Nissan Frontier Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For auto trans and drain and fill (4.0 motor) you drain out the fluid hot (expanded somewhat), so if you put back in the same amount you drained out shouldn’t it be a little less cause cold fluid is going back in? Or is the amount of expansion negligible? Seems easier to put the same amount you put in. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
611 Posts
I always put back what drained out and it was the same level on the dipstick. Drained warmed up also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I always put back what drained out and it was the same level on the dipstick. Drained warmed up also.
Thanks, only 16k miles on the truck but plan on drain and fills for trans and rear diff at 20k. Then probably every 30k after that. Front diff and transfer case at 50k or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
611 Posts
Do you tow? I did my first at 60K (rear diff also) and will do every 30 here on out. To my surprise fluids were pretty clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Do you tow? I did my first at 60K (rear diff also) and will do every 30 here on out. To my surprise fluids were pretty clean.
No but bought the truck used and it has done some towing (no idea how much weight) so I figured I’d do it early on. A drain and fill in my 16’ odyssey van at 35k really smoothed out the shifts (For Hondas it’s drain and fill only no flush/ fluid exchange)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
You sound like me. An over thinker. I get it though. I did this a couple months ago. I just replaced to the best I could, the same amount that came out (ground where I was reading the bucket from was uneven - but again, did the best I could). When I checked it after driving for about 20 mins, the level was perfect on the dipstick. The point is you should be checking the fluid after you do this anyways, so just check it even if you think you replaced the perfect amount. And then you don’t have to worry too much about things like this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
You sound like me. An over thinker. I get it though. I did this a couple months ago. I just replaced to the best I could, the same amount that came out (ground where I was reading the bucket from was uneven - but again, did the best I could). When I checked it after driving for about 20 mins, the level was perfect on the dipstick. The point is you should be checking the fluid after you do this anyways, so just check it even if you think you replaced the perfect amount. And then you don’t have to worry too much about things like this.
Thanks for the info . I want this truck to last me 20 years , not gonna pay 45k for a mid size truck ( the Tacoma Trd pro truck is nice but it’s 50k at my local dealer, before tax an other fees) . I’m sure the 2021 frontier will be at least 35k
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Thanks, only 16k miles on the truck but plan on drain and fills for trans and rear diff at 20k. Then probably every 30k after that. Front diff and transfer case at 50k or so.
When I did my front diff I was very surprised to find it considerably worse than the rear. This was at only 40000km. So don't put the front off till later thinking it will be in better condition. Wasn't in my case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,402 Posts
When I did my front diff I was very surprised to find it considerably worse than the rear. This was at only 40000km. So don't put the front off till later thinking it will be in better condition. Wasn't in my case.
JRussel, I agree, however in my case it was the transfer case that had a very light sheen of "somethings" swimming in it. I put Motul full synth in all of them and have never worried about it. If its good enough for the top auto & motorcycle racing teams in Europe, its good enough for me. Motul isn't known much here in the States, but if you're into bikes, the cafe racers use it in their Japanese bikes and Ducatti's.
I did all mine at 69k according to my records. The CarFax showed the original owner had them serviced as well, but I don't know what they put back in, so I did it again and now I have peace of mind ( relatively at least LOL ). I'll probaby put mine on a 50k service interval for the big three.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,925 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Motul isn't known much here in the States, but if you're into bikes, the cafe racers use it in their Japanese bikes and Ducatti's.
Lol....not sure about that, I'm into bikes and use Walmart Supertech syn in my 1L Ninja, would never even consider wasting cash on designer oil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,382 Posts
Is racing oil designed for long term service intervals?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,402 Posts
Shift, what I got isn't racing oil as such, no, pure racing oil has little or no detergents cause it never stays in very long. This is a very high grade European lubricant made for demanding applications. It meets or exceeds all the US standards.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,382 Posts
Psyche! Sorry, Ryan...I was in a mood and just shot that dumb comment of mine out there. 😇
Fwiw, I do believe there are better, higher-tier oils/fluids out there...and whether they are labeled designer or boutique...they might very well offer a finer additive package. Where I diverge is when uber~extended intervals are advertised. It just makes more sense to keep these changed on a regular basis than to run the risk of damaging seals - that are ridiculously expensive to replace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Try checking out Bob is the Oil Guy, All the technical data one can digest in a lifetime. All oils in the world are graded the same way and placed in one of four categories, anything else is just a marketing strategy to hook the unknowing.All oils will have a rating stamped on container, current top tier is "SN". doesn't matter if its from walmart or french wine country its just oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
611 Posts
Yes 2 is the drain. 1 is a lever for the shift linkage.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top