with some diff tools so I grabbed it.

 

Hell yeah, i love Harbor Freight, it's awesome. Everytime i go in there i leave with more than i intended to. Like a lot more. Like today i just went in to get some Nitrile Gloves and left with $225 in tools 😆 - I do this every time. I've just about bought all i wanted out of there though. I have quite the tool collection. For the weekend warrior their tools are just fine. I've got tools i bought from there in 2006 that i still use and work perfectly to this day. Can't beat that place with what you get for the price.

Side Note. I have 14,914 miles on my truck. I'm due for an Oil change at the Dealership. THEY DO look for any reason to disqualify your warranty and i got the 8yr/96k mile warranty and i'm not trying to jeopardize that. Think i'm going to lengthen that Bridge Wire and have a quick disconnect on it and make it easy access. Maybe in the glove box or pull the lower panel that takes a minute or less to get into and make the disconnection before it goes to a Dealership for anything. They'll get in my truck and notice that A.S.S. light is always on when truck is in ACC mode or started. I don't want any investigation done or questions asked so tomorrow i'll be doing what i said - Lengthening the Wire and adding a quick disconnect. They'll never know and if for some reason it has to go in for a good amount of time i'll take the 5 minutes and pull the wire completely.

 

Reminds me... had the combo meter (inst cluster) replaced recently and I had forgotten the variable voltage doodad connector was dangling there - but they probably don't care. They didn't even open the hood to disconnect the battery.