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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I did some brake work to my truck. Before the pedal was rock hard while driving (yeah, I know, not so great) but now the pedal goes 1/2 to 3/4 to the floor for brake engagement. Is that normal? How is everyone else's pedal? Thanks.

Edit: I should add that with the engine off, the pedal is pretty hard. Its only when the engine is on that it is like this.
 

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That's too squishy. You need to bleed the brakes.

Hard while the engine is off is normal.

What work did you do?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In the rear I changed the shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders.

Front I did the rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, and master cylinder. Checked all the way around for leaks. Bleed the brakes twice. Based on what FSM said the brake booster seems to be fine.

With foot on the brake, I start the truck and pedal travels to about 1/2, where brakes start to engage. 100% engagement happens at about 3/4. Pedal doesn't go to the floor. I thought brake bleeding at first but when there was air in the lines, the pedal was super squishy even with the engine off.
 

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I went through just about the same thing. It took maybe three tries before I got all the air out.

On the last try I also bled the ABS. That seemed to do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was kind of afraid of that. I did not bleed the LSV or ABS module due to the fact that they are so rusted I am about 99.99% sure the bleeder will break off upon trying. I will eventually just run new brake lines and probably find a way to bypass those two.

I was reading that pad bedding can sometimes be a problem? Could potentially be a factor in my case since I only have about 0.25 miles on my new pads. In any case, I will bleed the brakes again this weekend.
 

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Bedding wouldn’t change pedal height before engagement. You have air in the system still. After all out, bed the brakes.

Hard when engine off is normal due to no assist. Once started, and vacuum is established and assist is there, it’ll act normal.
 

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Did you also adjust the rear shoes so they slightly drag when you turn the rear wheels? That would affect pedal height too. But without bleeding the ABS, you probably won't get all the air out since it's so high up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I did adjust the rear brakes until they started to drag. Then I used the e-brake (as per owners manual) to sort of get them finished with the setting. Then I bled the brakes two more times.

But I pretty much found the culprit. The pads I got had a pin on the wear indicator side that was binding on the caliper. I had the wear indicator side on the outside when it should have been inside. So the caliper was basically trying to crush those pins.The brakes seem much better now. Thanks!
 
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