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Viper 5901 \ XK07 2006 frontier

4701 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Phlame217
I just purchased Viper 5901 and XK07 for a 2006 Nissan Frontier. If anyone can give me tips on the wiring.
One of the questions I have is should I use the D2D from the XK07 and plug it into the viper? If so do I still have to use the W2W from the XK07.

Any help would be much appreciated

[email protected]

:comphead:
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i dont have a clue what that is
Haha just got done doing the Viper 5901 and the DLPK transponder bypass (also a type of xpresskit bypass) on my 08SE CC Frontier.

Do it D2D. With the xk07, theres no reason to do W2W. If you need any help finding wires or anything, let me know. I spent 4 hours today multimetering all my wires and verifying they were correct.

One hint though, when it comes to parking lights, the quickest way is to tap the trailer harness that is taped up under the dash. the red wire is the + parking lights. This keeps you from the hassle of tapping the gray wire in the drivers kick in the wire bundle going to the rear, as it does not work! lol

Once again, if you need anything let me know.
Any help with connectiong the 5901 would be much appreciated. Did you take any pictures?

Thx

So I connect the D2D and also the brown wire to the viper?
Battery GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 WHITE/GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 3 WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 GREEN/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 GRAY (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 2 LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type NISSAN NVIS® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER
Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
Key Sense BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Tachometer LIGHT BLUE (AC) AT ECM MODULE BEHIND RIGHT FRONT STRUT TOWER
Crankshaft Sensor GREEN (+) AT ECM MODULE ON PASSENGER SIDE OF FIREWALL UNDER HOOD
Camshaft Sensor BLUE (-) AT ECM MODULE ON PASSENGER SIDE OF FIREWALL UNDER HOOD
Speed Sense LIGHT BLUE (AC) IN HARNESS TO GAUGES
Parking Lights RED/SILVER DOTS (+) IN A 6 PIN CONNECTOR NEAR THE DIAGNOSTIC PLUG TAPED TO THE HARNESS TO THE RIGHT OF STEERING COLUMN
Brake Lights YELLOW (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights LIGHT BLUE (+) IN HARNESS ON PASSENGER FRAMERAIL
Horn BROWN (-) IN HARNESS AT STEERING CLOUMN
Anti Theft RX GRAY (DATA) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti Theft TX BROWN (DATA) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Alarm Indicator GRAY (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
Rear Defrost YELLOW

All Door Trigger BROWN (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
Domelight Super BROWN (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
LF Latch GRAY (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
RF Latch LIGHT GREEN (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
LR Latch PINK (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
RR Latch BLUE (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
Alarm Disarm GRAY (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
Alarm Arm LIGHT BLUE (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
Parking Lights RED/SILVER DOTS (+) IN A 6 PIN CONNECTOR NEAR THE DIAGNOSTIC PLUG TAPED TO THE HARNESS TO THE RIGHT OF STEERING COLUMN

Power Unlock LIGHT GREEN (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
PowerLock VIOLET (-) AT BCM MODULE BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH ABOVE PEDALS BEHIND DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
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That wiring is wrong!!!! Dont follow it (or atleast part of it)
Heres the wiring I followed, tested, and proved worked:

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Thx Phlame217 - I am going for it this weekend. Have to take lots of pictures to share the wealth
i had problems with a few d2d plugs. So now i just cut them off and wire the blue and black to 12v and ground
D2D is known to have some problems, but after reading alot, its pretty common what happens: Either right off the bat there will be problems, or right off the bat there wont be. If there isnt, you're golden, if there is, just give up and go W2W.

In my case, everything is working just dandy, so D2D it stays.
confused

The more I read the posting the more confused in getting..lol:laugh:
I wont have time until late tonight but I'll post a step by step dash dissasembly and location of all the wires. I work two jobs and get done here at 530 and then go sell cars from 6 to 930 and then I have plan with friends so it'll be around 12 to 1 am cst.

just to clea some confusion, w2w stand for wire to wire and d2d means data to data. Any xpress kit can communicate via a d2d plug to the alarm brain but alot of people have issues. Therefore, you have the option of directly connecting ever wire from the xpress kit directly to the alarm wires.
That would be great...Thx for taking time out
Dash Assembly:
Two phillips screw, first is near OBDII connector.
Second is behind plastic panel. To get to it, remove the door trim that runs from the kick panel to the middle piece between front and rear doors. Next remove dead peddle by popping center fascia circle out and removing philips screw then popping the peddle off.
Finally, remove kick pannel fascia.
Next between the dash and the rubber door weather seal, theres a rectangular piece of door trim approx 12" by 3" or so, pull it back to reveal the last screw.

The lower knee dash area should pop out now, be careful though because you will have to disconnect any wires running to controls on the left side.

Metal Bar removal:
Now the the lower dash is exposed, there is a metal bar that can be removed to allow more work space. Just use a socket to remove the two bolts and the piece will slide off, the bolts are either 10 or 12 mm, i dont remember.

Wire Locations:
BCM:
This module is located on the right of the steering column. It has three plugs running to it, one black and two white, you will find door pin, dome light, lock motor, and canbus wires here [canbus can also be found running the the OBDII connector]. Also located in this vicinity is the trailer plug for an electric break, the red wire can be used for + parking light tap.

Ignition Wires:
Moving left towards the steering column, look up and you will find a 6 pin white connector with large and medium gauge wires. Reference chart for what each does, but all of these wires can be found in the drivers kick aside from the two starter wires [the wires will be same color and size in the drivers kick, third connector from the bottom].

Also, another small plug here contains the horn wire.

Drivers kick:
The bottom connector has nothing of use.
The next connector up with all very small gauge wires has both lock and unlock wires.
Next connector up has the ignition wires, accessory, etc (note* two 12v constant wires can be found here, the same grey one in the ignition wires and the white is also a 12v constant.]

Brake Wire:
Found at the plug closest to the floor board above the break peddle, a yellow wire.

Tachometer:
I used the DLPK for this purpose, it provides the tach via the canbus connection therefore I didnt have to tap an ignition coil.

That should be it but a few tech tips:
T-Taps = fail, solder and/or crimp all connections
There is a wire boot to be easily tapped just to the upper left of the brake peddle.
Try to gound everything to the same location (brain, siren, neutral ground, etc)
The pin numbers listed in the schematics and the other sources dont correlate, if in doubt, be sure to meter all connections with dmm.

Any other troubles, let me know.
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Very helpful what you send. I hook up all the wires and I get a chirp when I lock the doors but doors don't lock and unlock. Would you mind if I emailed you the wiring schmatic and maybe you can shed sme light. my email address is [email protected]
Thx again for your help

Tony
I don't remember off the top of my head, but 1 the lock wires are soo small you need to solder to get a good connection and 2 the wires aren't striped, they actually change colors at the connector.
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