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Hey what’s going on guys? Sorry if this wasn’t posted in the right thread but I have a few questions. A junkyard around my area posted on FB they have a bunch of vehicles to part out so I figured I’d ask if the have a Titan hoping I could maybe get a swap going on for a good deal. Question is what all would I need from the Titan and does it matter whether it’s 4WD or 2WD? Is it just the control arms or what? Also around what price would be a fair price for all of the parts? TIA.
 

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Since I tend to be cheap, I looked in to this as well.

Compare cost on new (non OEM parts) and used.... Tie rods and ball joints will have miles on them and will be possibly loose, etc. To take advantage of the swap, you will want to use aftermarket upper control arms.

I found for the price, it just wasn't worth it over buying new Moog parts that tend to have a warranty. The only thing I went with used was front differential and my spare CV axle.
 

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agreed. the only thing for a titan swap i would want from a junk yard would be the front differential.


i do have a brand new set of titan lower control arms. 115$ shipped! still in plastic.
 

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What would I gain from swapping the diff out? Do you guys think it would even be worth it? Also if I were to purchase the lower arms from you, then I would still need the uppers for a Titan too correct? Sorry I’m not exactly a wiz in the mechanics field. I know a lot about a lot of things but not when it comes to vehicles in depth anyways.
 

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no worries. theres a sticky i think floating around that goes into a lot of detail.

the titan m205 3.36 ratio diff is much larger and inherently stronger than the r180.
i mentioned 3.36 ratio because thats the only one that will work but im betting if your a pro4x 4door auto you have the 3.35 ratio that matches the rear.


so if you only bought lowers.
you would also need uppers
inner/ outer tie rods or tie rod extensions. fact/opinion the titan inner outer tie rods are much better than the extension and about the same price.
brake lines
lower control arm adjustment camber bolts
longer half axles OR
titan front differential and stock titan half axles this is the best option for the front diff fact/opinion since its much stronger diff and you can get replacement axles at a parts store.


and the last bit is lift/coilovers up front. depends on your price but you can be as cheap as spacers or expensive as 1500$ 2.5 coilover shocks.
 

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I am convinced that a R180 differential can work well with proper modifications.
I mentioned this many times, we ran the NORRA race almost full time in 4x4.
Yes, boots were torn, had to rebuild cv joints but that would happen with 205 cv's.
If you want to go lower than 4:11 gearing, yes you need a 205.
 

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CJD Racing and a few others show using heim joints for the tie rods, pricey.

Look at All Dogs, Nisstec, Fat Bob's or PRG and they'll show all the parts needed. Just saw someone contemplating ordering as many parts as possible via Rock Auto, new parts, cheap prices.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
 

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I am convinced that a R180 differential can work well with proper modifications.
I mentioned this many times, we ran the NORRA race almost full time in 4x4.
Yes, boots were torn, had to rebuild cv joints but that would happen with 205 cv's.
If you want to go lower than 4:11 gearing, yes you need a 205.
I've been contemplating keep my R180 for this reason. Also because any M205 I've found locally they want near 1k for which is absurd.

The main benefit of the 205 is the fact that you can snag off the part half axles at any auto parts store(plus theyre way cheaper). Being that sometimes I use that right skinny pedal too much, this is appealing.

What have you done to your R180 to make it more bulletproof?
 

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I run a Lolka locker in the front to get rid of the spider gears.
It is not a true Titan swap.
My arms are 10" over stock.
BTF 300c axles.
I am also running 4,11 gearing , not sure if this puts less strain on the differential.
 
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i dont think there is anything wrong with r180 at all.

i think its more cost effective to buy an expensive m205 and then cheap 50$ axles whenever you have issues.
have an issue with an r180 extended axle and you are in for some leg work at the very least.
 

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I've been contemplating keep my R180 for this reason. Also because any M205 I've found locally they want near 1k for which is absurd.

The main benefit of the 205 is the fact that you can snag off the part half axles at any auto parts store(plus theyre way cheaper). Being that sometimes I use that right skinny pedal too much, this is appealing.

What have you done to your R180 to make it more bulletproof?
I paid about $700 for my M205. Keep in mind lots of Junk yards these days will ship free or cheap. I did have to troll www.car-part.com for a few weeks to find what was in my price range and was the condition I wanted. Don't forget to look for Armadas and QX56's but watch the years, they started using the R180 at some point.

Also, Car done Axles are about $75 each. One of mine has popped since new and not they both make noise but that's after 3 years and 30K miles.
 

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i dont think there is anything wrong with r180 at all.

i think its more cost effective to buy an expensive m205 and then cheap 50$ axles whenever you have issues.
have an issue with an r180 extended axle and you are in for some leg work at the very least.
Lets also not forget how cool you will be when you tell people you have a Titan differential in your truck...…
 

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Well , hopefully we will see if the r180 will hold up during the 1000 this year if we decide to race it.
My only concern is now I am on 35's.
I nay need a spare axle assembly before then.
They are $1200 a set .
 

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A lot cooler to say,We completed the "Baja 1000"!!!
Which not many would even attempt.
Of course racing is different than trail riding , just like doing extreme rock crawling.
How many of you need to reinforce control arm
318013
6601DC73-FBDA-4DD3-83A7-15CB5552547D.jpeg mounts?
 

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jealous for sure its a dream to participate in a 1000.

hopefully going to be there over the next couple years.

CJD just released lower mount reinforcement plates, but ive seen some horror stories from them because of the super soft type of metal they use. troubling for sure.
 

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This will be the last attempt.
Can't afford to campaign two vehicles.
The Frontier will make a good prerunner and chase vehicle.
 
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Poor material used for brackets?
No excuse unless trying to cut cost.
One reason to do your own work or someone you trust.
If the bracket material is true, I would never buy anything from them.
Who knows what they used for their other parts.
There are a few of us that have raced using BTF fabrications parts.
Proven!!!
 

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I paid about $700 for my M205. Keep in mind lots of Junk yards these days will ship free or cheap. I did have to troll www.car-part.com for a few weeks to find what was in my price range and was the condition I wanted. Don't forget to look for Armadas and QX56's but watch the years, they started using the R180 at some point.

Also, Car done Axles are about $75 each. One of mine has popped since new and not they both make noise but that's after 3 years and 30K miles.
The bonus of the armadas and qx56 models switching to the r180, is the later models half shafts fit a titan swapped frontier so you can usually get those for cheaper that the titan swap specific ones from an auto parts store. Downside is because they are less common and only certain years, many parts stores (especially rural ones) do not have them stocked.
 
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