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I am ordering up some Hefty skids and was wondering besides the Radiator and Engine skid, do the rest get used much? As in how beat up your transmission and Gas Tank Skids? I have the Pro4x so I have some protection. I don't play in the rocks, but do find the belly low on these trucks even with the Lift. I figure the Gas tank skid is probably not an issue for me as plastic tanks move instead of dent.
 

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Hefty Skids can take abuse!

The transfer case skid takes a lot of hits as it sits below the frame at its lowest point. I had the skids that are now on my X on my Frontier for about 5 years and the engine skid is the most beat up followed by the radiator and transfer case skids. The trans skid has just a couple dents and the gas tank skid a few scratches. Buy the set and protect everything and save a little over the individual skid price.
 

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...what does Hefty use for the "bare metal" skids and would there be any reason at all to burn the $$ on the powder coating?
 

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Buying the skids powder coated will save you the hassle of trying to paint them in the winter. Powder coated stuff can be easily touched up with Rustoleum Semi Gloss paint which matches the finish very well.

Bare Skids ship with a coating of cosmolyne (sp?) on them to prevent rust that needs to be cleaned off before painting. If you don't paint the steel it will quickly rust and start to degrade. If you buy the aluminum skids you can leave them bare.
 

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...thanks for the info!
 

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Can you go with the Aluminum? That way if you sell the truck in a year or two I can buy them from you for a deep discount!
 

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Do we have anyone that has used the aluminum skids for a while now and is real good at landing on the regularly. My metal ones are beat to hell and usually need straightened before I put them back on if I remove them to repaint. I would love to lose the weight, but I am not sure with how hard I hit mine if the aluminum is really strong enough for me.

To the OP, I have bangs in all my skids including one in the gas tank skit that looks like I came down on a metal rod or a real sharp rock and it made a pin point mark almost 1/3 inch deep in the metal skids. So I say you may use some more than others, but that would have punctured the gas tank, so if you can, buy them all right away or at least get the ones that there are not stock ones for and the front 2 or 3 at minimum with plans to replace them all if you mean to use them for what they are designed for.
 

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Just get the complete set. It's cheap insurance. All my skids have marks on them and I don't even wheel all that often.

I have the Hefty aluminum skids. Ive had zero problems with them, but I don't abuse them either. I try not to impact them, just slide across the rocks.
 

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Anyone know the actual weight of the steel and aluminum skids Hefty sells?
 

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If you have a 4wd and only do light wheeling then all you need IMO is the engine skid. Must get an engine skid as the front diff is the lowest most forward point on the truck and not protected by anything. Stock rad and gas skids do pretty well. Trans tucked up pretty far. T-case, humm, Let just say this. My engine skid has taken over 100 hits. My t-case skid 1.
 

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The transfer case skid takes a lot of hits as it sits below the frame at its lowest point. I had the skids that are now on my X on my Frontier for about 5 years and the engine skid is the most beat up followed by the radiator and transfer case skids. The trans skid has just a couple dents and the gas tank skid a few scratches. Buy the set and protect everything and save a little over the individual skid price.
I agree. Lost my front skid. Pushed radiator up,cracked upper pan.
Front cross member took major hit.
No transfer case skid.Broke off drain plug casting on rear case.
Took a chunk out of read differential.
I learned my lesson and have full steel skids.
 

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If you have a 4wd and only do light wheeling then all you need IMO is the engine skid. Must get an engine skid as the front diff is the lowest most forward point on the truck and not protected by anything. Stock rad and gas skids do pretty well. Trans tucked up pretty far. T-case, humm, Let just say this. My engine skid has taken over 100 hits. My t-case skid 1.
Hmmmmm..... the front differential on the Frontier is elevated above the crossmember and the oil pan hangs down below it. The stock radiator skid will not stop a hard hit and since the radiator is plastic, it is very important to protect it. I am surprised that you have only hit your t case skid 1 time as it took the most hits while on my Frontier. I guess it is just a difference in terrain. The water bars and bumps on the trails at Hollister would hit the t case skid regularly and it needed to be touched up every year. Before I got the skids the t case would dig into the dirt EVERY time I went wheeling.
 

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Hmmmmm..... the front differential on the Frontier is elevated above the crossmember and the oil pan hangs down below it. The stock radiator skid will not stop a hard hit and since the radiator is plastic, it is very important to protect it. I am surprised that you have only hit your t case skid 1 time as it took the most hits while on my Frontier. I guess it is just a difference in terrain. The water bars and bumps on the trails at Hollister would hit the t case skid regularly and it needed to be touched up every year. Before I got the skids the t case would dig into the dirt EVERY time I went wheeling.
My rad skid is not in pristine shape. It has definitely been well used. I guess when I wheel hard"ish" it is in rocky terrain. I hit the front diff might sit higher than the oil pan but barely. And since it sits forward of it, it tends to contact. I guess Hollister really test out the break over angle. By the time I kiss a rock with my engine skid I will adjust my line and gentle drive over/around it. I also think it has something to do with the bouncing which decreases the clearance. Gently also means no bounce.
 

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Do we have anyone that has used the aluminum skids for a while now and is real good at landing on the regularly. My metal ones are beat to hell and usually need straightened before I put them back on if I remove them to repaint. I would love to lose the weight, but I am not sure with how hard I hit mine if the aluminum is really strong enough for me.
To the OP, I have bangs in all my skids including one in the gas tank skit that looks like I came down on a metal rod or a real sharp rock and it made a pin point mark almost 1/3 inch deep in the metal skids. So I say you may use some more than others, but that would have punctured the gas tank, so if you can, buy them all right away or at least get the ones that there are not stock ones for and the front 2 or 3 at minimum with plans to replace them all if you mean to use them for what they are designed for.
Kinda difficult to answer not knowing how you wheel. I try to first take it easy on an obstacle, then try a different line, then give it the beans. I have a full set minus the radiator skid (planning to get a bumper this winter & it comes with a rad skid. Stock radiator stick deflector is beat to hell)
I've had the AL skids on for a bit less than a year. I travel Stock/Challenging to Moderate trails. I tend to hit alot of things... They have held up very well. I've taken several good hits both straight on and coming down on rocks. (engine skid)The corners probably have taken the worst of it but by no means does any of it look bad. The leading edge, which has borne the brunt of the front strikes (I also have signs of front strikes on the gas tank skid) looks remarkably well. Plenty of scrapes, few dents. I am very happy with them, they've saved my bacon more than once. Downside: being armored I tend to go a bit more agressively than before I had the skids&sliders. god help me once I have a plate bumper&winch... (the plate bumper&rad skid looks like a pretty good ramp for 'climbing' ledges...)

Anyone know the actual weight of the steel and aluminum skids Hefty sells?
AL are 76lbs(freight weight) full set (I have) and Steel are 200lbs. I asked Chris before buying.

If you just travel fire roads/logging roads and other semi-maintained dirt roads you could get away with (starting) the oem stock stamped engine & trans skids (they're real cheap, around $30) They'll do a good enough job of fending off sticks. The gas skid is as expensive as a steel Shrock or Hefty steel skid. just get it unless someone will give you a oem one cheap. Really don't want to take a chance slicing/gouging open your gas tank on the trail. I have plenty of marks from rocks running one end to the other with a few stabs to boot...

But if you are building to use it mild-to-wild then just get the whole kit.

That said, the trade-off with the weight savings of AL is if a rock grabs you by a skid, the AL doesn't slide off it as well as a steel plate. Some folks around here have got the same material as cutting boards (HDPE ?? ) either entirely as their skids or bolted to skids for slipperyness... One jeep I saw had the plastic bolted to a frame that was bolted to his jeep frame. Made them stiff enough so they didn't snap and lighter than a similar sized plate skid.
 
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