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Discussion Starter #1
I have my Titan Swap fully installed, and right now I have about 4.5" of lift in the front and about 5" in the rear. My main question is, how tall should my bump stops be for my setup. I'm running the SPC Titan UCA's, stock titan LCA's, and for coilovers I'm using the Titan Swap Bilstein 5100's using Tundra shocks/springs. For the rear I'm using Old Man Emu medium duty Dakar leaf springs , Bilstein 5125's, and the 1"-3" lift shackle from Nisstec. So far I'm very pleased with my truck, but I haven't taken it on the trail yet since I don't have the bump stops set and I don't want to destroy the shocks. I don't do any super fast trail runs, I'm more into crawling around, so I don't need anything progressive. I'd like to retain as much travel as possible, as long as it's safe for the truck. I'm having trouble finding bump stops online for the Frontier.
 

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You need to first determine where you want the leaf pack to shop compressing.
I set mine right when they start going negative.
To do it correctly you need to disassemble the leaf pack and using just the main spring, compress it to determine this.
You also need a spacer/spacers that are the same thickness of the remaining springs.
It is a lot of work and most will not do it this way but that will help what bump stops you require.
I set up the front a similar way. Compressed the suspension till the shock was about 1/4 inch from full compression and set the bump stop to wherevut bottom
Out.
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ABCC6007-3437-417E-BD68-F5B9C416A8A6.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You need to first determine where you want the leaf pack to shop compressing.
I set mine right when they start going negative.
To do it correctly you need to disassemble the leaf pack and using just the main spring, compress it to determine this.
You also need a spacer/spacers that are the same thickness of the remaining springs.
It is a lot of work and most will not do it this way but that will help what bump stops you require.
I set up the front a similar way. Compressed the suspension till the shock was about 1/4 inch from full compression and set the bump stop to wherevut bottom
Out. View attachment 310604 View attachment 310603 View attachment 310604 View attachment 310603 View attachment 310603
Is there a way that I could test the compression limits with the springs/coilovers fully assembled? The frontier is my only vehicle and I can't really leave it disassembled for extended periods of time.
Thanks for the reply by the way!
 

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Do you think you can remove the spring on the coilover, remount , and compress the suspension till you can determine where you want the shock to stop? Remove shock , replace the spring and remountveverythink in a day or weekend?
If not let me think about it.
You might be able to calculate everything math wise.
If calculated correctly, it will be close.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you think you can remove the spring on the coilover, remount , and compress the suspension till you can determine where you want the shock to stop? Remove shock , replace the spring and remountveverythink in a day or weekend?
If not let me think about it.
You might be able to calculate everything math wise.
If calculated correctly, it will be close.
Is there a reason I couldn't just compress the suspension with a jack or ramp? See where my limits are, make a note of it, go from there?
 

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I would not be afraid to take it off road. I doubt if you will compress the shocks till they bottomed out.
Might if you got air.
Still you would want to eventually want mount bumps.
My race car partner is having a problem with his Ford diesel bottoming out.
It has air bags with no bump stops.
Fine for towing since he had to pump up the bags.
Problem is when it is unladen. It bottoms out unless he runs a minimum of 30 lbs in the airbags. Makes for rough ride.
He is still in Mexico for the people wanting to buy my used parts.
When he gets back we will see if the bumps I pulled off my Frontier will work.
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Is there a reason I couldn't just compress the suspension with a jack or ramp? See where my limits are, make a note of it, go from there?
yes, once you meet the spring rate which you will, the suspension will stop compressing. You will just raise the truck.
I don’t know the spring rate of a Tundra?
Let say 650lb. The first inch it compresses, the spring is now 1300 lbs.
Corner weight of a stock Frontier is just a little more than this. As you can see it will just start raising the whole vehicle a little after this.
Somrthing did not seem right after thinking about it. It should not not reach ride height after only one inch of compression.
I forgot about the “wheel rate” or what is the spring rate at the wheel.
Calculating wheel rate. Distsnce from the centerline of pivot point to location of shock mount(D1).
Distance from centerline to ball joint(D2).
Wheel rate = D1 divided by D2 x spring rate.
 

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I will need some information from you but like I said I maybe able to calculate what you need.
I know it can be done. Whether I can do it???
I will get on the computer which I have”Solid Works”. I stopped using it since it is a struggle for me to see. Four eye operations.
 

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I am not Titan swapped but I am lifted and as you,,,,, was afraid of damaging my coilovers when fully compressed.
I just unbolted the stock lower control arm bump pad and replaced it with these bump stops.
 

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Is there a reason I couldn't just compress the suspension with a jack or ramp? See where my limits are, make a note of it, go from there?
The springs are too stiff. you can try but will find that the truck will lift off the ground before the suspension reaches full compression.

Did you put that boot on the shock when you put the 5100 together. Can you see the shaft. If you REALLY care do this. Cut the boot off. This leaves the boot retainer spacer in the stack, which is needed for proper load bearing. Next take a small zip tie and tie it on the shock shaft. Push it down to the bottom of the shaft. Then wipe off the current rubber bump stop and the upper strike pad. Put a dab of grease on the rubber pad. Go for a drive. Stop occasionally to see how far up the shaft the zip tie has been pushed. probably about 1/2 way. The shock bottoms out when there is still a a little space before the end of the shaft. Now go and bash around some more. Hitting bigger bumps than the initial test drive. Check zip tie. This should give you a feel on how much of your compression stroke is being used. If the zip tie is gone, then you have crushed it, and time to add a taller bump. Now look under at the bump stop strike pad, is there grease on it. Has the grease transferred from the bump stop to the strike pad? Generally it takes a big bump (ususulay more of a landing type) to get to full compression. Assume thus far you have not hit the bump stop and still have some stroke left on the shock. Now go test a little harder. This should give you an idea of your shocks compression travel relative to your control arms travel.

Oh course you should have done this test fitting much earlier on with no spring on the shock. Like this

5100TestUpright.jpg
 

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Your truck , as it sits , is at ride height.
As you try and compress the suspension, once it reaches this point, as a few pointed out, it will simply start lifting the whole truck,
Can you measure the over all length of the spring at ride height?
If so can you post the length?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry for the late reply, been super busy the last couple of days. Thanka for the info, I'll get some measurements tonight so I can figure this out. In the meantime my truck is 2wd and just a street vehicle until I get the m205 in, and get the bumstops installed.
 

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Just for your information,I run the r180.
By using the Lokka locker, it gets rid of the weak spider gears which is the main reason for the failures.
I mention this a few times but we ran the NORRA race almost full time in 4x4 with no problem.
 
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