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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I do hear water sounds (moving/dripping?) behind dash... Its not every single time i drive... Truck has 400 miles and its now at dealer. they told me they cant hear any sounds or issue with truck. I did show them vid that i recoreded...

Anyone having same issue? If so, how many miles you been having it? Should i just learn how to live with it?


Sorry for my English. :frown:
Thanks.
 

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^ Its because you have air trapped in your cooling system, specifically in the heater core. There are many, many threads on the forum about it. It has happened to owners no matter if the truck is new or several years old. Even if the level in your reservoir tank looks full, add a bit of coolant to it (maybe an inch over the full line) then drive it for a couple days or so & see what happens. Its a well known & documented problem for our trucks.
 

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^ Its because you have air trapped in your cooling system, specifically in the heater core. There are many, many threads on the forum about it. It has happened to owners no matter if the truck is new or several years old. Even if the level in your reservoir tank looks full, add a bit of coolant to it (maybe an inch over the full line) then drive it for a couple days or so & see what happens. Its a well known & documented problem for our trucks.

I prob will try that myself. I told service guy about cooling system and he didnt believe me. All he is doing is waiting until he hear it himself... wasted my time and gas :/
 

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Another thing you can try is releasing the air from the reservoir. Basically, after you've added the extra coolant to the tank, drive it for awhile then let it cool down for a few hours. Then slowly open the cap on the reservoir & release the air from it. Keep adding coolant to it as needed & releasing the air from it & after several days it should be fine. Hope this helps.
 

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Mine did this for the first few months I owned the truck. All the air eventually worked its way out, and I no longer have the noise.


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X69, Mine did the same thing. Add a lil 50/50 and it should go away. Quit goin to the dealer You have us now!!!
 

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No problem bud! That's what this site is all about; helping each other with common & unusual problems the dealer either won't or can't take care of! This site has definitely helped me out of a jam many, many times as well. Good luck to you & let us know how it turns out.
 

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No problem bud! That's what this site is all about; helping each other with common & unusual problems the dealer either won't or can't take care of! This site has definitely helped me out of a jam many, many times as well. Good luck to you & let us know how it turns out.
Ive been on few different car forums and this club is one of best!
 

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Ok. I picked up a truck yesterday from dealer. Today i drove about 1 hour or so and did hear water sounds. I parked my car for about 2 hours. Coolant level was little over MAX line, i released cap and felt/heard some air released.

Do i need add coolant? Truck must be sitting over night to check right cooant level?

Temp outside is 90 degree..

Thanks!
 

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To bleed the coolant you need to clamp off the reservoir and put a no spill funnel on the radiator. Fill the funnel and run the engine to temp with the heat set to max. Rev the engine to push out all the air.

 

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The coolant level on the reservoir is checked with the engine cold and running. With the engine off, it looks full. This stymies even seasoned Nissan techs at dealers.

1st thing in the morning pop the hood and look at the coolant level with the engine off. Then start the engine and look again. You will see the reservoir has less coolant in it. Fill it to the mark on the side. Shut the hood, go for a drive, find a steep hill and park. leave the engine running and cycle the heater through all settings. You may need to repeat this process once or twice.
 

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To bleed the coolant you need to clamp off the reservoir and put a no spill funnel on the radiator. Fill the funnel and run the engine to temp with the heat set to max. Rev the engine to push out all the air.



FYI, Just so it helps to understand, the purpose of doing this is to get the coolant level physically higher so that it will bleed the air out properly.
 

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FYI, Just so it helps to understand, the purpose of doing this is to get the coolant level physically higher so that it will bleed the air out properly.
Using the clamps and funnel well get the job done quickly and safely. You need the termostat to open. Hot coolant expands and will spill out of the radiator. Reving the engine pushes the air pockets out and also pushes coolant out of the radiator.

Think of a pot of water on the stove. If you put it on the burner full of water it will boil and spill some out. Also think of filling a bucket to the brim and then running with it. You're going to lose water that way as well.
 

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That is an overly complicated way of topping off a cooling system and buying tools that you don't need.
Just did a complete coolant change. Left the drain plug open all night, squeezed hoses, even shot compressed air through the system to get as much of the old coolant out as possible without actually putting the garden hose into the flush (tap water has rocks in it). I just added fresh coolant and drove it. One 22 mile road trip later and a little top off and it has stayed full, bubble free, heater works, no running water sound.

I've seen people insist you have to have the front of the truck up on ramps, the heater on high, a bunch of lies. Add coolant, let the degas bottle do it's job, degas the cooling system. As long as it isn't low on coolant it will fix itself. And the heater on high? Show me the heater control valves that stops the coolant flow through the heater core if the heater is off (I'll give you a hint, nobody ever will because there isn't a heater shut off valve on these trucks). Advise that works on a '95 Mazda pickup isn't the correct advise for working on a newer Nissan truck.

But the advise of adding coolant is the correct one. Just NEVER EVER take the cap off any cooling system that is warmed up. Scalding water leaves nasty burns.
 

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^ I do agree with you for the most part about not going thru a bunch of hassle to purge air from the cooling system, especially on a new vehicle. However, it does state in the FSM that once the engine has reached nominal operating temp to set the temp control knob to the highest setting then to run the engine at 2k-3k rpm for several seconds to help push air from the system. This is to make sure the heater core is purged of air as well as the rest of the system. Afterwards, to keep an eye on the level & top off as necessary. It even states to turn the heater control to high before draining the system. You don't necessarily have to turn the fan control knob to the high setting as this only controls the air flow coming from the vents & has nothing to do with coolant going thru the heater core itself. I think that's where quite a few people get confused.

Saying that the front of the vehicle needs to be elevated & having the heater on high is a "bunch of lies", might be a bit on the overkill side in & of itself. Both techniques have their merits & certainly don't make the situation any worse than it already is. I believe everyone, including both you & I, are simply passing on their knowledge &/or past experience in what worked in solving an issue they or someone else might have had. Don't you agree?

I think what might be a better plan is taking the OPs issues in stages. Try, what you & I have suggested, filling the reservoir & driving for awhile then relieving the air from it periodically. If that doesn't solve it then try putting the truck on ramps & running it with the reservoir cap off. If it still doesn't solve the issue then try the ramp, the funnel, & anything else that may help. And if for some reason none of that takes care of the issue, then there's definitely more going on than any of us first thought.
 

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The way I do it is how a Nissan tech explained it. I don't think our trucks need to be raised either but many cars do have the the radiator mounted lower thanthe heater core. I also know we don't have a way of stopping flow through the heater core. Turning the heat on lets you know if it is working well.

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for bunch good info guys. I did couple times released cap slowly and now i dont hear it much as before. I was going to add more coolant but it still shows at full even engine is cold.

Btw sorry for posted on wrong section. I did not know i posted on Off road section... lol
 

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Thanks for bunch good info guys. I did couple times released cap slowly and now i dont hear it much as before. I was going to add more coolant but it still shows at full even engine is cold.

Btw sorry for posted on wrong section. I did not know i posted on Off road section... lol
The level is reading full with the engine running, correct?
 
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