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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just thought I'd make a build thread to stay on the ball.

Here's some background and mods for anyone interested.

Bought this truck for $200 not running so I used the money that I saved to go over everything, runs great now bone dry with no leaks. It's my daily driver with 220k but when I rebuilt the top end I found that the cylinders still have their factory crosshatch. Perfect candidate for boost!

01 v6 2wd crew cab, synthetic Amsoil in everything

DT long tube headers(wrapped), 2.5 inch full exhaust no cats back to a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and flowmaster big block 70 series (I'll be chopping it up just where the y pipe ends and the two pipes merge for a mid mount turbo with a remote oiling system)

Volant cold air intake (which I'll be getting rid of when I go forced induction)

JWT S2 cams and springs and a complete top end rebuild with OEM parts

Did the clutch (luk), flywheel, release bearing and rear seal while I was in there(was leaking)

Also did all u joints, trans and rear end seals, carrier bearing while I was in there

2 inch spacers all around for stance on OEM wheels with 265/70/16 Yokohama geolandars

Poly bushings front to rear including leaf spring bushings

Bilstein shocks all around (stock ones were toast), sway away torsion bars and leveled out the front with just low profile bumpstops. The front is higher than the rear but I like the stace

Replaced entire 3rd brake light with a modified led assembly

Replaced rear lights with eBay chrome housings with all led bulbs, rewired the 3157 sockets for dual filament so I have 4 bulbs (2 per side) always on with driving lights, the one set gets brighter with turn signals... Then the others get brighter with brakes

Replaced front headlight assemblies with eBay chrome projector housings and running a set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for low beams, another set of 10000k HID's on 55watt ballasts for high beams, rewired turn signals for switchback led.. fogs and switchbacks are always on with driving lights.

Put in a diode so that my low beams stay on when I switch to highs instead of alternating

Foglight projectors with 3000k hid 55watt ballasts

When I had the heads off for the cams I painted the engine bay and all the parts blue and silver

Also painted my entire undercarriage hammerite black

Running a walbro 255 in tank pump

Gauges - oil pressure, wideband o2, boost (for my next upcoming project, t3/t4 hybrid mid mount turbo with fuel and ignition controlled by AEM FI/C)

Since i want to keep my expensive headers I'm fabricating a remote oil system - Oil feed coming from a 2 quart aluminum reservoir pressured by a turbowerx exa pump, gravity drained back into reservoir mounted lower than the turbo

I have all the parts just waiting for the time (have exhaust piping, intercooler piping, wastegate, bov, flanges, etc)

The only things left until I either total the truck or blow the motor are the turbo and some bodywork. If the fi/c can give me a nice and rich AFR under boost and work my timing properly then I'll tackle the bodywork. I'm not interested I'm going the megasquirt standalone route unless I absolutely have to but I have heard good things about the fi/c

I tried a apexi safc 2 to play with AFR but the OBD2 is too smart to be fooled with that piggyback. The only time you can alter AFR with it is when you go into open loop WOT, other than that the ECU just immediately corrects it. Plus it can't manipulate ignition timing. So I need to sell that

I think with just the stock MAF the fi/c should be good, I plan on running 10psi max

I'll be running the MAF pre turbo, no intercooler (should be cool enough through all that mid mount piping)

If I get high IAT I'll throw an intercooler in there, but I doubt it

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Since i want to keep my expensive headers
Since you are using your headers, the turbo will be mounted remote?
Turbocharged is the way to go.
My first experience with turbos was a older friend had a turbocharged Corvair.I was probably 10 years old but was fascinated.
Next was the Honda Hawk land speed record bike. Another friend was involved in the development at Honda American. We actually end up with the cases.
Same with Bill Hahn's turboed Honda fours back when I was involved in motorcycle drag racing. I have a few friends that built their own turbo systems years ago. One on a 240z. The other in a Trans Am with a 327 Chevy small block.
I turboed my 92 Ford diesel. Still running strong after I sold it to a friend.
Although I can't turbo my truck( rules won't allow, I will be following your progress.
Sorry for the rambling but I love turbos!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Since you are using your headers, the turbo will be mounted remote?
Turbocharged is the way to go.
My first experience with turbos was a older friend had a turbocharged Corvair.I was probably 10 years old but was fascinated.
Next was the Honda Hawk land speed record bike. Another friend was involved in the development at Honda American. We actually end up with the cases.
Same with Bill Hahn's turboed Honda fours back when I was involved in motorcycle drag racing. I have a few friends that built their own turbo systems years ago. One on a 240z. The other in a Trans Am with a 327 Chevy small block.
I turboed my 92 Ford diesel. Still running strong after I sold it to a friend.
Although I can't turbo my truck( rules won't allow, I will be following your progress.
Sorry for the rambling but I love turbos!
Yes, remote mount (mid mount, just after the y pipe) with a remote oiling system

I don't like the idea of running 180s off my headers for an engine bay turbo because of restrictions in exhaust, space restrictions and I also am not set up to weld new turbo manifold headers because I only have a wire feed

The proper way to do this is turbo manifolds with a twin turbo setup like the vg30det 300zx guys

I don't think the lag should be too bad because of the size of the turbo, if I can spool at low rpm then that might also encourage me to run an intercooler

Ideally I want to spool at as low rpms as possible, I don't take her above 6k

Right now when I watch my boost gauge I can reach 0psi instantly with a blip of the throttle so I would expect to boost fairly easy with forced induction

This is the turbo
http://www.speedyracer.com/turbo/turbocharger/External-wastegated-Turbocharger/EMUSA-T3T4-HYBRID-CHROME-TURBOCHARGER-T04E-AR-63(450hp)

It's one of the higher end eBay Chinese type turbos, not bottom of the barrel but not a garrett

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Sounds like you got it figured out.
Yeah lag is a problem with gas motors.
Bill Hahn,("Action Fours") back in the day cured the problem. They would ride the bike to the track, run 150 mph but no ET.
Later he had a jet that was directed at the impeller. The jet was hooked up to a small bottle of nitrogen. When he left the line he would hit a button that would shoot a stream of nitrogen at the impellers and spin the turbo. Outrageous ET's!
Have any idea what your exhaust temps will be? That is the killer of turboed motors but you know that.
Keep us informed on your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like you got it figured out.
Yeah lag is a problem with gas motors.
Bill Hahn,("Action Fours") back in the day cured the problem. They would ride the bike to the track, run 150 mph but no ET.
Later he had a jet that was directed at the impeller. The jet was hooked up to a small bottle of nitrogen. When he left the line he would hit a button that would shoot a stream of nitrogen at the impellers and spin the turbo. Outrageous ET's!
Have any idea what your exhaust temps will be? That is the killer of turboed motors but you know that.
Keep us informed on your progress.
IMG_20170529_133230166.jpg

Since it's further away from the headers I need as much heat as possible to the turbo for it to work efficiently. I wrapped my headers when I had them off and I'll be wrapping the rest of my exhaust to the turbo once I start chopping it up. I bought a turbo exhaust housing blanket as well. I need all the heat I can get.

Once I finish the build I plan on fabricating a skid plate to box in the turbo mostly for protection from the elements but that will also help hold in some heat outside of the blanket

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Sweet, another turbo build! I was running my truck on an SAFC2 as well, but driveability sucked. You should be able to use a 300zx sensor pre-turbo for measuring air. Because I'm 4 cylinder I'm kind of cheating and planning on going with a 240 ecu with an adapter harness. Maybe you can do something similar with a 300zx ecu?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet, another turbo build! I was running my truck on an SAFC2 as well, but driveability sucked. You should be able to use a 300zx sensor pre-turbo for measuring air. Because I'm 4 cylinder I'm kind of cheating and planning on going with a 240 ecu with an adapter harness. Maybe you can do something similar with a 300zx ecu?
What do you mean by drivability sucked?

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Discussion Starter #10
IMG_20170529_122902482_HDR.jpg

Here's some older pics from the cam swap, heads off and engine bay painted (still need to clean the paint off the hoses

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
IMG_20170619_171224239_HDR.jpg

Back together (still need to clean off the hoses, I wasn't about to tape them all off that would have taken way too long)

Changed the loom to blue and tried to re route the engine harness but it didn't come out that great. The plus is the old loom was cracking, brittle and heat damaged so changing it protects it.

The minus, I don't like the stock location of the engine harness at all and I want to tuck the bulk of it. Unfortunately the only way I see that getting done is all the wires need to be extended to tuck it. Anyone have any other ideas? Of course the coolant temp sensor, injector harness, MAF and tps will have to be there but everything else doesn't

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Discussion Starter #13
IMG_20170706_155300408_HDR.jpg
Here's a shot of how it looks with the 2" spacers on stock wheels and also the headlights and foglights

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
And the underbody rust protection (not done yet, but I took off the bed and did the underside of it plus the top of the frame with the bed off)

You can see the back of the big flowmaster 70 series and the painted fuel tank brackets

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
IMG_20170711_170726189_HDR.jpg

Here's how I set up my gauges, the last hole is for one more oil pressure gauge to monitor the turbo's independent oiling system. The blue matches my blue led cluster and HVAC controls

I swapped plugs for the cigarette lighter because the one I cut out is constant 12v and I wanted that on my remaining one

I didn't want to buy the a pillar gauge mount from 4x4parts because I want them to be discrete, this way I can throw a shirt over the whole gauge assembly if I want

It's a universal gauge mount so the fitment isn't great, at some point I'll work on the protruding edges later on so it matches the console and looks cleaner. Also need to fix the gap between the top of the gauge mount and the section of the console that I had to cut out to fit this assembly in . I just threw it together quick

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Tinting my windows tomorrow

I got 5% black pre cut sheets for all 4 windows and the rear

Got sick of clear windows

It will be my first tinting job

The outsides are full of thousands of small scratches like, none big enough to catch my finger nail, so I'm going to polish them all out with cerium oxide (glass scratch remover). It will probably take me all day to make them clear

Later on (another day) I'll do the windshield in either 20% or 35%. Can't get a pre cut windshield sheet so I'll have to buy a roll and cut it myself. Better off to wait on this until I gain the experience tinting the rest of the windows

I already pretty much have all the parts for the turbo project so My next steps are to:

mock up the exhaust piping, intercooler piping, blowoff valve and wastegate vacuum lines. This mock up will be temporary, I'll take apart my current exhaust to mock it up, weld up all new piping, and then put all the old stuff back so that when I'm ready it will be a fast and easy install

Mock up a support bracket for the turbo, also box it in to keep road debris and water out. I want it sitting just after the y pipe

Mock up a box for the cone air filter. This will probably mount up as close to the bed as I can get it

install a vacuum block running off the brake booster,

Put a check valve in line with the idle air control line to prevent it from leaking boost back into the intake manifold

Put a small breather on the valve cover vent line and plug off the other side on the intake side. Don't want a pressurized valve cover

Throw a non vented and baffled catch can in line with the pcv hose (extra assurance, plus I've been wanting to do this for a while) I don't see any problem in keeping the stock pcv system

Put in my 4lb wastegate spring for initial testing

Mock up the reservoir bracket, pump bracket, feed and return lines, plumb my oil pressure gauge into the feed line, run the wiring for the sending unit. I need the reservoir sitting low enough to gravity drain but not low enough to be hanging down below the rearend

Run the wiring for the pump with thick wire straight to the battery with a relay pulling signal voltage from the fuel pump circuit, although not necessary that will allow me to prime the pump and turbo at the same time the fuel pump primes (one click of the key).

The main point of this mimicing the fuel pump is because I don't want it operated by a switch which could be forgotten (blow the turbo)

Some of this stuff will be installed permanently after mocking it up, but of course the turbo and exhaust piping won't

Set up AEM fic, figure out how to make it give me my rich AFR's

Throw on 4x4parts rear lift shackles to gain a bit more clearance for the turbo (front already has a torsion bar crank with ultra low profile bump stops do it's sitting higher than the rear)

I won't do it all at once, kind of a slow process

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I did 3 windows and they came out like crap so I ripped the tints off. I got most of the bubbles out but each one had a crease in it that I couldn't get out even with a heat gun. I was hoping they would at least come out decent but this wasn't acceptable. I suck at tinting (not surprised, this was my first time. It might be my only time too, that's how bad it came out)

Now that my foot is already in the door for the tint I think I want to get it done professionally

At least I got the outside of the glass polished. The cerium oxide made a big difference on hard water stains and sand scratches. The Windex vs the cerium oxide is unbelievable. But I was polishing for about 8 hours straight with my 3 inch glass polishing pad on my cordless drill. and i had to wash the truck 3 times afterwards, its still dirty

The cerium oxide sprays everywhere with the drill and it's like clay , even hardens like clay. But I can see the difference looking at my reflection in the windows and I can hear it as it squeals running a rag over the surface of the glass, so it did a really good job

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