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Now that it's getting warmer out I want to get under my 09 Frontier and get all this surface rust off. What is the best way to do this myself without laying on my back in my driveway with a wire brush lol there a good amount of rust underneath and I'd like to remove it all and spray it.



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I purchased a "Used" 2012 model in late 2015 and it was not quite as bad as yours....
The under carriage was addressed , spots and areas of rust from Minnesota winters / road salt , I laid under my truck for an entire weekend with a wire brush and a circular wire brush and a drill after that I touched up all the spots and areas with Chassis paint Paint Over Rust :
Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating
Some people use Por-15
Stop Rust with POR-15 - We Know What Permanent Means!

Lastly I brought the truck to what is most likely one of only a few Ziebart locations that actually take pride in there work and had the truck rust proofed , I even removed and the front fender inner wheel well liners so they could get way up in there.
 

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Yeah Theres a good amount under there..the truck is from Massachusetts..they use heavy salt there in the winters. Looks like I'll just have to crawl under there and start scraping


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Your going to be there forever and you wont get it all. I would get the PRO 15 products and do that. It will save you a lot of time and even if you scrape / wire wheel it all you won't get all the rust off and it will continue to rust under the paint.
 

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I need to do this. Dang California SALTed roads.

Can you tell me more about the 2 products listed. Assume that once you prevent oxygen from reaching the steel then no further rust will form.
 

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agree with gordon that if you try scraping you'll be there forever & still miss some. The Chassis Saver paint is a 1-step convertor/encapsulator & topcoat that dries like epoxy or concrete. Once its on there, its not coming off and theres no issue with rust under the paint as it converts all the rust.

1) get the truck up on ramps and pressure-wash/blast off all the rust/sand/mud/salt/crud. Let dry. Just leave it there to dry, don't drive anywhere.

2) Wear coveralls or a painters suit, gloves &goggles/faceshield. DON'T LEAVE ANY skin exposed.

3)Paint on preferred 'paint'. I prefer CS over POR15 as POR is a 3 step (clean/prep/paint) system vs 1 step. I tried POR15 years ago on an old truck. didn't use their prep chems and had some spots that did not adhere. had to scrape & repaint those areas. I've not seen this happen with CS as long as you degrease.

Eastwood Company also has some good convertor/encapsulator 'paint'

Be sure when painting it on to get it on heavy. really brush it into any area with angles.

If you get CS or POR on your skin or hair, you'll be cutting your hair or waiting for your dead skin for a few weeks (like getting superglue on your fingertip but more obvious)

I need to do this. Dang California SALTed roads.

Can you tell me more about the 2 products listed. Assume that once you prevent oxygen from reaching the steel then no further rust will form.
both convert &encapsulate the rust/metal, sealing O2 from the metal.... no O2, no rust, even if it was present before
 

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If you get CS or POR on your skin or hair, you'll be cutting your hair or waiting for your dead skin for a few weeks (like getting superglue on your fingertip but more obvious)
No truer statement can be made about these products!!!!!!!!!!!!! :surprise:
 

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ask me how I know...
---- I dont need to ask.. :) I used a body 'schutz' gun to apply mine! My wife kept telling people that I was dying of a very rare disease! The ‘overspray’ took weeks and weeks until it was gone!
 

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Or you could use this cool laser to remove rust:
https://youtu.be/Q8q3DZB_l6M
Not sure what it costs but I want one.


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Road & Track found it runs about $53k..... we could organize a regional co-op buy to make it more affordable... :rofl:

not as cool but the paint is much cheaper... for smaller stuff you can use electrolysis...
 
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