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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've got a white rhino bar sitting at the house, and I've got some questions about the install/bar itself.

There was a miscommunication and the bar I received isn't to order. I'm waiting on Chris to touch base on a resolution.

For those of you that have one: do the brackets fit on the inside or outside of the radiator supports? The radiator support on the passenger has an existing hole: is this utilized or am I drilling four independent ones?

I also understand that I remove the three push pins underneath the grille and replace them with bolts. I ordered the model without hoop, and have four KC daylighter LED's to mount: there shouldn't be any issue with supporting he weight, correct?

Last question: is there any other alternative (outside contacting a local Fab shop) besides the White Rhino? I like the unit, and I hope that the corrected version will arrive soon, but a back up isn't a bad idea.
 

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I've got a white rhino bar sitting at the house, and I've got some questions about the install/bar itself.

There was a miscommunication and the bar I received isn't to order. I'm waiting on Chris to touch base on a resolution.

For those of you that have one: do the brackets fit on the inside or outside of the radiator supports? The radiator support on the passenger has an existing hole: is this utilized or am I drilling four independent ones?

I also understand that I remove the three push pins underneath the grille and replace them with bolts. I ordered the model without hoop, and have four KC daylighter LED's to mount: there shouldn't be any issue with supporting he weight, correct?

Last question: is there any other alternative (outside contacting a local Fab shop) besides the White Rhino? I like the unit, and I hope that the corrected version will arrive soon, but a back up isn't a bad idea.

- Brackets go inside the rad supports

- You should be drilling 4 new holes

- The weight of 4 lights shouldn't be an issue since you should have 7 solid mounting points (2 in left rad support, 2 in right rad support, 3 under bumper support) for just the bar if installed correctly

- There hasn't been an alternative other than custom
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Precisely the info I was looking for.

Anyone here still have one on a 1pc plastic Pro-4x/DR bumper? I'd like to know what information you sent to WR that helped clear up any confusion.
 

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Precisely the info I was looking for.

Anyone here still have one on a 1pc plastic Pro-4x/DR bumper? I'd like to know what information you sent to WR that helped clear up any confusion.
Check my build thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah yes, you had the very clean SC. When you ordered, did you simply request the model for the one piece plastic bumper, or were further instructions/measurements necessary?
 

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Might want to give these guys a look, they're making offroad bumpers and now a light bar similar to WRF.
$220 raw metal though... you could pay that to any decent welder, heh.

Looks like the old M-Trux bar, which looks like the Defiant bar (both discontinued IIRC) (not my pics):

M-Trux:


Defiant:
 

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Anyone ever put a WR bar on an Equator? I haven't checked under her myself yet to see how the bumper is made. Just figured I'd ask here since we are all talking about it.
 

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Anyone ever put a WR bar on an Equator? I haven't checked under her myself yet to see how the bumper is made. Just figured I'd ask here since we are all talking about it.
Since you're the first one who has an Equator in this thread, by default - it's time for you to take a look LOL

There's a few pics in my build thread you can compare your truck to in terms of fastening locations, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've got the updated version installed (still had to drill a bit), along with four KC daylighters. With all seven bolts snugged down, I can of course still manipulate the bracket and now the bumper to a small degree, which inevitably causes some minor light bounce.

Raine, I assume yours is the same way?
 

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I've got the updated version installed (still had to drill a bit), along with four KC daylighters. With all seven bolts snugged down, I can of course still manipulate the bracket and now the bumper to a small degree, which inevitably causes some minor light bounce.

Raine, I assume yours is the same way?
Wait - what do you mean by "I can of course still manipulate the bracket and now the bumper to a small degree"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If I grab the plate and apply force up or down, the plate/j brackets and bumper (via the three push pins replaced with bolts) can be moved in a vertical position.

Three 1/4" and four 5/16" bolts used with washers on each end (save for one of the four 5/16" leg bolts) . The plate is not moving independent of the mount points.
 

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So you mean it flexes? Mine doesn't; bar is super solid, lights don't bounce at all. But I used 3/8 x 1.25" bolts, with spacers, washers, and nuts for the center bumper area and 5/8 x 1.25" bolts, washers, and nuts on the radiator supports. If i pull up on the bar or the light mounting plate, I'm pretty much pulling up the whole front end of the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The WR plate has zero flex. When I force it up or down in a vertical fashion, I'm watching the bumper itself and the radiator supports flex. The light mount has no movement independent of the mount points.

The three bolts up front, when tightened up, force the front of the plate to rest against the bumper. The corners of the plate make contact with the corners of the lower bumper mouth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The plate is deeper to accommodate deeper lights


I was unable to get a washer on one of the 5/16" bolts, but it's solid. Had to offset the hole for the three up front since the slots were off about 1/4". Can also see (top left of second pic) where the plate gouged the bumper mouth during test fits. It obviously rests against it now.

 

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The WR plate has zero flex. When I force it up or down in a vertical fashion, I'm watching the bumper itself and the radiator supports flex. The light mount has no movement independent of the mount points.

The three bolts up front, when tightened up, force the front of the plate to rest against the bumper. The corners of the plate make contact with the corners of the lower bumper mouth.
First part doesn't happen - like I said if I try to move my WR bar, the whole truck moves with it. As for the second part, the corners have clearance on the bar I have.

After seeing your pics, questions:

1. You got yours direct from WR?

2. It looks like the center 3 bolts in the bumper opening should be around 1" out more to the end of the slots... and likewise, the flat mounting area of the bar looks about 1" outward more than it should be. Did you mount it this way on purpose?

3. Did you grind down the left side radiator support bump before you started the install?

4. Did you contact WR about the slots not being in the right spot before you decided to drill new holes?
 
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