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Fellow Frontier king cab owners:


Before purchasing my 2016 king cab Frontier I read with concern that it is difficult to transport 4’ by 8’ sheet goods in a Frontier. I have devised a simple, inexpensive method to do just that in a bed that is equipped with the Utili Track system..


Procure 2 pallets. Some businesses give them away and some sell them for a nominal charge. Those that are 5.5 inches thick are ideal. Make sure that one of them will fit between your wheel wells.


Slide one of the pallets all the way to the cab.


Now mount one of your Utili Track tie down cleats in each rail in the bottom of the bed far enough behind the first pallet to allow the second pallet to drop down over the cleats. (see photos)


Place the second pallet over the cleats so that you can thread a tie down strap through the cleats and side rails of the second pallet. This strap is to secure your load for safety purposes.


Now all you have to do is load your 4X8 sheets on top of the pallets and strap them down. As you can see in the photos I can leave my toolbox in the truck and still have room for around 3 sheets of ¾” plywood. My toolbox has a quick attach and removal option (see previous post) so I can really stack up the sheets if I need to.


Your pallets don’t necessarily have to be the same thickness. Just place the thinnest one in front.
 

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I cut a 4x4 into three pieces and nailed 2x4's to them, works pretty well.

If I'd have thought that the bed wouldn't fit a standard 4x8 sheet I'd have
never downsized to a Frontier. But I did downsize and have learned to adapt.

4x8 sheet goods are a pretty good part of my life since I have four kids
putting their homes together right now... but I'll get by.
 

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Hi. I was wondering if that great setup you made for carrying 4x8 sheet will work on a crew cab as well as the king. My bed is only 5’

thanks!

Fellow Frontier king cab owners:


Before purchasing my 2016 king cab Frontier I read with concern that it is difficult to transport 4’ by 8’ sheet goods in a Frontier. I have devised a simple, inexpensive method to do just that in a bed that is equipped with the Utili Track system..


Procure 2 pallets. Some businesses give them away and some sell them for a nominal charge. Those that are 5.5 inches thick are ideal. Make sure that one of them will fit between your wheel wells.


Slide one of the pallets all the way to the cab.


Now mount one of your Utili Track tie down cleats in each rail in the bottom of the bed far enough behind the first pallet to allow the second pallet to drop down over the cleats. (see photos)


Place the second pallet over the cleats so that you can thread a tie down strap through the cleats and side rails of the second pallet. This strap is to secure your load for safety purposes.


Now all you have to do is load your 4X8 sheets on top of the pallets and strap them down. As you can see in the photos I can leave my toolbox in the truck and still have room for around 3 sheets of ¾” plywood. My toolbox has a quick attach and removal option (see previous post) so I can really stack up the sheets if I need to.


Your pallets don’t necessarily have to be the same thickness. Just place the thinnest one in front.
 

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Can’t understand why they don’t give us indents level with the wheel wells to put 2x4s on for 4x8 loads. Have had small truck bedliners with them built in, worked great.
 

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No need to add any wood rack. Just slide them in, front rests on bed, rear rests on top of tail gate, drive away.
Ok. Stupid question I know... do you mean just drop tailgate down flat or rest that end on the closed tailgate. I only ask because a buddy told me to do that.
 

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Ok. Stupid question I know... do you mean just drop tailgate down flat or rest that end on the closed tailgate. I only ask because a buddy told me to do that.
On top of tailgate. Ive always carried ratchet straps so when i buy long stuff (even when i had my 6'bed Silverado) just throw a strap over and call it good.
 

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Why not just cut 2x6's to fit the indents in the bed for this very purpose? It makes a platform just above the wheelwhells. IIRC they need cut to 63" or so. 5' bed needs 3, I think the 6' bed needs 4.
 

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Because there's no need to go to all that trouble.If you do that then you have to leave the tailgate open and then worry about your plywood sliding out. If its just resting on top of a closed tailgate it won't go anywhere unless your doing 75 thru some whoops.
 

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Why not just cut 2x6's to fit the indents in the bed for this very purpose? It makes a platform just above the wheelwhells. IIRC they need cut to 63" or so. 5' bed needs 3, I think the 6' bed needs 4.
Hi. Thanks for advice. I’m a strange guy with logistics. I worry about everything. I am nervous drywall will fall out of truck or crack. I did wonder about the 2 x 6 indents in the bed liner.
 

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For drywall I do as bajasam said along with a couple 2x4s under the drywall riding on top of tailgate. Now if you’re going to be hauling a lot of drywall or sheets of plywood you may want to load it a different way but it would hold quite a bit with no problems.
 

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No need to add any wood rack. Just slide them in, front rests on bed, rear rests on top of tail gate, drive away.
I "have" done this, but not with more than 3 or 4 sheets and not real
comfortable with it even then. I've have my tailgate pop open while
driving a few times. So while we're talking about it... has anyone else
had that happen, or is it just me not slamming mine hard enough?
 

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I "have" done this, but not with more than 3 or 4 sheets and not real
comfortable with it even then. I've have my tailgate pop open while
driving a few times. So while we're talking about it... has anyone else
had that happen, or is it just me not slamming mine hard enough?
I’ve had it happen just because I did not shut it hard enough to completely latch all the way. At the time I was not hauling anything just didn’t get latched and fell down going down the road.. now I make sure when I close it that I close it firmly and even double check it.
 

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cheap latches, after closing pull on each side of tailgate, if latch didnt catch good it'll pop open and you can push directly on that sides latch. just part of the deal when you purchase the least expensive truck made.
 

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cheap latches, after closing pull on each side of tailgate, if latch didnt catch good it'll pop open and you can push directly on that sides latch. just part of the deal when you purchase the least expensive truck made.
I know we're getting a little off topic now, but I don't see
where the "least expensive" thing comes from. I shopped at
least dozen mid sized trucks before I chose the Frontier and
it was not by any means the least expensive. I know that both
the Taco and Ranger were less.
Now... cheap latches... that might be.:D
 

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I cut 4-1x6s I pulled from the dumpster to fit the indents in the bed. Works fine, I thought that's what the indents are for.

Tt
 

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My son and I just slid the drywall in with one side on the wheel well and the other on the bed floor with the tailgate down. Then i put a ratchet strap from the tow hitch around and up to the hook in the bed and pulled it snug. No problems and nothing broke or tried to slide out on the highway. Full size 5/8" drywall sheets
 

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MiniD,
Yes, the stock bed has places on the sides for cross boards to sit and clear the wheel humps.

About that liner. I assume you mean a plastic tub that fits the bed. My neighbor has a Ranger that sits outside with a bed liner. The truck looks great but he mentioned there is a large rust hole in the bottom of the bed under the liner. I have heard of this happening to others also.
Tt
 

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Yes I have heard of that too, that’s the first thing I check if a truck has had a liner in it when I’m thinking of purchasing. I purchased mine with it in already or I wouldn’t have one.. it’s had a shell on it since new but as soon as the shell comes off so does the liner. Thanks for that info though, maybe it will help others that read this to understand that water and dust/dirt can stay trapped and hold moisture longer causing rust.
 
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