Bought the truck for $200 not running so I used the money that I saved to go over everything, runs great now bone dry with no leaks
01 v6 2wd crew cab, synthetic Amsoil in everything
DT long tube headers(wrapped), 2.5 inch full exhaust no cats back to a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and flowmaster big block 70 series
Volant cold air intake (which I'll be getting rid of when I go forced induction)
JWT S2 cams and springs and a complete top end rebuild with OEM parts
Did the clutch (luk), flywheel, release bearing and rear seal while I was in there(was leaking)
Also did all u joints, trans and rear end seals, carrier bearing while I was in there
2 inch spacers all around for stance on OEM wheels with 265/70/16 Yokohama geolandars
Poly bushings front to rear including leaf spring bushings
Bilstein shocks all around (stock ones were toast), sway away torsion bars and leveled out the front with just low profile bumpstops. The front is higher than the rear but I like the stace
Replaced entire 3rd brake light with a modified led assembly
Replaced rear lights with eBay chrome housings with all led bulbs, rewired the 3157 sockets for dual filament so I have 4 bulbs (2 per side) always on with driving lights, the one set get brighter with turn signals... Then the others get brighter with brakes
Replaced front headlight assemblies with eBay chrome projector housings and running a set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for low beams, another set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for high beams, rewired turn signals for switchback led.. fogs and switchbacks are always on with driving lights.
Put in a diode so that my low beams stay on when I switch to highs instead of alternating
Foglight projectors with 3000k hid 55watt ballasts
All interior lights including instrument cluster upgraded to led
When I had the heads off for the cams I painted the engine bay and all the parts blue and silver
Also painted my entire undercarriage hammerite black
Gauges - oil pressure, wideband o2, boost (for my next upcoming project, t3/t4 hybrid mid mount turbo with fuel and ignition controlled by AEM FI/C)
Since i want to keep my expensive headers I'm fabricating a remote oil system - Oil feed coming from a 2 quart aluminum reservoir pressured by a turbowerx exa pump, gravity drained back into reservoir mounted lower than the turbo
I have all the parts just waiting for the time
The only things left until I either total the truck or blow the motor are the turbo and some bodywork. If the fi/c can give me a nice and rich AFR under boost and work my timing properly then I'll tackle the bodywork
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8.9:1 good candidate for boost, same compression as the vg33er (sc)My brother just changed the front shocks this afternoon. Had to chisel them off. Doing the rears tomorrow...hopefully. The truck is in another state, so I'll see if I can pick it up this weekend to bring it home to begin the processes of de-salting and rust-removal/proofing.
That said, I've seen that there's still quite a bit of adjustment in the torsion bars. Is it enough to level out the front? Have any of you done that?
What's the compression on a non-SC 3.3? Curious as to how much boost you plan to run.
There's a guy on Youtube that does supercharger to standard swaps, on Xterras, but it seems to work well for him. Don't know engine math, what hp would the higher comp pistons make. I seems he does a supercharger swap, to a none s/c engine. I'll try to find the videos. I am currently saving up for the Rancho 2 1/2" lift, won't do the back, should make it pretty even. I always liked that, sort of desert runner look, where the front is just a little taller than the rear. Like it's ready to pounce on something.Actually, the VG33E and VG33ER do have different compression ratios. Nissan advertised them as both at 8.9:1, but the factory service manual states differently. The VG33ER compression ration is actually slightly lower at 8.3:1. The pistons are different between the two engines. That said, people have still installed superchargers on the VG33E (non-SC) engines.
The thing to remember when raising the ride height using the torsion bars is that it also changes the camber and makes the ride a lot harsher.