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Discussion Starter #1
Hey yall. Ive got an 06 KC 4x4 6 speed with rear end problems. I noticed a whine comeing from the rear of the truck at around 40-45,000 miles. I changed the fluid in the same time frame. When I took it to the stealership they told me it was most likely my tires and I left it alone. Now Ive got about 85,000 miles with an axle seal leak and a funny clunking sound when I get off and on the throttle in 6th gear. I changed the diff fluid at about 82,000 miles and it was [email protected]#$%^. There were metel shavings on the magnetic drain plug and the fluid was nasty lookin. Since The seal is leaking I figured I'de check the fluid level to be sure it was toped off and it's already brown at 85,000 miles. I'll be honest, I can't believe it has'nt let loose yet but heres the best part. I purchased a 75,000 mile service plus warrenty when I bought the truck figuring since I've been complaining about this noise for so long they would take care of me, right? boy was I wrong. All my miles are highway driven I ocaisionaly tow trailers of variouse types, but in my eyes there's no way in hell my rear end should be kickin the bucket already, even if I never changed the fluid. I believe my rig has the M226 dana 44 axle, Is'nt this supposed to be a stout setup for this truck?? Sorry for the *****in, just tryin to figure my best route of rectifacation. I'm tryin to work Nissan at the moment. she's hangin in, but like I said, I can't believe it has'nt let loose. Any advice would be sweet. Thanks Sammy
 

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whine is usually a bearing goin out , being that your pinion seal is leaking im gonna guess its the pinion bearing , i just had this happen on the toyota axle i installed
the clunk maybe just a u-joint on the driveshaft if your lucky

have you gone thru any water above the axle?
 

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Yea, the m226 is nice but has a couple of flaws. Lets start with the spider gears that explode and cause the diff to fail. Then the axle seals that blow out since the expansion valve sucks and gets stuck in the closed position creating pressure inside the diff.

If I were you and nissan tell you to take a hike, I would buy a TruTrac and new axle seals and have a shop intall that for you. It will give you a limited slip in the rear and will replace the seals at the same time. You should also do the axle vent mod to prevent the build-up of pressure.

Also, if you search around here, you will find that you are not the only one to have issues but if you search the Titan forums, they blow parts of those diffs left and right, spiders explode and seals leak (pressure issue).
 

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the pressure problem is an easy fix , replace the vent or add a breather

m226 axle were sent from dana with a cap and nissan was supposed to replace it with a vent , some got replaced some didnt
 

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Are you sure about the cap/vent issue. I know it is true for when the axle is replaced (there is a TSB telling the dealer to transfer to old vent to the new axle) but it is a little hard to believe they came that way from the factory.

I guess it is just a Nissan stupidity thing or something.

On the change interval, I think it states around 30k since it is a "sealed" system but personally once a year is about right. Better safe then sorry in my book. Same thing goes for coolant and brake fluid and a drain/fill on the trans too.
 

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First a whine, then a whine clunk, anyone ever change the u-joints? What gear oil did you put in it? I am thinking 60k is the service interval, but I am to lazy to check right now. They told me mine needed to be replaced about 20k ago, but since I have no warranty I am running it for every inch it has in it:laugh:
 

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Are you sure about the cap/vent issue. I know it is true for when the axle is replaced (there is a TSB telling the dealer to transfer to old vent to the new axle) but it is a little hard to believe they came that way from the factory.

I guess it is just a Nissan stupidity thing or something.
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yep the m226 i bought from a member on here had the cap instead of vent
 

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That vent issue is just crazy. I guess Nissan was just being a dang slacker.

I also agree with the U-joint issue. The Nissan ones are non-serviceable so your only option is to replace them. Just do yourself a favor and use ones with Zerks. Just make sure you position the Zerk so that it is on the compression side and not tension. You don't want the joint to crack in half under hard acceleration or in a towing occasion.
 

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Hey guys. just an fyi, you can simply remove the cap, clean and replace. The service interval is 30,000. I'm highly disgruntled about this, all of my fathers chevys were sold with 200 k or better with out ever changing the diff fluid, and they werent showing signs of going either. The u joints gotta be good, the only play in the drive shaft is rotational. What are the spiders??? Rear ends are something I havent had the pleasure of playing with a whole lot. I used royal purple 75w 140 gear lube. I can only make it clunk in 6th gear at about 60 MPH getting off and back on throttle. But when I put it in 2nd at about 25-30 mph getting off and on the throttle makes the whole truck shimy and shake for a sec or two. It's funny, I dont abuse my rig. I might get a little loose getting on an onramp in the rain, and do the occaisional drifting in the snow but thats it. It is a truck and I use it. I used to beat the wholy hell out of my first truck (a danger ranger) and I'm talkin run the thing in reverse as fast as it would go, throw it in neutral, bounce it off the revlimiter and dump the clutch doing 30 mph in reverse. That truck took a brutal thrashing only a sixteen year old punk with a new licence could deliver. I'm not saying this rig should be bullet proof, but if youy're gonna build a truck build it to handle the duties a truck normally carries out.:talk2much:
 

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If you havn't been removing the cap every 1k and cleaning it, then it had enough time to built pressure and blow the seals.

The spiders are the small gears inside the diff that are installed in the carrier to allow each wheel to rotate at a different rate yet running off the same input. TerribleOne made a thread that linked to a UTube video that explained it fully and made a ton of sense.

The m226 is not a true d44 thou, you have to remember that. Nissan had them change it for their specs but in the process, didn't exactly make it bulletproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The check valve was undoubtedly the culprit. I just got back from the dealler and did my usual sneak into the shop to talk to the tech. When he drained the fluid to get a sample there was metel shavings in the fluid after ontly 3,000 on the fresh fluid, CHRIEST is all he said. Hopfully nissan will do whats right.
 

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I personally don't think Nissan owes you anything. 86k miles on your truck, admittedly didn't follow regular maintenance, and, most importantly, you chose not to buy the extended warranty that, I'm sure, was offered to you when you bought your truck. You took the risk and now you pay. It's pretty cut and dry...and fair. Sorry bud.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Point taken, but I did buy the 75,000 service plus warrenty. I took the truck in when I initially heard a whine at 45,000 miles and changed the fluid, wrote it off as my tires and never mentioned any breather that needed to be maintained. Then I notice a seal leaking when I changed the fluid at 82,000 and really started looking into the situation when I saw all the shavings in the drain plug. Bottom line the diff should not be failing, even if I had never done a thing to it, I've had several higher up's at nessan infinity tell me this. Just an fyi. Most of the people I know that drive pickup's never do any maintanence to there diffs and always put at least 200 +k on there rigs without a hitch. Call it lucky. Hopefully the whole picture is out there now I appologize.
 
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