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OK, im posting this to kinda put an end to all the speculation of this combo of shock and spacer or that combo of spring and arm. I will have a full photo expose on this later but you guys can mull over this until then.

-Travel of stock shock/stock uca 5.6” (as it says...stock shock and stop bumps...like it was when you drove it home from the dealer)

-Travel w prg 2” lk 5.5” w/ prg bump stop. (this is with our 2" lift spacer..same thickness/lift as some of our competitors 2.5" we just don’t round up) numbers are with our longer bump stop. As you can see there is 1/10inch loss of travel over stock. With a 3" lift spacer you will loose about 3/4" travel vs stock at the wheel unless you run aftermarket arms)

-Travel w 5100/ or Radflo replacement coilover. 5.8” travel (this is for the bils 5100 or Radflo replacement coilovers and stock bump stop). This is the max travel to be had with NO coilbucket contact. You may get a very slight more travel by shimming but we’ll leave this for another article and the gains are in the 1/8” range.

-PRG uca travel 7.0” total...this should also be the same as the TC arms as both our arms are designed to limit droop to prevent harm to the lower ball joints and/or tie rod ends). with some grinding and the removal of our droop stop spacer (keeping the droop stop) you can get about another .4" droop at the wheel for 7.4" total....but at the risk of binding parts.

-SPC uca travel 7.8” (7.4” usable) w contact and cv bind....these arms were not designed to limit droop or prevent damage to ball joints. So these must be used with the proper combination of parts to keep your truck alive. I don’t have the max SAFE droop numbers as the test truck we used for this had the front driveline removed. I will get numbers soon though. But from the testing we did while designing our arms, the first thing to bind was the lower ball joint, followed by the tierods then CV’s…and that was about ½” past where our droop stop kicks in.

-OEM titan uca contact to full comp 7.9” (YES, the stock titan ucas hit the coil bucket, this is the most travel you can get from a stock set of titan ucas)

- Early PRG titan uca contact to full comp 9.9”, 10.4" with new style UCA (this is metal-to-metal contact....most combination of shocks/spacers/lying/prayers will not yield these travel numbers due to the physical design of a coilover...but here you go) you can either get full compression or full extension with a bolt-in coilover...but not both.

All numbers are w/ factory bump (except where noted) moderately squished. Add little bit more for true compression


I've listed the travel numbers relative to stock below.

Full droop stock 0
Full droop w/ 5100 or F4 +.200"
Full droop w stock f/x uca contact +.600"
Full droop w prg uca +1.8"
Full droop SPC (cv bind) +2.2"
Full droop oem titan uca +2.3"
Full droop u PRG uca +4.3-4.8"

now for the million $$ question "HOW MUCH LIFT CAN I GET AND STILL RIDE WELL/COST LESS THAN $10/WILL MY WIFE ALLOW/ect...?"
well, it all depends on how crappy you like the truck to ride. With the numbers posted above, you can increase the travel and still maintain a factory ride (or better depending on shock/spring combo). So a T/S can theoretically go up about 4.5" (using our arms, NOT stock arms) and still maintain a stock ride.
Now for some reading;
First a lesson in how suspension works, please put on your thinking caps
-as you drive down the road gravity is pulling your vehicle towards Earth...all of the vehicle...tires, motor, you. etc. Gravity has a specific force/speed (acceleration for the nerds) that it operates. When you hit a dip in the road, the suspension will drop into that dip faster than gravity will pull the whole vehicle down....basically the wheel will push against the mass of the vehicle into the depression faster than gravity will pull the WHOLE vehicle down.
So if you drive over a hole that is 3" deep, the tire will drop into that depression faster than gravity will pull the car into the hole, in essence, catching the weight of the vehicle BEFORE gravity pulls it all the way down. This happens because the mass of the "sprung weight-chassis/motor/wife/etc" is far greater than "unsprung-wheel/tire/spindle/brakes/etc. If these were to weigh the same, both the car and the wheels would move the same amount hitting a dip or bump....got it so far? Or, imagine the vehicle standing on the rear bumper, and you squeeze the suspension together and let it spring back....the mass of the vehicle will move less than the suspension....probably loosing most people here. Anyway, back to the lift part. So if you lift a vehicle to the point that there is, say, only 2" of droop/extension at ride height. then you drive over a 4" deep hole...the suspension will drop the 2" and then gravity will take over and the vehicle will drop the add'l 2"....and you will feel this as a crappy ride. You will not only feel the drop into the hole, but now you will feel a much bigger bump exiting the hole. So if you have 6" travel stock and 3" of compression/3" of extension (sometimes called bump and jounce by the silly road racing kooks) and you lift 2" with spring preload (not changing the amount of travel) you will now have 5" compression and 1" of droop.....this my friends will ride like sh*t and now you know why. This is why coilover users can end up with a terrible ride...the spring rate does not magically get stiffer, but the ride sucks with too much preload/lift...why?, because they have adjusted themselves out of droop. Most coilovers have more adjustment than you can use...but people often abuse that; "its got more threads, i guess it can go taller". So the solution to keeping a quality ride and getting lift is increasing travel or at least moving the window in which the suspension functions (why moderate spacer-type leveling kits ride well and still offer lift) And why drop bracket kits lift the chassis but still leave the suspension in stock-like geometry. Also explains why just adding longer coil springs rides terrible. Also, no matter what brand of coilovers, how much you spend, or what the sales-clown is trying to sell you, if you have too little droop your truck will ride like ****.
So the new guys are reading this and asking "why not just run a HUGE/LONG shock?...well, there is only so much space Nissan gave us to work with, but most importantly, there is this funky upper a-arm that always seems to be in the way. Nissan designed the upper arms on these trucks to cross over the TOP of the shock mount (coil bucket). In stock form it's fine, but if you want to run a shock any more than a little bit longer than stock, the stock arm smashes into the top of the mount. This limits movement....back to our original question of lift...you can lengthen the shock all day long, but the upper arm is the next limit and this will prevent further droop/extension JUST LIKE HAVING TOO SHORT OF SHOCK! got it? So you decide you want nifty arms and get a set of the aftermarket ones. Most add up to about 1" more droop....we are NOT talking trophy truck numbers here....it’s a lot of $$ for not a huge amount of gain/droop, but it’s what us maverick Nissan owners must deal with. These will allow the same ride but an inch more lift or a slightly better ride at the same lift.
So now you've perused the internet and a Titan Swap will fulfill all your wildest dreams, and you neighbor has a set of used titan upper arms behind his shed, and ebay has a set of lowers for pennies.....mega-travel is just a CC number and a few OT hours away. Well, the titan arms will hit the bucket too...even though they are 2.5" wider, they still pass over the top of the strut mount....you will get more droop than stock, see numbers above, but it will be hard to align as the stock arms bolt-on but are about 3/8" too short to align properly with the titan lowers with the cam bolts in the middle position. This is how our arms get such good travel numbers...they go AROUND the bucket AND can be adjusted to the correct length for proper alignment.
To summarize the whole debacle, to the get max height (and keep good ride quality), you must run the proper length shock AND an upper arm to get max droop. One will not work without the other. I haven’t touched on running a drop bracket kit which basically just moves everything 4-5” lower and generally keeps the same wheel travel as stock…but everything above applies, even the T/S stuff. Also, notice I have not mentioned CV angles….surprise to the former Toyota guys, the late-model Nissan’s have CV’s have a ton of movement and don’t self-destruct unless doing something absurd.
Finally, you can mix and match any spacer/shock/spring combo you want as long you 1) don’t limit compression travel too much and destroy the shock from it bottoming. 2) don’t sit with the upper a-arm on the coilbucket….remember if it can touch the top of the bucket, it will make noise at full extension no matter how much lift….how often this happens is directly related to ride height. If there is only ½ between the arms and the top of the bucket, it will only take a 1” or so dip to make the arm hit. This will also directly affect ride quality. Although it is possible to run a combination of 5100 and a TJM spring and a spacer…the combo will just ride like crap and cost you more money. 2” lift is the max I we recommend w/ stock upper arms and 3” w/ aftermarket arms or up to about 4-5” with a titan swap and all the fancy parts.
 

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Thanks, Greg! That should help answer lots of people's questions, and coming from a professional, has some merit with it, especially with REAL numbers and an explanation. Hopefully people read this before asking questions that this specifically answer!
 

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Hey Greg,
Is that measuring from the shock mount or from the hub? I know it mentioned one measurement of "wheel" travel but didn't see where you specifically called it out. Just curious.
Thanks for the write-up :goodjob:
 

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-Travel w prg 2” lk 5.5” w/ prg bump stop. (this is with our 2" lift spacer..same thickness/lift as some of our competitors 2.5" we just don’t round up) numbers are with our longer bump stop. As you can see there is 1/10inch loss of travel over stock. With a 3" lift spacer you will loose about 3/4" travel vs stock at the wheel unless you run aftermarket arms)
How much taller is your longer bump stop? What would travel numbers look like for those running spacer lifts from other companies without the longer stops?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How much taller is your longer bump stop? What would travel numbers look like for those running spacer lifts from other companies without the longer stops?
not sure. probably get a bit more travel until the shock crushes. also, i dont have other mfg spacers in stock to check. the point of that particular measurement was just to showcase how much travel is NOT lost running our spacers and bumps. I think we have the numbers somewhere, we took about 50 pictures while measuring just about every combination of parts we could grab. My best guess would be about 1/2" more compression travel until the shock bottomed. Our bumps are roughly 2" tall. You are close enough to us, drive over the hill and we can check it out.
 

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not sure. probably get a bit more travel until the shock crushes. also, i dont have other mfg spacers in stock to check. the point of that particular measurement was just to showcase how much travel is NOT lost running our spacers and bumps. I think we have the numbers somewhere, we took about 50 pictures while measuring just about every combination of parts we could grab. My best guess would be about 1/2" more compression travel until the shock bottomed. Our bumps are roughly 2" tall. You are close enough to us, drive over the hill and we can check it out.
I would gladly make the drive and donate my truck to the cause if I were still running a spacer lift. I was more curious than anything. I am glad to see some actual numbers regarding travel because nearly all of what I see on CF is speculation (including my own posts).
 

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Those look like at the wheel droop numbers to me. I have a SPC upper arm and TJM extended travel coil overs - the shock limits down travel and I have about 1.5" of additional droop over stock (at the wheel).

That doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference. With 2.5" of lift I only lose 1" of down travel compared to stock.

If you are running SPC upper control arms you want to make sure that your shock is limiting down travel to <= 1.8" like the PRG arm does.
 

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Greg, is 10.4" of travel with PRG Titan uppers, stock lowers, and 6" ext resi c/o? If so, I assume, that an int resi shock has less travel, correct?

Also, is it even possible for a 4wd Fronty to use an 8" c/o with PRG Titan uppers, stock lowers, and shock hoops or will there be binding at full droop?

If not, then is the only way to get 8" or even 10" c/o on a Fronty is to go like 6" over stock? Even still, we could probably only achieve 14" in stock mounts and 16" in shock hoops, correct?

Thanks for your time. It's good to get all these questions and answers in one location on this site.


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Those look like at the wheel droop numbers to me. I have a SPC upper arm and TJM extended travel coil overs - the shock limits down travel and I have about 1.5" of additional droop over stock (at the wheel).

That doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference. With 2.5" of lift I only lose 1" of down travel compared to stock.

If you are running SPC upper control arms you want to make sure that your shock is limiting down travel to <= 1.8" like the PRG arm does.
I am looking at runing the SPCs as well because of what i have heard about the PRGs and Salt.

However i thought that if you had the shock limit down travel it would blow out the dampener (shock)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
SD, ill answer in order, and of course, my answers spawn more questions. I apologize up front for forgetting something

1) 6" travel coilovers will just barely get the full travel allotted (as the article states not current bolt-in coilovers will get the max travel as there its just not possible with the shocks/hardware available)...and these will need custom hoops...but here's the issue, 6" or 8" travel coilovers typically will not clear the axles as they come and they are usually too short to make a clean hoop that goes OVER the upper a-arm mounts. A 10" fits better...BUT, most 10" coilovers like to run dual-rate springs as even 18" coils (the longest readily available) are too short. And getting the proper 500-600+lb rate can be difficult with dual rates.
2) All things being equal (except for Bisltein 5150 series shocks) an ext res shock will be shorter for the same travel than in IFP. but, as far as packaging goes to clear the axle shafts on these trucks, an inverted body can have about the same numbers as an upright body shock w/ remote that is the same overall length to mount in the stock loaction.
3) the only way to get any 8" or longer travel coilover would be custom mounts....going wider doesn't change the amount of compression (up travel) as the spindles are so tall they will hit the inner fender. going wider only increases droop....unless you get all custom.
4)Not even close to 14"....even with the current titan mid-travel swaps (5.5" plus per side or more) you will get about 14" with custom shock hoops....typically running 8 or 10" shocks. If you want to get more than these numbers without going WAY wide. Here is my frontier with 20" travel and 82" wide. no comments as its not even close to being drivable


I am looking at runing the SPCs as well because of what i have heard about the PRGs and Salt.

However i thought that if you had the shock limit down travel it would blow out the dampener (shock)
That is how your factory shocks work/are mounted...front and rear. As do most shocks on just about every vehicle made today.
We sell a ton of the the SPC uca's as they are a nice arm and offer plenty of droop, you just want to monitor the combination as to not let the other suspension parts self-destruct.
 

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So if im understanding this correctly the Light Racing UCA are fine as long as you don't use an 8 or 10 inch shock and all other hardware factory, but if you are running say a 6 inch shock or a 2 inch spacer then they are Okay and bottoming out will occur on the shock which it is designed for?
 

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Greg, can you also confirm the shock lengths for the following:

2.0 OEM replacement Radflo?
2.5 Radflo for aftermarket UCAs?
2.5 Radflo for Titan Swap?
2.5 Sway-A-Way ext res for Titan Swap?


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So if im understanding this correctly the Light Racing UCA are fine as long as you don't use an 8 or 10 inch shock and all other hardware factory, but if you are running say a 6 inch shock or a 2 inch spacer then they are Okay and bottoming out will occur on the shock which it is designed for?
Plus I don't think driving down the highway will cause you to have such extended travel that you will damage anything. If you hit the desert then yeah.
Thanks a ton Greg, looks like I am officially sold on the SPC UCA's and maybe 3" spacers in the future. Kind of shying away from coilovers now honestly if you can actually get a decent ride with the stock ones and spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Plus I don't think driving down the highway will cause you to have such extended travel that you will damage anything. If you hit the desert then yeah.
Thanks a ton Greg, looks like I am officially sold on the SPC UCA's and maybe 3" spacers in the future. Kind of shying away from coilovers now honestly if you can actually get a decent ride with the stock ones and spacers.
ANY time you top-out...be it whoops in the desert or a speed bump, the same thing occurs. If the suspension gets over extended, you are hurting things. The SPC arms were designed, like most of their parts for many vehicles, to fix alignment issues on STOCK vehicles. The fact that these arms can get more droop is a bonus but not something to be abused. There is a reason the droop stops were designed into the TC arms as well as the PRG arms...to keep people from destroying their suspension...and this has seemed to work as you don't read about driveline failures on these boards. but i have a feeling we will start hearing more and more about busted lower ball joints/tie rods and cvs as people start stacking spacers and running longer struts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Greg, can you also confirm the shock lengths for the following:

2.0 OEM replacement Radflo?
2.5 Radflo for aftermarket UCAs?
2.5 Radflo for Titan Swap?
2.5 Sway-A-Way ext res for Titan Swap?


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Dont hold me to these as im gonna wing it for now and the numbers will be +/- 1/10". Also note; this is from the upper flange to the center of the lower bolt....NOT the coilover length.

-stock 16.1
-5100/oem Radflo 16.5
-2.0 or 2.5 RF ext 17.2
-rf 2.5 for use on TS w/ ext spr 18.1 or 18.4 depending on spacer/customers needs and/or arms
-SAW t/s 18.4
 

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Great information here Greg. Thank you very much.

Oh, and you were right. My setup was AWESOME in the rocks at Rausch over the weekend. Totally different truck.

Now, can we get a run down on what will work for the rear of these things? I've got a line on a pair of SAW 2.5 Bottom Mount Piggybacks in the 10" travel flavor.
 

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Okay so how do you stop down travel safely with a SPC UCA
 
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I really don't have any idea for Frontiers and that specific setup, but my neighbor used limit straps on his trucks. Might work for the Fronty as well?
 
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