[Roye53]

Need some advice on transmission maintenance. My 02 has the 3.3 V6 and is 4WD. I was under the impression that since it has 90 000 miles and is 20 years old that I should pull the transmission pan, install a new filter and gasket, and then refill with new fluid. Not doing a flush. I was told just recently at a shop that they didn't recommend this because of various issues. I have actually done a drain and refill which made it shift smoother. The truck has no real problems and I don't want to cause any. Should I change the filter at this point?
Thanks

 

[ssundet]

I would change it

 

[ssundet]

I don't see any reason not to. What was their reasoning?

 

[ssundet]

I have (seldomly) heard some people mention that if you have a vehicle with a ton of miles on a single interval (180k) - never changed fluids, that new fluid can cause the transmission to slip, but I still replaced the fluid. So, as you will sir. I've never had problems replacing with fresh fluids. 90k miles isn't "too far gone" by any means, personally, I'd change it, even if it has been 20 years.

 

[Hawairish]

The transmission filter is little more than a mesh screen to catch larger debris. It's not like an oil or air filter. Changing it is trivial, maybe a little messy, but unless there's a known issue, debris on the drain plug, or an oil pan leak, I'd just stick to a drain and refill.

 

[silverarrow27]

Drain and refill.

 

[Slavic Boer]

Just do a normal service if nothing else is going on with it.

 

[RamTest]

The transmission filter is little more than a mesh screen to catch larger debris. It's not like an oil or air filter.

Every filter is a mesh, the only difference being the size of the mesh. The strainer in your kitchen sink is a filter. Mesh screens in transmissions can still build up varnish and restrict flow.

In this case, if the OP is going to do anything at all, I'd suggest he drain it, drop the pan and clean out the sludge and clean gasket surfaces, change the filter, button it up and refill it.
Few would argue that the worst part of any oil change is dealing with the used oil. If you've got an extra hour, at most, to drop the pan in your driveway, I'd say go for it.

 

[Hawairish]

Every filter is a mesh, the only difference being the size of the mesh. The strainer in your kitchen sink is a filter. Mesh screens in transmissions can still build up varnish and restrict flow.

That’s why I installed a colander instead of an air filter; it’s less restrictive and I don’t eat spaghetti that often.

I was just saying that the trans filter screen is on par with a screen door in a literal sense, not intended to stop finer particulates. If the OP has flies and mosquitoes in his transmission, then he should absolutely change it. At $20 for a filter and gasket and an hour of time, it surely won’t break the bank. But once he sees that his original filter was just fine, he’ll question why he bothered.

I only mention this because at one point I was in the OP’s shoes and opted to change mine at 185K…the filter was as good as new, gasket came off cleanly, no varnish, no sludge, just the sweet aroma of ATF dripping everywhere and the feeling of “what a waste of time.” Oh yeah, and heads up: when you pull the filter, watch out for the hidden volume above the filter (not inside) waiting to pour out everywhere. Nothing that can’t be cleaned up, but I clearly fixed what wasn’t broken. Drain and refill is my vote unless something else physical warrants it.

 

[ssundet]

That’s why I installed a colander instead of an air filter; it’s less restrictive and I don’t eat spaghetti that often.

I was just saying that the trans filter screen is on par with a screen door in a literal sense, not intended to stop finer particulates. If the OP has flies and mosquitoes in his transmission, then he should absolutely change it. At $20 for a filter and gasket and an hour of time, it surely won’t break the bank. But once he sees that his original filter was just fine, he’ll question why he bothered.

I only mention this because at one point I was in the OP’s shoes and opted to change mine at 185K…the filter was as good as new, gasket came off cleanly, no varnish, no sludge, just the sweet aroma of ATF dripping everywhere and the feeling of “what a waste of time.” Oh yeah, and heads up: when you pull the filter, watch out for the hidden volume above the filter (not inside) waiting to pour out everywhere. Nothing that can’t be cleaned up, but I clearly fixed what wasn’t broken. Drain and refill is my vote unless something else physical warrants it.

Let me see if I understand you correctly- you did a 185,000 mile interval on an automatic transmission fluid?

 

[Hawairish]

Let me see if I understand you correctly- you did a 185,000 mile interval on an automatic transmission fluid?

Incorrect. The statement was specifically in regards to changing the filter and installing a new gasket on the pan, not the fluid. I've done two fluid changes and one filter/gasket change on my watch (165K -->195K over 8 years); drain/refill when I got it, then everything at 185K because of the nature of my use (long hauls to/for wheeling, not a daily driver). It's entirely plausible the fitler was serviced previously, but nothing stood out to suggest that.

 

[Hawairish]

Oh yeah, and heads up: when you pull the filter, watch out for the hidden volume above the filter (not inside) waiting to pour out everywhere.

This actually may have been the outcome on a 91 FJ80 that I serviced around the same time as mine. That truck sucked to work on for array of reasons, and surely this was one.

Anyway, do or don't do. The work is trivial. I'd leave it alone, but seems some guys disagree and that's fine.

 

[Nissan4Life]

I'd drain and fill with a pan drop and filter change. I am not sure what kind of filter your truck has, but of the other cars I have worked on most have a media filter for the AT. V8 Explorer, V6 Eurovan, V6 Rav4. The only car that had a screen filter was a i4 rav4. They did make a media filter for the i4 rav, that I used for 60k before going back to the screen.

The pan will also have a bunch of sludge on the bottom which I like to clean. Many pans also have a magnet on the bottom which I clean. If enough deposits collect on the magnets a chunk can break free and clog a passage.

 

[RamTest]

Here's a good DIY for those who want some guidance to drop the pan.

DIY: 2005+ Transmission Pan Removal and Installation

I just removed and installed a new transmission oil pan on my 2005 Nismo 4.0L. I only changed out the pan because I only had about 2 hours to do this entire install (didn't have time to clean out the pan and scrap off the old gasket). You don't have to replace the trans pan, just give yourself...

www.clubfrontier.org

 

[Here2Learn]

Are you the original owner? If so, I would just drain and fill. After a few hundred miles, I would drain and fill again.

On mine, it had issues when I got it. I drained my old fluid into a very clean drain pan and poured it into a sealed container in case the new fluid caused an issue. My thought was to put the old fluid back in.

Seeing the old screen (it was not a filter on mine) and cleaning out the inside of the pan gave me some piece of mind.

 

[Xtre]

you will know sooner than later when you can expect to be stranded by the tranny, not that something else will probably pop up before that to strand you, but generally a good idea to "poor mans tranny flush" replace all the fluid every 30k