I'll put my money on either of 2 things. Either the catalytic converters went bad, or the negative battery cable is loose. When the cats bad (can happen while driving) all of these lights come on at the same time and need to be reset. Then, you should only get the CEL light telling you to replace the cats. But since your not even at 5K miles, it should be something as simple as the battery. Check the battery, specifically the negative cable, and make sure it is really tight. Did these codes just come on and nothing else happened? Did the RPM's jump really high, then low, then high?

 

No, the lights just came on. No engine rpm changes. Initially the diff lock engaged... Which brought a new level of excitement to my morning.

 

I had this exact problem with my 2010 SE, all of the lights came on except the diff lock (since SE didnt come with it). Turned out that a sensor inside the ABS unit (I believe a yaw sensor) went bad. They replaced the unit and the problem was cured. My truck had similar mileage as yours if I remember correctly. Good luck.

EDIT: Check this out, I went and found my old post it was 12/20/10 and the mileage was; you guessed it 4800 miles!!

 

Can you link that thread, I would be interested in reading it.

 

Im interested in this aswell. I have had all the same lights on forever, except diff lock as I don't have it. And was able to use 4x4, until I titan swapped my front suspension. Now I try to use 4x and the little drive-line pic just flashes and the 4x4 warning light comes on. Checked the original code way back when, and came up with some ABS actuator problem code. I can't recall the code right now. So maybe instead of a $1400 ABS pump, I just need said part you speak of.

 

Dealership says it is a faulty diff lock sensor and has one on order.

 

Is this a sensor actually installed in the rear end/diff?
My Diff-lock light has been flickering/going solid in 2wd on the high and acting like a total idiot in that manner the past few days. The diff lock is not actually engaging at all though.It disables VDC while it does this. Presuming that VDC is programmed to disable if the system sees that the diff-lock sensor sees the "locked" position. If Diff-lock light goes solid and then I make a sharp turn, it will set off the ABC/SLIP lights as I am sure that ABS/ABLS because the system doesn't expect to see differentiations of speed between the rear left and right wheels when the diff-lock sensor is seeing "locked" position. Those lights will stay illuminated until I restart the engine/soft reset as I have read most other's do the same under this situation.

Changed my rear fluid, looked a bit milky-gross, so there must have been water in there. It was great and acted up again, I pulled over, went to 4Lo, swiched the locker on, the light went solid as it should, everything looked good, threw some throttle into it and the locker is definitely working great. I engaged and disengaged it several times and it seems that since then, it's been working great but I'm going to do another gear oil flush quickly.