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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put on the body side moldings on my 06' frontier king cab. I was bit leary on putting them on myself, as I'm not 100% confident in my abilities to but a solid color up against a solid color and making it straight. Well... The instructions are very helpful in making it a straight line and installation was pretty darn easy.

(Here's 1 of 2 suggestions)
1) One thing it doesn't suggest during the installation is using masking tape to hang the molding on the car before applying the sticker base to the vehicle. This not only helps allign it on the car but, it also allows for you to make the rear side of the moldings more flush with the vehicle and not allow gaps. (this is roughly 3-4 mm higher then the suggestion on the instructions.

2) BEFORE, the step of pealing off the bottom half of the plastic that exposes the sticky stuff. MAKE SURE THE BACKEND FLUSHES WITH THE VEHICLE. If it doesn't it will not allow for the bonding agent to be as strong as possible. (I am making this suggestion because even though it seems obvious... when reading the instructions and following it to a "T" its easy to over see how this part goes on the vehicle.) If you position the piece on the vehicle overseeing this...it's not the end of the world... It's just not going to be on as good and allow for a gap for water to get in. <<That's not going to hurt anything either.

3) Use a grease pencil, instead of tape. Tape can be a real pain. If you only feel comfortable using tape, use the blue painter's tape. It stands out well and has a good weight behind it. I used a grease pencil and I thought it worked very well especially when you feel like you need to recalibrate the allignment to make sure the surfaces match. (Use the alcohol, you used when wiping the surface clean to remove the grease pencil. its super easy)

Just a couple tips for others getting this part. I didn't allign the back part of the surfaces perfectly and I just thought it be a good heads up for everyone else. But... It still looks great!
 

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Sonik you are a lot braver than me. I usually do my work myself, but I let the dealer do this one, I was worried that I might not install them straight. I also like the reassurance that if something went wrong the dealer would be liable.

Will
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! I try not to go to dealerships or auto shops if I have to. I always feel like I'm getting screwed there... Bad past experiences I guess.
 

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sonik said:
Thanks! I try not to go to dealerships or auto shops if I have to. I always feel like I'm getting screwed there... Bad past experiences I guess.
Haha...who hasn't had any bad experiences at dealership...I'd like meet someone...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
x3_1234 said:
sorry for such a noobie question but what are side moldings and how do htey look?
no prob... Here's a pic from yournissanparts.com. It's the painted plastic part that goes over the groove on the sides of the frontier.

 

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sonik said:
x3_1234 said:
sorry for such a noobie question but what are side moldings and how do htey look?
no prob... Here's a pic from yournissanparts.com. It's the painted plastic part that goes over the groove on the sides of the frontier.

[/quote

thanks sonic
 

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When I installed mine, I used my laser level to ensure the front lined up exactly with the rear, they came out great! The grease pencil is a great idea, I kind of partially did the tape thing, but just had a samall piece at the front and rear of the front door, then used the laser lever to ensure the rear door was aligned with the front.
 

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05_NISMO_4X4 said:
When I installed mine, I used my laser level to ensure the front lined up exactly with the rear, they came out great!
But the truck itself isn't level -- like most trucks, the back end is sprung a bit higher (unless you've leveled the front with a kit). Did you tilt the level? I'm looking for a reason to buy a laser level. I'm confused. Level with me. <g>
 

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sonik said:
2) BEFORE, the step of pealing off the bottom half of the plastic that exposes the sticky stuff. MAKE SURE THE BACKEND FLUSHES WITH THE VEHICLE. If it doesn't it will not allow for the bonding agent to be as strong as possible. (I am making this suggestion because even though it seems obvious... when reading the instructions and following it to a "T" its easy to over see how this part goes on the vehicle.) If you position the piece on the vehicle overseeing this...it's not the end of the world... It's just not going to be on as good and allow for a gap for water to get in. <<That's not going to hurt anything either.
Thank you for bringing this up. I installed mine about a year and a half and noticed that it was easy for the back of the molding not to line up perfectly if you only follow what the directions say. I decided to post my experience on another forum and pretty much got flamed for it. Apparently, everyone on that forum were infallible when it comes to mounting molding.

Anyhow, thanks for the tip. I'm sure it will be helpful for someone.
 

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Before removing the adhesive strip cover, I hung the moulding on the door with masking tape so that it hinged upward and I could lift it out of my way to make marks on the door with the pencil. I then lined up the back edge by hand, since the back edge is the same shape as the groove in the door. I then marked the door at the bottom edge of the moulding. Then I measured the distance from the bottom edge of the door up to the mark I made, and used this measurement to mark the front of the door. Then I stretched a long piece of masking tape between the two lines and used it as a guide as I glued the moulding to the door. Repeated the same process for the back door....straight as an arrow.
 

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I did it the easy way, bought the LE that had them on it already from the factory.:laugh:
 

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FitzIngarage said:
But the truck itself isn't level -- like most trucks, the back end is sprung a bit higher (unless you've leveled the front with a kit). Did you tilt the level? I'm looking for a reason to buy a laser level. I'm confused. Level with me. <g>
I used the laser level after aligning the front molding, this assured the back molding was perfectly aligned with the front molding. In other words, I used the laser as a guide, not as a level.
 

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05_NISMO_4X4 said:
I used the laser level after aligning the front molding, this assured the back molding was perfectly aligned with the front molding. In other words, I used the laser as a guide, not as a level.
Ah ha! Now I understand. Neat idea. I plan on adding the BSM to mine some day. I see that Red Brawn will be continued in '07, so I don't have to hurry.
 

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I just got the moldings for my 2012 King Cab and will be installing them when it warms up a bit. Very helpful suggestions in this thread.

One thing I'm curious about is why the front edge of the rear door moldings for the King Cab are formed in the same way as for the Crew Cab when the King Cab rear doors don't open in a manner where this would be required.
 

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I didn't see it mentioned but I'm assuming you have to cut the posts off the back of the front molding piece? There's no way that the posts fit in the channel on the door. It looks like they are from when the pieces were actually molded.

Even if it did fit it would certainly rub up against the door and eventually start wearing away the paint...
 

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Yes, you have to cut off those molding posts. I just used a standard diagonal wire cutter to snip them off about 1/8" from their attachment point. You just have to get them lower than the mounting flanges with the double-sided tape. You don't want to twist them or rock them back and forth as that could damage the face of the molding.
 

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Yes, you have to cut off those molding posts. I just used a standard diagonal wire cutter to snip them off about 1/8" from their attachment point. You just have to get them lower than the mounting flanges with the double-sided tape. You don't want to twist them or rock them back and forth as that could damage the face of the molding.
Thanks!
 
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