TWX's '15 SV CC LWB 4x4
Figure I may as well start a build thread, I've done enough to the vehicle and have plans for the future.
Truck is a 2015 Frontier SV, not a value truck package model, crew cab, long 139.9" wheelbase, 4x4. This means a crew cab with a 6' bed. It's a V6 automatic with 3.357:1 differential gears and C200K axle in the back.
I'll expand out the modifications by consolidating posted info from around the forum but so far here's what I've done:
Truck is a 2015 Frontier SV, not a value truck package model, crew cab, long 139.9" wheelbase, 4x4. This means a crew cab with a 6' bed. It's a V6 automatic with 3.357:1 differential gears and C200K axle in the back.
I'll expand out the modifications by consolidating posted info from around the forum but so far here's what I've done:
- Source junkyard OE hitch and wiring from an '06 and install
- Replace broken 7-pin towing electrical connector with an aftermarket 7/4 connector
- Wire-up the 3rd brake light on the LEER camper shell with disconnectable SAE connectors bulkhead-mounted
- Add Utilitrack rail behind the cab with factory hardware
- Add Utilitrack rails into the floor of the bed by drilling new holes
- Install Fumoto-type oil drain valve
- Replace factory mirrors with Trail Ridge towing mirrors
- Install Hefty Fabworks aluminum engine skid
Delete the front lower valence (this might be put back on)- Acquired a Raider Lorider one piece fiberglass tonneau cover
- Installed Harken Hoister lifting system in the garage to allow install and removal of LEER cab-height canopy and Raider tonneau
- Protops tall canopy 2022-04-08
- Replace OE 16" 12-spoke aluminum wheels with OE-spare 17" steel wheels and ACDelco multibrand TPMS sensors
- Replace Kelly Edge AT tires with 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac tires in SL load rating
- Fabricate and install in-bumper front receiver for winch mounting
- Relocate power steering cooler to make clearance for the front receiver
- Wire-in high-amp fuse, AB-switch, and 1/0 gauge cabling with anderson connectors for modular winch at front and back
- Installation of Redarc Towpro Elite trailer brake controller
- Fabricate front recovery points out of 4" by 1/2" angle iron and install with D-ring shackles
- Replace the rear seat headrests with headrests out of an early-model Armada
- Install Alldogs Offroad 1.5" add-a-leafs
- Install Timbren rubber springs to replace the heavy overload leafs
- Install Pathfinder V8 12.6" (320mm) front brakes
- Install Hefty Fabworks aluminum transmission skidplate
- Install front suspension camber bolts
- Install Bilstein 5100 front struts
- Install Pathfinder V8 (technically MOOG) coil springs
- Extended UCA ball joints for more clearance before coil bucket contact
- Adjusted Bilstein 5100s for one more notch of lift and installed a spacer on the shock rod stack to allow for additional droop
- Reinstalled lower front valence after cutting to fit the custom front recovery points
- Installed Bilstein 5100 rear shocks
- Tested 3# lighter 4Cyl Frontier/Pathfinder/Xterra front sway bar
- Dealt with a broken key (plastic part) by replacing it with a Rogue key and moving the transponder
- Built an aluminum radiator skid plate out of 5052 1/8" doubled-up for extra thickness
- Built a replacement for the rear bumper for swingouts for spare tire and fuel cans
- Installed Rough Country 1.5" lift-shackles on the rear suspension to deal with travel issues after building that rear swingout bumper assembly.
- Replace squared-off rear axle u-bolts with inverted round U-bolts
- Install backup camera into the tailgate
- Figure out a way to add bedrail utilitrack rails to a non-VTP truck
- Titan 28 gallon fuel tank install -or- aftermarket fuel tank install
- ID1000 TPMS display (ford protocol, aftermarket sensors will work with this)
- A-pillar replacement plastic for gauge pod(s)
- Transmission temperature sensor
- Reconfiguration of infotainment/radio dash
- single-din broadcast radio receiver with large external screen
- in-dash communications radio
- GMRS?
- Amateur?
- CB?
- Australian rooftop commercial radio antenna in center spot
- communications radio antenna to replace factory spot on passenger cowl
Used M226 rear axle with electric lockermost likely would go helical LSD in C200k instead- M205 front diff and Pathfinder V8 CV shafts
- Installation of fog lights (and switches for dual-mode)
- Replacement of stock headlight bulbs with aftermarket/brighter
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
I didn't realize you got your upper extended ball joints in, how did that work out? Right ones the first time.. anxious to see the long term on these!
Also curious as to why you may put the front valance back on? I was thinking of trimming mine down on the end sections for looks wise.
You've done a lot to it .. I've been following most of your mods but somehow missed the extended ball joint conclusion. No mention of ill affects above so I take it their working as intended. Keep up the good work!
Also curious as to why you may put the front valance back on? I was thinking of trimming mine down on the end sections for looks wise.
You've done a lot to it .. I've been following most of your mods but somehow missed the extended ball joint conclusion. No mention of ill affects above so I take it their working as intended. Keep up the good work!
They went right in no problem, friction press-fit even when just pulled out of the freezer. 46.2mm if memory serves. Ended up having to reuse the old snap rings which I'd read might well be the case. The zerks were missing of course, but they were the cheapest ones I could get. $3.00 on zerks at the ace hardware solved that part. And obviously greased them.I didn't realize you got your upper extended ball joints in, how did that work out? Right ones the first time.. anxious to see the long term on these!
Also curious as to why you may put the front valance back on? I was thinking of trimming mine down on the end sections for looks wise.
You've done a lot to it .. I've been following most of your mods but somehow missed the extended ball joint conclusion. No mention of ill affects above so I take it their working as intended. Keep up the good work!
No pictures of it, but during today's oil change while waiting for the oil to slooowly drain through the fumoto-type drain plug, I decided to put the front lower valence / air dam back on. This proved more involved than I expected.
Sorry, I didn't take any pictures.
First, I realized that due to the design of the three-piece air dam, I would have to reverse how my shackles are slid into the 1/2" plate for the recovery points. The problem is that the factory thin sheet metal radiator protector thing juts out too far to the sides, so the bolts for the D-rings couldn't clear enough to slide in. So I took the thing off (which gave me easier access to remove the filter anyway) and I took a hammer to the outer lower corners, bashing them in enough to make for clearance for the shackle bolts. this required a couple of times working the metal, and I'm not 100% thrilled as the driver's side will still be mildly challenging to deal with, but I can get the shackles in and out with the bolts sliding in from the center now.
Then I cut the opening for the side that lacked it (driver's?) and test-fit. Ended up having to trim a little more material around the holes, but I was able to get things to fit. Then it was just a matter of putting the outer parts on, mostly reaching through behind the wheel well insert. Also ended up driving one screw through on each side where the air deflector pieces meet, since they were not lining up real well. It'll do.
Even with my 255/75/17 tires and camber-bolts thrusting the front suspension more forward, there was no rubbing. By like, an eighth of an inch. Even with the mild lift.
Sorry, I didn't take any pictures.
First, I realized that due to the design of the three-piece air dam, I would have to reverse how my shackles are slid into the 1/2" plate for the recovery points. The problem is that the factory thin sheet metal radiator protector thing juts out too far to the sides, so the bolts for the D-rings couldn't clear enough to slide in. So I took the thing off (which gave me easier access to remove the filter anyway) and I took a hammer to the outer lower corners, bashing them in enough to make for clearance for the shackle bolts. this required a couple of times working the metal, and I'm not 100% thrilled as the driver's side will still be mildly challenging to deal with, but I can get the shackles in and out with the bolts sliding in from the center now.
Then I cut the opening for the side that lacked it (driver's?) and test-fit. Ended up having to trim a little more material around the holes, but I was able to get things to fit. Then it was just a matter of putting the outer parts on, mostly reaching through behind the wheel well insert. Also ended up driving one screw through on each side where the air deflector pieces meet, since they were not lining up real well. It'll do.
Even with my 255/75/17 tires and camber-bolts thrusting the front suspension more forward, there was no rubbing. By like, an eighth of an inch. Even with the mild lift.
I pulled an '05 Pathfinder V6 front swaybar and tested it on the front of the truck. It should be the same part as the 4cyl Frontier and the Xterra. It maybe helped a little for articulation but it's hard to say.
Also replaced the rear original rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s.
Lastly I did the Rogue Key programming. One of my two stock keys had the plastic bow break, so I hacked out the transponder and put it into a Rogue Key that I'd previously had cut. This allows me to ditch the separate fob so I can carry the fob for another vehicle on my keyring.
Also replaced the rear original rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s.
Lastly I did the Rogue Key programming. One of my two stock keys had the plastic bow break, so I hacked out the transponder and put it into a Rogue Key that I'd previously had cut. This allows me to ditch the separate fob so I can carry the fob for another vehicle on my keyring.
Not real good at keeping this thread updated.
Some time ago I had lifted the rear of the truck with AALs, and installed Timbren rubber overload springs out of a Nissan Titan. At the time I had plenty of clearance, the Timbrens only came into effect incidentally.
More recently I built a new double-swingarm rear bumper assembly for the spare tire carrier and for three jerry cans. It's awesome, but it's heavy. Fully loaded I was contacting the Timbrens a lot.
Then I tried towing. yeesh. Bascially riding on the Timbrens because being for a Titan, they are much taller and would come into effect before the leafsprings would exhuast their normal range of travel.
So I added some taller shackles to bump the rear of the truck up, restoring the travel of the leafsprings, hopefully. We'll see how it plays out in earnest next time I tow.
Some time ago I had lifted the rear of the truck with AALs, and installed Timbren rubber overload springs out of a Nissan Titan. At the time I had plenty of clearance, the Timbrens only came into effect incidentally.
More recently I built a new double-swingarm rear bumper assembly for the spare tire carrier and for three jerry cans. It's awesome, but it's heavy. Fully loaded I was contacting the Timbrens a lot.
Then I tried towing. yeesh. Bascially riding on the Timbrens because being for a Titan, they are much taller and would come into effect before the leafsprings would exhuast their normal range of travel.
So I added some taller shackles to bump the rear of the truck up, restoring the travel of the leafsprings, hopefully. We'll see how it plays out in earnest next time I tow.
This is awesome, I would have like to have gotten in to making my own chit with a pipe bender. What's the pipe material running now days? Still cheaper than buying new and you can design your own m.. with practice! Unless this is what you do.
For all the metal I bought to bend-test I spent $50. I think this piece was actually stainless so it was considerably more expensive than I would normally wish to pay for the kind of steel I'd actually use, but they did not have much in the way of remnants in the sizes of my bending dies.This is awesome, I would have like to have gotten in to making my own chit with a pipe bender. What's the pipe material running now days? Still cheaper than buying new and you can design your own m.. with practice! Unless this is what you do.
I may look into additional dies, but I haven't decided exactly what I want to do.
At least you'll have it if you ever need it, I know there was a few times I wish I had one but I never taught myself how to weld so there's that too!
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