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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm hoping that you guys can help me out.

Today I went out and bought some Turtle Wax R.C and I applied it on my hood and other places. It was hot out and the truck was pretty hot. When I was done I looked and there were vertical streaks from where I had gone up and down with the rag to apply and remove. I later read that this isn't suppose to be used on clearcoat cars...

Anyways, has anyone used this on their car if so, how did you remove the marks/dullness (if there were any)?

Also, anyone know of a good way to get rid of it?

My plans are to buy this:

Amazon.com: Meguiar's Complete Car Care Kit: Automotive

and take a day or two clay kitting and doing everything that I need to do. Should I buy anything else/different than this, or is everything that I need in there?

Please help, my beautiful black truck looks a little duller and older now.

:censor::censor::censor::censor:
 

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I'm not a detail expert (we actually have at least one detail professional here), but before you buy that kit, you may want to hear from them. I believe you need at least one product in between rubbing compound and wax. Rubbing compound is a farily agressive abrasive; you're using it to try to remove deep scraches and other blemishes from the paint. You need to follow that with at least one stage of a less agressive polishing compound. If you can apply that CAREFULLY with a buffer that would be best. Polishing with progressively less agressive compounds will get your shine back, then you protect it with wax. That's the way I think it all works anyway; hopefully other will chime in (and there's probably lots of threads on this if you haven't searched already).
 

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As long as you didnt burn through the paint, it's reversible. Go get some clear coat polish. It's super thin, almost like water. Use it just like wax. It will take A LOT of rubbing, so you may want to look into an electric polisher. Just keep going with that until all scratches are gone. Wash the truck really good, then do a nice wax job on it. And try really hard not to do it in the sun.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not a detail expert (we actually have at least one detail professional here), but before you buy that kit, you may want to hear from them. I believe you need at least one product in between rubbing compound and wax. Rubbing compound is a farily agressive abrasive; you're using it to try to remove deep scraches and other blemishes from the paint. You need to follow that with at least one stage of a less agressive polishing compound. If you can apply that CAREFULLY with a buffer that would be best. Polishing with progressively less agressive compounds will get your shine back, then you protect it with wax. That's the way I think it all works anyway; hopefully other will chime in (and there's probably lots of threads on this if you haven't searched already).
Do you know who one of these people are so I can maybe PM them? I don't mind the work at all and I do have and orbital buffer that I could use. Do you know what products I could use to climb up the abrasive ladder?

As long as you didnt burn through the paint, it's reversible. Go get some clear coat polish. It's super thin, almost like water. Use it just like wax. It will take A LOT of rubbing, so you may want to look into an electric polisher. Just keep going with that until all scratches are gone. Wash the truck really good, then do a nice wax job on it. And try really hard not to do it in the sun.
Do you know of any good products that would work?
 

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I started with a clay bar then used a fine cut polishing compound then finished with a coat of wax. I had a lot of clear coat scratches from off roading and my paint was dull from improper detailing. The fine cut polishing compound removed a good majority of the scratches and made my paint nice and glossy again. And yes, the polishing compound will take a lot of rubbing(buffing) and use very clean micro fiber cloths.


:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I started with a clay bar then used a fine cut polishing compound then finished with a coat of wax. I had a lot of clear coat scratches from off roading and my paint was dull from improper detailing. The fine cut polishing compound removed a good majority of the scratches and made my paint nice and glossy again. And yes, the polishing compound will take a lot of rubbing(buffing) and use very clean micro fiber clothes.


:)
can you recommend any good products? I'm not sure if that kit I want to buy has one that will work.
 

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perhaps mcguire's scratch-x. I've used it w/good results and it's clearcoat friendly. Others may like other products but it works well and it's not too aggressive at all. It wont fix everything in one application so you may have to do it several times but that's a good thing as it's hard to "overdo it". Just remember to put a quality wax on it afterwards to seal it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks! That kit i'm going to buy should do the job then. I would really love to talk to one of the Detail Pros...not saying that I don't believe you or anyone else but I just want to get this done right the first time. Does anyone know who the member might so that I could PM him/her.

Thanks for all your help btw!
 

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can you recommend any good products? I'm not sure if that kit I want to buy has one that will work.
Here's what I used:

Meguiar's Car Wash
Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit with Quik Detailer
Turtle Wax Pro Polishing Compound (the store didn't carry any Meguiar's, but the Turtle Wax stuff worked real well to my surprise)
Meguiar's Gold Class Wax

I also bought Scratch-X, but didn't use it. Make sure to buy some extra microfiber cloths.

BTW...are you in Gilbert?

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That is the step that I was going to take when I got the kit from amazon. Here's a few questions.

1) Is the Rubbing compound the High abbrasive and the polishing compound the less abrasive?

2) Can I use the orbital buffer with the polishing compound? or should I just use elbow grease?

3) Can I buy a crap load of Microfiber towels and just use that for everything. Target (my work) is having a good sale on them. I think its like 10-12 for like $10.00.

yes, I am in good ol' Gilbert. This why I wasn't really planning on doing this kinda stuff yet since the monsoon will just come and blow it all away lol.
 

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One of these: Porter cable 7424xp, 7424xp, Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher, Porter Cable polisher, car polisher, buffer, sander-polisher
Good pads like these: Lake Country 6.5 FLAT Pads- 6 PACK
And Meguairs compounds, aggressive, medium and fine are all I use for paint correction.
3 stages, wash in between each stage, going from aggressive to medium to fine compounds.
This has taken care of any blemishes I've thrown at it (including getting keyed, lightly, down the whole side of my Frontier) as long as the scratches/marks aren't through the paint.
Then follow up with a true Carnuba wax (I hand apply the wax) and you should be good to go.
(Do all of this in the garage/shade etc, never in direct sunshine).

If that system above doesn't correct the paint, most likely you are SOL.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One of these: Porter cable 7424xp, 7424xp, Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher, Porter Cable polisher, car polisher, buffer, sander-polisher
Good pads like these: Lake Country 6.5 FLAT Pads- 6 PACK
And Meguairs compounds, aggressive, medium and fine are all I use for paint correction.
3 stages, wash in between each stage, going from aggressive to medium to fine compounds.
This has taken care of any blemishes I've thrown at it (including getting keyed, lightly, down the whole side of my Frontier) as long as the scratches/marks aren't through the paint.
Then follow up with a true Carnuba wax (I hand apply the wax) and you should be good to go.
(Do all of this in the garage/shade etc, never in direct sunshine).

If that system above doesn't correct the paint, most likely you are SOL.

Good luck.
Sir, you sound like you know what your are talking about. Might you be one of the detailing experts I have been looking for? haha

So Should I not even clay it? The paint/clearcoat doesn't seem to be in excellent condition and I heard the clay kit will take care of a lot of the bumps and stuff on it.

do you suggest that I go get all that meguair's stuff? Should I go ahead an buy that kit also? It seems to have everything I need after I get this problem sorted out.

Lastly and more importantly, should I do what you said to the whole car or just the the affected areas?
 

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Sir, you sound like you know what your are talking about. Might you be one of the detailing experts I have been looking for? haha

So Should I not even clay it? The paint/clearcoat doesn't seem to be in excellent condition and I heard the clay kit will take care of a lot of the bumps and stuff on it.

do you suggest that I go get all that meguair's stuff? Should I go ahead an buy that kit also? It seems to have everything I need after I get this problem sorted out.

Lastly and more importantly, should I do what you said to the whole car or just the the affected areas?
First of all I do detailing for a hobby, while not exactly an expert I've been detailing for over 25 years, my own vehicles, family and close friends.
A lot of trial and error over the years let me tell you not to mention the thousands of dollars in products I've tried.

As far as clay barring it can't hurt if done properly.
If you can run your hand across the paint anywhere and feel rough spots or little raised areas at all you will benefit from a clay bar.

Meguiars makes excellent products, so do a lot of other companies, I'm just a big fan of the Meguairs compounds.

Yes, while you have everything out why not do the whole vehicle?
That will ensure the finish is uniform after waxing.

As far as wax and sealants, I'm partial to Mothers Carnuba paste wax (not the liquid).
Sealants I use Klasse AIO (all in one) in between waxes.

Have a look in my gallery if you want to see what my truck looks like fully detailed.
 

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That is the step that I was going to take when I got the kit from amazon. Here's a few questions.

1) Is the Rubbing compound the High abbrasive and the polishing compound the less abrasive?

2) Can I use the orbital buffer with the polishing compound? or should I just use elbow grease?

3) Can I buy a crap load of Microfiber towels and just use that for everything. Target (my work) is having a good sale on them. I think its like 10-12 for like $10.00.

yes, I am in good ol' Gilbert. This why I wasn't really planning on doing this kinda stuff yet since the monsoon will just come and blow it all away lol.
1) I'm not an expert, but from my research it appears to be that way. I always make sure the polishing compound is fine cut.

2) I used good ol' fashion elbow grease last time. Worked great, but my arms were sore for a week and it took me 10 hours over 3 days. I am looking into orbitals for next time. :)

3) I used microfiber for everything.The clay bar step, applying/buffing polishing compound and applying/buffing wax. I bought around 10 and went through almost all of them. You can wash them, but don't use fabric softener.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
First of all I do detailing for a hobby, while not exactly an expert I've been detailing for over 25 years, my own vehicles, family and close friends.
A lot of trial and error over the years let me tell you not to mention the thousands of dollars in products I've tried.

As far as clay barring it can't hurt if done properly.
If you can run your hand across the paint anywhere and feel rough spots or little raised areas at all you will benefit from a clay bar.

Meguiars makes excellent products, so do a lot of other companies, I'm just a big fan of the Meguairs compounds.

Yes, while you have everything out why not do the whole vehicle?
That will ensure the finish is uniform after waxing.

As far as wax and sealants, I'm partial to Mothers Carnuba paste wax (not the liquid).
Sealants I use Klasse AIO (all in one) in between waxes.

Have a look in my gallery if you want to see what my truck looks like fully detailed.
It sounds like I will be following your instructions as well as other here! :)

I was planning on clay barring the truck because there are a lot of rough spots. I'm pretty sure the the old owner used this as a work truck.

I have heard great things about Meguair's so that's why I want to buy that kit from amazon to make sure that it stays nice clean.

I'm glad I can do the whole truck because I had plans to do the whole truck over maybe one or two days closer to fall when its cooler...though I think it be safe to do it now since it cooler.

Will Meguair's wax work well? that's what included in the kit. If you don't mind looking at the kit and seeing if it has most of what I need I'd highly appreciate it (first post).

This may sound stupid, but where is your gallery? I'd love to see it.

1) I'm not an expert, but from my research it appears to be that way. I always make sure the polishing compound is fine cut.

2) I used good ol' fashion elbow grease last time. Worked great, but my arms were sore for a week and it took me 10 hours over 3 days. I am looking into orbitals for next time. :)

3) I used microfiber for everything.The clay bar step, applying/buffing polishing compound and applying/buffing wax. I bought around 10 and went through almost all of them. You can wash them, but don't use fabric softener.
That's what I thought either ways, I'm glad I verified though.

I think I will try to use the orbital, but I'll start on the hood to make sure that my mistakes aren't as evident if I don't do it right.

Looks like I'll be buying some microfibers at Target tomorrow haha.

Guys, thanks so much for all the help!
 

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Will Meguair's wax work well? that's what included in the kit. If you don't mind looking at the kit and seeing if it has most of what I need I'd highly appreciate it (first post).

This may sound stupid, but where is your gallery? I'd love to see it.
My gallery link (as well as anyone else's) is in the top right hand of any post I (they) make, under location, number of post etc..

As far as the kit I think it's over-kill and there are products in there that you wouldn't probably use or need, like the Scratch-X.
If you get a random orbital polisher and some compounds you won't need the Scratch-X.

Also, I never use QDs (quick detailers). To me they aren't a substitute for a good wax, which is the niche they sorta try to fill. Some guys will argue that after waxing a good QD will add more depth/shine.

I almost never use liquid waxes, they do not last as long as paste waxes from my experience.

As far as the PlastX, never used it. Sounds like it's for restoring/maintaining headlights/taillights.
Again something you may or may not need depending on how yours were treated.

I'm not trying to spend your money for you but here's what I have and use for general detailing (I already disclosed my paint correction equipment above).

In no particular order:
1) a good wash mitt (for paint and glass)
2) a second wash mitt, usually a retired paint and glass mitt (rims) I also have a soft flexible brush for the SE-Rs cramped spoke rims
3) a tire scrub brush (mine's curved to contour to the tires)
4) a bigger generic scrub brush (wheel wells, mud guards)
5) big 3-4 gal wash bucket (only used for car washing, nothing else)
6) a good car soap like mentioned above
7) simple green diluted 1/2 and 1/2 with water in a spray bottle (tires, engine bay, wheel wells, mudguards etc.)
8 ) Westley's Bleche-wite (for raised white letter tires)
9) Aerospace 303 protectant (tires, tonneau cover, mudguards, misc moldings, non painted plastics/trim)
10) Claybar and lube
11) A good paste wax
12) wax applicators
13) terrycloth towels and microfiber cloths
14) old used soft tooth brush to get wax out of the nooks and crannys
15) shammy and/or jelly blade

You would poop your pants if you saw all the detailing stuff I have.
It would take me quite a while to show you everything.

First though it sounds like you need your paint restored with some compounds as was mentioned before worrying about detailing.
That Meguairs kit is a detailing kit only from what I see.

Where do you live, anywhere near central Pa?
I'll hook you up if you are close, I work for adult beverages. :)
 

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I agree the kit is overkill with all the detailing products. I wouldn't use half of the stuff included in that kit, but with some experience you will find which products you like and which ones you don't. In the future you might even decide to opt for products from 3M, P21S or Wolfgang like the professionals. (I think Meguiar's is good enough for the average hobbyist though)

Anyhow, if you want to talk to a true professional detailer contact CCTMOBILEDETAIL. He is a member here and has pictures of his clients vehicles. He details $450,000-$1,000,000 cars regularly. It's very impressive. I look at his threads/posts to get advice or info whenever I can.

Good luck!

:)
 

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I agree the kit is overkill with all the detailing products. I wouldn't use half of the stuff included in that kit, but with some experience you will find which products you like and which ones you don't. In the future you might even decide to opt for products from 3M, P21S or Wolfgang like the professionals. (I think Meguiar's is good enough for the average hobbyist though)

Anyhow, if you want to talk to a true professional detailer contact CCTMOBILEDETAIL. He is a member here and has pictures of his clients vehicles. He details $450,000-$1,000,000 cars regularly. It's very impressive. I look at his threads/posts to get advice or info whenever I can.

Good luck!

:)
I think CCT got a permanent vacation from here, I could be wrong.
In any case it was always his way with no open mind to anything different, very opinionated person to be sure.
That is never a good thing in my book.
Not saying he didn't know what he was doing at all, just saying.
If you notice, I never tell anyone this is the only way to do something (like detail vehicles), I share what works for me and let you decide.
Besides, we're not driving $100,000 vehicles here, his stuff was overkill for us, more like for the rich and famous from what I've read.
That being said, he knows his stuff about detailing, but he should it's his profession.
Just my two centavos gents.
 

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I didn't realize that he might have been banned. I didn't really know the guy, but all personal issues aside I think we all could have learned something from him. His knowledge was clearly extensive and abilities way beyond ours. Oh well, that's too bad. If he truley was a jerk it's his own fault for being banned. lol I guess I'll just have to read his old threads and posts to get info in the future. Unless we still have some professional detailers wandering around here somewhere. Eh? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My gallery link (as well as anyone else's) is in the top right hand of any post I (they) make, under location, number of post etc..

As far as the kit I think it's over-kill and there are products in there that you wouldn't probably use or need, like the Scratch-X.
If you get a random orbital polisher and some compounds you won't need the Scratch-X.

Also, I never use QDs (quick detailers). To me they aren't a substitute for a good wax, which is the niche they sorta try to fill. Some guys will argue that after waxing a good QD will add more depth/shine.

I almost never use liquid waxes, they do not last as long as paste waxes from my experience.

As far as the PlastX, never used it. Sounds like it's for restoring/maintaining headlights/taillights.
Again something you may or may not need depending on how yours were treated.

I'm not trying to spend your money for you but here's what I have and use for general detailing (I already disclosed my paint correction equipment above).

In no particular order:
1) a good wash mitt (for paint and glass)
2) a second wash mitt, usually a retired paint and glass mitt (rims) I also have a soft flexible brush for the SE-Rs cramped spoke rims
3) a tire scrub brush (mine's curved to contour to the tires)
4) a bigger generic scrub brush (wheel wells, mud guards)
5) big 3-4 gal wash bucket (only used for car washing, nothing else)
6) a good car soap like mentioned above
7) simple green diluted 1/2 and 1/2 with water in a spray bottle (tires, engine bay, wheel wells, mudguards etc.)
8 ) Westley's Bleche-wite (for raised white letter tires)
9) Aerospace 303 protectant (tires, tonneau cover, mudguards, misc moldings, non painted plastics/trim)
10) Claybar and lube
11) A good paste wax
12) wax applicators
13) terrycloth towels and microfiber cloths
14) old used soft tooth brush to get wax out of the nooks and crannys
15) shammy and/or jelly blade

You would poop your pants if you saw all the detailing stuff I have.
It would take me quite a while to show you everything.

First though it sounds like you need your paint restored with some compounds as was mentioned before worrying about detailing.
That Meguairs kit is a detailing kit only from what I see.

Where do you live, anywhere near central Pa?
I'll hook you up if you are close, I work for adult beverages. :)

I decided to go look for ur gallery in ur profile lol...just couldn't wait for a link. VERY nice truck btw. I want to get a CC Nismo short bed in 3-4 years.

Thanks for the amazing list of stuff. I will work on getting some of that. Speaking of which. AZ seems to be the worst place to buy car cleaning stuff. I went to Target(work), Autozone, and Checkers and no cigar on the compounds you suggested. Online it is... So I saw some things that I wanted and I bought. The most important was some meguair's swirl mark remover. I bought it so I could hopefully remove some of the stuff or get it to a decent stage. Here is what Else I bought.

12- 14x14 Microfiber- $5
1- Gold Class Meguai'rs Cleaner $5
1- Clay Kit $17.xx
1- Swirl Mark Remover $7.5x
1- Mother's Back to Black $7.3x

The clay kit had a sample of wax, quick detailer and a PREMIUM (did i emphasize that enough? they did) micro fiber clothe.

So here is what I did. I would love if you could tell me what I did wrong or right.

Waited for it (car and weather) to cool off.
Rinsed car off.
Washed with Microfiber
Rinsed
Dried with Microfiber
Sprayed QD
Clay Kit
Dried with Microfiber
Applied Swirl Mark remover in horizontal/vertical motions
Wiped off the Swirl Mark remover
Applied Meguair's cleaning wax
Let dry
Removed Wax

Does that sound about right?

I wish I did. I live in AZ and we have not adult beverages...which I assume are beverages with naked women or something lol...bad joke. :-( (I know you meant liquor.)

I am looking for the compounds online as I type. I hope I can find them to be delivered by next week before I go back to college. Any places that you might suggest to look?

I agree the kit is overkill with all the detailing products. I wouldn't use half of the stuff included in that kit, but with some experience you will find which products you like and which ones you don't. In the future you might even decide to opt for products from 3M, P21S or Wolfgang like the professionals. (I think Meguiar's is good enough for the average hobbyist though)

Anyhow, if you want to talk to a true professional detailer contact CCTMOBILEDETAIL. He is a member here and has pictures of his clients vehicles. He details $450,000-$1,000,000 cars regularly. It's very impressive. I look at his threads/posts to get advice or info whenever I can.

Good luck!

:)
I have heard great things about Meguair's so I will try those out for the moment. But as I research more I will try to move on to more pro stuff.

I think CCT got a permanent vacation from here, I could be wrong.
In any case it was always his way with no open mind to anything different, very opinionated person to be sure.
That is never a good thing in my book.
Not saying he didn't know what he was doing at all, just saying.
If you notice, I never tell anyone this is the only way to do something (like detail vehicles), I share what works for me and let you decide.
Besides, we're not driving $100,000 vehicles here, his stuff was overkill for us, more like for the rich and famous from what I've read.
That being said, he knows his stuff about detailing, but he should it's his profession.
Just my two centavos gents.

Frankly, I would never get along with someone that has a set in stone mindset. So I'm glad I didn't go knocking at his door for some info lol.

I didn't realize that he might have been banned. I didn't really know the guy, but all personal issues aside I think we all could have learned something from him. His knowledge was clearly extensive and abilities way beyond ours. Oh well, that's too bad. If he truley was a jerk it's his own fault for being banned. lol I guess I'll just have to read his old threads and posts to get info in the future. Unless we still have some professional detailers wandering around here somewhere. Eh? :)
He seems to have had a lot of insight I could have used...but he was surly banned for a reason lo.
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THANK YOU guys for everything! I am much closer to restoring my truck lol.
 
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