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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally feel like I've done enough work to the truck to warrant a build thread.

There are links to some of the threads I started that contain good info on the exhaust build, UpRev tuning, front bumper/OBA/Aux Electrical setup and the installation of the oil pressure gauge. Pictures are sporadic because I didn't take a picture each and every time I built/changed something but it's a pretty good overview of what I've done so far.

Thank you to:
Vicki - My Girlfriend of many years who lets me do all this crap
Drew and Cassie - Drew for helping build it and Cassie for keeping Vicki entertained while we built it
Gutter Greg - For going wheeling, helping build it and reminding me of the virtues of slowing down
Mustang Bill - For helping build it when I really needed someone else
Toyota John - For showing up with the sawzall at the precise moment it was needed


TRUCK - 2009 Nissan Frontier King Cab PRO-4X 4x4 6spd. Bought it brand new April 25, 2009. Rolled it off the lot with 21 miles on it. As of 07/09/18 I have 167,000 miles on it (give or take.)

LINKS
https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f11/another-exhaust-thread-need-advice-55732/ - Headers/Dual Exhaust Install and Build
https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f11/uprev-standard-not-available-67953/ - Slog through it to the payoff with the dyno sheet
https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/mike-westracings-new-bumper-72010/ - Front Bumper, Tire carrier, Diff Temp gauge and OBA/Electrical system are all in this thread with pics
https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/how-sort-install-aftermarket-oil-pressure-gauge-74186/ - Self explanatory

ARMOR
* Shrockworks Front Winch Bumper with Prerunner Hoop
* Shrockworks Rear Bumper
* Shrockworks Sliders
* Shrockworks Radiator, Engine, Transmission, Transfer Case and Fuel Tank Skid Plates

EXTERIOR
* CBI Offroad Fab Swing Away Spare Tire Carrier with Jerry Can Mount (the Shrock rear was modified to fit the carrier)
* WARN XD9000i Winch with Synthetic line
* OBA Quick Connect on compressor in toolbox
* Firestik 4' CB Antenna mounted to utili-trak behind the cab
* Rigid Industries 20" LED bar on front bumper
* Rigid Industries Dually's mounted to top of bedrails
* 85HP worth of decals in the back window
* UWS Aluminum Black Diamond Plate Tool Box
* Mesh Grille

INTERIOR
* Brutal Gauge Pod
* Autometer Ultra Lite II Oil Pressure and Engine Oil Temp gauges in A-Pillar
* Custom Switch Console in front of shifter
* Custom Shift Knob
* OTRATTW switches mounted next to shifter and on custom console in aluminum bezels
* Cobra 29 with Nightwatch CB mounted to top of dash above stock radio
* Autovation Pedal set and heel plate
* Scangauge II on Blendmount
* Gentex Auto Dimming Mirror with Compass and Temp
* Tigger Koosh

PERFORMANCE
* INJEN Cold Air Intake
* NISMO Shorty Headers
* WRP Intake Manifold Spacer
* True Dual Exhaust with twin Borla Turbo Mufflers (pipes cut right after mufflers)
* UpRev Tuned by Performance Motorsports East (266 HP/275 FTLBS backed up by dyno sheet however the truck actually pulled 270 HP/280 FTLBS on last run)
* PRG Short Throw Shifter modified to accept any Hurst 2 bolt shift lever (now has custom lever)
* 350Z Thermostat

SUSPENSION
FRONT
* PRG Titan Heim UCA
* OEM Titan LCA
* Sway-A-Way 2.5 Remote Reservoir Coilovers with 650lbs springs
* PRG Heim Steering
* PRG Extended Brake Lines
REAR
* Alcan 3" Leafs 550LBS Over Stock
* 10" Fox 2.0's behind the axle
* OEM Shackles
* U-bolt Flip with Ruff Stuff parts
* Extended XJ Bump Stops
* Mastercraft limit straps
* 2" Wheel Spacers from Fred Goeske at wheeladapter.com

DRIVETRAIN
* Titan M205 Front Diff re-geared to 4.10 with ARB Locker
* OEM M226 Rear Diff re-geared to 4.10 with ARB Locker
* ARB Diff Cover

WHEELS/TIRES
* 5 OEM 6-spoke PRO-4X rims
* 5 315/75R16 BFGoodrich Mud Terrain KM2's

MICELLANEOUS
* ARB CKMTA12 Dual Compressor mounted in toolbox with OBA Quick Connect and 5 gallon air tank
* Odyssey AGM Battery
* Custom designed and built Auxilliary Electrical System (2 100A breakers [distribution bar for ARB compressor off 1], 2 Blue Sea fuse boxes, one constant hot and one ignition hot)
* 60" Hi-Lift Extreme
* Allstar Performance Vented Breather Tanks for Front and Rear Diffs with K&N Filters

The day I brought it home...



First came the sliders, skids, rear bumper, new tires... Then I went wheeling (see attached)... Got some sweet trail damage when I nailed a rather large rock...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After that, the decision was made to go for broke... Out came the plastic and on went the steel as I ordered up my front bumper, rear tire carrier and built the OBA/Electrical system and installed the CB.









Way more detail of all of this is in the link in Post #1 for the front bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now, after that, things got interesting. In August of 2011 I got rearended by some lady in a Lexus. My truck got a broken tail light and some more bed side damage, to the same side I all ready hit, her Lexus got an entire passenger side peeled off by my rear bumper. Score one for my rig. So, off to the body shop goes my truck with her insurance money and behold, my off road body damage was replaced due to another drivers incompetence!

2 weeks after I got it back from the body shop, I got hit again on I-84. **** **** Mother ****** God*****. No matter, just scratched the paint on the back bumper and blew a light bulb. That check bought the M205 gears.

In the meantime, before and during all this happening, I had been planning my Titan Swap. I wanted to get it done in one shot and not get a few parts here and there. I bought a used M205 around February of 2011 and then I called Greg at PRG. We talked for 6 months, changed the shock package 3 times, then I finally bought it. 8 months after that, I had all the parts and 2 weeks after that (just this past weekend), all the people thanked in Post #1 stopped by at various times to get it on the truck.

Overall it went fairly smoothly actually. The biggest hangups were the LCA ball joints that wouldn't budge for anything, the drivers side brake line since the flared fittings were pipe doped from the factory (needless) and the front leaf spring hanger bolt on the driver side. But, regardless, after working for two straight days, 9AM-11PM Saturday and 8AM-7PM Sunday, the rig was back on all four wheels, lined up, brakes bled and ready for her initial Titan Swap test drive...

It drove like a Cadillac. Tracks dead straight down the road, no noise, shimmy, shudder no nothing. Perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
And that's how it sits right at this moment.

I should be getting the 4.10's for the rear in a couple of weeks, so of prime importance is getting those installed shortly after I get them. Between now and then, since I have the front driveshaft out, it's time to change the U-joints. Ordered up some nice new spicer parts from Northern Drivetrain so I'll do that while I have the time.

After the rears are in and all is well, it's bolt in the front driveshaft, test it a little, then head to PA to wheel it.

Longer term plans:
#1 I have a design for a 2 piece removable chase rack that would bolt into the utili-trak. That's next to get built on the list but that's probably a ways off (either this or I'm getting a roof rack and cutting it down.)

#2 Add an air tank hung under the bed in the spare tire spot. ARB says the CKMA12 compressor can handle a 2.5 gallon tank so we're going to test that out with a tank from VIAIR. I'll add an OBA quick connect to the back bumper to match the one on the front and run the air lines for both from the tank.

#3 I would eventually like to get ARB Air Lockers for both the M205 and the M226 rear.

#4 Atlas II, 3.8:1 Transfer Case and go to 35" tires

EDIT: I thought about it and I've decided to keep basically what I have instead of ripping out the rear axle, etc. I think it's cost prohibitve when that money could be spent on other mods to. This is why this post has been edited. This now reflects the direction the truck will be heading in at this time.
 

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I've got a few questions
1-Are you getting a Shrock Diff cover for over the Mag? I've hit my diff several times at RC (granted you're a little taller)
2-Did you tie the Duallys into the reverse, stand alone, three way?
3-Did you add spacers to the rear wheels? Can you take a pic from either front/back? I've never seen a TS w/ 255s.
Truck looks great Mike. When are you planning on coming down to RC?
 

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I'm curious, why does your TS look pretty flush with the fenders? Is it tire related? Most swaps I see the tires stick way outside the fenders, only thing preventing me from doing it
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I've got a few questions
1-Are you getting a Shrock Diff cover for over the Mag? I've hit my diff several times at RC (granted you're a little taller)
2-Did you tie the Duallys into the reverse, stand alone, three way?
3-Did you add spacers to the rear wheels? Can you take a pic from either front/back? I've never seen a TS w/ 255s.
Truck looks great Mike. When are you planning on coming down to RC?
1) Hadn't planned on it. I wheeled it stock at RC and didn't hit it, or atleast didn't hit too hard. I do plan to eventually get rid of the Mag-Hytec cover when I ditch the diff temp gauge. I was hoping ARB was going to come through and make the cover for the M226 but the email I got said they weren't doing it anytime soon. Going to have to look into a different, more robust cover.

2) The Dually's are not tied into the reverse. The aux lights in the back bumper that came from Shrock are tied into the reverse. The Dually's are on a separate switch so I can use them for extra light behind me, extra backup lights (needed with the spare tire and Jerry can back there) or showing that clown with the high beams on behind me at night who's the boss.

3) I do. 2" wheel spacers I bought used from Nizmo McLovin (former member here) over on thenewX.


Thank you!

When I get home I will take some pics of the front and rear... Actually, I might be able to do the front while at work here, but I can definately do it later tonight. Will post the pics probably tomorrow.

At least a month before I wheel it in PA, probably more. Rear gears have to come first, get those installed, break those in, hook the driveshaft back up (20 mins) and then I want to take it for a test run over by my buddies house in NY. There's a very short, fairly steep and pretty rutted powerline trail right by his house. It'll be a good place to test it out to make sure it's all working right before I haul 3.5 hours to PA.

I'm curious, why does your TS look pretty flush with the fenders? Is it tire related? Most swaps I see the tires stick way outside the fenders, only thing preventing me from doing it
That would be because I'm the only one I know of running the pizza cutter 255/85R16 tires. You are correct, it's a combination of the narrower tire along with stock wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can you take a pic from either front/back? I've never seen a TS w/ 255s.
See attached. Picture of the front and the rear. Ignore the stain in the driveway. That would be from the fluid pump coming undone from the gear oil bottle. Harbor Frieght at it's finiest. Put a hose clamp on the end and it does work well.

Have to make some slight changes to the reservoir mount. The hose rubs a little on the spring. I'm not that concerned about it since the hose is way tougher than credit is given to it and even if you mount the resi to the coilbucket, I can't see anyway of preventing the rubbing unless you stick the resi pretty much in the engine bay. However, with that said, if I can get the hose off the spring, then so much the better.
 

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I'm curious, why does your TS look pretty flush with the fenders? Is it tire related? Most swaps I see the tires stick way outside the fenders, only thing preventing me from doing it
Check out bwarren's build as well. He did the titan swap and his didn't stick out very far either.
 

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I really like the stance on your truck! How much overall lift do you have with your setup?
Could you measure from the hub to fender on the front and back for me please:D
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
It's pretty close to 4" front and 4" rear but those are guesses to be honest. I didn't measure it before we tore it apart. I can tell you, since I measured it this morning, that it's 40.25" from the ground to the fender lip in front and 39.75" from the ground to the fender lip in the rear so I've got 1/2" negative rake.

EDIT: Rethought this and the lift I have is closer to 4"/4". When I had the spacers on the front with the bumper on, the truck set pretty much level. Now with the Titan Swap on there, it still sits pretty much level.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Re-did the front Reservoir mounts over the weekend. Originally, I had designed a clamp bracket that would clamp the frame to hold the resi's. That didn't work so I bought some mounts from Polyperformance and bolted them to the frame. I drilled 2 11/32 holes and made some brackets that could be positioned through pre-existing access holes inside the frame rail. These brackets were 3/16 steel and tapped for 5/16-18 threads. The only problem is that the hose on the SAW resi's are long and they rubbed the spring and came very close to the boots on the inner tie-rods.

So, I cut apart the brackets my buddy made, tweaked them a bit and bolted those in using the same threaded brackets I used on the previous version. Now, the resi is mounted higher and farther forward. It gets them off the spring and the tie-rod boot pretty well. I'll see if I can take a picture tonight. I should've taken some when I was doing it but I'm not too good at that. Driver side worked perfect, passenger side needed to have a little sheet metal persuaded out of the way to clear the top of the resi.

EDIT: And attached are now pictures of the passenger side reservoir mount. 2 pictures showing the bolt locations that hold the bracket. If, like me, you don't know how to weld and don't have ready access to anyone who can, then you need to come up with creative solutions. I knew the mounts should be welded to the coil bucket, but since that would really have to wait until I had everything installed that wasn't real viable since I have no one who could come to the truck and weld them on for a reasonable sum. What I did, and do have, are friends who are machinists and a very good welder in Danbury who's real busy but who's fair with the price if you can bring your job to him. So, I had my buddy make me the brackets out of 3/16" plate steel and took the mounts with the brackets down to the welder and for $20 he welded the mounts to the brackets where I wanted them. I had to do a bit of trimming of the bracket, but overall, I think they fit pretty well.

The only part that I don't care for so much is the aluminum pieces that appear to stick out of the frame for no reason. Those are the handles for the brackets that are inside the frame rail. Probably should've painted those black.
 

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Your build is a life saver.....ive been turned off by titan swapping right now with my 255 km2's but after seeing your truck I think the pizza cutter looks even better with the TS!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Had a BBQ to go to yesterday so we stopped by the side of the road for some poser action.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So, I've been hearing this really nasty creaking sound over the last few days (end of last week.) Was a bit stumped as to what it was since I had gone back through the truck and re-tightened everything. I thought at first it was the leafs creaking, but it didn't really sound like a squeak, it was more like a hard metal on metal. Kept looking under it and thought maybe I didn't grease the leaf bushings well enough or used the wrong grease on them...

Well, decided to keep my dentist apt on Saturday and surprise surprise, when you do the right thing, the answers to baffling questions seem to come to you. Looked under the back end when I got to the dentist and found the issue. I have the adjustable shackles set at the first hole up, and with the Deaver 10PK settling a bit over a week the shackle was pushed back and was hitting the frame. This is obviously not good so I took a good look at it. I like the stance of the truck, so I didn't really want to go messing with lowering the shackles. Instead, as an interim bandaid to the noise, I cut up some 3/8 fuel line (that fiber reinforced stuff from Goodyear) and laid that over the brace on the shackle so it acts as an isolator to the frame.

I don't expect that to last too long so when that fuel line takes a dump I'll drop the shackles to the next hole and see how that works. I originally wanted to get my positive rake back (not be level) and resetting the shackle might get me there. We'll see, but I thought it might be useful to anyone with what they assume to be spring creak. Check and see if the shackles hitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Stupidity is often a great teacher, it's also a good reason to do another fairly cheap mod for extra insurance.

After two weeks and two diff fluid changes breaking in the new gears in the M205, I dumped in the good stuff (Amsoil 75W-90 Severe Gear) nearly two weeks ago. Last weekend the girl and I took off for Stafford Springs to see some winged SuperModified racing on a blazing hot Saturday afternoon. Upon returning home around midnight, I smelled something odd when I got out of the truck. Took a look underneath and to my great dismay I see the drivers side of the front diff covered in fluid. After nearly shitting myself I popped the hood and crawled all over the truck. Checked the brake fluid, power steering fluid, etc. It didn't smell like gear oil and was clean as a whistle so I couldn't figure it out. I had fluid on the steering rack, the boot on the steering arm, inside the fender well... I thought I might've blown a seal. Ugh.

So, I lit up a cigarette and stared at the engine bay... Wait, why is the filter on the diff breather vent hose all wet? Upon closer inspection I find that the filter is soaked in gear oil. Ah ha! Well, that's where the mess came from, now why did it happen?

Hop online and read. This happens to Toyota's and Jeeps fairly frequently and usually it's because some idiot filled the diff too full. Now, I know I'm not that dumb, or am I? I filled it up until some fluid came out the fill plug, just like always.

Hrmm... Go and double check exactly how much it was supposed to have and to my horror I discovered I overfilled it by quite a bit. It was supposed to take 1.6L and I put a full 2 quarts (basically 2 liters save a touch) in. Wow, I'm dumb as hell, but at least the vent/breather did what it was supposed to do. When the additional oil got really hot at highway speeds and pressure built up in the diff, the oil had no where to go but up the vent hose and out the filter. In hindisight, I'm glad it did that instead of blowing the seals. OK, off to bed now that I know what happened.

The following day I made a new vent hose, cleaned the front and rear filters, drained and re-filled the front with the correct 1.6L of Amsoil and cleaned up the mess. On Monday, I ordered a vented differential catchcan from All Star Performance (bought through Summit) and had it overnighted. We're leaving for Oswego tonight and I wanted to make sure I had a safe guard in place before we make a 700 mile round trip hike. Got the catch can on Tuesday, went to Home Depot and Lowes on Wednesday for bolts, fittings and steel and made up a bracket and some some home brew studs. Drilled two holes in the INJEN air box, attached the bracket and bolted on the catchcan. Ran the vent hose up to the inlet port, clamped on the filter and presto, no more mess should the diff get way hot and decide to spit more oil. This will also allow me to check and see if any oil has made it's way up the vent by simply taking off the filter and peering in the tank for oil residue. This is the same setup that the Ultra 4 racecars/trucks require to be run on their transmissions and diffs.

When I drained the fluid last Sunday, there were some very fine metal shavings but nothing alarming. The drain plug was quite clean too. The oil didn't look too bad but I will probably drain it again in 15K miles or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks bud! Eagerly waiting for the email saying my 4.10's for the rear are on the way.

In the meantime, I've been doing little things on the truck. One of those being I have never really liked how the switches by my shifter came out. A month or so ago I had my buddy whip me up some switch plates out of 1/8 aluminum and a few weeks ago I installed it along with my new OTRATTW switches. The new switches are the same configuration as the old, except now the lower lights light up the words amber and the top light illuminates the switch icon red. Looks cool as hell at night but this daytime pic will have to suffice for now.

I also have a couple other smallish projects on the side burner. One is a modification to my short throw shifter that I think will be pretty neat and another is a console gauge/switch panel. The latter will require more wiring but will also give me a chance to change a couple things with the electrical system I built that I didn't like. Learning as I go and improving on things I did when I didn't know what I was doing.
 

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