Two phillips screw, first is near OBDII connector.
Second is behind plastic panel. To get to it, remove the door trim that runs from the kick panel to the middle piece between front and rear doors. Next remove dead peddle by popping center fascia circle out and removing philips screw then popping the peddle off.
Finally, remove kick pannel fascia.
Next between the dash and the rubber door weather seal, theres a rectangular piece of door trim approx 12" by 3" or so, pull it back to reveal the last screw.
The lower knee dash area should pop out now, be careful though because you will have to disconnect any wires running to controls on the left side.
Metal Bar removal:
Now the the lower dash is exposed, there is a metal bar that can be removed to allow more work space. Just use a socket to remove the two bolts and the piece will slide off, the bolts are either 10 or 12 mm, i dont remember.
This module is located on the right of the steering column. It has three plugs running to it, one black and two white, you will find door pin, dome light, lock motor, and canbus wires here [canbus can also be found running the the OBDII connector]. Also located in this vicinity is the trailer plug for an electric break, the red wire can be used for + parking light tap.
Moving left towards the steering column, look up and you will find a 6 pin white connector with large and medium gauge wires. Reference chart for what each does, but all of these wires can be found in the drivers kick aside from the two starter wires [the wires will be same color and size in the drivers kick, third connector from the bottom].
Also, another small plug here contains the horn wire.
The bottom connector has nothing of use.
The next connector up with all very small gauge wires has both lock and unlock wires.
Next connector up has the ignition wires, accessory, etc (note* two 12v constant wires can be found here, the same grey one in the ignition wires and the white is also a 12v constant.]
Found at the plug closest to the floor board above the break peddle, a yellow wire.
I used the DLPK for this purpose, it provides the tach via the canbus connection therefore I didnt have to tap an ignition coil.
That should be it but a few tech tips:
T-Taps = fail, solder and/or crimp all connections
There is a wire boot to be easily tapped just to the upper left of the brake peddle.
Try to gound everything to the same location (brain, siren, neutral ground, etc)
The pin numbers listed in the schematics and the other sources dont correlate, if in doubt, be sure to meter all connections with dmm.
Any other troubles, let me know.