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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 pro 4-x auto and I also have a Dana 44 front axle but not sure if it's gonna be easier and more economical to do a SAS than to improve or swap the front dif I.E. titan swap and keep IFS?

My main concern is strength and function. Don't need an extreme crawler as this is my DD and my means of working but I do hit trails , mud and some crawling and I tend to break things in unexplainable ways.

I've also read that the aluminum case for the titan and frontier dif is the biggest weak point. Is there a steel case option for this dif or any other dif that's easily bolted in?

I can weld and have decent knowledge of mechanics so I'm willing to make things fit if it will work



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If you plan on spending much time on the road IFS is far superior. If this were a dedicated off roader, SAS would be king, but since this is your DD I would not SAS it.

Cost will also be much more to SAS over a full titan swap. Even though you already have an axle and you can weld, that is only half the battle. SAS would be a totally custom job, so in addition to the steel cost, you'll need rod ends, misc brackets, custom driveshaft, custom coilovers and mounts, etc. There is also all the math involved to get the details right. You'll also need to consider the down time to perform all this custom work, which will require you to have another vehicle to get you to work.
For more info on this PM Chema. I can't recall his handle on here, @JeniorNV a little help here?!
He recently finished his SAS.

Titan swap will be much better to DD, cost less, and can be completed in a weekend. It also has the benefit that you can go back to stock if you ever want to sell the truck. Regarding a stronger diff housing, most don't have issues once they move to the m205 (titan diff) just make sure you get a 3 rib. Check out the guide in my signature for all the details.
 

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Here is a SAS thread ...you may have already seen it ... but just in case.
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f15/07-solid-axle-swap-85923/index18.html

I question if you have to be concerned about the speed sensors , anti lock brakes ect. with the computer when you SAS ?

And you may well already know this as well ....
You can Titan Swap with a heavy duty (Tow package) (3 rib) M205 front differential from a Titan or Aramda.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I think I will narrow my selection back to the titan swap . But that means I have a Dana 44 I gotta sell and a locker to pick out for the m205


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is there anyone on here that would want to buy the stock parts that I'm not using , front dif, axles , etc?


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Thanks for the replies. I think I will narrow my selection back to the titan swap . But that means I have a Dana 44 I gotta sell and a locker to pick out for the m205


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I think you only have the ARB as an option.

Is there anyone on here that would want to buy the stock parts that I'm not using , front dif, axles , etc?


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Generally the r180 diff will sell. The arms, tie rods, and axle will sell fairly inexpensively for those looking to have spares.

Back to the topic of SAS vs IFS though. If you know what you are doing, the SAS would ultimately be cheaper IMO. Leaf Springs, Steering, shocks and ABS are essentially all you need to invest in. With a TSwap, you would need M205 diff (locker?), axles, arms, tie rods, coil overs. All in all easier to do but more $.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think you only have the ARB as an option.







Generally the r180 diff will sell. The arms, tie rods, and axle will sell fairly inexpensively for those looking to have spares.



Back to the topic of SAS vs IFS though. If you know what you are doing, the SAS would ultimately be cheaper IMO. Leaf Springs, Steering, shocks and ABS are essentially all you need to invest in. With a TSwap, you would need M205 diff (locker?), axles, arms, tie rods, coil overs. All in all easier to do but more $.


I agree but the closer I looked at mine it seems I might be in for lengthening the front shaft, fabricating abs mounts and the fact my Dana 44 will need completely rebuilt including gears and locker. still not sure if I wanna get that deep into something I use to get to work everyday if there is a possibility I will run into extended down time due to problems. Although it is awesome and I'm perfectly comfortable doing either one.

My goal is to have a plan , then parts ready to go, and install in a weekend all with doing it the right way the first time.


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I agree but the closer I looked at mine it seems I might be in for lengthening the front shaft, fabricating abs mounts and the fact my Dana 44 will need completely rebuilt including gears and locker. still not sure if I wanna get that deep into something I use to get to work everyday if there is a possibility I will run into extended down time due to problems. Although it is awesome and I'm perfectly comfortable doing either one.

My goal is to have a plan , then parts ready to go, and install in a weekend all with doing it the right way the first time.


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Agreed. The couple of SASs I have been involved with were dedicated wheelers. And older rigs (no abs). Seems like aside from the the axle itself everything was relativity cheap. Mainly runs to the junk yard to get more leaf springs to build the stack with.
 

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I vote keep the ifs. It is actually pretty amazing what these trucks are capable of.

I run many trails here in Colorado with the stock r180. Don't unnecessarily spin the tires and it is pretty robust. Upgrade the front diff with a lokka locker and there goes the weak spider gears.

I run an extended travel setup with spc arms and 33s. have run many gnarly trails here( chinamans gulch, china wall, wheeler lakes on trail damage.com) and have not broken anything!

However, I too dream of an sas at some point...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I vote keep the ifs. It is actually pretty amazing what these trucks are capable of.



I run many trails here in Colorado with the stock r180. Don't unnecessarily spin the tires and it is pretty robust. Upgrade the front diff with a lokka locker and there goes the weak spider gears.



I run an extended travel setup with spc arms and 33s. have run many gnarly trails here( chinamans gulch, china wall, wheeler lakes on trail damage.com) and have not broken anything!



However, I too dream of an sas at some point...


Have any pics of your rig? I started the whole project because I wanted more ground clearance and bigger tires and most of all more suspension travel. I want to 4 link the rear pretty soon as well. I agree these trucks hold there own and personally put them a bit above Toyota as far as frame strength and bang for your buck. This is my second frontier and wouldn't hesitate to buy another.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

So far the only mods I've done is the front bumper and skid plate and a 3" lift which not a fan of



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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just brainstorming has anyone looked into the front dif from the new titan xd to see if it would fit in the frontier or if it's worth anything?


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·


That's what made me think of it. According to that thread it's a pipe dream or at the least requires more fabrication and planning than the SAS.

My next question is has anyone tried to make their own UCA for the T-swap? It looks like a really simple design and concept I'm thinking of attempting it. seeing how I can build a set for about $100 or less and PRG ones are $600 it looks to be just a hoop with heim joints and a ball joint socket. Trying to avoid bucket contact and get max travel


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I see no need to reinvent the wheel on upper control arms. I run the SPC titan arms and for the money, $579 for cast steel arms with poly bushings, a properly sealed ball joint that is fully adjustable for caster as well as camber it can't really be beat. At full droop, I still have plenty of room between the arm and the coil bucket. I've got a couple of pictures in my build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I see no need to reinvent the wheel on upper control arms. I run the SPC titan arms and for the money, $579 for cast steel arms with poly bushings, a properly sealed ball joint that is fully adjustable for caster as well as camber it can't really be beat. At full droop, I still have plenty of room between the arm and the coil bucket. I've got a couple of pictures in my build thread.


Cool I'll check it out thanks



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^Agree on not making your own on a lower cost prospective. You'll easily overshoot that $100 just in rod ends, unibals, and misalignment spacers... If you buy quality parts you'll be in $200 minimum just for hardware before you even buy any metal.
While it would be cool to do your own there are many well made arms out there already.
 

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^Agree on not making your own on a lower cost prospective. You'll easily overshoot that $100 just in rod ends, unibals, and misalignment spacers... If you buy quality parts you'll be in $200 minimum just for hardware before you even buy any metal.
While it would be cool to do your own there are many well made arms out there already.


I second that, hardware alone is a couple hundred bucks. If you want to get really crazy with ifs you could do a long travel setup, custom shock hoops, engine brace, 8" coilovers with 2.5-3" rod end extensions to clear the extended axle shafts to be used with an m205. Ive seen a couple people do it and looks like it would be worth it


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