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Just had a look at mazworx. How much power can that stage 2 block handle?
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
the built motor was open deck, the closed deck conversion helps but the head fasteners are an issue. Even with the closed deck and whatever stud/bolt the heads lift.
 
And that was lifting around 600?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
And that was lifting around 600?
Nah around 900 or so. There’s a thread on the370z by a guy named spooler that’s been really open documenting his built motor trials. Long *** thread but the info is in there
The stock vq37 will do 600whp reliably once torque is kept in check and under 450
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Sorry I haven't updated this. I got the LS in for some mock up work.

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The new radiator support and tow bar. It's made from 1/4" plate, 1 1/4" and 1" tubing

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All of the coolers mocked up and mounted in their new home. I intend to be able to hot lap the car at the 1/8 mile track so it got a 34 row oil cooler, 10 row transmission cooler and a 7 row powersteering cooler. The intake is a modified Sikky tube to get down in the front bumper area.

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Shot from above showing the expansion & reservoir tank combo as well as the VTA catch can I made. The radiator itself will have a 0psi cap and the bleed nipple will go to the expansion tank, the other 4an hoses are from the steam ports.

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The rear of the expansion tank has a 12an bung that connects to the 3/4" heater hose nipple on the water pump.

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Oil cooler plumbed to the thermostat/relocation block

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Fuel feed line ran, I had to convert to a dead head setup with the regulator which barely clears in it's original location.

All in all the Sikky kit made it pretty simple, I did have to BFH the top of the transmission tunnel to clear the shifter relocation assembly and 2 spots on the secondary fire wall.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Been a while for updates on this one. I had a customer car on my lift for the past 5 months so my Z had to sleep outside for a while.

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I installed the drive shaft so that I could start mocking up the exhaust.


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Cheated a bit and used a prefab X pipe from Pypes. It's 409 and not 304 like the rest of the exhaust but it saved so much time.

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Finished up the passenger side last night, once I get the last part tacked the real fun starts, the compound cuts I'm going to have to figure out to get the exhaust cut outs to bypass the muffler and exit through the exhaust tips are going to be such a pain.

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Lastly I got the clutch slipper lines bent & flared. Mounted it and also plumbed it to the clutch master.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
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My brother got me some purge plugs for christmas so I tried them out boxing day and finish welded the mid pipe. Ironically I still had to use foil on 2 ends since I only had two 3" plugs.

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A view of the cutting and BFH'ing required for the sikky swap kit and a TR6060 manual transmission. The cut at the top of the transmission tunnel was needed to clear the larger bell housing, I have a template to cut some caps for the holes. The secondary fire walls need some massaging for the heads and the OEM coil pack's & brackets.

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One of the rocker arm mounting points got stripped out when whatever went down, went down. I did re-tap for a helicoil but I managed to **** that up and didn't get the 2 inserts aligned properly. The insert at the bottom of the hole caught on the valve spring compressor bolt, so now I have to hope I can EZ out the helicoils.

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Comparing the new BTR dual springs & Ti retainers to the unknown beehive springs and steel retainers. I think the old stuff was from Howard since it had a cam and push rods from them.

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I decided to remove the other cylinder head and continue on changing the valve springs. The BTR shaft rocker conversion and Summit HDR push rods went in with a new OEM head gasket. There's a million reviews for each style but after seeing the bronze bushings I pressed out worn and shot to ****, I am glad the BTR kit uses needle bearings.


Tools wise I used the Trick flow valve spring compressor (p/n 90307) and Summit trunnion bearing installation kit (p/n SME-906011), I know you can do this with sockets but having the stop built into the tool so you don't press the bushing too far in made this so easy.

Wiring specialties wired up a 4 pin alternator connector even though I specified everything was from a 2011 Camaro. Waiting on their reply as to my options for converting to a 2 pin, if it ends up a pain in the *** I'll just buy a 4 pin regulator/brush holder and swap that out.
 
Glad to see some progress on this one! Welds look awesome man! How much power are you shooting for? If your old vq setup was stuck around 800, I would assume you want more?
 
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Nice color on those welds too
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
Thanks! I those were fusion welds, I've never run into an issue doing them to the v band rings and it saves me on material.

For the moment I am just aiming to get it running NA with the mostly stock long block. I think with the electric water pump, intake, long tubes, exhaust, cam & valve train upgrades it should make around 460-470whp. I'll be happy with that for a while so I can actually enjoy it for more than 2 weeks :LOL:

At the track the nitrous will get me around 650, I do plan on getting some drop in pistons and rods and sending the heads to Texas speed for their port work and to mill to bump the compression. Eventual goal is as close to 500whp NA as I can get.
 
Sounds awesome. Thatll be a pretty rowdy street car with 500hp plus the torque that motor will make. Sounds like a ton of fun. Did you use pulse on those welds? The beads look super consistant.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
No, no pulse. I've never gotten used to that to be honest, getting the amperage set right has been a challenge for me, I'll give it another shot though. I'm self taught so I am sure I have some bad habits that are muscle memory now
 
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