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Why buy rims?

14K views 33 replies 16 participants last post by  raine 
I'm running stock 16 aluminum SV rims on my 2016 CCLWB with a Camper, tires are BFG KO2. Why does it seam like everyone is running out and buying rims?
Does a larger rim save weight? Enhance or compromise ride. Any thoughts or articles are appreciated.
It could save weight (depending on materials), it might enhance traction (with the right tire), it can compromise ride (if you go with a larger wheel diameter but lower profile tire)... but for the most part, wheels are just part of customizing to get that individual look you want for your truck. If bone stock is fine with you, there's absolutely nothing wrong with that (maybe aside from that it will just look like everyone else's bone stock truck.)
 
I needed a bit more clearance for my bump stops.
I don't think there is a problem with spacers as long as they are good quality( mine are made by "Bora").
Agreed, there's nothing wrong with using spacers if they are high quality. I've ran spacers on a few cars before (daily and track) and they were all from H&R, which I'm sure you know is a well known brand. Hub or lug-centric is a must, I wouldn't let a cheap, no-name slip-on spacer touch my vehicles ever ::smile::
 
How about balancing issues w/ aftermarket rims?
Is Road Force Balancing basically only needed as a last resort?
Fundamentally there's really nothing different when balancing aftermarket wheels compared to OEM. Also, I wouldn't call Roadforce balancing a "last resort"; if anything, to me a Roadforce balance is the best type of balance to get, especially if you're dealing with large volume, high profile A/T tires. Even so, for me there are a few things I pay attention to when dealing with balancing my aftermarket wheels:

1. The balancing machine itself: My wheel guy has a proper Hunter Roadforce balancer that has extra axle attachments to ensure that the center hub bore on my wheels do not get scratched or scuffed when he mounts the wheels to the balancer. Depending on your wheel design this might not mean much if it has a cap that covers the hub, but my Level 8's don't so this is important for me.

2. Wheel weight type and placement: Obviously you don't want a huge lead strip of balancing weights on your wheels, I'm fortunate that my wheel guy will put as little weight as needed behind a spoke (so it's not visible from the outside) to get to 0/0. If he has to add a little more, he will "match mount" it - where he actually un-beads the tire to re-mount it in a slightly different position, in order to try to get the tire weight to counter any balance issues with the wheel. This is part of a proper Roadforce balance, but many tire shops don't/don't want to do this, as it does mean more work; they just load up your wheel with more lead weight and then send you on your way. Luckily my wheel guy isn't one of those.

3. Lug nut torquing: My wheel guy always installs the lug nuts by hand, and uses a torque wrench to ensure correct tightness. He does use a medium-speed air wrench to remove the lug nuts, but when installing it's always 100% by hand.
 
In my opinion the wheels that came on mine looked more suited for a Altima or a maxima they just didn't look right on a truck. I think if they would have powder coated the sv wheels black or gun metal with a machined face they would have looked better.
Did you have the mesh type 16's?
 
Did you have the mesh type 16's?
Yep. I'd say if I'd had the older 5 star wheels or the nismo wheels I would have had them powder coated. I considered buying the pro4x wheels but most that I had seen were bringing a good amount used.[/QUOTE]

Yeah I had the same stockies, I wished it came with the older 5-spoke too, but after looking at pricing for the OEMs I figured it wasn't worth it when a set of wider aftermarket wheels were a couple hundred more.
 
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