[chrisexv6]

I also forgot to mention that when I put tension on the tensioner, the cams move ever-so-slightly. Which then makes the left cam no longer line up with the dot, and the right cam even further off.

 

[Hertz]

I say you're just fine. The dimples on the cover are on a stamped piece, not necessarily high accuracy. I think they are just there to serve as a guide to say "this is approximately where you need the cam sprocket dots to be when you take off and replace the belt." What really matters is that your belt marks are all lined up and you have the correct amount of teeth between each.

 

[chrisexv6]

I say you're just fine. The dimples on the cover are on a stamped piece, not necessarily high accuracy. I think they are just there to serve as a guide to say "this is approximately where you need the cam sprocket dots to be when you take off and replace the belt." What really matters is that your belt marks are all lined up and you have the correct amount of teeth between each.

Thanks.

I had a feeling it was something like this but all the youtube vids, how-to writeups, etc dont really go into depth about what to do if the dimples dont line up. I do have the correct amount of teeth (on the belt, between cam sprocket markings and between left cam sprocket and crank marking) so Ill start reassembling.

The tensioning procedure in the FSM says to turn the engine a few times, Ive done so and didnt hear any expensive noises so I think Im good to go. The marks dont line up again (at least not the amount of times I turned the engine) but Im thinking thats normal since the crank and cam sprockets are different size.

 

[Hertz]

Thanks.



I had a feeling it was something like this but all the youtube vids, how-to writeups, etc dont really go into depth about what to do if the dimples dont line up. I do have the correct amount of teeth (on the belt, between cam sprocket markings and between left cam sprocket and crank marking) so Ill start reassembling.



The tensioning procedure in the FSM says to turn the engine a few times, Ive done so and didnt hear any expensive noises so I think Im good to go. The marks dont line up again (at least not the amount of times I turned the engine) but Im thinking thats normal since the crank and cam sprockets are different size.

Well they should line up again every time #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. It's best to make sure that happens.

Edit to clarify: the belt marks MAY sometime line up again but who knows how many times the engine would need to rotate for that to happen. The marks on the cam shaft sprockets and crank shaft will line up with the reference marks again every time the engine is at #1 tdc compression.

 

[chrisexv6]

Well they should line up again every time #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. It's best to make sure that happens.

Hmm, pretty sure that didnt happen. I turned the crank quite a bit in hopes I would see it, but they never did. I still didnt hear any metallic noises (i.e. piston hitting valves), but now Im disturbed enough to stop work. Actually started reassembling everything but Im questioning the belt alignment now.

I figure there would be a point where they will all line up again, but Im not sure it would be at the next (or second, or third, etc) TDC of cylinder 1. I believe all of the markings on the sprockets will be in the same position, but not necessarily the belt lines. Reason being that the belt "travels" further to the right side (because of going around the tensioner) than the left, so the belt markings will rotate but not as fast as the engine (if that makes any sense?). Eventually they would line up again, Im sure, but I dont think 1 complete rev of the crank = 1 complete rev of the belt.

 

[kevinjohnson3216]

Belt marks will never line up again after the first turn, they are only there to give you a baseline to install

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[BigDad]

I know this is a Honda video, but the timing belt change is so similar, that I posted it. The biggest reason was his us of "paper clips" to hold the belt in place on the cam sprockets, while he did the belt swap. Looked like a great idea to me!

 

[Hertz]

I used zip ties to hold mine while messing with other things.

 

[thendi]

I have read all 25 pages, and I am still confused to how yall set the correct tension without J-38387 tension gauge. That's the only thing that is holding me back, because I don't want to set it to lose or to tight. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BigDad]

I have read all 25 pages, and I am still confused to how yall set the correct tension without J-38387 tension gauge. That's the only thing that is holding me back, because I don't want to set it to lose or to tight. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/s-impossible-cams-wrong-stroke-322993/
Toward the end of that thread they talk about the 90 degree rule of thumb.

 

[smj999smj]

I have read all 25 pages, and I am still confused to how yall set the correct tension without J-38387 tension gauge. That's the only thing that is holding me back, because I don't want to set it to lose or to tight. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've done over a hundred timing belts on VG engines and this is how I tension them without the gauge and it works every time: after you install the timing belt and have the timing marks on the sprockets matched up to the lines on the belt and have the arrow on the belt pointing forward, loosen the tensioner nut and let the spring tension pull the slack out of the belt. Leave the nut loose, and turn the right bank (passenger side) cam sprocket about three or four teeth counter-clockwise, which pulls out the remaining slack on the belt. Tighten the tensioner nut to 35 ft/lbs. Turn the right bank cam sprocket about three to four teeth clockwise, which puts the "slack side" of the belt at the top span, between the two cam sprockets. Take your thumb and forefinger and twist the timing belt at the middle of the span between the two cam sprockets. You should be able to turn it 90 degrees. If you can't, it's too tight and you'll probably end up with a whining noise when you start it. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it's too loose.
BTW, I've never seen the timing "bumps" on the rear timing cover match up exactly with the marks on the sprockets. Rely on the lines on the belt and marks on the sprockets and all will be good!

 

[thendi]

I've done over a hundred timing belts on VG engines and this is how I tension them without the gauge and it works every time: after you install the timing belt and have the timing marks on the sprockets matched up to the lines on the belt and have the arrow on the belt pointing forward, loosen the tensioner nut and let the spring tension pull the slack out of the belt. Leave the nut loose, and turn the right bank (passenger side) cam sprocket about three or four teeth counter-clockwise, which pulls out the remaining slack on the belt. Tighten the tensioner nut to 35 ft/lbs. Turn the right bank cam sprocket about three to four teeth clockwise, which puts the "slack side" of the belt at the top span, between the two cam sprockets. Take your thumb and forefinger and twist the timing belt at the middle of the span between the two cam sprockets. You should be able to turn it 90 degrees. If you can't, it's too tight and you'll probably end up with a whining noise when you start it. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it's too loose.
BTW, I've never seen the timing "bumps" on the rear timing cover match up exactly with the marks on the sprockets. Rely on the lines on the belt and marks on the sprockets and all will be good!

Can I zip tie the belt to the cam sprockets so it doesn't jump a tooth, or just be careful?

 

[smj999smj]

Yes, just make sure you cut them off before you put the timing covers back on! Clothes pins work, too.

 

[thendi]

Has anyone only used the paper gasket to install the water pump or is it better to use RTV?

 

[smj999smj]

I've used both. If I use a paper gasket, then I'll coat it on both sides with copper spray gasket or Permatex gasket adhesive. When I use RTV, I go with Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High Torque RTV. It's more of a personal preference.

 

[Johnny Rotten]

I have a quick question... Im taking everything apart rt now, so i can be ready when my timing belt kit gets here... I have 2 small hoses connected to the bottom of my radiator and i pulled one off and it looks like power steering fluid came out, should i be worried about it or is it ok to take them off? Right now im assuming that the bottom of the radiator doubles as a coolant reservoir for the ps fluid. I have an 04 with the 3.3L V6

 

[Johnny Rotten]

Heres a pic

 

[Hertz]

Not power steering fluid, it’s transmission fluid. The radiator has a transmission fluid cooler built into the bottom. Take the hoses off and cap/ cover both the lines and the hose barbs on the radiator so no dirt gets in or excess fluid gets out. If you loose a little it’s ok.

 

[Johnny Rotten]

Ok sounds good, thank you much!

 

[Johnny Rotten]

So ive gotten down to the harmonic balancer, and ive got the top timing cover off, the belt is tight between the cam sprockets but slack on both sides going down to the crankshaft, when i turn the crankshaft the belt doesnt move so im leaning towards the belt not having any teeth around the crank itself. Before i take the belt off, i thought i would ask... Is it possible to take the belt off and manually line up each sprocket to the indicator marks? It looks like the cam sprockets line up at the 11 and 2 oclock positions and from what ive seen the crank is at the 5 oclock position. Has anybody had to do this before?