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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Truck has 138,305 2 owner miles on it now and looks beautiful. Drove fantastic the 297 miles I've owned it then everything went nuts. Driver air bag light came on. Replaced the clock spring, then the DCV light came on. Drove it down the road and it went out. Now it has suddenly started to make a loud crunching sound, slows down, brake pedal feels like the anti skid is running a harsh cycle and the slip light comes on. Emailed the service department at the nissan dealer twice to see about and appointment and no return call or email. Also called and left a message with the receptionist who said they were busy and still no return call. Really cannot afford more than a diagnosis anyway as we are both retired with $890 a month social security. I loved the truck as it was smaller than our full size dodge and easy for my wife to get in and out but after reading forums for 2 weeks starting to have my doubts. Did order running boards for her to make it a bit easier to access. Tried to post in another forum but got a message I was not allowed. I pulled the wheel position sensors today and the rt rear was covered in rust, otherwise looks fine. Never been wrecked or under water. Always adult driven, originally a south Carolina truck so not a spot of rust. Can codes be read on this? Posted this and more in the introductions page. Loan value is $11,500 on this thing, bought it for $3000 and in less than 300 miles had repairs of $1500 before this. Hope to have it a few years but it might be cheaper to park it in a fence row for raccoons to sleep under at this rate. Haven't even burned 3/4 tank of premium yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated. d
 

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What year is it? Sorry just read in the intro forum it's a 2010. Do what the other poster suggested and get the codes read at autozone then go from there
 

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Looks like its a 2010? Did you buy this from a private seller?

If it was me (and you seem to have some knowledge about vehicles) i would buy my own code reader, even the $80 from harbor freight since the dealer is going to charge you $100 just to plug it in. You could at least see what codes you are being given.

There is no reason to run premium gas unless you like throwing money out the window.
 

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It could be a wheel sensor that went bad, a inexpensive code reader doesn't pick up those faults. My sensor had rusty chips on it and affer a good wiping it's all good again.
Did you take a good look at the sensor? There's a little square looking window on the tip bottom.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, pulled all 4 and looked at them Saturday. Rt Rear had chips. put it in turned the wheel pulled it out several times till it quit picking up chips. Thanks for the reply. d
 

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Mine was right rear too and chips were resulting from me pulling the axle to replace the seal and bearing. The abs system like yours kept testing and engaging but dimininished as the days passed. From going on multiple times a day the light came on once a day or so and now has been off for a few days.
Did you pull the rotor and blow out all the debris?


Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, pulled the rotors. Took it to O'Reilly and AutoZone a few minutes ago and they said no codes, though some say the OBDll cannot read them. Transmission pan gasket started leaking like crazy. Went by the Nissan dealer to see if they have one. Have to order it. Takes 3 days and $30. Talked to the shop manager. He used to work for me 16 and 17 years ago. He is going to come by the house and leave his truck and take mine to work after I get the transmission gasket replaced and take it back to the shop to diagnose it.
 
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Hope it all works out well and not much more money needed to correct it. Good luck.

Clint
 

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Keep us posted when you get an update. Maybe your bud will help.
 

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2010 model? This is off-topic, but if the radiator was never replaced, may want to bypass the auto trans cooler.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, Trans engine radiator cooler has been bypassed. Still has factory tow package auxiliary cooler. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update

Truck has been at the dealer all day. They hooked it up to the computer and reset the steering to center. Drove it in many turns and no issue. While delivering back to us tonight the VDC and skid lights came back on and it chattered the brakes in 1 turn. Mechanic said all he can do now is start removing parts and testing them one at a time at $100 an hour and replace some of the more expensive parts ( computer) to see if that does it. Supposed to have driven fine to our house with no driving issues, just the lights are on. Said maybe it could be fixed for $300 if they find the issue quick and a cheap part or it could cost $5000. No way to know till it is found and fixed. I think I will put a brake light switch on it and see what that does. Cheap parts first. if not, another one to take the plates off of and park in the weeds.
 

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Autozone can't check "C" code, which are ABS trouble codes. Monitoring the speed sensor datastream on a capable scan tool while driving and duplicating the problem may show something. Wheel bearings have been known to cause similar issues on these vehicles, so it may be worth jacking up the vehicle and checking for any play in the wheel bearings (it doesn't take much), especially if the incident is occurring during turns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Took it to AutoZone and O'Reilly twice. They said they could not read those particular codes. Has been jacked up and calipers removed and speed sensors removed 2 times to check wheel bearings. Thanks for the suggestions though.
 

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Took it to AutoZone and O'Reilly twice. They said they could not read those particular codes. Has been jacked up and calipers removed and speed sensors removed 2 times to check wheel bearings. Thanks for the suggestions though.
My bad....I meant to say "can't" and corrected my post. You need to find a shop or dealer with the proper equipment to read "C" codes.
 

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Sadly today's techs are just parts replacers and keep trying on your dime until it works. A real old school mechanic fixes a vehicle and relies on ingenuity and skills and constant learning to get there. Want to see fun, my brother inlaw takes a vehicle in and if, like your trip to the shop is still not correct he will refuse to pay for the trial and error session and if parts were changed he tells them to leave them on there as they are supposed to be experts in their brand of vehicles and his wallet isn't open to be abused. Why should the customer pay for a wrong diagnosis? If i hadn't seen him do it in person I'd think he was full of it.
I was out of state and not even remotely by choice had to have a dealership work on my truck, it was a simple ujoint replacement and the "tech" whined about trouble getting the caps off the joint. The simplest job and a new dealership shop full of tools and still complained.
Hope it turns around for you soon.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, the parts replacer bit I find troubling. I always rebuilt everything and kept my own parts inventory and service manuals on every machine I own. I have spare brakes, hoses, filters, reground crankshafts, rebuilt cylinder heads, cylinder liner kits, gasket kits, transmission clutch packs for every machine. Every major breakdown is on a holiday weekend when you cannot get parts. I used to have my own lathe and make parts if I needed. I have rebuild parts for the turbochargers, starters, alternators, injector pumps, an injector tester and spare injectors. Nobody has parts in stock, always a we can order it, they replace entire components instead of rebuild. I feel it is a very wasteful society now. I've had one computer controlled Chrysler and the Jag. Both were issue free. In the month I've had this thing it has been one issue after another and a money pit. Hard to believe that each part has to be removed and tested with an ohm meter in today's plug and diagnose. My wife's washing machine can self diagnose and display it on a cell phone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
update 07/21/16

Dealer said the only option remaining to figure this unrepairable undiagnosable Datsun is 1 piece at a time so I am in parts replacement mode. Today, both front hub assemblies, both front wheel sensors, both front struts and 1 rotor while I was at it. Took it for a 2 mile drive. At about 300 feet the slip light went out, about 1000 feet the VDC light went out and I was tickled. First curve slip light was back and still comes on and brakes activate every turn. Tomorrow will waste another day tearing into the back end. Pull axles, drop dif cover and such. If it did not drive so nice when it works correctly I would park this thing in a fence row and let the weeds have it.
 
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