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I would take it all apart and then once you get the new belt just line everything up, it doesn't have to be at Tdc #1 when you take it off, only when you put it back together. I wouldnt use the harmonic balancer to find Tdc on the crank, I would use the gear mark instead. Or if you can't find the mark just use a stick in #1 spark plug hole and turn the crank by hand to find the top of the stroke by watching the stick

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I got the kit today and ive already installed the new water pump, im putting the belt on now, ive got everything lined up and the belt is facing the rt direction, ive got 40 teeth across cams and 43 down to the crank. Im getting ready to put the tensioner on now.

Thanks for the help :D
 

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Great write-ups and info. I have one question I have gotten everything off and the cover for the timing belt has the bolts with rubber bushings on them. Does anyone know where to get these bolts with the bushings? My truck has gotten hot and they are now brittle and breaking.
 

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Nissan or Infiniti dealer is the only place that I know. The bolts and the insulators are sold separately.
 

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Figured this is as good a place as any to ask, trying to get my timing belt ASAP which means trying to reduce the cost. I don't want to cheap out by any means, but this aftermarket set seems to be a great price by a reliable brand. Anyone have any thoughts / remarks on this replacement set in particular?

 

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Figured this is as good a place as any to ask, trying to get my timing belt ASAP which means trying to reduce the cost. I don't want to cheap out by any means, but this aftermarket set seems to be a great price by a reliable brand. Anyone have any thoughts / remarks on this replacement set in particular?

Watch out with the water pump. If its mating surface isn't identical to the OEM it can cause leaks. I've seen many reports about when going with a pump other than OEM. Not saying the AC Delco is a no go but do your research and compare
 

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Watch out with the water pump. If its mating surface isn't identical to the OEM it can cause leaks. I've seen many reports about when going with a pump other than OEM. Not saying the AC Delco is a no go but do your research and compare
Good to know, thanks. The Gates brand replacement kit has significantly more positive reviews describinga perfect fit for the water pump... barely $12 more so I’ll likely go that route.
 

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I just replaced my timing belt this past weekend using the Gates kit from Rock Auto. The truck travelled only 68k miles since the last belt change but that was 11 years ago. The old belt still looked to be in good shape, but the bearings in the tensioner were starting to go. The job went fairly smooth. I used the vise-grip method on the harmonic balancer to hold it in place while removing and torquing the bolt at the end of the crank and used an M6 tap to clean the rust out of the threads in the harmonic balancer to get the bolts in place to pull it. While I was in there I also replaced the camshaft and crankshaft seals. Putting the new crankshaft seal in proved to be the most time consuming part of the job. The sealing surface of the crank does not protrude much beyond the housing so getting the inner lip over the edge of the crank was a challenge. I ruined one new seal and had to find another at the parts store. After several attempts I made a cone out of a paper cup and positioned it over the end of the crankshaft and pushed the seal up into place and then pulled the paper cone out.
 

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A little late now, but FYI, the AC Delco kit is just a repackaged Gates kit. The same goes when it comes to serpentine tensioners, belts and idler pulleys.
 

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Sorry if this has been asked/answered...

Just bought this truck, 2002 VG33E w/ 121k miles on the odometer, but there are 32 in tires and based on the speedo and owner records, I’m guessing it’s more like 130-135k miles. I’ve torn the engine down to the timing gears, and there doesn’t seem to be a good way to get the crankshaft sprocket off without drilling/tapping holes and using a puller. So I’m left with a dilemma—do I just leave it and come back at 200-220 k and get my crank/cam shaft seals then (and presumably replace the sprocket), or do y’all think it’s worth it/necessary to go through the hassle of pulling the sprocket and hunting down a new one, all for a crankshaft that by all appearances is not leaking?

If the harmonic dampener was any indication, this sprocket is gonna be a real tough job. I had to drill and tap a third hole (and drill and tap oversized holes for larger bolts) to remove my harmonic dampener /crank pulley.

IF I replace the crank sprocket, then can anyone recommend where the heck to go to get one? Can’t find it on Rock Auto or from a google search. Going to call a local Nissan dealer tomorrow.

Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Only place I now to get a new crank sprocket is from the dealer and it'll probably run you about $60; it's part # 13021-0W000. They can be stubborn to get off. Sometimes I can spray a little "rust buster" around the center of the sprocket and let it sit, tap it will a small hammer (alternating sides) and then grab it and pull while rocking it side to side and they'll come off. If that doesn't work, I'll take a propane torch and heat the sprocket a little (not too much, because I don't want to get it too hot and damage the seal in case I can't get it off) and use Channel-lock pliers to rock/pull it off, being careful not to damage the teeth.
In my experience, the cam seals are more likely to leak than the front crank seal, so while it would a good thing to replace the crank seal, you could take a chance and let it go.
 

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Only place I now to get a new crank sprocket is from the dealer and it'll probably run you about $60; it's part # 13021-0W000. They can be stubborn to get off. Sometimes I can spray a little "rust buster" around the center of the sprocket and let it sit, tap it will a small hammer (alternating sides) and then grab it and pull while rocking it side to side and they'll come off. If that doesn't work, I'll take a propane torch and heat the sprocket a little (not too much, because I don't want to get it too hot and damage the seal in case I can't get it off) and use Channel-lock pliers to rock/pull it off, being careful not to damage the teeth.
In my experience, the cam seals are more likely to leak than the front crank seal, so while it would a good thing to replace the crank seal, you could take a chance and let it go.
Thank you SMJ, very helpful. That’s interesting that the camshaft seals leak more often, I wonder why that is.

I’ll try leaving some Blaster on there for a day. If no luck, might just leave it. Which I really hate to do, given how tedious it was just getting to this point. Not something I want to do again anytime soon.
 

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I'm in the process of sourcing parts to do the timing belt and 100K service (ugh long overdue) on my 1999 Frontier. I'm in Canada and finding parts online (courtesy parts) and most other sources seem to cost a fortune.

I was browsing on RockAuto and found the ASIN timing belt kit for a good price ($160CAD). Does anyone have experience with this kit? There are a few others available on the RockAuto site, but I was suggested the AISIN from a mechanic.

Thinking of getting a few other things done now that I would be saving so much getting this kit from there. Here's a list of what I got so far, anything missing?

If anyone has any suggestions on other things that I should consider please let me know! RockAuto parts only please!

Timing Belt Kit - AISIN TKN001
Distributor Cap - BOSCH 03414
Spark Plugs - NGK 5464
Spak Plug Wires - NGK 8113

Thanks in advance!

 

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Might be worth doing your injectors or at least having them cleaned. When I did my timing job, I had the knock sensor code so I changed that too. While you’re in there, you might want to do that.

I also changed PCV valve, breather hoses, cleaned my IACV, water pump, thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, transmission filter (automatic) and fluid (along with all fluids), upper 02 sensors, fuel pressure regulator...

bought my truck a few months ago with 120k miles. It’s an 02...
 

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Why Not order on eBay.Ca and get this: Genuine Nissan Timing Kit. You Get Everything You Need. It Ships from the US but says Free Shipping
Nissan Part # B00PK-0W00JNW


$165 Canadian and you get more than whats in that Aisin Kit

  • Water Pump with Gasket
  • Timing Belt
  • Thermostat
  • Tensioner
  • Camshaft Seals
  • Crankshaft Seal
You Definitely Need To Change Those Seals and Thermostat While You're In There: Would Be A Shame If A Seal Goes Bad or Your Thermostat Goes Out and You Basically Have To Tear Everything Down Again.
 
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You can get the Nissan B00PK-0W00JNW Kit cheaper at Amazon:


In the past, I've always used the Gates TCKWP249 Kit. The Aisin kit is also good and Aisin makes a lot of OE parts for Nissan, but I'm not sure it's $40 better than the Gates kit, which I've installed about a dozen.

I would not recommend the Bosch distributor cap; when it comes to the cap and rotor, stick with genuine Nissan. I've seen a lot of problems with aftermarket cap and rotors over the years. The NGK wires are excellent, but the Iridium IX plugs are only good for around 60,000 miles. The OE plug that was installed at the factory is a better choice: NGK Laser Platinum 6371. I've started using NGK's "latest and greatest" Ruthenium HX plugs. Ruthenium, like iridium, are also in the platinum family of metals. Ruthenium are supposed to have better ignitability and durability than iridium, but they are a couple of dollars per plug more than the Laser Platinums. I have about 500 miles on mine, so far, and no complaints or issues.

One thing I recommend replacing is you are going to do the seals is the coolant bypass hose, but make sure you get the hose from Nissan because it fits better than the aftermarket options.
 
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I asked a friend who bought his 01 crew cab brand new about his timing belt experience. He said he didnt know to change the belt when he first got his truck, until the belt broke.

It broke at 165k.

He towed it to a local shop that my family also happens to trust and the shop called him later to pick his truck up .

It didnt bend any valves, or anything.

I was happy to hear that as i come from e30 bmws and a broken timing belt pretty much means you habe to spend a bunch of money to fix the car
 

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I liked the 3 pic from the bottom.

Your truck probably stands a good 1ft above stock SE with 16 in tires. I find it a pain to work on as I'm about 5'8. Seems like I am always using a step stool for mine. Can't imagine what yours would be like. Maybe I might be able to get to the radiator cap, but probably couldn't see inside it
 

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One thing I recommend replacing is you are going to do the seals is the coolant bypass hose, but make sure you get the hose from Nissan because it fits better than the aftermarket options.
I wish the timing belt kits included the coolant bypass hose! Changed my timing belt last year but I didn't know about the bypass hose. I just discovered a leak around that area, it looks like I have to remove a few things to reach it, it would've been a lot easier to do with the timing belt.
 
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