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Discussion Starter #1
what's up everyone new to the group. I drive a 2012 Nissan frontier SV 4x4. Recently acquired a 12x7x6.5 dual axle enclosed trailer. Should I do anything to my truck for towing capabilities?
 

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What does the trailer weigh? What will be the total weight when loaded?

You’ll want to adjust tire pressures when towing. Sticker says 35psi but my tires are rated up to 44 psi. I add pressure based on load, measure top of rim to ground. Make it 1/2” higher than the front measurement when loaded.

Other than that. Trailer brake controller?


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Discussion Starter #3
What does the trailer weigh? What will be the total weight when loaded?

You’ll want to adjust tire pressures when towing. Sticker says 35psi but my tires are rated up to 44 psi. I add pressure based on load, measure top of rim to ground. Make it 1/2” higher than the front measurement when loaded.

Other than that. Trailer brake controller?


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I'm not totally sure on the trailer weight I'd have to go look. I estimate I'll be running around 3500-5000lb tops. The trailers rated to pull 10,000 lbs but it seems like the trucks are only rated to pull around 6000lb. I don't remember. I need to do some more research and calculate The weight of my tools that I will be keeping in the trailer on a daily basis. I also live on a small mountain (signal mountain,TN) I was worried about coming up and down it everyday and the stress that's going to put on the truck.
 

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Yeah, pulling up long grades with a heavy trailer will mean turning off overdrive and shifting manually. You’ll want to keep the trans from hunting back and forth between gears. Better to grab third (or even second) and haul at 4500-5500 RPM than keep shifting up and down trying to hold the climb.

Definitely a trailer brake controller.

Oh, you may want to consider an add a leaf in the rear, I swapped my load spring for an add a leaf and it improved the way the truck sits with some weight in the bed or on the tongue.


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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, pulling up long grades with a heavy trailer will mean turning off overdrive and shifting manually. You’ll want to keep the trans from hunting back and forth between gears. Better to grab third (or even second) and haul at 4500-5500 RPM than keep shifting up and down trying to hold the climb.

Definitely a trailer brake controller.

Oh, you may want to consider an add a leaf in the rear, I swapped my load spring for an add a leaf and it improved the way the truck sits with some weight in the bed or on the tongue.


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should I take it to a place like truck and trailers USA and just have them do the work? What do you think about transmission coolers? Someone told me I should add a secondary transmission cooler?
 

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should I take it to a place like truck and trailers USA and just have them do the work? What do you think about transmission coolers? Someone told me I should add a secondary transmission cooler?
Yeah, I have a pro-4x which came with a better trans cooler and the temp gauge on the dash is actually a trans temp gauge. If you plan to do a hell of a lot of hauling, a secondary trans cooler and temp gauge is not a bad idea. On my last rig I installed a B&M trans cooler with a 10” Spal electric fan, along with an autometer temp gauge. I definitely used the fan a lot, the temp gauge and cooler/fan setup kept me from roasting my trans, no doubt about it.

I wouldn’t personally pay someone to do it, because it’s all easy stuff I can do myself. Up to you if you want to lay someone. I got my add a leaf kit from Greg at PRG. Took me a couple hours to install, pretty easy stuff. I put a set of Bilstein 5100s on there while I was at it, and did the front as well. Greg is a good guy and will happily set you up with the parts you need.

If you aren’t comfortable with installing this stuff, at least get the parts yourself so you know you have the right stuff, and pay someone to install them.

Check your factory leafs. I’d bet they are already doing the “W.”

If your truck has the factory hitch, you should have a pigtail under the dash to plug a brake controller right in. I’m assuming your trailer has electric brakes?


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The truck has a trans cooler from factory.
The only thing I'd add for powertrain towing is an oversized trans pan. PML has a solid unit. Cast aluminum, finned. Holds xtra qt of fluid and will keep temps down better if you don't have trans armor plate. Mine has served well for 3 yrs. Only time it gets warm is wheeling.
Could also swap in a 350Z thermostat for 10deg cooler temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
should I take it to a place like truck and trailers USA and just have them do the work? What do you think about transmission coolers? Someone told me I should add a secondary transmission cooler?
should I take it to a place like truck and trailers USA and just have them do the work? What do you think about transmission coolers? Someone told me I should add a secondary transmission cooler?
Yeah, I have a pro-4x which came with a better trans cooler and the temp gauge on the dash is actually a trans temp gauge. If you plan to do a hell of a lot of hauling, a secondary trans cooler and temp gauge is not a bad idea. On my last rig I installed a B&M trans cooler with a 10” Spal electric fan, along with an autometer temp gauge. I definitely used the fan a lot, the temp gauge and cooler/fan setup kept me from roasting my trans, no doubt about it.

I wouldn’t personally pay someone to do it, because it’s all easy stuff I can do myself. Up to you if you want to lay someone. I got my add a leaf kit from Greg at PRG. Took me a couple hours to install, pretty easy stuff. I put a set of Bilstein 5100s on there while I was at it, and did the front as well. Greg is a good guy and will happily set you up with the parts you need.

If you aren’t comfortable with installing this stuff, at least get the parts yourself so you know you have the right stuff, and pay someone to install them.

Check your factory leafs. I’d bet they are already doing the “W.”

If your truck has the factory hitch, you should have a pigtail under the dash to plug a brake controller right in. I’m assuming your trailer has electric brakes?


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Pretty much all trucks have trans coolers for the factory. It’s a small cooler built into the bottom of the radiator. Sometimes it’s enough, sometimes it isn’t. The only way to know if you need to upgrade is by installing a gauge. I’d start there as far as the cooling system is concerned.


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Discussion Starter #10
I added the tow hitch and the wiring under the dash I don't think it has a place for trailer brakes I was thinking about doing some sort of lift kit setup for over landing purposes The reason I bought the trailer was to get all my tools and equipment out of my truck bed. Loading and unloading every weekend when you want to go do something gets exhausting. I've looked at the Bilstein 5100s not something I can really afford to do all the way around right now my main focus is getting it capable to tow. I've looked at the PRG stuff I'd like to put spacers on the front to make it the same as the back but if I add a leaf won't that make it taller and out of level again? Maybe I should just do basic lift leveling kit all at once? I took auto mechanics in technical school back in the day and have always worked on my own cars but lately I just haven't really been in the mood I'm also extremely busy with a construction business that I just started two years ago. Plus I have a 4-year-old and a 2-year-old and I never have time to do anything after work.
 

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This is why I went up a truck size To a full size, you don’t want to approach the trucks maximum and strain it all, you are always safer at 2/3 of the trucks rating. You all leave out the trucks total frontal area, it’s usually listed in the manual as it’s like a moving wall against the wind.
Are you running load range E tires?
You don’t want to kill the truck but this may be too large of a trailer going up grades on a regular basis.
They are wonderful trucks but everything has its limitations.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have thought about buying a cheap truck just for work because this trailer might be too large for my truck. I will only be keeping it about half the weight of what factory recommends I tow.
 

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The nice thing about the add a leafs is that the rear will handle loads better with less sag, which is ideal for towing. If you’re setting up for over landing, you’ll want to lift it a little anyway, no? When you’re over landing, I’d imagine you’d have some weight in the back as well.

My pro-4x sits level after lifting the front about an inch with 5100s and installing the aal, but I have a rack so there’s always weight on the truck.

If you installed the wiring for the factory hitch, there should be a pigtail for brake controller. If you’re towing more than 3k pounds I think brakes are mandatory. You’ll definitely want a brake controller.


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The nice thing about the add a leafs is that the rear will handle loads better with less sag, which is ideal for towing. If you’re setting up for over landing, you’ll want to lift it a little anyway, no? When you’re over landing, I’d imagine you’d have some weight in the back as well.

My pro-4x sits level after lifting the front about an inch with 5100s and installing the aal, but I have a rack so there’s always weight on the truck.

If you installed the wiring for the factory hitch, there should be a pigtail for brake controller. If you’re towing more than 3k pounds I think brakes are mandatory. You’ll definitely want a brake controller.


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Yes the trailer has brakes I had a 4 pin so I just bought a 4 pin to a 7 prong adapter to get the trailer home. I don't know if that made the trailer brakes work or if it only ran the lights? I'm going to take it to truck and trailer on Monday and get prices on those parts that I need and I'll probably call PRG and talk to them about getting set up I don't want to lift it very high. I do carry some things when I go over landing but I don't have a rack and a tent we usually do hammock camping. I have a cheap Amazon ladder rack on my truck I might put awning on it but I think that's about it. Maybe something to hold the spare tire in the back of the truck. I was also thinking about putting a deck system in it.
 

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Hooking up the trailer to power doesn’t make the brakes work. Unless it has surge brakes, you’ll need a trailer brake controller. That’s the only way the brakes will work.


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Are you running load range E tires?
Clint
I still don’t understand why people keep saying this.

You don’t need load range E tires. My P-metric 265/75-16 all-terrains are good for 5000lb over the rear axle, and 10k pounds overall which is WAY more than you should ever have over your rear axle, or on the truck as a whole, even if you’re over the max tongue weight, payload, and trailer capacity.

LT tires are heavy, create more heat, and require higher PSI causing a harsh ride. Not recommended.


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12' enclosed trailer is a pretty common size. Usually rated for 6000-7000 pounds. Usually tip the scales at 2000-2500 empty. Being you found one rated at 10k, it will be on the heavier side of that. No telling if you will haul feather pillows or lead ingots. Add up the weight of your cargo and figure what the trailer weight will be. Generally speaking, this is a good size trailer for a Frontier.

The Frontier already has 2 well engineered transmission coolers. Generally the only time you have trouble with the cooling is when someone tries to out engineer the factory engineers. You are not that good. They are SAE rated for the published tow capacity. One of the tests is a 12 mile hill climb up a 7% grade at highway speeds in 100°+ Arizona heat. The factory cooling system works just fine.

That size trailer can be either hydraulic surge brakes or electric brakes. The surge brakes work with a master cylinder on the trailer hitch. As you brake the truck, the trailer pushes forward on the hitch ball. This pushing action pushes the master cylinder for the trailer applying the brakes. It is what you typically find on a rental trailer as it is all automatic and needs no hardware in the truck. The electric brakes needs a brake controller installed (it is pre-wired, just plug it in). It changes the voltage to the trailer brakes to adjust how much trailer brake to apply. You have to dial it up and down depending on the trailer and the load.

For that size trailer, it should be fine. Just don't know if you are going to pack it with too much stuff and overload it.

As for the powertrain, the same 4.0 and automatic is used in the full sized NV vans. Last I checked it was still the standard engine in the ¾-ton cargo version and in the 1-ton passenger version.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
12' enclosed trailer is a pretty common size. Usually rated for 6000-7000 pounds. Usually tip the scales at 2000-2500 empty. Being you found one rated at 10k, it will be on the heavier side of that. No telling if you will haul feather pillows or lead ingots. Add up the weight of your cargo and figure what the trailer weight will be. Generally speaking, this is a good size trailer for a Frontier.

The Frontier already has 2 well engineered transmission coolers. Generally the only time you have trouble with the cooling is when someone tries to out engineer the factory engineers. You are not that good. They are SAE rated for the published tow capacity. One of the tests is a 12 mile hill climb up a 7% grade at highway speeds in 100°+ Arizona heat. The factory cooling system works just fine.

That size trailer can be either hydraulic surge brakes or electric brakes. The surge brakes work with a master cylinder on the trailer hitch. As you brake the truck, the trailer pushes forward on the hitch ball. This pushing action pushes the master cylinder for the trailer applying the brakes. It is what you typically find on a rental trailer as it is all automatic and needs no hardware in the truck. The electric brakes needs a brake controller installed (it is pre-wired, just plug it in). It changes the voltage to the trailer brakes to adjust how much trailer brake to apply. You have to dial it up and down depending on the trailer and the load.

For that size trailer, it should be fine. Just don't know if you are going to pack it with too much stuff and overload it.

As for the powertrain, the same 4.0 and automatic is used in the full sized NV vans. Last I checked it was still the standard engine in the ¾-ton cargo version and in the 1-ton passenger version.
I installed the brake controller. The trailer has electric brakes. The trailer's actually rated @7000 lb it weighs about 1750 I think all in all I'm towing around 4,000 lb with it loaded on a daily basis. I did not know that the frontier had two factory trans coolers. My truck is running brand new Cooper discoverer at3s and I believe they're a lt tire. next upgrade is either going to be a lift kit with new rear leaf springs or just new rear leaf springs for now . they are worn out.
 

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Yeah, I have a pro-4x which came with a better trans cooler and the temp gauge on the dash is actually a trans temp gauge. If you plan to do a hell of a lot of hauling, a secondary trans cooler and temp gauge is not a bad idea. On my last rig I installed a B&M trans cooler with a 10” Spal electric fan, along with an autometer temp gauge. I definitely used the fan a lot, the temp gauge and cooler/fan setup kept me from roasting my trans, no doubt about it.

I wouldn’t personally pay someone to do it, because it’s all easy stuff I can do myself. Up to you if you want to lay someone. I got my add a leaf kit from Greg at PRG. Took me a couple hours to install, pretty easy stuff. I put a set of Bilstein 5100s on there while I was at it, and did the front as well. Greg is a good guy and will happily set you up with the parts you need.

If you aren’t comfortable with installing this stuff, at least get the parts yourself so you know you have the right stuff, and pay someone to install them.

Check your factory leafs. I’d bet they are already doing the “W.”

If your truck has the factory hitch, you should have a pigtail under the dash to plug a brake controller right in. I’m assuming your trailer has electric brakes?


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Your Pro 4X has a Tans Temp Guage? Am I missing something here? Or did your truck have it installed aftermarket?
 

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Your Pro 4X has a Tans Temp Guage? Am I missing something here? Or did your truck have it installed aftermarket?
I just found out the coolant temp gauge has a confusing label, it says AT oil temp. Apparently there’s an idiot light, and the gauge is actually coolant temp, but it’s not a legit gauge, it’s an idiot needle with three positions:

Cold, warm, and way too hot.


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