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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all (long time lurker, first time poster, this community is awesome) welcome to my doozy...

I bought my Carfax clear, 38k miles, 2017 Pro4X at the end of February this year. I found out she had some issues, but having bought the third party warranty, I took it to the dealer a few times to fix a few bits - ABS control unit (code C1110 and C1143), A/F sensor (code P0174) and an intermittent VDC Slip interference when driving low speed, in the dry, with steering input (mainly right hand corners). The latter issue is my current concern.

I spotted my bumper cover is grey, the inside of the drivers side fender is unpainted with a screw missing. This indicates she’s had a small impact and been fixed by the previous owner without reporting it. The ABS unit which was replaced is also on the drivers side of the engine bay, coincidentally.

I noticed that the drivers side rear wheel speed sensor has a brown/red colour at the plug, unlike the other three sensors. There is no visible damage to any wss around the vehicle. Dealership checks show no stored codes even after the issue was repeated when I took it home after the first visit. It’s as though there is no error in the parts or the system, it’s just really sensitive to certain situations. The problem remains.

These situations are sporadic at best though repeatable once it’s first occurred. Doing 70mph on a freeway through the TN hills, right hand corner, Slip kicks in and slows me to 63 before disengaging. 40mph on a right hand corner, no potential for loss of traction, Slip engages. Off ramp on the freeway, on the brakes, 35mph and Slip engages to 25ish. Here’s the kicker - 20mph on ramp, slight corner to the right, Slip engages and stops me accelerating until the wheels are straight.

It does sometimes happen on a left corner, but so much more on the right.

Does anyone have any experience of such a sensitive lil’ gal, so should I start throwing some OEM parts at it, starting at the rear drivers wss?
The service guy couldn’t replicate the issue and I presume he didn’t test the wss resistance. I wish I could monitor what sensor is instigating the Slip light/action.

I’ve trawled around and can’t seem to find any threads on issues which match mine, apologies if I’ve missed anything obvious.
Any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading this.
 

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Copied this from Autoblog,
Today's steering angle sensors are attached to multiple points within the steering system. Since a front end alignment is designed to align the front wheels along with the steering wheel, it can cause problems with the steering angle sensor. It's very common for many mechanic shops to forget to reset or realign the steering angle sensor after they've completed their service. This can cause the symptoms above to occur, such as lighting the Traction Control Light, Check Engine Light, or impacting the drivability of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies! I had the steering angle sensor reset along with my alignment at Firestone about 600 miles ago, and I made a point about saying I needed the SAS resetting having done research on this issue.
With that said, I think having the dealership do it will be a path to head down. I’ll keep you all posted. Thanks again
 

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Thanks for the replies! I had the steering angle sensor reset along with my alignment at Firestone about 600 miles ago, and I made a point about saying I needed the SAS resetting having done research on this issue.
With that said, I think having the dealership do it will be a path to head down. I’ll keep you all posted. Thanks again
This is something I would trust the dealer with more than a local firestone. When I had mine done, I had the truck at the dealer for something else and when they scanned the truck the found it was out of adjustment. I'm under the impression that a Bluetooth scanner you or I may have or a standard scanner a technician would have may miss this or not be able to do it as well as the Nissan consult the dealer has.
 

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I bought my Carfax clear, 38k miles, 2017 Pro4X at the end of February this year.....

I spotted my bumper cover is grey, the inside of the drivers side fender is unpainted with a screw missing. This indicates she’s had a small impact and been fixed by the previous owner without reporting it. The ABS unit which was replaced is also on the drivers side of the engine bay, coincidentally.
This raises some red flags for me, and warrants checking for structural damage that could be creating enough misalignment that is triggering TCS. It sounds like the fender and bumper have been replaced, and that could indicate a more severe collision.

Look carefully at the aprons (the structure that welds to the firewall and extends to the core support - see diagram), core support, and frame rails for any signs of repair or replacement. Good indicators are welds and seam sealer that aren't consistent with factory work (compare to the other side or another truck), heat marks, tool/clamp marks (will look like it has been clamped in a small vise).

If the hit was significant enough to cause damage to the frame, there may be some twist or offset that is fooling the TCS and making it come on when it shouldn't. Hopefully that isn't the case, but it might be worth a trip to a shop capable of doing a frame measurement.

As far as Carfax, AutoCheck, etc., I have zero faith in them since they rely on repair shops and other sources to report the information to them. If a vehicle is fixed by the owner or one of thousands of small, independent body shops it is highly likely that an incident won't show up. Same thing goes for insurance companies and law enforcement reporting - there are too many ways for that info to never be sent and not show up on the history report. About the only thing I consider useful for Carfax/AutoCheck is the owner history, and I look to see if the mileage progression is consistent.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that having the dealer reset the steering angle takes care of it!

Edited to add diagram.
320220
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I had the same thoughts as you and checked most things you mentioned, though with your diagram, I just looked in depth at a few more places than previously. I can’t see any obvious structural damage or signs of repair welding. There are no creases on the frame, running my finger along obvious stress points offers no burrs or ribbing conducive to a bend or break. There are no pinched or perished hoses, no kinked lines or paint mismatches which would be obvious to the untrained eye. I am hoping this issue is more one of a miscalibration by the cheap *** previous owner (carfax listed one previous owner only). I can’t see anything which makes me ****... yet.

I think if the steering sensor recalibration doesn’t handle the issue, I’ll look at replacing that rear drivers wheel speed sensor since it has the red connector clip. That’s clearly aftermarket and I’m thinking that the electrical resistance of that part might not meet the VDC expectation. After that, who knows.... likely a trip to an engineer like you say.

Thanks for your hopes of an easy fix, they mirror mine! And thanks for your guidance and the image, it’s really useful
 

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I can’t see any obvious structural damage or signs of repair welding. There are no creases on the frame, running my finger along obvious stress points offers no burrs or ribbing conducive to a bend or break. There are no pinched or perished hoses, no kinked lines or paint mismatches which would be obvious to the untrained eye. I am hoping this issue is more one of a miscalibration by the cheap * previous owner (carfax listed one previous owner only). I can’t see anything which makes me **... yet.

I think if the steering sensor recalibration doesn’t handle the issue, I’ll look at replacing that rear drivers wheel speed sensor since it has the red connector clip. That’s clearly aftermarket and I’m thinking that the electrical resistance of that part might not meet the VDC expectation. After that, who knows.... likely a trip to an engineer like you say.

Thanks for your hopes of an easy fix, they mirror mine! And thanks for your guidance and the image, it’s really useful
Glad things look okay - I always cringe when I see/hear of panels being replaced since it usually means a significant hit. It doesn't always mean there is structural damage (I had the driver's fender and both doors on my Elantra replaced after some idiot drug a trailer down the side and took off), but it is definitely an indication to look further. Having dealt with some pretty shady dealers - both new car stores and used car lots - I know some go to great lengths to conceal this kind of thing.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I just got back from having the steering angle sensor reset and it appears not to have affected the issue. So back to the drawing board.
Here’s what I’m thinking is my path next in stages with testing in between...

  • Remove/Clean/Refit all wheel speed sensors, checking for cracks, breaks or potential shorts (I’d love to electrical test all the sensors but I haven’t found the method to do so yet). Especially the drivers side rear since it has the red connector block, I’ll be checking it is indeed the right part or if the previous owner has wanged in some cheapo part which is not right. I have a suspicion this is a literal red flag and will be my issue, fingers crossed.
  • Visual inspection of the steering angle sensor (if possible) to check it’s mounted correctly or if there are any visual issues
  • Visual inspection of the yaw sensor in the console, for the same as above
  • Chassis shop to check the frame for correctness
Any advice anyone can give on my thinking above or if anyone has knowledge of the way to check the sensors, would be worth it’s weight in gold.

On another note, $154.00 to reset the sensor, including $15.00 in shop materials... I can only imagine that charge is for the gloves and face mask the tech wore
 
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