Nissan Frontier Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,880 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I found this online a few years back and this is something I've had stashed in my tool box for quite sometime now. Every time I work on my truck I reference it. So I thought it would be worth sharing:D I've added socket sizes to all the ones I can remember/ have removed before. Please feel free to post ones that are wrong/ missing in this thread if you know it!

Disclaimer:
These numbers were pulled manually from the 2005 Nissan Xterra Service Manual (revision Feb. 2006). There could be errors in translation, typos, mis-reading of the manual, brain farts, etc. Please double checked these torque specs with Nissan. I take no responsibility if you use these specs and something falls off. Original Thread I Borrowed the info from

I will add to this over time. If there is anything I am missing or someone sees that is wrong, please let me know and 'll add it.


Front Suspension:

Swaybar Mounting Brackets: 96 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
Swaybar Connecting Rod (Both Ends): 62 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FSU-5] 17mm
LCA Bump Stop: 14 ft-lbs [FSU-5]
LCA Cam Bolt: 100 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
LCA Ball Joint Nut: 70 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FSU-5] 19mm
UCA Mount Bolt: 94 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
UCA Ball Joint Nut: 58 ft-lbs (Replace Cotter Pin After Removal) [FSU-5] 22mm
Lower Shock Mount: 155 ft-lbs [FSU-5] 19mm
Upper Shock Mount Nuts: 22 ft-lbs (there are 3 nuts) [FSU-5] 14mm
Shock Upper Spring Seat Nut: 30 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FSU-5] 19mm
Wheel Hub Mounting Bolts: 44 ft-lbs (there are 4 bolts) (Replace After Removal) [FAX-5] 17mm
Center Hub Nut: 101 ft-lbs (Replace Cotter Pin After Removal) [FSU-5] 32mm or 1 1/4"


Rear Suspension:
Bump Stop: 14 ft-lbs [RSU-5]
Upper Shock Mount Nut: 33 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RSU-5] 17mm
Lower Shock Mount: 148 ft-lbs [RSU-5] 19mm
Spring Shackle: 77 ft-lbs (Both upper and lower) [RSU-5] 19mm
Front Leaf Spring Mount Bolt: 84 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RSU-5]
Axle U-Bolt Nuts: 53 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RSU-5]
Dynamic Dampener (weight): 14 ft-lbs

Steering:
Outer Tie Rod End Nut: 63 ft-lbs 22mm replace cotter pin


Front Diff (R180):
Diff Mounting Bolts: 135 ft-lbs [FFD-14]
Crossmember Bolts: 96 ft-lbs [FFD-14]
Pinion Nut: 138-216 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [FFD-16]
Ring Gear Bolts: 43 ft-lbs [FFD-16]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 69 ft-lbs [FFD-16]
Diff Cover Bolts: 30 ft-lbs [FFD-16]


Rear Diff (C200):

Pinion Nut: 107-238 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-15]
Ring Gear Bolts: 58 ft-lbs [RFD-15]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 69 ft-lbs [RFD-15]
Axle Bearing/Hub Nuts: 49 ft-lbs (there are 4 nuts) [RAX-7]
Diff Cover Bolts: 36 ft-lbs [RFD-15]


Rear Diff (M226 w/o Locker):
Pinion Nut: 220-500 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-50]
Ring Gear Bolts: 133 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-50]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 80 ft-lbs [RFD-50]
Axle Bearing/Hub Nuts: 89 ft-lbs (there are 4 nuts) [RFD-50]
Diff Breather: 31 in-lbs [RFD-50]
Diff Cover Bolts: 31 ft-lbs


Rear Diff (M226 w/ Locker):

Pinion Nut: 220-500 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-123]
Ring Gear Bolts: 135 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [RFD-123]
Carrier Bearing Journal: 80 ft-lbs [RFD-123]
Axle Bearing/Hub Nuts: 87 ft-lbs (there are 4 nuts) [RFD-123]
Diff Breather: 31 in-lbs [RFD-123]
Locker Wire Harness: 89 in-lbs [RFD-123]
Diff Cover Bolts: 31 ft-lbs [RFD-123] 14mm


Front Driveshaft:
Flange Nut: 44 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [PR-5]


Rear Driveshaft (Model 2S1330):

Flange Nut: 71 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [PR-10]


Rear Driveshaft (Model 2S1330-BJ100):

Flange Nut: 41 ft-lbs (Replace After Removal) [PR-11]


Front Brakes:
Slide Pin Bolt: 32 ft-lbs [BR-22]
Torque Member Bolt: 136 ft-lbs [BR-22] 21mm
Union Bolt: 24 ft-lbs [BR-22]
Bleed Valve: 69 in-lbs [BR-22]


Rear Brakes:
Slide Pin Bolt: 19 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Torque Member Bolt: 76 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Brake Line: 19 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Bleed Valve: 69 in-lbs [BR-22]


Maintenance:
Engine Oil Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Crush Washer)

Transfer Case Fill Plug: 26 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)
Transfer Case Drain Plug: 26 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Front Differential Fill Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)
Front Differential Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Rear Differential Fill Plug (C200): 36 ft-lbs (Apply Silicon RTV or Equal)
Rear Differential Drain Plug (C200): 36 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Rear Differential Fill Plug (M226) (with or without Locker): 25 ft-lbs (Apply Silicon RTV or Equal)
Rear Differential Drain Plug (M226) (with or without Locker): 20 ft-lbs (Apply Silicon RTV or Equal)

Manual Transmission Fill Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)
Manual Transmission Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket)

Automatic Transmission Drain Plug: 25 ft-lbs (Replace Gasket) (both 2wd and 4wd models)
Automatic Transmission Pan Bolts: 70 in-lb (Replace after removal)

Engine:
Spark Plugs: 168 in-lbs
Intake Manifold: Bolts: First Pass: 5 ft-lb Second Pass: 21 ft-lb
Intake Manifold: Studs: 8 ft-lb (If removed from Engine Block)
Intake Manifold: Bolt Pattern: Engine Front: 5, 3, 2, 7
Intake Manifold: Bolt Pattern: Engine Front: 8, 1, 4, 6

Misc:
Wheel Lug Nuts: 98 ft-lbs 21mm
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
Engine:
Spark Plugs: 168 in-lbs
Intake Manifold: Bolts: First Pass: 5 ft-lb Second Pass: 21 ft-lb
Intake Manifold: Studs: 8 ft-lb (If removed from Engine Block)
Intake Manifold: Bolt Pattern: Engine Front: 5, 3, 2, 7
Intake Manifold: Bolt Pattern: Engine Front: 8, 1, 4, 6
I would recommend updating/clarifying this... There's 2 manifolds, the upper (plastic) & lower (aluminum)
The Upper manifold (Intake Manifold Collector FSM pg EM144) is 5 ft/lbs (or 60 in/lbs) first pass, 8 ft/lbs (or 96 in/lbs)

the lower manifold (Intake Manifold pg EM146) is 65 in/lb (5 1/2 ft/lb) then 22 ft/lb.


the lower manifold is bolting into the heads, so is a little more tolerant of torque stress... the Upper manifold is going into the lower manifold and has VERY little tolerance for torque stress. I GREATLY suggest for anyone to use an in/lb wrench when tightening the Upper (plastic) manifold. an extra 2-4 ft/lbs can strip out the threaded holes with the stock length bolts. They only go in 1/2 to 2/3 depth of the threaded holes (which are open on the bottom side) When I installed my IMS, the first time I snapped one of the included stainless steel bolts... at 11 ft/lbs (wasn't paying close enough attention to my beam-type wrench) It kept feeling like they were loosening up. (SS is non-graded... =< grade 5)

grabbed some grade 8, used antisieze, and picked up a inch/lb wrench. The bolts were longer to be sure to use all of the available threads...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,189 Posts
FSM confusing

Nice post. Moved and stickied.
Thanks Jen

Does this screen shot from the FSM mean the front drive shaft spline nut should be torqued to 137ft lbs? It show's 137 then (14, 101) Can someone explain what the 137 and (14, 101) means? Should I go with the info above and just torque it to 101ft lbs?
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,290 Posts
Thanks Jen

Does this screen shot from the FSM mean the front drive shaft spline nut should be torqued to 137ft lbs? It show's 137 then (14, 101) Can someone explain what the 137 and (14, 101) means? Should I go with the info above and just torque it to 101ft lbs?

The third number is the one in ft lbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
Front Brakes:
Slide Pin Bolt: 32 ft-lbs [BR-22]
Torque Member Bolt: 136 ft-lbs [BR-22] 21mm
Union Bolt: 24 ft-lbs [BR-22]
Bleed Valve: 69 in-lbs [BR-22]


Rear Brakes:
Slide Pin Bolt: 19 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Torque Member Bolt: 76 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Brake Line: 19 ft-lbs [BR-28]
Bleed Valve: 69 in-lbs [BR-22]
Just wanted to update a torque spec that I tried to use yesterday on my front brakes. Front brake slide pin bolt does NOT require 32 ft-lbs. Snapped off a slide pin bolt yesterday when I reinstalled the caliper and without thinking set my torque wrench to the specified torque on this reference sheet. On further exam the bolt is only about an M8, which typically is only going to take about 15 to 18 ft-lbs, may be able to go into the mid 20's if it's a class 10.9. Either way, 32 is too high. 19 ft-lbs (which is what the rear brake slide pin bolt is listed at) is more like it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,880 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Just wanted to update a torque spec that I tried to use yesterday on my front brakes. Front brake slide pin bolt does NOT require 32 ft-lbs. Snapped off a slide pin bolt yesterday when I reinstalled the caliper and without thinking set my torque wrench to the specified torque on this reference sheet. On further exam the bolt is only about an M8, which typically is only going to take about 15 to 18 ft-lbs, may be able to go into the mid 20's if it's a class 10.9. Either way, 32 is too high. 19 ft-lbs (which is what the rear brake slide pin bolt is listed at) is more like it.
Interesting...
Sorry the bolt broke on you, was it degraded in any way? Corrosion and such? Was the torque wrench calibrated recently?
These specs are right from the FSM so this is what Nissan engineers decided was appropriate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
Not degraded at all. My truck is only 4 years old with 20k on it. Arizona weather. Torque wrench has not been calibrated recently, but is only a year or so old.

Could have been just a fluke. But it is odd that the front and rear both use the same bolt (I think) and the torque is different, and one torque is what you would expect for an 8mm bolt, and the other is pretty high. Either way, I still love the torque spec sheet, use it all the time!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I have read the FSM, and can't find torque specs for the 3.3L drive plate (flywheel) or the rear main seal retainer plate. Also, has anyone replaced the screws on the valve covers with bolts with the same length and thread pitch? I ask because I think a bolt would be a better design than the screws, easier to torque correctly in tight spaces IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hey there,

Just wondering if anyone out there who swapped their rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s did in fact torque their lower mount to 148ft-lbs?

I did and was worried that it was too much because as there is no sleeve in the Bilstein's lower bushing and it just compressed the bushing to the point it looked like it was "oozing" out the sides. It even looked like the tabs on the axle were bent in.

Now, after a year, they've cracked along the edges and I'm thinking the bushings might need to be replaced.

Any Thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,880 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hey there,

Just wondering if anyone out there who swapped their rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s did in fact torque their lower mount to 148ft-lbs?

I did and was worried that it was too much because as there is no sleeve in the Bilstein's lower bushing and it just compressed the bushing to the point it looked like it was "oozing" out the sides. It even looked like the tabs on the axle were bent in.

Now, after a year, they've cracked along the edges and I'm thinking the bushings might need to be replaced.

Any Thoughts?
There is supposed to be a sleeve in the lower mount, that is why your bushings got destroyed. If you bought them from anywhere besides PRG, Nisstec, or Rugged Rocks you need to transfer over the factory lower bushing as they don't come with the proper lower bushings from anywhere else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
There is supposed to be a sleeve in the lower mount, that is why your bushings got destroyed. If you bought them from anywhere besides PRG, Nisstec, or Rugged Rocks you need to transfer over the factory lower bushing as they don't come with the proper lower bushings from anywhere else.
Whelp, I guess that settles it then. Was planning on having the truck up in the air soon anyway, might as well add it to the list.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,562 Posts
Anybody know what the torque specs are for the 6 bed mounting bolts? The bolts with the washer and spacer.

It is 16ft lbs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
good guide for neophytes, but with the exception of engine builders you'll rarely see shop mechanics using a torque wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
735 Posts
good guide for neophytes, but with the exception of engine builders you'll rarely see shop mechanics using a torque wrench.
yep, the almighty impact wrench... personally I use torque specs.
these pages are for us. I seriously doubt a tech is learning from the boards, lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Just a fyi for newbies make sure the torque wrench isn't binding on the cross member. When torqueing the transmission drain plug. LOL.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top