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I've noticed a few threads asking about factory wiring a 7-pin connector, and those who had problems once an aftermarket plug was installed. Complaints vary from no turn signals, no brake lights, or no parking lamps on the trailer. Below is a list of the parts needed to enable the 7-pin connector outputs.

Parts guy at my local nissan dealer said he can order any part out of the tow package installation kit. Relay/y-jumper harness/even just the exterior plug.

The factory trailer wiring KIT P/N is : 999T8-BR020 and is about 70$ through Amazon *This is really the cheapest route*

OR - If you already have an aftermarket 7-pin, you CAN just install the Y-harness and relays, and splice-wire it in. Call a Nissan dealership parts department and ask them for the following parts..

1- 999T8 BR300 Y-Jumper harness
1- 25230 7996A Brown 2 pole relay
1- 25230 79917 Blue 1 pole relay (Order 2 if you have a manual trans)

These go in the passenger kick panel. There's a Dead-headed 12 pin male connector, that attaches to the 12 pin female on the y-jumper harness. The brown relay goes on the brown connector on the jumper harness, and the blue relay(s) go on the white connectors. One if you have an auto, and both if you have manual. If you have an auto trans, the blue relay goes on the connector with the Green/red-black/pink/black wires. If you have a manual, both white connectors should have a relay on them. Again, if my parts guy can get just one part out of the tow package kit, yours should be able to as well...

Below are pictures to show the location of the harness:

These are below the dash... Where the passengers feet would be, on the right side of the cab. You have to pull up the door threshold, then remove the little black screw head retainer, and then the kick-plate pulls off in a direction toward the drivers side. (Straight away, NOT toward the rear of the truck)





Unscrew this, its very fine thread, just keep turning and it will come off.



Then pull the kick plate straight out towards the drivers side. Below is the back side of kick panel, so you see where the clips are that hold it on. One at the top left of pic, and one at lower left. If it's only been removed once or twice, it can be a pain to un-clip, but it will come loose!



Here is what's behind the kick panel, notice in the center left of the picture some gray foam insulation, this is the connection between the y-harness and the factory power harness.



Here's what the relays look like.




Hope you can view the images... I did this rather quickly from my phone =/
 

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I'm not familiar with the 1st gen, but this write-up is on the 2nd gen, and it is spot on. I followed it, and installing mine was a breeze.
Thanks for the write-up SouthGA.
 

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I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier SE. It does not have the factory tow package for the 7 pin connector. I need a 7 pin connector to control the electric brakes on a camper we are about to purchase.

If you do not have the tow package from the factory, will this harness solve my problem?

I have the hook up for a 4 pin flat connector but our local trailer store is telling me that this will absolutely not work for connect the 7 pin.

I am getting a ton of conflicting answers to this issue.

ANy info would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier SE. It does not have the factory tow package for the 7 pin connector. I need a 7 pin connector to control the electric brakes on a camper we are about to purchase.

If you do not have the tow package from the factory, will this harness solve my problem?

I have the hook up for a 4 pin flat connector but our local trailer store is telling me that this will absolutely not work for connect the 7 pin.

I am getting a ton of conflicting answers to this issue.

ANy info would be appreciated.

Thanks
So you have a Frontier with zero trailer wiring at the moment, correct?
You will need the 7-pin plug for the back in order to plug in a trailer with electric brakes. The 4-pin will NOT work, has no connection for the brakes
You will need the trailer brake wiring kit you mention, that is only for the brake controller to the dash.
You will still need the relays in the kick panel for the rest of the 7-pin wires to work.

So to tow a trailer with electric brakes you need to address all 3 areas-
7-pin plug in the back
Relays in the kick panel
Brake controller wiring under the dash

The 4-pin plug is not what you want. But if you are going to tow a trailer that has only 4-pin plug (something without electric brakes) just get a 7 to 4 adaptor that plugs into the 7-pin plug that you will be putting in.
 

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My 05 only had the 4 flat connector. I bought the complete kit that SouthGA mentioned above, and installed it. The 7 pin plug had 2 quick connects on it. One plugged into where the 4 flat plug went to, and the other plugged into another connector right beside the other up on the frame. It had a dummy plug capping it, just remove the dummy cap, and plug the other in. You need to slide up under your truck with a flash light and check if you have these 2 plugs. They will be on the frame, near the back, on the driver's side. If you have these 2 plugs, then this kit (comes with the relays and everything needed except for the electric controller) will fix you up.
 

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Maybe (probably) I'm just dense but I'm still not sure exactly what I need. I have a 2007 Frontier 4x4 SE with the factory 4-pin connector. I wish to change to a 7-pin connector. Are new relays needed or just the 7-pin harness? No doubt this has been answered before but darned if I can find it or I really am just dense!
 

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I am going to chime in here and emphatically agree with the original poster that the factory wiring kit is absolutely the easiest and best way to add trailer wiring. I did this on my Xterra and it was a cake walk (these Fronty instructions are basically identical). For $70 and a half hour of work (most of which is simply opening and closing the access panel) it's an absolute no-brainer.

The X forums were all full of talk about how to do it without the factory kit, where to find relays for it, how and where to tap in to the wiring, etc... Those people were spending close to the same amount of money, working a LOT harder at it, and getting a significantly inferior result.

If you are on the fence about this, just buy the factory kit and do it. Afterward you'll wonder why you even thought about doing it any other way. I promise.

FOR THOSE WHO NEED A 4-PIN CONNECTION, I highly recommend putting in the 7-pin factory kit and using a 7-to-4-way adaptor plug for your trailer. They're available from etrailer and elsewhere for about $10. You can get a 7-to-5 as well. This gives you ultimate flexibility. Here's a variety of adaptors that work with the factory 7-flat connector: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Wiring-sf-Wiring_Adapters-pc-7_Blade.aspx

FOR THOSE WHO NEED TRAILER BRAKES, there's a factory connector under the driver's knee panel that provides simple plug-and-play connection to a brake controller if you get the right cable adaptor (also available from etrailer and others). Again, it couldn't be easier. i installed one to tow a camper trailer and all you do is mount the controller under the dash and plug in the adaptor cable at each end. Here's a good shopping tool to choose the right adaptor for various brake controllers: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguidebc.htm

I presume there are more details about these mods here in the forum somewhere, but I mention it here just in case it informs anyone who didn't know to for look for it.

Good luck.
 

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This is great thread. Thank You. I have been wanting to do this since I purchased my truck. I got the wiring harness today from dealer with 10% discount. (Always ask for discount, you never know). Out the door 7 Pin harness for 65 an change.

The problem I have is that the previous owner cut the gray male plug. After spending all day at local junk yards with no luck, I found the cut male connector (that is part of the truck's harness) but the wires are very close to the connector, so i have to solder them back somehow to make the factory setup.

While at the dealer I closely examine a brand new 2014 SV 4X4 with tow package. They have welded an L-shaped metal plate to the tow bar and the 7 pin is installed there.
 

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I have to solder them back somehow to make the factory setup.
I always solder wires such as this. If wires are intact, I don't like to weaken the original wires by cutting; I just cut away some insulation, wrap the new bare wire end around that exposed copper wire, and solder it together, then tape up. Mush more robust than using crimp connections.


While at the dealer I closely examine a brand new 2014 SV 4X4 with tow package. They have welded an L-shaped metal plate to the tow bar and the 7 pin is installed there.
I used an L-shaped metal bracket from Home Depot to mount a 2nd electrical connection for a trailer to Mrs. Cusser's Yukon.


For those who don't tow: there are 7-blade connectors, there are 4-pin connectors, there are two types of round 6-pin (depending if boat or horse trailer), so not that evident to non-towers. Also tow vehicles with separate turn signal and brake lights likely will need an electrical adapter as trailer lights typically "share" these. And larger trailers need electronic brake controller for trailer brakes. Have fun.
 

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I have a 2015 pro-4x that I needed to put a tow package on. I bought the kick panel wiring harness & 7 pin harness (Nissan oem)on eBay for 10 dollars used. I bought a Curt hitch on auto anything for 100, and curt universal bracket for 10.00 on eBay. I modified the bracket to fit the oem 7 pin, and I just ordered a Curt triforce used with Nissan adapter cable for 48.00. I'm pretty happy, since I didn't realize the Nissan oem 7 pin had been built specific for Nissan oem hitches. Here is the result.
 

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I have a 2015 pro-4x that I needed to put a tow package on. I bought the kick panel wiring harness & 7 pin harness (Nissan oem)on eBay for 10 dollars used. I bought a Curt hitch on auto anything for 100, and curt universal bracket for 10.00 on eBay. I modified the bracket to fit the oem 7 pin, and I just ordered a Curt triforce used with Nissan adapter cable for 48.00. I'm pretty happy, since I didn't realize the Nissan oem 7 pin had been built specific for Nissan oem hitches. Here is the result.
That plug won't last long at that location if you do any off roading.
 

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So i looked at a 2012 with the factory kit at a pizza place last night. Where is the difference in plug location? i didnt see any as compared to the setup im using? The 7 pin wiring is relatively in the same location. but to answer the question, i dont "4-wheel" up to my axles, so it should be safe.
 

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It is not the up to the axles part. It is the departure angle part. My buddy thought the same thing. In fact his survived a couple of small wheeling trips. Then we drove through a moderately deep snow drift and it got hit. Did not get completely busted off but enough that he will relocate it to the bumper.
 

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aer0zer0... one of the options with the curt hitch especially, (because it doesn't have a bracket already built in the like OEM hitch does) is to mount the plug in the bumper (like Nissan4Life mentions above). not only does it get the wiring off the ground but it looks great. it does require drilling your bumper however.

the link is below, not sure if you already knew about this option or not.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/hitch-plug-relocated-bumper-30484/
 

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aer0zer0... one of the options with the curt hitch especially, (because it doesn't have a bracket already built in the like OEM hitch does) is to mount the plug in the bumper (like Nissan4Life mentions above). not only does it get the wiring off the ground but it looks great. it does require drilling your bumper however.

the link is below, not sure if you already knew about this option or not.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/hitch-plug-relocated-bumper-30484/
Hmm, that's interesting. No I had not seen this mod. Does that same problem happen with the factory Nissan hitch?
 

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Hmm, that's interesting. No I had not seen this mod. Does that same problem happen with the factory Nissan hitch?
absolutely. I believe that those off roaders who bought a truck with the oem hitch already installed from the dealer, often remove the plug from the oem hitch, mount the plug in the bumper, and then remove the built in bracket (I think you have to hacksaw/grind the bracket off, but I'm not sure about that) from the OEM hitch.
 
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